Grooming and processing is an essential step in maintaining a rich harvest. Tomatoes are a crop that requires special care, and if the climate and conditions are not satisfactory, then you may encounter such a problem as fungus or bacteria. Tomatoes react negatively to high humidity and drought, as well as to an insufficient amount of nutrients. All this affects the appearance of fungal spores, which leads to damage to the crop and the appearance of pests in the fruits, all this eats up the plant, the occurrence of septoria and late blight. In order to avoid this, the plant is treated with various means.
How tomato is processed with whey: 5 rules
One of the most common tomato diseases is late blight. This disease can be attributed to fungal. In one period, this disease can ruin the entire seedling.
Phytophthora can be dealt with in a variety of ways. In this situation, they use metronidazole, Bordeaux mixture, they also use copper sulfate, copper oxychloride and various other drugs, but the most effective is prevention. As a preventive measure, you can use a tincture of garlic, hay and rotten straw. In addition to all the options listed, many experts use whey or use sour milk. Milk formula is used by many gardeners, as it is extremely popular.
In the fight against phytophthora, it is extremely important to start processing the crop in a timely manner.
Serum processing rules:
- In order for the fight against the disease to be effective, you need to mix the serum with water in equal proportions;
- It is best to process tomatoes from July;
- It will be more effective to mix serum with iodine;
- It is advisable to spray the seedlings with this solution every 2 weeks;
- Spraying the culture with these solutions will help not only save the plant, but also significantly speed up maturation;
Processing tomato seeds before planting seedlings
Before planting, it is very important to pre-treat. To do this, it is imperative to disinfect the seeds, since a large number of diseases live on the surface of the fruit.
To avoid this trouble, you need to disinfect the seeds or, as some experts say, pickle. There are several ways to do this.
The first involves placing the seeds for 20 minutes in a manganese solution. The second is placing the seeds in heated hydrogen peroxide for 10 minutes. After the procedure is completed, it is important to treat the seeds with nutrients, this will increase the yield. In order to carry out this procedure, the seeds must be soaked for a day in one of the nutrient solutions. As a solution, you can use "Epin" or "Virtan-micro", in addition, you can use sodium humate, but for amateurs, potato juice or aloe vera may be suitable.
Three stages of processing tomatoes with copper sulfate
Many gardeners grow tomatoes in one place, since the area does not always allow crop rotation to be followed. But problems with late blight may not occur if you follow systemic use copper sulfate. Everything is in three stages.
The first and significant step begins even in the period before planting seeds in order to get seedlings. To do this, the earth must be moderately moistened with a solution of copper sulfate.
This primary processing will help protect tomatoes from infection with late blight at the stage of seedling emergence.
The next stage involves diving at that moment, before sowing in another container. Pathogens can be directly in the new soil. To do this, the soil, which is in a new box the day before transplantation, must be treated with a solution of vitriol, its concentration should be 1%. A larger percentage can adversely affect the root system.
And the final stage of the fight against this fungus must be carried out before planting seedlings in the ground at the place where the tomato will take its final place. To do this, again, prepared wells are treated with 15 vitriol solution per day. After that, seedlings can be planted there. Additionally, fertilizers can be added. All manipulations will help to cope with the crumbling ovary.
This completes the processing with copper sulphate.
What are the benefits of processing tomatoes with potassium permanganate
Manganese is a drug that helps fight germs. Important heat treatment before use, you should not forget about it. The positive side of manganese is that due to the ongoing processes, all bacteria and pathogens are destroyed. Since manganese is mainly produced in crystalline form, it can only be used in everyday life when dissolved in water.
Here are some tips on how to use manganese:
- A solution of manganese is used as a means to disinfect the soil before planting tomato seeds. To do this, 5 grams of crystals are dissolved in 20 liters of water, then the container with soil is thoroughly poured with liquid;
- Tomato shoots can be fed with a solution of manganese, which is poured directly under the root system;
- Before planting seedlings in the wells, you can pour a liter of manganese solution;
- If signs of fusarium appear, the plant can be disinfected by watering manganese. To do this, you can dilute 3 grams of the substance per 10 liters;
- The same solution is used in the case of phytophthora. In this variant, foliar top dressing is used;
- If powdery mildew has appeared, you can get rid of it by dissolving manganese and potassium nitrate in 10 liters of water and treating it with a foliar method.
In addition to the above uses, manganese can be used for irrigation during spring flowering. It will be useful to spray the plant in July, both at the beginning and at the end of the month.
Non-infectious problems and how to treat tomatoes from the disease
Very often, problems with tomatoes arise due to a lack of minerals or an overabundance of fertilizers. Experts are confident that problems may arise due to poor-quality tillage. For this reason, useful elements cease to be absorbed. In addition, wilting plants may be a sign that the root system was disturbed during transplantation.
Tomato disease can also be based on a lack of calcium, which is an essential element for a fruiting plant.
If the plant lacks calcium, the leaves begin to deform and the root system dies. It is important to note that an excess of calcium can also affect tomato disease. Experts recommend carefully selecting fertilizers and no less carefully cultivating the soil.
Rules for processing tomatoes from diseases (video) Rating
Having a healthy garden with organic fruits and berries is the dream of every self-respecting gardener. Although it, alas, every year becomes more and more difficult. The deteriorating ecological situation, abnormal frosts and droughts, which contribute to the rapid reproduction of pests, the emergence of new and the active spread of already known fungal diseases, are an incomplete list of problems that the garden owner regularly has to deal with. When solving most of them, gardeners have long and successfully used fungicides - substances designed to combat insect pests and diseases caused by pathogenic fungi. One of the oldest and most effective inorganic (chemical) fungicides is copper sulphate (other names are copper (II) sulfate, copper sulphate). Gardeners and gardeners appreciated the benefits of its use more than a hundred years ago, and many owners of summer cottages today, despite the large selection of the latest chemicals, prefer this particular technical copper salt. The reason is simple: copper is a component of enzymes involved in redox processes, carbohydrate and nitrogen metabolism, which increase plant resistance to fungal and bacterial diseases. Its presence increases the content of sugar in root crops, protein and fat in oilseeds, sugar and acid in fruits and berries, as well as starch in potato tubers. Thus, the reasonable use of copper-containing fungicides for preventive spraying and fertilization of plants can increase their immunity and improve crop quality.
Copper sulfate can be used by gardeners and gardeners both in its pure form and as part of other fungicides (Bordeaux and Burgundy liquids, cupronafta, etc.). It is a water-soluble powder (crystals) of a saturated blue color, which gradually loses its color to a transparent gray in air due to weathering of water, but quickly restores it upon contact with water. By itself, copper sulfate is not combustible and fireproof, has antiseptic, astringent and cauterizing properties, but when heated, it forms toxic gases that are dangerous to humans. This fungicide can be successfully used in the treatment of wooden structures - to give them refractory properties, prevent decay and eliminate mold, to disinfect wounds on trees and shrubs, and, of course, to combat diseases and pests that affect them. In the recent past, copper sulfate was also actively used by many owners for disinfecting pools in the country, dressing the soil before planting garlic, onions, radishes, cabbage, pre-sowing seed treatment, etc., but today some experts recommend treating these procedures with caution.
