When can you plant remontant raspberries? Varieties of remontant strawberries. How to plant remontant raspberries in spring

Remontability is the ability of plants to bear fruit repeatedly or repeatedly during one growing season. Repairability is observed in crops such as strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries and some citrus fruits. In this article we will introduce you to the rules of growing remontant strawberries: how to plant and care for remontant strawberries in different time years, how to protect it from pests and diseases, how to propagate and how to prune remontant strawberries.

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Remontant strawberry - description

Unlike ordinary strawberries, which lay fruit buds during short daylight hours, remontant varieties of the crop form them during long (LSD) or neutral (NSD) daylight hours. Remontant strawberry in open ground produces two harvests of berries per season - in July and in August-September, and the second harvest is much more abundant than the first - from 60 to 90% of the total number of fruits per season. The problem is that not all bushes are able to withstand such a load, and many of them die after bearing fruit.

Sowing remontant strawberries.

You can purchase remontant strawberry seedlings at a nursery or garden pavilion, or you can buy seeds and grow seedlings from them yourself. However, growing remontant strawberries from seeds requires that the soil moisture for sowing should be in the range of 70-80%. To achieve this, you need to pour 700-800 ml of water into 1 kg of dry substrate (light humus soil or universal soil) and mix this composition thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then containers with a diameter of 10-15 cm are filled with the moistened substrate, leaving 3 cm free to the edge. Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on the surface of the substrate and sprinkled with a thin layer of dry substrate or sand, after which the crops are lightly sprayed with a fine spray, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, bright place. Sowing is carried out in middle lane at the end of February or beginning of March, and in warmer areas 2-3 weeks earlier.

Caring for remontant strawberry seedlings.

Until the seedlings appear, the soil with the crops is kept slightly moist. If the room temperature is maintained at 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear within 10-15 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the containers with the sprouts to the windowsill of a well-lit window, and if this is difficult, provide the seedlings with additional lighting so that they do not stretch out. At this stage, seedlings need regular ventilation.

Picking remontant strawberries.

In the development phase, the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, that is, after about one and a half to two months, they are planted in spacious boxes or in separate pots. Transplant the seedlings to the same depth at which they grew before picking. And one and a half to two weeks before planting the seedlings in open ground, the seedlings are hardened: every day they are taken out for some time to the balcony, terrace or yard, gradually increasing the duration of the session. As soon as the seedlings adapt to external conditions, they can be planted in the garden.

Planting remontant strawberries

When to plant remontant strawberries.

It is better to grow remontant strawberries in the area where such plants previously grew. vegetable crops like radishes, parsley, legumes, carrots, beets, garlic, calendula and mustard. And after crops such as potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries and cabbage, it is not recommended to grow remontant strawberries. Choose a site for strawberries that is sunny and level, where water will not stagnate. Soils preferable are loamy and sandy loam with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Sod-podzolic and peaty soil are not suitable for growing remontant strawberries.

Seedlings are planted around mid-May or a little later, when the threat of return night frosts has passed. If you decide to plant remontant strawberry bushes before winter, then it is better to do this from mid-August to the end of September.

The soil for remontant strawberries must be prepared in advance: for spring planting - in the fall, and for autumn planting in the spring. Dig up the soil on the site with a pitchfork, clearing the future planting site of weeds and adding a bucket of humus, manure or compost and 5 kg each to the soil. wood ash for every m². A month before planting seedlings, add 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate to the soil, or one tablespoon of the drug Kalijfos for each m² of area.

Planting remontant strawberries in spring.

Seedlings of remontant strawberries are planted in two ways - carpet and row. With the carpet method, seedlings are planted according to a 20x20 cm pattern, and with the row method, a distance of 20-25 cm is maintained between seedlings in a row, and 70 cm between rows.

On a cloudy day, make holes in the area, water them and transfer the seedlings into them along with a lump of earth. You can plant two seedlings in one hole. When planting seedlings, make sure that the roots in the hole do not bend, and that the hearts are slightly above the surface of the area. Carefully squeeze the soil around the bushes so that there are no voids left in the roots, and water the strawberries.

Planting remontant strawberries in the fall.

If you plant remontant strawberries in the spring, their fruiting will most likely begin only a year later, and besides, not everywhere in mid-May the soil is already warm enough for heat-loving remontant varieties to immediately begin to grow and develop. Therefore, gardeners are increasingly resorting to autumn planting of remontant strawberries, especially since the technique for its implementation has been worked out to its subtleties.

Planting remontant strawberries in late summer or early autumn gives them time to take root and strengthen for winter without interference such as harmful insects and fungal pathogens. Remontant strawberries are planted in the ground in the fall in the same order as in the spring.

