Raspberry very delicious berry which has many nutritional properties. Thanks to these qualities, it is one of the most popular crops that gardeners choose to plant on their plots. One of the most important moments in the care of bushes is pruning. Let's try to figure out how to properly cut raspberries in the fall.
The fruit is good for making sweet, but common for natural canned food. The fruit is not as firm as the Legacy, but has a better taste and tends to be larger, with an autumn harvest expected within two to four weeks. The fruits are very large and even harmonious and harmonious, with good taste and small seeds, they are great for natural canning. The fruit is very good for natural canning. The fruits are small, although at the beginning of the harvest they are acceptable in size, with small devils, with an intense dark red-black color, ideal for juice, also good for sweet.
What is raspberry pruning for?
People who are just starting to garden have a lot of questions: do I need to cut raspberries in the fall, how and when to do it? Shrubs have an interesting nuance: after the shoots bear fruit, they begin to die. This happens already the next summer after planting.
Raspberry cultivation, world perspective. Q: International workshop, raspberry and aradium production in Chile. University of Concepción, Chile. Raspberry behavior in southeastern Buenos Aires. Production and prospects for growing raspberries in Chile. Varieties of raspberries in southern Chile.
The production of raspberries in Asturias, such as blueberries and other small fruits, has great potential for generating agricultural income, either as additional activities to diversify existing farms or livestock, or as a primary activity for new additions to the agricultural sector.
A logical question arises: is it necessary to cut raspberries in the fall. When it comes to raspberry bushes, it becomes clear that it will not be possible to do without pruning. This is necessary to improve the quantitative and qualitative indicators of the crop. To cope with such a procedure, it is important to take into account all the nuances of its implementation and know exactly when it is better to cut raspberries in autumn or spring.
It is characterized by high productivity and rapid amortization of investments due to early entry into production, which in the case of recultivated varieties occurs in the same year as in the case of planting. There are two types of raspberry varieties: regenerating and non-regulating varieties.
When to prune raspberries in summer
In traditional outdoor cultivation in Asturias, non-replenishing varieties produce an annual harvest between mid-June and late July. In contrast, transplanting cultivars can produce two crops per year, the first coinciding with the harvesting season for non-replenishment crops, and the second from mid-August to late September.
It is necessary to prune the shoots as soon as the first cold snap begins. In some situations, it is acceptable to start at the beginning of the summer heat. During this period, the shoots already completely cease to bear fruit, the process of their death begins.
It is necessary to remove such shoots under the very spine. It is best that the cut is right next to the ground - this is the key to success. Gardeners say that you should not leave stumps.
Both periods of production coincide with the supply of raspberries from other areas traditionally produced in Spain, the European Union and Eastern countries, so they are not the most suitable for obtaining the best economic results.
Distribution of raspberry production
However, if the harvest from the beginning of summer to spring is advanced, and at the end of summer, autumn-winter is postponed, this will allow fruit to be offered on the market at a time when supply is lower and therefore better prices. Raspberries are grown in most European countries. The main producing countries are: Serbia, Montenegro, Poland and Russia, followed by other eastern countries. The production periods are from July to August and most of its crops are destined for the frozen industry.
Raspberry bushes have a massive root system. Timely and correct pruning of raspberries will help limit and control the spread of the root system over the entire area of the raspberry.
Raspberries have another interesting feature - each shoot has its own life cycle which is equal to two years. This suggests that as soon as you plant a raspberry, the shoot begins its rapid growth.
The Spanish raspberry production is mainly located in Andalusia, in the province of Huelva, which represents the most important production site in Europe for the new market from November to May. Other important areas are Extremadura, which produces from June to October, and the community of Castile-Leon, especially the provinces of Segovia and León, which are starting to emerge as new production areas whose production times are very similar to those of Extremadura. There are also some productions in the mountains of Malaga and Granada.
Although it is increasingly difficult to find market niches where the supply of fruit is declining, in the case of raspberries, at least for the moment, there is still some interesting gap that is likely to be exploited from Asturias. An analysis of production times both at the national and European level shows two well-differentiated market gaps, May-June and September-November, when the supply of raspberries is significantly reduced.
In the first year after planting, the shoot grows very strongly. The second year is marked by fruiting. Pruning raspberries after harvesting takes place only in those shoots that have brought the entire crop and have already lost their main function. If you do not cut off the shoots that have reached the age of two years, then the bush will become very thick.