The fact is that copper compounds decompose very slowly and, with the regular use of exclusively copper-containing fungicides, accumulate in the soil, plants and water bodies in such an amount that they can even disturb the biological balance, slowing down natural processes. An excess of copper in the soil is a common cause of the slow development of microorganisms, insufficient plant nutrition with iron and, as a result, chlorosis, loss of crop quality, and the formation of multiple lateral roots in plants that inhibit overall growth. For humans, copper in small doses is not dangerous, but in high doses it is toxic: after the use of copper-containing fungicides on vegetables and fruits, its content within 10 mg (maximum!) Per 1 kg of products is considered acceptable, and in the soil - no more than 2 - 3 g per 10 square meters. The uncontrolled use of copper sulphate (and preparations containing it) can later lead to exceeding this threshold, and inaccurate use can also lead to poisoning a person with its vapors (dust) and even death, since 30-50 ml of this fungicide (if swallowed) are already lethal to humans. To minimize the likelihood of poisoning, when working with copper sulphate, it is strongly recommended to use personal protective equipment (glasses, rubber gloves, a cotton-gauze bandage or a respirator, a bathrobe, etc.), do not take food utensils to prepare solutions, but treat (spraying, pollination) should be carried out in the absence of children and animals, and at an air temperature not higher than 30 ° C. To avoid excessive accumulation of copper compounds in soil, water and plants, do not exceed the doses recommended in the instructions or treat plants during flowering, and do not allow fungicide powder and solutions to enter the surface water drainage system, wells, reservoirs and water supply sources. Accidentally spilled or spilled in large quantities, the drug must be carefully collected with sawdust or sand, taken away from the site and buried at a sufficient distance from water sources, residential buildings and garden plantings. Crops that are most susceptible to fungal infections and need constant treatment with copper-containing fungicides (cereals, tomatoes, potatoes, etc.) should not be planted in one place for several years in a row so that the soil "has time to rest." As for the treatment of perennials - grapes, trees and shrubs - it is recommended to alternate copper-containing preparations for spraying them, for example, with iron-containing ones. For example, in autumn (after leaf fall), use iron sulphate for spraying the crowns of shrubs and trees, as well as for treating tree trunks, and in spring and summer - copper sulphate or its “variations”, which, after such an autumn treatment, may be needed already in smaller quantity. Note: the first fungicide has a lesser effect on the composition of the soil, although it also perfectly suppresses the vital activity of fungi, but unlike copper sulphate, plant immunity does not strengthen, so ideally it is better to alternate these preparations. Moreover, the lack of copper in the soil also negatively affects the development of plants: cereals often suffer from the “white plague” (the tips of the leaves turn white and curl, the plants bush, but do not form productive stems), the growth of shoots and roots is delayed in tomatoes, flowers do not form , fruit crops suffer from chlorosis, dieback or exanthema (in dry hot weather, pear, apple, peaches and citrus fruits, plums are usually affected) and often die, etc.
So, how is it reasonable to use blue vitriol in gardening in order to get only benefit from it? To begin with, it is necessary to evaluate the feasibility of using this fungicide on the site to solve specific problems. For example, copper sulphate as a fertilizer is most needed on low-humus sandy and drained peat or marsh soils, where copper is in a hard-to-reach form. To make up for the deficiency of copper, in such areas, copper sulfate in the amount of 1 gram per square meter of area should be added annually - in autumn or spring in the form of a powder, previously thoroughly mixed with the ground. In soils with a different composition, this fertilizer is recommended to be applied every 4 to 5 years, therefore it is advisable to treat the soil with a disinfecting solution of copper sulfate (5 g per bucket of water) in such areas, respectively, no more often. This technique will protect onions and garlic from fusarium, tomatoes from gray and white rot, cabbage from black leg, and radishes, turnips and turnips from yellowness. But at the same time, it is desirable to correctly use crop rotation so that this procedure can be carried out at one place with an optimal 5-year interval. If necessary, a solution of copper sulphate (0.5 - 1 g of powder per 10 liters of water) can also be used for foliar feeding of already vegetative plants with signs of "copper starvation" (weak growth, the appearance of white chlorosis spots on the leaves, the death of shoot tips). By the way, this procedure is strongly recommended to be carried out in July - during the period of the most active synthesizing activity of the leaf apparatus.
The use of copper sulphate for plant treatment
In cases of using copper sulphate to protect plants from pests and diseases, it should be taken into account that all preparations based on copper have only a preventive protective character, since copper is adsorbed by fungal spores and affects only them, and not the mycelium itself, which has already penetrated inside cells. Therefore, treatment with copper-containing fungicides for disease control is most effective while the plants are not yet sick - from the beginning of spore formation on diseased specimens until they spread to healthy ones. Since the maximum demand for copper in plants is observed at the beginning of the growing season and significantly weakens by the beginning of flowering, and the copper sulfate solution has an acidic reaction that has a burning effect on the leaf apparatus, it is optimal to use this fungicide for preventive spraying in early spring (for unopened buds) or late autumn (after the end of leaf fall). A solution at a concentration of 100 g of copper sulphate per 10 liters of water is advisable to use to combat phyllostictosis, anthracnose, moniliosis, desiccation, scab, coccomycosis and other spotting, curliness, clasterosporiasis and moniliosis on pome fruits (pear, quince, apple) and stone fruits (peach, apricot). , plum, cherry, cherry) crops, as well as on shrubs (grapes, gooseberries, currants, raspberries). The consumption of the finished solution should be no more than 2 liters per young (not older than 6 years), about 10 liters per fruit-bearing tree, and not more than 1.5 liters per bush. Please note: it is strongly recommended to prepare a solution of copper sulfate immediately before spraying, dissolve the powder in a small amount of water, and then bring its volume to the desired concentration, and the spraying procedure itself should be carried out once, early in the morning or late in the evening in dry calm weather, and preferably at least 4 hours before expected precipitation (rain).
A solution of copper sulfate can also be used for other purposes:
- For the treatment of wounds of fruit bushes and trees (solution at a concentration of 100 g per 10 l).
— For spraying roses to combat black leaf spot and powdery mildew. The solution is prepared at a concentration of 50 g per 10 liters, and spraying is carried out in late autumn.
- For disinfection of the roots of rose seedlings, berry and fruit crops after removing growths of root bacterial cancer from them. In a 1% solution (100 g per 10 l), the root system is immersed for a couple of minutes, and then washed well under running water. Strawberry whiskers and shoots of currants and gooseberries can also be treated in a similar way when the first signs of powdery mildew are found on them.
- To prepare for sowing seeds of vegetable crops. To disinfect seeds of pumpkin, squash, tomatoes and zucchini from "hereditary" diseases, it is recommended to soak them for 15 minutes in a disinfectant solution (dissolve 2 g of boric acid, 10 g of potassium permanganate and 1 g of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water), and then rinse the tomato seeds thoroughly clean water. To obtain early shoots, seeds of onions, carrots, celery, cucumbers, beets and tomatoes can be soaked in a solution of copper sulfate (2-3 g per 10 liters of water). The solution should be prepared with warm (40 - 45 ° C) water and the seeds of cucumbers should be kept in it for no more than 12 hours, and for other crops - at least 24. In the fight against late blight of potatoes, preplant spraying of tubers is also very effective (2 g of copper sulphate per 10 l of water).