Caring for remontant strawberries in the spring.

Caring for and growing remontant strawberries differs to some extent from cultivating ordinary garden strawberries. The berries of remontant varieties are large in size - some of them can reach a weight of 100 g, but such success is possible only if the conditions of the crop's agricultural technology are met.

After planting strawberries in spring, it is advisable to mulch the bed with straw, peat, pine needles, sawdust, or cover it with black agrofibre - this measure will allow moisture to remain in the soil longer, and it will be possible to water the strawberries less often. In general, caring for remontant strawberries includes watering them, carefully loosening the soil around the bushes, timely removal of weeds from the garden bed, regular fertilizing and protection from diseases and pests.

In early spring, old yellow leaves are removed from last year's remontant strawberries and added to the soil. ammonium nitrate. The next nitrogen fertilizing is applied at the end of May.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit for the first time in the spring, but it makes sense to donate spring harvest in order to collect more berries in the fall, especially since the spring remontant berries are much inferior in taste to the fruits of ordinary garden strawberries. And if, in addition to remontant varieties, you also grow ordinary ones, enjoy their fruits in the spring, and remove the flower stalks of remontant strawberries as soon as they appear, and then the bushes will retain strength for abundant autumn fruiting and will give you much taller berries taste qualities. However, this technique is effective only for annual and biennial bushes. Although, if you take good care of your remontant strawberries and regularly fertilize them, you will be able to pick berries from them twice a season.

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer.

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer? After you harvest the first crop, you need to prepare the remontant strawberries for the second fruiting. To do this, you need to regularly fertilize, water and loosen the soil around the bushes. To enhance re-blooming, the leaves are cut off, being careful not to damage the apical bud. However, in some remontant varieties, fruits are also formed on the rosettes of the mustache, so it is better not to trim the leaves of such strawberries.

Remontant strawberries begin their second fruiting in the summer, in August.

Caring for remontant strawberries in the fall.

Very often, after the second fruiting, it is necessary to plant new remontant bushes, since not every plant can withstand such a serious load. On average, with good care, a remontant strawberry bush lives and bears fruit for three years, but a lot depends not only on your efforts, but also on the climatic conditions of the area and the composition of the soil.

Watering remontant strawberries.

There is a special scheme for moistening beds with strawberries, since the crop has a shallow root system and cannot take moisture from the deep layers of the soil, while strawberry leaves intensively evaporate moisture. Remontant strawberries, like garden ones, are moistened regularly, but they need moisture even more than ordinary varieties, especially in extreme heat and during the fruiting period. Watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening and only with warm water.

After planting, young bushes are watered daily for the first few days, and then switched to watering once every 2-4 days. For last year's bushes, the first spring watering, provided there is little natural precipitation, is carried out at the end of April. In May and June, you need to carry out another 3-4 waterings, and from August to September, remontant strawberries are watered at least twice a month. The soil in the beds should be moistened to a depth of 2-3 cm. The next day after watering or after rain, loosen the soil around the bushes to provide the strawberry roots with air and destroy the crust that forms on the surface.

We remind you that mulching the bed or covering the area with black agrofibre will allow you to spend less time and effort on watering, weeding and loosening the soil in beds with remontant strawberries.

Feeding remontant strawberries.

Fertilizing remontant strawberries is one of the most important conditions for obtaining high yields and extending the life of plants, since they need a constant supply of potassium and nitrogen. NSD varieties are especially dependent on fertilizing. Phosphorus, if it was added in the required quantity before planting, will no longer need to be added to the soil this season; you can mulch the bed with humus, spending 2-3 kg per m², or with manure at the rate of 5-6 kg per the same unit of area .

At the end of May, remontant strawberries are fertilized with a one to two percent urea solution, and approximately in the second half of June, during the extension of flower stalks of the second harvest, the beds can be watered with a solution of chicken manure or slurry, for which a bucket of manure is diluted with 8-10 parts of water, and a bucket of concentrated slurry - 3-4 parts.

In total, from 10 to 15 complex feedings are carried out per season. Fertilize remontant strawberries until late autumn, while their roots are growing, otherwise they will retire weakened and exhausted. For fertilizing, not only organic, but also mineral fertilizers are used, for example, Mortar, Kemiru Lux or Kristallin.

Transplanting remontant strawberries.

Actually, there is no point in replanting remontant strawberry bushes, since they are short-lived and usually last no more than three to four years, even with very good care. And we will tell you how to transplant the resulting daughter rosettes in the section on the propagation of remontant varieties.