Figure - Main raspberry production seasons in Europe. For the production of raspberries in Asturias outside of their natural time, it is necessary that the crop be made of plastic. It is sufficient to use a simple "mini-chapel" type structure, which has the advantage of having a lower economic cost compared to conventional greenhouses.
Many greenhouse structures of all types that exist on our territory can also be used, in some cases, with unprofitable crops and, in other cases, are practically abandoned. On the other hand, it is important that the varieties have a reforestation appearance in order to use spring and autumn production on the same plant and in perennial cultivation.
By appearance it will look like a currant. In addition, dry shoots will prevent young growth from growing and being filled with strength. In addition, dried shoots are a favorable environment for the reproduction of pathogenic microflora.
All these factors ultimately adversely affect the quality of the crop: the berries become smaller and smaller over time. In the end, the appearance of fruits may stop altogether. In this case, you will have to completely update the raspberries and get rid of the old bushes.
Photo. Refreshing raspberry cultivation in the summer, just before flowering. An interesting aspect of growing raspberries for Asturias conditions is that they perfectly complement one of the cranberries, overlapping the harvest of both without fully matching the collection in the shortest possible time.
This system, with two crops included in one farm, allows more efficient use of labor, requiring less wages at a certain time due to stunning cleaning over a longer period of time. When the land is prepared and the greenhouse structure is built, the plantation will continue; around the last two weeks of April. Before planting or immediately after, the supporting structure of the plants should be placed. From the beginning of September of the same year, the first harvest begins on the plantation, which can continue until the end of November or the beginning of December, depending on the variety, temperature, location of the farm, type of greenhouse, etc. after the completion of the first harvest, the plants are pruned. To do this, the part of the branch that was fertile is cut off, about the top third, while respecting the part of the branch that was not bearing fruit. This part of the branch, left uncut, will be the one that will produce the second crop next spring, from May to mid-June, approximately. Once this second harvest is complete, all branches at that point will be cut off on the ground to promote the growth of new shoots that will produce fruit in the fall/winter of that year. Raspberry plant in late summer with fresh fruits and fruits ready to start ripening.
You need to cut raspberries in the summer according to special rules. As a result of such an event, there should be no more than eleven shoots on each square meter of raspberries.
This amount is considered the most acceptable for further growth: the bushes will be well lit, which will favorably affect the yield next year. After the raspberries are pruned in the spring, all garbage must be collected and burned.
This was mainly due to the lack of a marketing structure that would allow the farmer to easily move out of production into markets where this type of fruit is consumed, mainly European Union countries. The fate of these industries is almost entirely related to the export of quality fruits to the fresh market. Growing raspberries and blackberries.
black raspberry care
They produce fruit in the upper end of the reeds in the first year at the end of summer and in the lower parts of the same canes at the beginning of the second year of summer. From December to February, the cables are cut at ground level to produce a uniform crop at the end of the season. The reeds that bear fruit and flower appear during the second year, while the reeds that bear fruit the following year will begin to grow. The following year, the remaining canes should be trimmed and cut, leaving 3 to 4 canes per square foot. To encourage branching, in early summer, first-year canes should be cut by cutting about four inches from the tip until the plants are 28 inches tall.
- The quality of fruits harvested in early summer is low.
- Fruits that are born from the yolks of the second year.
- Canes left unchanged in the winter until the end of the summer harvest.
- Cut back the reeds the second year after harvest.
- Trimming is necessary to minimize interference.
- In the autumn you should keep the parties with the help of rock climbing.
- Black raspberries need more care and less winter.
- In winter, it is recommended to cover them with soil or mulch.
Another purpose of pruning shoots is reproduction. The docked shoot, after carrying out preliminary operations, will be ready for transplantation. It is with the help of pruning that you can control the time at which the berries will ripen. To do this, use the two-time pruning method, which we will talk about a little later.
Pruning raspberries to increase yield
The plant is deeper than the depth of a nursery. Planting is deeply improved and developed. In all cases, in holes that have been prepared for planting, distribute the root of the well and, if possible, avoid overlapping each other. It can also be planted in isolation. If several rows are planted, leave 2 meters free between one row and another. If the area of crops is more than 5 or 3 between rows. The plant is superficial, at the same depth as the nursery.