- For the treatment of actively growing plants in order to protect against pests and fungal diseases. To do this, use either a not highly concentrated solution (no more than 20 g per 10 l), or a combination of copper sulfate with other components that would slightly mitigate its phytotoxicity. For example: with downy mildew of cabbage, leaf mold and brown spotting of tomatoes, dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. laundry soap and copper sulfate powder. And to combat the gray rot of cucumber, you can use a dry mixture of ash (1 tbsp) and blue vitriol (1 tsp), which you need to sprinkle on sore spots.
Please note: the duration of action of a solution of copper sulphate is on average 7-12 days, but in dry weather (in dry soil), the absorption of copper may be delayed, and in prolonged wet weather, the effectiveness of the fungicide may either decrease or its phytotoxicity may manifest itself. In this regard, gardeners, gardeners and winegrowers often prefer mixtures with copper sulphate - Bordeaux and Burgundy liquids and their commercially available counterparts.
Mixtures based on copper sulphate used in horticulture
Bordeaux liquid is a fungicide that includes copper sulfate and lime. It has fungicidal properties similar to copper sulphate, but due to the second component it has a neutral or slightly alkaline acidity and does not show "aggressive phytotoxicity" on plants even during their growing season. For a person, Bordeaux liquid is moderately toxic, which means that you should also be careful when working with it (work in a mask, in calm weather, etc.). With proper preparation, it can be successfully used in the fight against the above fungal diseases of fruit and stone fruit crops (rust, scab, curl, late blight, etc.), pests and diseases of grapes (aphids, anthracnose, rubella, mildew, cercosporosis, etc.), flower, ornamental and horticultural crops. In order to properly prepare Bordeaux liquid, you need to carefully mix in two containers (not metal!) Separately a solution of copper sulphate and separately milk of lime, and then, with constant stirring, pour the blue solution (vitriol) into white (lime) and be sure to filter before pouring into the sprayer. Please note: in early spring and late autumn, you can use a more concentrated solution for spraying - 3% (300 g of vitriol and 400 g of lime per bucket of water), and during the growing season - sparing 1% (100 g of both components per 10 liters of water). The advantages of Bordeaux liquid include the fact that in its composition copper is in a more accessible state and quickly stops the spread of fungi, although it also has an overwhelming effect exclusively on spores. Relative disadvantages, in addition to toxicity, can also be called a decrease in the decorativeness of plants (after spraying during the growing season, a blue coating remains on the leaves), as well as the fact that this mixture cannot be combined (mixed) with any other preparations (insecticides or soap).
Burgundy liquid, in addition to copper sulfate, includes soda ash (washing, linen) in its composition. This fungicide does not require mandatory filtering after preparation, since both of its components dissolve well in water and do not clog the sprayer. Burgundy liquid "in its pure form" may seem less effective, as it sticks worse and sometimes has a burning effect, but on the other hand, it also "copes" well with fungi and is quickly washed off with water, which in turn does not spoil the decorative effect of plants and does not worsen their photosynthesis. Unlike Bordeaux, Burgundy liquid is compatible with other preparations, therefore, soap, silicate glue, milk, etc. can be added to its working solution as an adhesive. The average version of the preparation of this fungicide is as follows: in 5 liters of hot water, dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate in one container, and separately in 5 liters of warm water - 100 g of soda ash (or 130 g of food) and 40 - 50 g of grated laundry soap, and then slowly, gradually stirring, pour the first solution into the second in a thin stream. Burgundy liquid, like Bordeaux, should be used immediately after preparation, and no later than 15 to 20 days before harvest. Please note: the finished solution of Burgundy liquid must also have a neutral reaction, therefore, if an iron nail lowered into it becomes covered with a red bloom after 3 minutes, then you need to add a little more soda solution with constant stirring until the desired acidity is obtained.
Conclusion
As you can see, there are many options for using (and preparing solutions) for copper sulphate in horticulture. But in order to get the maximum benefit from it and at the same time not disturb the biological balance on the site, strictly follow the instructions in the preparation of solutions / mixtures based on copper sulphate and their dosages. And if you are afraid that you may not be able to cope with the preparation of the mixture, use ready-made preparations containing copper sulfate - Hom, Kuproksat, Ftalan, Medex and others. And of course, don't forget the mandatory precautions when working with any of these fungicides.
indasad.ru
Tomato is a heat-loving plant that is resistant to air droughts; it does well on loamy and sandy loamy soils. The root system of tomatoes is well developed, the bulk of the roots is located at a depth of up to 40-50 cm.
In the non-chernozem zone, with its lack of heat, relatively short summers, high humidity and frequent rains, growing tomatoes is complicated and has a number of features:
- Tomatoes, as a rule, are planted with seedlings in greenhouses made of polycarbonate or film.
- Tomatoes from morning to evening must be lit by the sun, otherwise you will not get a harvest.
- It is necessary to provide conditions for protection against phytophthora damage.
Phytophthora spores are airborne, especially in areas where potatoes are grown. Moisture on tomato leaves promotes the germination of phytophthora spores and destroys the protective film (from anti-phytophthora drugs), therefore, protection of tomato foliage from moisture is given the main attention in the prevention of phytophthora.
Preventive measures include: the use of tomato varieties relatively resistant to phytophthora, the use of healthy seedlings, preventive spraying of plants with either a solution of copper sulphate or other fungicidal preparations for the prevention of phytophthora, rain protection: a well-ventilated greenhouse or a canopy of film over plants that does not reach land 40-60 cm for ventilation, sparse planting, providing ventilation in greenhouses, etc.
tomato seedling
Tomato seedlings can be grown indoors using boxes, glasses, cans. For this, seeds of mass planting dates are sown in boxes on March 10-12. You can not use compost as soil for seedlings due to the presence of pathogens in it, which a young plant cannot resist. Boxes can be kept in the room. For hardening seedlings during the day, boxes should be placed on the veranda, glazed loggia or in other cool rooms. To get healthy tomato seedlings, seedlings that have not shed their seed coat are removed. Seedlings dive into cups 6x6 cm from April 5 to April 15. Usually, seedlings are grown up to 50-60 days of age. Seedlings are ready for planting in the ground (in greenhouses) on May 10-20. Seedlings should be hardened, squat, with dark green leaves, thick stem, no more than 20-30 cm high, with well-developed roots. From overgrown or stretched, thin seedlings good harvest You can't get it no matter how hard you try. Better to use more late seedling than overgrown.
Garden preparation
When preparing beds for tomatoes, 1 bucket of rotted manure mixed with 2 tables is added. spoons double superphosphate, potassium sulfate and 2 cups of wood ash per 1 sq. meter. The soil is dug to a depth of 25-30 cm.