But if you still have a need to replant strawberry bushes, you should understand that in the fall this is done no later than three weeks before frost. Transplanting remontant strawberries in the spring will deprive you of the opportunity to get a quick harvest, so replant them as early as possible, before flower stalks appear, and then you will be able to get the first berries after mid-July. If flower stalks have already appeared, you will have to remove them to allow the strawberries to spend energy on successful rooting and adaptation, and not on flowering.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Pruning remontant strawberries in the fall.

After the end of autumn fruiting, you need to carefully remove the leaves from the bushes, trying not to damage the axils of the upper leaves, since it is in them that the plant lays next year’s fruit buds. Leaves are removed in order to get rid of possible infections and pests - only mature healthy shoots will remain for the winter. Pruning of remontant strawberries should be completed with preventive treatment of the area against diseases and pests.

As for the mustache, you can trim it throughout the season, or you can not trim it at all. Some gardeners believe that they should be pruned so that the plantings do not become overgrown, but others argue that some varieties of remontant strawberries bear fruit on daughter rosettes that grow on the mustache, so you cannot trim the mustache, and to prevent the plantings from becoming overgrown, you just need to plant the bushes at a considerable distance from each other. However, on the eve of winter, if you are planning to trim the leaves of remontant strawberries, you should also trim the mustache.

Pruning strawberries in remontant spring.

In the spring, old, yellow, overwintered leaves are trimmed from strawberry bushes, if you did not trim them the previous fall, after which the remontant strawberries are treated against diseases and pests. And it must be said that many gardeners prefer to prune remontant strawberries in the spring.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

We have already described the propagation of remontant strawberries by seed seedlings. How else can you propagate this type of strawberry?

Propagation of remontant strawberries by mustaches.

If you want to expand your remontant strawberry bed with rooted runners, you'll have to sacrifice a second crop. During the first fruiting, mark the strongest and most developed annual bushes, place their first tendrils in grooves made along the side of the bed, and the remaining tendrils will have to be cut off so that they do not weaken the mother bush. After a while, sprouts will begin to appear on the mustache, but you will only need to leave the first rosettes. Trim the second-order tendrils, but do not separate the first rosettes from the mother plant. While they are gaining volume and strength, water and weed the soil around them. A week before transplanting the rosettes to a permanent place, separate them from the mother plant, and then replant them as described at the beginning of the article.

Propagation of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush.

This method of propagating remontant strawberries is used when there is not enough planting material. Divide into developed bushes of two, three and four years of age with strong roots - by this age the bush has already formed many shoots-horns, each of which has a rosette of leaves. Such a bush is dug up in early spring or autumn, carefully divided into horns, and then planted in a garden bed.

Remontant strawberries in winter

With the onset of autumn, watering the strawberries is gradually reduced, they undergo sanitary pruning if there is confidence that remontant strawberries should be pruned in the fall, carry out preventive treatment against diseases and pests, after which they allow the remontant strawberries to survive a couple of frosts and only after that they cover them with non-woven fabric for the winter material, although where winters are short and mild, sawdust, fallen leaves, hay or straw can be used as shelter. Old bushes that are unlikely to bear fruit next season need to be dug up before the first snow.

Pests and diseases of remontant strawberries

Diseases of remontant strawberries.

Remontant strawberries suffer from the same diseases as ordinary garden ones: gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and fusarium wilt.

Pests of remontant strawberries.

The pests most often affecting remontant strawberries are aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds. Diseases and pests of remontant strawberries, as well as methods for getting rid of them, are described in detail in the article already posted on our website.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

As already mentioned, varieties of remontant strawberries come in two types - NSD (neutral daylight hours) and DSD (long daylight hours). The former bear fruit continuously, while the latter produce two or three harvests per season. In addition, remontant varieties are divided into those that form mustaches and those that do not form them, as well as small-fruited and large-fruited. We offer you a description of varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in warm regions, in the middle zone and Siberia.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region.

The best varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region:

• – Aromas– a highly productive variety, resistant to powdery mildew and strawberry mite with large, dense, shiny berries of high taste;
• – Vima Rina- a Dutch day-neutral variety that almost does not form runners, begins bearing fruit in the second half of June and stops forming fruits with the first frost. The berries of this variety are dark red in color, large - weighing up to 75 g, not very dense in consistency, with high taste;
• – hybrid Tristan- a compact, early-flowering variety that hardly forms a mustache and bears fruit throughout the summer with sweet berries of dark red color and medium size. The flowers of this variety are large, juicy pink;
• – Garland– one of the best remontant varieties, which has no equal in terms of productivity. In addition, it is highly decorative, since on the bush you can simultaneously see flowers, ovaries, and red sweet fruits weighing about 40 g. Strawberries of this variety are grown both in beds and in vertical cultivation;
• – Diamond– an American highly productive variety with the best taste characteristics to date. Diamond fruits are dense, large - up to 50 g in weight, shiny, dark red in color. Since the pulp of the berries is light, it is not used for processing. Bushes of this variety are capable of forming mustaches, which greatly facilitates its propagation.