Avoid deeper planting as growth rate is limited. Plant superficially at the same nursery depth. All of these plants should be equally considerate and dedicated, like a family garden, that is. It applies fertilizer at the time of planting and is also paid every year at the end of winter or beginning of spring.
In order to understand how to cut raspberries in the spring, it is worth remembering the main rule - everything must happen on time. Pruning raspberries is a set of actions that are aimed at achieving certain goals:
- quality improvement;
- harvest quantity;
- Creation optimal conditions for the life of the plant;
- shrub breeding.
Raspberry pruning scheme:
The fertilizer is not thrown onto the plant, but swirls around it without touching it, at a rate of 3 strokes per plant each year. This is done with a very sharp hoe, taking care not to damage the base of the plants. In these crops, sawdust, wood chips, straw, or pine nuts are very useful. Don't use herbicides.
In raspberries, the stick or the part of the stick that gave fruit once, it dies, so it is necessary to cut, in this case the stick a short cortita and part of the shoot to where it gave fruit. Non-absorbent raspberries: These varieties only produced fruit in a stick that came from a nursery that was suppressed by cutting flush. New shoots, which have already been turned into canes at the end of autumn, do not bear fruit in the first year, but will do the second. In this case, only the last third appears.
- Cutting out shoots that have begun to die.
- Stem cutting.
- Pruning weak and diseased branches.
- Reducing the length of the shoots.
- Removal of excess root system. There should not be a lot of roots, you should not let them grow.
- Bending branches closer to the ground - this procedure is considered mandatory.
Each of the stages must be performed at a certain point in time. Most of them are done in the fall, after the harvest is fully harvested. The rest is produced in the spring, when it is necessary to prepare the shrubs for the summer season.
Black Raspberry: The wand that appears from the nursery is removed with new pipes. Blackberry: Same as black raspberry. Cassis or black currant, Corinth or red currant and gooseberry. Usually a vermicomposite or some kind of compost animal is used.
Raspberries: 5 liters per plant. Black raspberries and blackberries: 20 liters per plant. Cassis, currant and currant: 10 liters per plant. If you are using a different type of fertilizer, read the brochure or consult your nursery. Fertilizer is always distributed in a ring around the plant, not on top of it.
Can raspberries be cut in autumn? It must, otherwise it will lose its ability to bear fruit.
How to increase productivity
Increasing the yield of your raspberries is directly related to the quality of pruning shoots. There are a number useful tips which are developed experienced gardeners. These tips help you prune your raspberries in ways that will maximize the quality of your crop in the future.
Here are the most effective rules undercuts:
- Pruning black raspberries should be done at different heights. To do this, it is important to divide all the bushes in the raspberry into three groups. In the first group, the stems are cut to fifteen centimeters, in the second - half of their height, and in the third, only fifteen centimeters are left from the entire shoot. After such pruning, the fruits will ripen gradually. This technique is called "one-time".
- The double pruning method we mentioned above is carried out in the summer. Double pruning raspberries are suitable for plants that are about one meter tall. First, all shoots are shortened by about five centimeters. This helps beneficial substances to more quickly penetrate into the lateral kidneys.
As a result, by the autumn about six shoots half a meter long will be formed. During wintering, they are bent to the ground and tied with a ribbon to the trunk. With the onset of spring, long side shoots are cut to 10 centimeters. This will improve the quality of the yield.
In addition, you should keep in mind the information that you need to adhere to the exact time limits when trimming. If you cut the shoots later than necessary, then the entire branch can stiffen in winter, which leads to death. - indispensable action.
Note that such tips apply to raspberry bushes of any variety. Before pruning, one point should be taken into account - whether the shrub variety is characterized as bearing fruit once during the growing season. Indeed, in addition to simple types of raspberries, there are remontant shrubs.
Pruning simple raspberry varieties
Raspberry pruning in the summer is carried out according to the following rules:
- Cut off shoots that have already borne fruit.
- Then all weak, painful, damaged and dried branches are cut off. This type of activity is called sanitization.
- Next, proceed to the thinning of annual shoots.
- As soon as spring comes, it is necessary to shorten the upper parts of the branches.
Raspberry pruning in the spring is carried out according to an identical pattern, however, frail shoots that have weakened after winter are pruned. We recommend that you decide on your own when to cut raspberries, so that it is as efficient and convenient as possible.
As you can see, this procedure is simple and not time-consuming. It is worth remembering that all the branches that you cut must be collected from the beds and burned in places remote from your plantings. This is necessary in order to protect other plants from all kinds of diseases.