Tomatoes on semi-rotted manure
You can fill the soil with superphosphate, potassium salt, dolomite, etc. since autumn. In the spring, sprinkle the bed with wood ash (1-2 cups / sq. Meter), dig it up. After planting the seedlings, and along the rows with seedlings, retreating 15-20 cm, dig grooves 15-20 cm deep, which are half filled with greenish-brown unripe manure. You can also add a little superphosphate there. Fill the grooves with earth. Spray seedlings from a spray bottle with a weak solution of copper sulfate and boric acid. The point is that tomatoes develop before flowering with a moderate amount of nutrients (especially nitrogen) in the soil, so as not to delay the start of flowering, which can happen when transplanting seedlings from a limited volume a pot on a fertilized bed. In our case, the roots of the tomato are stimulated to grow and reach the embedded manure (which is already sufficiently overripe) by the time the fruits are filled, the nutrition is enhanced, and the first brush no longer inhibits the development of the subsequent ones so much. The introduction of manure into the grooves can be done 1-2 weeks after planting the seedlings. Semi-rotted manure contains more nitrogenous substances and enriches the soil microflora during its decomposition.
Planting seedlings in the ground
Tomato seedlings are planted in the ground when the threat of spring frost has passed. For an early tomato, the planting date is May 15-20 (required under a film shelter or in a greenhouse). For mid-late from May 25 to June 5 (frosts are still possible until June 10). For quick rooting of seedlings, it is recommended to spray it with epin or zircon; with a solution of zircon, you can shed the root ball of seedlings.
For tomatoes with a compact bush, a row spacing of 50-60 cm is recommended, the distance between plants in rows is 35-40 cm; for most varieties with a medium-sized bush, the distance between rows and in the rows is increased by 10-15cm. Seedlings should be planted in the holes 2-3 cm deeper than they grew before planting in the ground. Lower leaves touching the ground are removed. After planting, the plants are watered abundantly and the soil around them is covered with humus or dry earth. Seedlings should be sprayed from a spray bottle with a weak solution of copper sulphate or other fungicidal preparations to prevent diseases.
Rain canopy
In non-chernozem conditions, it is necessary to make a canopy over a bed with tomatoes to protect it from rain. You can use arcs of thick wire. A piece of polyethylene film is fixed on the arcs so that it does not reach the ground 40-60 cm - this is necessary to ventilate the beds. It is convenient to fix the film at the corners and, additionally, on each arc, lash the film with a rope. This film-canopy remains for the whole summer. For the period of spring frosts, cover the bed with another film. When the danger of frost has passed, the second film is removed. There is always dry ground under the canopy. Watering is carried out in grooves along the edges of the beds, over buried manure. In rainy weather, enough moisture flowing from the canopy into the grooves.
Further care
Further care consists of loosening the soil, weeding, fertilizing and watering. To enhance the formation of fruits and speed up their ripening, on early varieties of tomato, remove stepchildren - young shoots that form in the axils of the leaves. At the same time, a stump of 2-3 cm is left so that the stepsons do not grow again. It is necessary to remove the lower leaves on the plants, the leaves touching the ground, especially the yellowed and diseased ones. During flowering, it is advisable to repeat spraying with a solution of boric acid 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water and a weak solution of copper sulfate (so as not to burn the foliage). It is recommended to remove large browned or whitened fruits from the lower brushes in time so as not to delay the filling of the upper brushes.
For a greenhouse culture of tomatoes with an extended fruiting period, regular top dressing is necessary to compensate for the nutrients taken out with the harvest.
seedless method
You can try growing tomatoes without seedlings. Sow seeds in holes, to a depth of 2-3 cm. Sow 5-6 seeds, break through in the phase of 2-3 leaves. It has been established that seedless tomato plants form a powerful root system, and therefore absorb nutrients better and are less susceptible to diseases.
Be careful with copper sulfate!
Previously, in many manuals for growing tomatoes, one could find advice on the widespread use of copper sulfate (copper sulfate) for the prevention of diseases. Of course, copper is necessary for plants and people, but in doses when copper sulfate (Bordeaux mixture) has a fungicidal effect, they become dangerous to people and can accumulate in the soil, poisoning it. Therefore, one should use either modern fungicidal preparations for the prevention of tomato diseases, or non-toxic preparations that increase the systemic resistance of plants, for example, “narcissus” (based on chitosan), etc. Preparations that protect tomatoes from phytophthora form protective film on the surface of the leaves, preventing the germination of spores of pathogens. From rain and just over time, this film is destroyed, so regular treatments are necessary. Copper sulfate does not form such a film.
sunnygarden.ru
Is processing a tomato with copper sulphate harmful?
kitsune Tenko
Of course, copper sulfate (copper sulfate or copper sulfate) is harmful to the human body, like all chemistry. It does not apply to nitrates. But just wash the tomatoes thoroughly warm water with soap before meals. After all, this is not a berry with a delicate shell, but all substances do not penetrate so much through the skin of a tomato.
storus
Any chemicals are harmful to humans. Therefore, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the processed fruits before eating. Copper sulfate, also known as copper sulfate, kills the phytophthora fungus, but does not accumulate in the plant itself, so the likelihood of it entering the human body is minimal.
Those vegetables that we buy in stores are processed with a much larger amount of chemistry than summer residents can afford, and it’s scary to think how much it is in the fruits themselves.
tltGerard
Yes, such treatment is harmful, since copper sulfate is a toxic substance. Therefore, the finished crop is recommended to be eaten no earlier than 20 days after treatment with a solution. It is also necessary to remember that before use, the crop must be thoroughly washed in running water.
bolshoyvopros.ru
black rot appears on the tomatoes, they say you need to pour blue vitriol. How …
Stalin
Oleg. .
Vitriol is a terrible, caustic poison. .
Save your hands.. Fuck them, those tomatoes..
Natalia Stanislavovna
Please note that this poison accumulates in the soil. There is no gud.
Elena Deineko
You can just spray the bushes.
metiss
A handful in a bucket and a watering can or sprayer
Tatyana Strizhova
I was advised to pour salt water 0.5 salt per 10 liters of water
Gene Abos
These are old fashioned methods. From poverty. What they had, so they processed. Now there are many preparations, including those for processing tomatoes. Ask in a special store, they will tell you.
You can’t use copper sulfate on a leaf - you will burn the plant. And making a Bordeaux or Burgundy mixture is more expensive for yourself.
The Scarlet Flower
Now a ready-made Bordeaux mixture is being sold. Copper sulfate + lime is already written on the package how to dilute because the packaging is different. Dilute in a bucket of water and sprinkle. We process every year before flowering and 2 times after flowering, sometimes once is enough if the soil is not heavily infested and there is little rain. This mixture will be more effective than one vitriol. And if with one vitriol, then dilute 100 grams in 10 liters of water.
As soon as the spring sun warms up, all gardeners immediately rush to their plots to start vegetable growing. Prepare seeds, beds, disinfect the greenhouse, grow seedlings. And everyone, of course, will plant tomatoes. How could it be without them, because not a single feast can do without a tomato.
But the well-known disease, phytophthora, overshadows the cultivation of tomatoes. It is a fungal disease of all nightshade crops that mostly progresses when the weather is cloudy, cool and damp. We will try to help you avoid such trouble.
The first signs of late blight on tomatoes
The very first signs of phytophthora may be the resulting dark spots on reverse side leaflets. If nothing is done about it, the leaves will begin to turn brown, dry out and fall off. The stems of the plant and the fruits themselves will also begin to become covered with dark spots. And for many novice gardeners, the question immediately arises: when to start processing tomatoes from late blight?