In addition to those described, remontant strawberries for the Moscow region have proven themselves well in the varieties Cascade, Cardinal, Queen Elizabeth 2, Ostara, Sweet Evi, Evis Delight, Evi 2, Elsanta, Selva, Figaro, Florin, Floriant, Everest, hybrids Merlan, Pican, Roman and others .

Varieties of remontant strawberries for Siberia.

In the harsh Siberian climate, it is not easy to grow heat-loving plants, and not every strawberry variety can fully develop and bear fruit in such conditions. However, there are varieties that can be grown here: they produce the first harvest together with the usual garden strawberries, and in order to wait for the second harvest, you will have to use film to cover the beds. The best varieties for Siberia are:

• – Queen Elizabeth 2– a winter-hardy variety with early fruiting, the berries of which are bright red, excellent taste, with dense pulp, sometimes reaching a weight of 100-110 g;
• – Mount Everest– an unpretentious variety in terms of soil composition, resistant to diseases and pests with powerful, densely leafy bushes, tall peduncles and bright red small conical berries and good taste. This variety forms mustache only in the first year of growth;
• – Inexhaustible– large-fruited productive variety, bred by crossing the Inexhaustible and Upper Silesia varieties and forming medium-height, slightly spreading bushes with large dark green foliage, on which large, blunt-pointed shiny berries of excellent taste ripen. The pulp of the berries of this variety is light pink. The variety produces few whiskers and is also susceptible to powdery mildew;
• – Russian size– a large-fruited hybrid variety, resistant to frost and disease, with juicy berries of excellent taste;
• – Ada – high-yielding variety German selection, capable of forming a large number of mustaches. The berries are bright red, medium in size, shiny, elongated-conical, with average weight 5-6 g. The pulp is white with a red core, loose, with a pleasant sour-sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is its instability to strawberry mite and white leaf spot;
• – Diva- also a hybrid variety with powerful bushes, tall peduncles and bright red sweet berries.

In order to determine which variety of remontant strawberries is better than others, you need to be aware of what you expect from it. Some gardeners are more interested in the size of the berries, others - the taste, and still others - the ability to form mustaches, because it is desirable to be able to propagate the variety you like. We offer you a description of the different varieties, and you decide for yourself which one you need. So, the best remontant strawberries:

• – Brighton- a beardless NSD variety bred by American breeders. In protected ground conditions, this strawberry bears fruit for up to 10 months a year, and in open ground - from spring to late autumn. The fruits of this variety, red, shiny, sweet and sour in taste, reach a weight of 50 g. During cold weather they become larger and elongated. The variety is distinguished by its cold resistance, as well as resistance to diseases and pests;
• – Crimean remontant- one of the best varieties DSD of Ukrainian selection is high-yielding, continuously bearing fruit from the end of May to October. The berries of this variety are smooth, juicy, large, dark red in color, with the aroma of wild strawberries. The advantages of the variety are also high decorativeness, winter hardiness, resistance to strawberry mites and diseases. The harvest is formed both on bushes and on rosettes;
• – Autumn fun- one of the first DSD varieties of Soviet selection, bearing fruit twice a season. The juicy fruits of this variety weigh 20 g, have dense pulp and an excellent dessert taste. The variety produces mustaches and is resistant to nematodes, strawberry mites and fungal diseases;
• – Novel- a hybrid variety NSD, which differs from others in its high decorativeness due to pink flowers on long peduncles, effectively standing out against the background of lush green leaves. Strawberries bear fruit in protected soil with proper care for up to 10 months a year. The fruits are smooth, weighing up to 25 g, excellent taste and pleasant aroma;
• – San Rival– a variety of French selection with medium yield. The first berries of the harvest are irregularly shaped, ribbed, comb-shaped. Subsequently, the fruits develop of medium size, round, without a neck, shiny and pubescent. The taste of the berries is sweet and sour, the pulp is juicy and tender. The advantage of the variety is also the ability to form a large number of whiskers, which greatly facilitates the cultivation of strawberries;
• – Selva- a variety of American selection, bred by crossing the Brighton, Pajero and Tufts varieties. The bushes are vigorous, with large leaves, but compact. The berries are large, light red, elastic, shiny, cone-shaped, with dense juicy pulp, but have a rustic taste and inexpressive aroma. The variety is resistant to diseases of roots and leaves, but is not frost-resistant;
• – Herzberg Triumph- a winter-hardy variety that forms many mustaches, bred by German breeders, with dark red, shiny truncated-conical small berries weighing up to 6.5 g with dense, but tender and juicy pulp with a sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is instability to angular and white spots;
• – Yellow miracle- a beardless variety for lovers of curiosities. This is a disease- and pest-resistant yellow remontant strawberry with medium-sized fruits weighing up to 3 g, elongated-conical in shape, growing on compact bushes up to 25 cm high. The variety is not particularly fragrant.