The first treatment of a tomato from phytophthora should be done when the fungus has not yet appeared. This should be done in calm and not wet weather. After you have done the prophylaxis, feed your tomatoes with any preparations that serve to strengthen the immunity of plants. This will give a good result, because the stronger the plant, the more difficult it is for late blight to hit it.
How often to process tomatoes from phytophthora?
How many times to process tomatoes from late blight with chemicals depends entirely on the weather. If the summer season is rainy, then you will have to spray about five times over the entire period.
But it is worth remembering that chemical treatment is only permissible when the tomatoes are still completely immature. If you notice even the slightest signs of ripening tomatoes, in no case do not treat them with chemicals. In this case, ash or soap with copper sulfate will come to your aid.
How to process tomatoes from late blight?
From this fungus, a lot of preparations of chemical origin are sold in stores, but we offer you some “traditional medicine” remedies:
womanadvice.ru
Late blight of tomatoes.
| Blossom rot on tomatoes. Late blight disease manifests itself in the form of brownish-gray spots different shapes on leaves and stems (unlike macrosporiosis, in which the spots spread and have a directional character). WITH bottom side leaves are covered with a white bloom. At the same time, dark brown spots form on the tomato fruits. Affected tomatoes rot in 1-2 weeks. Phytophthora disease usually spreads like wildfire: there was a harvest - and no. That's why, I repeat, you can not rely on chance. For spraying against late blight scientists recommend a number of fungicides, which can be divided into two groups: contact (Bordeaux liquid, cuproxate, copper oxychloride) and systemic action (oxychom, arceride, ridomil). The latter are considered more effective, because they penetrate into the tissue of tomatoes, plants and protect it from the inside. But during the season you can do no more than three sprays with them and the last one - 20 days before harvesting. Preventive spraying against phytophthora, it is better to do 0.7% Bordeaux liquid or 0.1% copper sulphate. Subsequent sprayings can be carried out, depending on the weather forecast, with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, and the last - eight days before harvest. All these time limits are not accidental (we are talking about poisons). Therefore, it is necessary to follow the instructions of scientists unindicatively. And even better - where possible, instead of chemicals, use garlic tinctures for the prevention of late blight, spraying plants with a solution of potassium permanganate with the addition of other trace elements, including iodine. Infusion from phytosporosis prepared like this: 150-200g. chopped garlic is poured with a liter of water, infused for two days, filtered and diluted to ten liters of water. Phytophthora on tomatoes.Needless to say, what anxiety all gardeners have now - THIS IS A DISEASE PHYTOPHTHOROSIS (PHYTOPHTHORA): after two months of the most severe drought - continuous downpours, with hail, rains. Each of us cautiously examines the tomato beds - are there any hated black stripes and spots on the tomatoes, will we have time to save the main vegetables of our menu from the most terrible misfortune - phytophthora, which in a short time “mows down” everything we have grown with such backbreaking labor. For decades, scientists have been struggling with the problem - how to protect tomatoes from this black fire, how to prevent this ruthless disaster - late blight of tomatoes. From time to time you read in the specialized literature that new varieties have been created that are not afraid of phytophthora, and new chemicals protection. But phytophthora comes - and after a few days the garden remains black. And we believed! And again you turn to the old, life-tested experience, remembering the long-forgotten: what if it helps ... What you need to know about phytophthora?The fruiting body of this fungus consists of many branched spores, which with water penetrate into the intercellular space inside the leaves, trunks and fruits and suck out the nutritious juices, leaving us with blackened dead shoots. Being in the period of the so-called off-season in the ground, the spores of the fungus retain their vital activity for a very long time, until prolonged rains pour on the ground, and the temperature does not rise above 25 degrees. The only hope is that with today's rains, nighttime temperatures remain relatively low - from 13 to 18 degrees. Today only in this is our salvation. What to do at the first sign of phytophthora.Life suggests that for the purpose of prevention, nightshade (tomatoes, tomatoes) must be sprayed with copper sulfate and infusion of garlic at the seedling stage. By the beginning of July, at least five such sprays should be carried out. But how to spray if it rains every day in the last two weeks? If there is no rain in other regions, you can spray, along with garlic infusion, a decoction of onions and onion peels, radishes, extracts of birch and poplar leaves (10-15 percent). But all this must be done now, before the appearance of signs of the disease. At the first signs of late blight tomato disease- urgently spray the fruits with a 10% solution of table salt. Or a solution of a tattoo preparation, the instructions for use of which boldly indicate that it saves tomatoes from phytophthora. AND last hope for those who sowed tomatoes early varieties, which can have time to form a crop before the temperature rises during rains. If individual green fruits suddenly turn black, VNIISSOK specialist A. Lebedeva recommends immediately removing all formed fruits, dipping them for a minute and a half in water heated to 60 degrees, then drying and laying for ripening. One more tip: stretch the arcs over the beds and cover the planting with a film, leaving the ends open for ventilation. A small afterword: many gardeners have already noticed that the tops of some plants have already acquired a dark purple color. So far, this is a premature alarm: the plants have turned blue from the low night temperatures. These spots are called anthocyanins and are formed from poor absorption of phosphorus. |
frukta.ru
blue vitriol
▄▀▄▀ †Crypt Biker † ▄▀▄▀
do not water the tomatoes on the leaves, this can provoke late blight, you need to water under the root. excess moisture is harmful to the tomato.
Perfectly copes with late blight infusion based on garlic and
Luke. It is prepared at the rate of 200 grams of raw materials per bucket of water, then
insist for a day, and then apply this solution when
spraying the affected tomatoes, and also treat them with each
tomato (in the event that the plot with tomatoes is relatively
small).
Ordinary milk yogurt also copes well with phytophthora
or kefir. Phytophthora fungus cannot cope with stronger
sour milk fungi and remains the loser in this fight. For
preparation of such a milk infusion 100 g of milk is diluted in a liter of water
and add a few drops of iodine. Copper is recommended not only to fertilize tomatoes, but also to use in
as a garter for bushes copper wire, which for more
effect pierce each stem of the plant.
With all this, it should be remembered that chemical treatment should
carried out only when the tomato is still immature, when the fetus
obvious signs of maturation are observed, chemical treatment is prohibited. For
fight late blight in such cases, use an ash-based tincture, and
various products with the addition of copper (for example, in 10 liters of water
dissolve a bar of soap and a bag of copper sulfate).
saya kulzhanbekova
I don’t think that there is a need to spray tomatoes with copper sulphate .... I bought it myself that year and did not spray it. But my son raised earrings from this vitriol for me ....
Lesnaya
No need to spray with copper sulfate. You will burn the plants. Buy Profit Gold or Ridomil Gold http://www.floralworld.ru/fungicid/profit_gold.html http://www.floralworld.ru/fungicid/ridomil.html. And spray. They are from phytophthora. And for the prevention of late blight, treat the land and plants with Fitosporin http://www.floralworld.ru/fungicid/fitosporin.html. Then you don't even need chemo.
droplet
this is poison, I only process Bordeaux flowers from diseases. After all, I feed my family with these tomatoes and I don’t spray anything, the right agricultural technology and there will be no phytophthora
Olga
I spray at the end of June This spring, I spilled the ground in the greenhouse last year, phytophthora raged last year I spray it with HOM It dissolves well
How to spray tomatoes after rain?
Rain is a boon for the garden, its natural moisture and timely watering. But most of both beginners and experienced gardeners are wondering how to spray tomato bushes after rain. With improper care, the leaves of the tomatoes curl, the roots rot, the fruits become covered with dark spots, the garden bed disappears. In this article, you will get acquainted with the signs, causes of late blight disease, and also learn how to spray tomatoes if the leaves curl, what drugs to use.
Do I need to spray tomatoes after a long rain
During the period of heavy rainfall, phytophthora fungus spores develop that affect tomato bushes, and in addition, high humidity provokes the development of infection. When the disease occurs, gray-brown spots appear on leaves, stems and even fruits. Late blight spreads very quickly, and the affected bushes die within 1-2 weeks. Young seedlings are extremely susceptible to disease, so it is very important to spray the bushes in a timely manner in order to prevent the appearance and reproduction of late blight fungus. The greenhouse, so beloved by gardeners, does not save the plant from infection.
Signs of a dangerous tomato disease - late blight
A fungal disease affects the entire bush, and the first signs of its appearance are dry grayish spots that darken over time. Very soon, a whitish coating forms on the back of the leaves, the stem of the bush darkens, the fruits begin to rot. In the later stages of the disease, the leaves curl and turn black. In advanced cases, rot forms on the bushes. Such fruits are strictly forbidden to eat, use for seeds.
The better to spray tomatoes after rain from late blight and pests
Fight against disease vegetable crop start with the treatment of seeds, inventory, soil, where spores of the infection are theoretically preserved. Pay attention to agricultural technology: choose high-quality planting material, change the planting site annually. To combat late blight, pests, use chemical (nitrate, foundationazole) and folk remedies(ash, brilliant green, soda), try to alternate them. Here are a few recipes that successfully cope with tomato diseases:
- Processing of planting material with the growth stimulator "Ivin". This drug is an analogue of natural phytohormones, which helps to reduce the level of disease in vegetable crops, increase yield, and reduce nitrate content. Scheme for seed treatment: 1 ml (1 ampoule of 1 ml) per 200 ml of working solution per 100 g of seeds.
- To strengthen the root system, use the Regoplant growth regulator. The composite preparation has bioprotective properties, enriches the bushes with vitamins, microelements, increases the resistance of the plant to diseases, pests (Colorado potato beetle, aphids). It is used for spraying vegetable crops during the growing season. For the treatment of crops, use 50 ml per 1 ha.
- During the period of fruit set, spray the tomatoes with Stimpo. This multifunctional broad-spectrum drug has a bioprotective effect. "Stimpo" reveals the potential of the variety, activates the immunity of the plant. For spraying tomato crops, use 20 ml of solution per 1 ha.
- During the growing season for foliar feeding use granular fertilizer "Carbamide" (urea). The drug saturates with nitrogen, normalizes plant growth, increases the resistance of vegetable crops to pests. To process the planting, dilute 20-30g of granules per 10 liters of water at the desired temperature (room temperature).
Serum Spray
To combat late blight experienced gardeners it is advised to use folk tricks, one of them is serum. It contains mineral salts that strengthen the immunity of tomato bushes. For spraying, dilute the serum with water in equal proportions, process the resulting mixture daily from the first days of July for 14 days.
How to process fruits with kefir
According to experienced gardeners, effective method fight against late blight - dairy products. To process tomatoes, take 1 liter of peroxidized kefir (yogurt is suitable), dilute in 20 liters of water. Vegetable bushes are treated with this mixture immediately after planting and weekly before harvesting. Mineral salts, lactic acid contained in kefir will strengthen the immunity of the plant.
Folk remedy - milk with iodine
Experienced gardeners who prefer to do without chemistry in growing vegetables recommend using a simple and affordable way to spray the plant, which destroys microbes and stimulates the ripening of fruits. To prepare a folk remedy, add 1 liter of skim milk, 20 drops of iodine to a bucket of water. Spray tomatoes from pests should be 2 times a month.
Yeast
For the prevention of late blight and its treatment, use the following simple method: in 10 l warm water dilute 100 g of fresh yeast. Tomatoes are treated with this solution after rain or at the first sign of plant disease with late blight. To strengthen the immunity of tomatoes, pest control, prepare a highly nutritious top dressing. To do this, in 10 liters of water, mix 10 g of dry yeast, 0.5 liters of chicken manure extract, 0.5 liters of wood ash, 5 tbsp. l. Sahara. To process a vegetable crop, dilute the nutrient dressing with water in a ratio of 1:10.
Treatment with Bordeaux liquid - a solution of copper sulfate
Tomatoes are demanding in care. Effective way prevention of their diseases is the treatment of vegetable crops with Bordeaux mixture. In horticulture, copper sulfate is used to disinfect bushes, to make up for the lack of copper in the soil. For the prevention of fungal diseases, dilute the tomato in 100 g of the drug in 10 liters of water. It is necessary to treat tomatoes with copper sulfate once in early spring before budding.
"Trichopol"
For the treatment of vegetable crops from late blight, experienced gardeners use antimicrobials, and the most effective of them is Trichopolum. This drug is one of the antiprotozoal drugs, so use it with caution. "Trichopol" inhibits the development of fungal organisms. To treat a tomato, dissolve 1 tablet from a blister in 10 liters of water. Treat the affected planting with the resulting mixture until late blight disappears completely.
The drug "Buton"
For good flowering and fruiting, use a tomato natural stimulants. The drug "Buton" increases the yield up to 40%, improves the taste, nutritional qualities of the fruit, increases the resistance of the plant to weather changes and the ecological purity of the crop. To process tomatoes, mix 10 liters of water and 15 g of the Bud preparation. This mixture is used once at the beginning of flowering.
Boric acid
To combat late blight, gardeners use an antiseptic solution to treat bushes. Boric acid has a disinfecting property. To prepare an antiseptic mixture, dilute 10 g of the drug in 10 liters of hot water. Spray the tomatoes with the cooled mixture during active flowering. Apply an antiseptic solution to the bushes with a fine spray on the stems, leaves.
Garlic with potassium permanganate
To ensure the prevention of late blight, experts recommend the use of fungicides. To prepare the infusion, take 100 g of garlic (all parts of the plant are suitable: onion, arrows, leaves), chop through a meat grinder or blender, pour 1 tbsp. hot water, let it brew for a day. Strain the finished mixture through cheesecloth, dilute with 10 liters of water, add 10 g of potassium permanganate. Treat the bushes with this solution once every 2 weeks.
Ash with water
For the prevention of late blight, use an immunostimulating solution for processing a tomato. Wood ash contains useful chemical trace elements that strengthen the immunity of plants and stimulate their growth. To prepare a mixture for 10 liters of water, add 200 g of the product, let it brew for 2-3 days. ready mix treat the soil, spray the tomatoes.
Video: how many times and how to properly spray tomatoes
The fight against diseases and pests of vegetable crops begins with prevention. In order to protect bushes and crops from late blight, use modern chemical and time-tested folk remedies. Subject to the rules of agricultural technology, you will harvest a bountiful harvest of tomatoes. Timely protection of the site from pests is the key to successful gardening. From the video below, you will learn what time of day it is better to spray tomatoes, how to properly process the plant.
sovets24.ru
I sprayed the tomatoes and peppers with copper sulfate (according to the instructions) the next day they withered, I think they burned it. what to do?