Recently, breeders have developed new varieties and hybrids of remontant strawberries that may be of interest to gardeners. For example:

• – Albion– a Californian variety resistant to weather stress, anthracnose, late blight, rot and wilt with dark red, large shiny conical fruits, a unique strong aroma and intense sweet taste. The fruits ripen well to the very tip. Young leaves have a strong shine;
• – Gigantella Maxi– a Dutch variety with very large berries, weighing up to 100 g;
• – Crown– also a Dutch variety with aromatic red fruits of excellent taste that tolerate transportation well;
• – Kimberly– a variety with sweet red berries that taste like caramel;
• – Galya Chiv– new highly productive Italian large-fruited variety– the average weight of bright red fruits, characterized by high sugar content, is 45 g;
• – Lyubava (or Lyubasha)- unpretentious, high-yielding and the most winter-hardy of all remontant varieties with small dark red oval-rhombic berries weighing 20-30 g, with an intense taste and aroma. This strawberry produces berries both on bushes and on rosettes, so it is used for vertical growing;
• – Portola- a high-yielding variety bred in 2009 in California. Its large, shiny, regularly conical-shaped fruits are similar to Albion berries, but slightly lighter and have a more harmonious taste, practically devoid of acid. Fruit weight is about 30 g. The variety can be grown both in protected and open ground. The disadvantages of the variety are instability to fungal and viral diseases;
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Those who are in one way or another connected with the garden know that every year there are more and more varieties of berry crops. One of the most popular crops is raspberries, and in particular remontant ones. To receive good harvest of this berry you need to know when and how to perform planting remontant raspberries in spring? In this article we will try to answer this question.

First of all, we need to say what is the difference between remontant raspberries and regular ones. And they consist in the fact that throughout the summer, remontant raspberries grow new stems, on which they can be harvested in the fall. Since the berries ripen in late summer or autumn, this has a positive effect on the lesser influence of pests, since during this period of time their activity subsides. In the event that you wish to receive early harvest raspberries, shoots should not be cut. Next summer they will already have berries. But it is also worth considering that the harvest on old shoots will be smaller than on young shoots. Recommendations can be noted here experienced gardeners, which boil down to pruning shoots of remontant raspberries in the fall. By the way, you can learn more about it from the given article.

How to plant remontant raspberries in spring

Of course, many, especially novice gardeners, may be asking the question: when and how to plant the shrub in question? Planting remontant raspberries in the spring is done before the growing season begins. Actually, this can be not only spring, but also autumn. This is what many gardeners prefer. In addition, the seedlings themselves must have a well-developed root system and an above-ground part 25 cm long. If the roots are damaged, the survival rate of the plant is reduced. Before planting remontant raspberries, you should prepare the soil. To do this, select a well-lit area in which to dig up the soil. The depth of the bayonet shovel will be sufficient. As for the planting scheme for remontant raspberries, it is basically the same as for regular raspberries. The distance between rows should be 1.5 m, and between seedlings 0.7 m. For planting, a shallow hole is dug and a seedling is placed, after which it is covered with earth. Next, don’t forget to water the plant generously. Planting can be carried out not only in holes, but also in trenches, which you can learn more about in the following articles.

Caring for remontant raspberries in spring

It would not be superfluous to mention the care remontant raspberries. It comes down to removing damaged and diseased branches, fighting weeds, which you, by the way, can use for the benefit of your own garden, which you can learn about in the article about compost in general. Also, do not forget about timely watering. In principle, nothing new or supernatural was said and the main thing is to pay due attention to everything listed. Since the roots of raspberry bushes are not so deep, during dry seasons you need to take care of sufficient watering. After watering, the soil will need to be loosened by 5-7 cm and covered with humus or peat. Caring for remontant raspberries also includes using mineral fertilizers. The fact is that raspberries are in greater need of nitrogen, the reserves of which are insufficient in the soil. Therefore, nitrogen-containing fertilizing is carried out several times a year, and more specifically after the snow melts and at the beginning of summer. This is where we will actually finish the article about planting remontant raspberries in the spring.