Vasya
remove wilted leaves ... there will be stepchildren for both tomatoes and peppers - they will grow if the stem is not damaged
Tatiana Prasolova
you need to spray with Bordeaux liquid, and this is copper sulfate + lime milk., but still they burned out from the sun, because they used to grow in greenhouse conditions .... you need to shade the first time, if the tomato has roots, they will still grow
Ludmila Kolosova
Sorry. It seems. that really burned. You will have to buy seedlings, this one is unlikely to help.
Natusya Natusya
I never spray seedlings with blue vitriol!
Evgeniya Taratutina
And why spray them. If not obvious signs illness. Stepsons will go to the tomato. just cut off the damaged leaves. And pepper too
Gulilya Daddy's Docha
rely on stepchildren, but it doesn’t hurt to annoy even to secure new seedlings!
Vera Kstenina (Tyuleneva)
Yes, they burned them, let them stand, look at how the roots
Dear friends, 2 days ago I sprayed tomatoes and cucumbers with blue vitriol and forgot to dilute it with lime !!! what to do?
gossamer
Olga
Duck two days have passed Water if alive
Anya
spruce-fire-and I haven’t planted yet .. oh
Evgeny Shapovalenko
Water generously to reduce concentration.
Tane4ka
Flowering cucumbers and tomatoes Will you poison yourself with this or will you carry it to the market? The fact that lime was not laid will not play a special role. But cucumbers with blue vitriol? It's like eating it yourself. They will ripen in 4-5 days. Now just water, water, water. But I would be careful not to eat those vegetables.
How many times do you need to spray tomatoes from phytophthora?
Infusion of garlic with potassium permanganate
dolphanics
From phytophthora, an infusion of garlic and potassium permanganate helps well.
Finely chop the garlic, you can take garlic cloves, arrows, garlic leaves 100 grams and pour 1 glass of water. We insist for a day. We dilute this infusion in 10 liters of water and add 1 gram of potassium permanganate here.
Spray thoroughly, especially the stalk of tomatoes, after 10 - 15 days.
You can also take yeast.
Dilute one hundred grams of yeast in ten liters of water. And as soon as you notice that late blight has appeared, immediately process the tomatoes.
Trichopolum, blue vitriol, iodine help from phytophthora on tomatoes, ash treatment helps.
Here's how to use these tools.
All summer residents are divided into several categories: those who understand what copper sulfate is and use it, and those who think that exterminating phytophthora by this method is the same as attaching plantain to a fracture and hoping that it will be in a couple of hours will drag on, and the latter, who have not yet decided which of the first two categories is right. When sharp temperature changes begin in May-June, beware, late blight of tomatoes is already waiting. It is better to take preventive measures than to remove this hated phytophthora from the garden later.
Phytophthora itself is one of the most common diseases not only of tomatoes, but of all nightshade crops.
This disease keeps all gardeners at bay, as all plants can die because of it. And often people do not know how to deal with it. You can prevent the appearance of late blight, if you follow these recommendations:
- Do not plant nightshade crops nearby.
- Stepson tomatoes from time to time. Since phytophthora may appear due to insufficient ventilation. Therefore, pinching is necessary, especially those bushes that reach their maximum height and receive little air.
- Compliance with the temperature regime. For frequent temperature changes are also the cause of the appearance of the fungus.
- Often it appears from the rain and from the cold. Therefore, if summer portends a cold one, consider a makeshift greenhouse.
- Also carry out under the root, because if you water on the leaves, then late blight is almost guaranteed to appear.
Practice shows that more easy method there is simply no fight against phytophthora than blue vitriol.
Remember that the land that does not suffer from phytophthora does not exist. There is an earth in which this disease is in a “sleeping” state, and an earth in which this disease is in its active phase. 
Somewhere she began to become very active, somewhere she torments tomatoes a little. There are many who are unable to observe crop rotation due to the size of the plot, and although varieties have now been bred that are resistant to late blight, it is better to secure your garden. Therefore, let's think about what to do, and it will be a little lower short instruction on the use of vitriol.
Video "Spraying tomatoes in a greenhouse"
In this video experienced gardeners they will tell and show how to properly deal with the prevention of various growing in the greenhouse.
First stage
It all starts with planting seeds. The earth needs to be moistened with a weak solution of copper sulfate, ideally it should be a 3% solution. This will protect your tomatoes from late blight disease at this stage. So, do not be afraid for the seedlings, they will be 100% healthy. 
Second phase
A pick is a series of actions that are performed when young plants are transplanted into the next container (instead of a common one - already a single container) and into new soil. Now I need to decontaminate again new land. The day before transplanting, spray the ground with a 1% solution of copper sulphate, as if you pour too much of it, the roots may die. 
Third stage
It is carried out just before planting seedlings in the ground. Somewhere in a day we pour a liter of 1% vitriol solution into prepared pits. After that, we plant seedlings there with fertilizers that you need. We finish everything with mulching.
Dosage
Now the roots are protected from late blight. However, it would be best to carry out another preventive treatment of plants when spraying. If the first stages were done in order to protect against the penetration of the "infection" through the roots, then copper sulfate is used in this case in order to protect them from penetrating through the leaves and stems. 
Remember that you need to treat the most sensitive areas of the plant with a solution of 0.1%. If you disobey and decide to make the same solution as you did for the roots, you will burn all the leaves and ovaries.
If the phytophthora still struck the tomatoes, then immediately after the destruction it is necessary to treat the soil at the location of their roots with the same 3-5% solution. Then let the earth rest until spring, or give free rein to the green manure that you plant immediately after the tomatoes.
There are several other ways to use vitriol in the garden. This fertilizer can save other vegetables, and even some trees and bushes. If some diseases appear in the garden, try treating the plants with a very weak solution of copper sulfate. Its use will help cucumbers, zucchini, grapes, plums, apple trees and pears. You can also try using wood ash, but nowadays it is quite difficult to get it. It will be very good if the plants are treated with infusion of mullein or milk. We remind you that you need to observe the concentration of copper sulfate. This is the only way to achieve the maximum effect in the fight against disease and at the same time avoid the accumulation of copper ions in plants.
If your friends think that you can just stick a copper wire into the ground and say that the tomato will be healthy and it will not get sick with late blight, tell them that they are wrong.
It is necessary to add copper to the wells at all stages of processing (do not soak the roots, because the plant will die, namely, put the solution in the wells). You can also pierce the stems with copper wire a week after applying copper under the root. If you are afraid that something will go wrong, experiment. Take 2-3 rows, work like this, and do not pierce 2 rows. In autumn you will see that the ones you have pierced are healthier, stronger and have given you much more yield. It is also worth remembering that if you stop preventive spraying, then very soon phytophthora can get on the plant and that's it - write wasted. Now you need to fight late blight "chemistry". Of course, after that it is better not to eat, but to put them in adjika and other sauces.
If you did not know how to breed blue vitriol, then we will tell you now. We breed 100 grams of vitriol in 5 liters of water, and in another jar - 100 grams of slaked lime. Then they need to be connected. This solution must be used within 6-7 hours, otherwise it will become useless, as flakes will begin to form, which will clog the spray gun. This solution forms a film on the leaves, which will prevent the plants from absorbing the light rays. Remember that this will pass in a few days, so there is nothing to be afraid of.
Video "Prevention of late blight on tomatoes"
In this video you will see how to properly care for tomatoes in order to avoid late blight.
Description and properties
Upon opening the package, we will see crystals of a beautiful azure blue color, which have neither smell nor metallic taste, although they contain 24% copper. Other names: copper sulfate, copper sulfate. That's just the bluish solution of copper sulfate we all once used in chemistry lessons, doing laboratory experiments. This powder is hygroscopic, soluble in water, dilute alcohol, concentrated hydrochloric acid. The dry substance is non-flammable, it is fire and explosion-proof. In nature, it can be found in the form of minerals: chalcanthite, chalcokyanite, butite. In the air, the powder gradually disappears.
Copper sulfate is produced in production in different ways:
- by dissolving copper and copper waste in sulfuric acid (diluted) while blowing air;
- sulfating roasting of copper sulfites;
- when dissolving copper oxide in sulfuric acid;
- electrolytic refining of copper (as a by-product).
Areas of use:
- bright nickel plating;
- for the production of some chemical compounds, in some cases it serves as a raw material;
- at points where non-ferrous scrap is bought, a solution is widely used that makes it possible to detect the presence of zinc, manganese and copper in aluminum alloys;
- construction, repair work - to eliminate mold, rust stains, to neutralize the consequences of various leaks;
- if the wood is impregnated with this solution, then rotting can be prevented and refractory properties can be imparted to the tree;
- copper sulphate is included in some mineral paints;
- food industry - as a preservative, going under the name "E519";
- in medicine, antiseptic, cauterizing, astringent properties have been identified; 0.1% solution is recommended for gastric lavage in case of white phosphorus poisoning;
- animal husbandry (as mineral additives in animal feed);
- gardening and agriculture.
Main applications in horticulture
Copper sulfate has long been used as a fungicide, that is, an agent that has an antifungal effect. It is intended for the treatment of well-known ornamental plants (for example, roses), as well as shrubs, fruit and berry crops (grapes, gooseberries, currants, apple trees) from various pests and diseases (scab, spotting, moniliosis, rot anthracnose and others). They disinfect places of damage in shrubs and trees. On peat soils, where copper is in short supply, this blue powder is used as a microfertilizer.
How to use copper sulfate?
So that copper sulfate does not harm your health, the environment around you, but only brings benefits, before using it, be sure to carefully read all the instructions that come with the package. It contains many nuances that are very important to know when using this chemical compound. For example, in the table you will find information on how much you need to take the drug in certain cases to prepare the solution, as well as the amount of solution that you need to prevent or treat your horticultural crops. A teaspoon holds 6 grams of copper sulfate. MirSovetov will indicate only some cases when the manufacturer recommends using a solution of copper sulfate for processing:
- Quince, pear, apple tree - scab, phyllosticosis, various spotting, drying out, moniliosis. 100 grams of powder is taken per 10 liters of water, after dissolution, 2-3 liters of such a solution is left for spraying on each tree. Moreover, spraying must be carried out very early, when the buds have not yet blossomed.
- Cherry, sweet cherry, apricot, plum, peach - coccomycosis, klyasterosporosis, curliness, moniliosis.
- Currant, gooseberry - septoria, anthracnose, other spotting. It takes about 1.5 liters of solution to spray one bush.
- Roses - black spotting of leaf plates, powdery mildew.
- For disinfection, it is allowed to lower the roots and seedlings of currants, gooseberries, raspberry offspring, strawberry mustaches, strawberries against powdery mildew, anthracnose, rot. After that, very carefully it is necessary to rinse these parts of the plants that were immersed in the solution. By the way, to prepare a solution for such purposes, you need to take 10 grams of copper sulfate per liter of water.
- If roses have a root bacterial cancer(or in fruit crops), then after removing the growths, the root system is immersed in a 1% solution for 3 minutes. Then these parts of the plants are thoroughly washed with water.
- As a fertilizer, it is allowed to use only microdoses of copper sulfate - 1 gram per 1 square meter of soil layer. It is applied to peatlands in late autumn or early spring. Such an introduction is done 1 time in 5 years. One more thing: before applying such a fertilizer, the powder is carefully crushed and mixed with the ground.
As we have already reported, copper sulfate effectively fights many pests and misfortunes of horticultural crops. But this solution is very acidic, so if used incorrectly, it can provoke a plant burn. Therefore, be sure to follow all doses and prescriptions of the instructions. To mitigate the impact of a strong compound, French winemakers many centuries ago suggested adding freshly slaked lime to the solution, which could neutralize the acid. Medicinal properties copper sulphate does not decrease. This mixture was called Bordeaux liquid, since the French who came up with the recipe lived in the province of Bordeaux. To prepare such a mixture, you need to stock up on 100 grams of lime (quicklime) and the same amount of copper sulfate. Just don't mix everything at once! First, we extinguish lime in a small amount of water (100 grams), bring the volume to five liters, so we got “milk of lime”. In another container hot water dissolve copper sulfate with stirring (also 100 grams), again bring the volume of the solution to five liters. Attention! A solution of copper sulfate is poured gradually into the "milk of lime", and not vice versa. Requires constant stirring. The solution is suitable for 5 hours, then the lime particles begin to stick together, which leads to clogging of the sprayer holes.
special instructions
To prepare the solution, use a special container (only not metal). Dissolve the powder just before you need it, that is, do not make it for the future. It must be used up completely within 10 hours. It is impossible to prepare a solution near a water supply system, a well, near buildings for keeping animals, with crowds of people (that is, it is better to retire). Work is preferably carried out early in the morning or late in the evening. The weather should be calm and dry, with no precipitation expected over the coming four hours. If the air temperature is above 30 degrees, then processing is not carried out. Do not forget about personal hygiene and safety rules with chemicals. Wear rubber gloves, clothes specially allocated for such procedures, a scarf on your head and shoes. The manufacturer recommends using goggles and a respirator so that drops of the solution do not get into the eyes or mucous membranes. After completing all the planned work, take off your overalls, wash your hands thoroughly with a bar of soap, wash your face, rinse your mouth with warm water. It is necessary to store this product in a dry place so that it is inaccessible to children and animals, for example, in a barn.
Previously, copper sulphate was used to disinfect swimming pools in the country, the soil was shed with a solution before planting onions, garlic, cabbage, radishes, seeds were treated with it ... But at present, some experts in gardening and agricultural work at seminars in gardening schools do not recommend such manipulations. They emphasize that during the growing season from late blight, spraying is best done with Fitosporin. But to protect plants from fungal diseases (scab, black cancer, moniliosis, septosporosis, cytosporosis, anthracnose, fruit rot, brown leaf spot), spraying can be carried out. But all procedures should be carried out in the spring, when the buds are barely stained, or late in the fall. Wounds on the trunks are also allowed to be disinfected with this old remedy. There are also more modern forms of copper - Kuproksat and Khom.
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