Even if the cut branch looks healthy, this does not mean that it is not filled with pathogenic bacteria from the inside. Most microorganisms can overwinter in pruned shoots and become more active with the advent of heat. This necessitates the burning of branches.
Pruning remontant raspberries
Distinguished by its increased productivity. Such shrubs are able to bear fruit in the first year after planting. These varieties of berries appeared on the garden markets of our country not so long ago, but every year the assortment grows along with the demand for them. Let's try to figure out how to trim such a raspberry.
Remontant shrubs are able to produce crops very quickly, since their shoots have upper buds. The branches die off partially after they overwinter and the yield decreases, but still remains plentiful.
As in the case of simple raspberries, this variety also needs to be cut. Do not cut a lot of shoots, cut only those that really need it.
In the first two years after you plant such shrubs, care will not be different:
- the soil must be loosened;
- regular watering - it is important to prevent drying out;
- top dressing.
But after the second year, you should be more careful. has many nuances, so you should figure out how to cut raspberries for the winter so that it improves the quality of the crop, and not vice versa.
There is a risk that the bush will cease to bear fruit altogether if the wrong action is taken.
Therefore, it becomes necessary to carefully review the root system and observe the shoots in order to make the right decision when choosing "unnecessary" branches. Do not forget to burn all cuts, this will protect other plants from possible diseases.
Remontant shrubs are subject to pruning in the autumn season, when all the fruits are harvested. After the correct implementation of such events, annual shoots will grow up and become stronger and more resistant to diseases.
This is due to the fact that with such a strong pruning, the shrub will be securely covered with a layer of snow - the success of the next season's yield depends on how your raspberries overwintered. And this gives a guarantee that the shoots will recover quickly enough after wintering.
In addition, a variety of pests and pathogenic bacteria will not be able to hide in the bush during the cold weather and will die, and this is another plus in favor of cutting branches.
To make the pruning that you do in the fall even more effective, in the spring you need to clear the entire raspberry tree from snow and cover it with a dark film. Such activities will help the plant enter the vegetative process a couple of weeks earlier than it usually does.
As you may have already noted, it does not differ much from the identical procedure with simple plants. Pruning should be done according to the same rules and standards.
In fact, pruning raspberries in the fall for beginners may seem like a difficult process: you need to carefully and strictly follow all the rules of care and the time frame in which you need to carry out various activities.
Pruning raspberries according to Sobolev
The essence of this technique lies in the fact that it is necessary to observe clear pruning deadlines - this will provide the ability to control planting density.
First, annual branches are cut, after such events their growth accelerates. This is done in early June.
Then comes the stage called spring pruning raspberries. Shrubs should already be covered with foliage. The shoots that are on the sides are cut to fifteen centimeters.
This helps raspberries to accelerate the development of buds, and at the time of fruiting on a shrub, you can find many branches with ovaries.
These pruning methods are considered conservative, however, are used by some experienced gardeners. If you want to understand how to prune raspberries in the fall correctly, then there are many other easier ways for beginners.
When to prune raspberries: in spring or autumn? And how to do it right?
And you need to start with an understanding of the need to cut raspberries according to a strict rule, that is, decisively and thoroughly, and not be limited to removing only dry fruit-bearing shoots.
Gardeners usually either simply leave too many shoots per linear meter of their raspberry row, or “cunning”, leaving an excess reserve of shoots, as it were, just in case. Experience shows that no excess of shoots is needed there, nothing radical can happen to them: well, leave one reserve shoot per linear meter, it will be enough for you.
It's just that when a raspberry bush balances within 8-6 shoots per linear (or square - it's who grows it how it grows) meter, then the loss of the shoot does not affect its fruiting: other shoots increase fruiting due to "liberated fertilizer ", that's all.
So what are the optimal frames for raspberry pruning?
In plants, this is common, this is the hidden basis for rationing the number of plants, branches or ovaries. You just need to keep within the optimal framework in each case.
Repair raspberry
Let's start with the difficult: with remontant raspberries, which are becoming more common among our gardeners (ideally, we can consider the simultaneous presence of ordinary and remontant raspberries in the garden: the first produces a crop in July, the second - somewhere in September).
According to the plan of the creators of the remontant raspberry, its plantation should go before winter, completely clean, all shoots, and they bear fruit intensively, should be completely cut off at the root. Then, in the autumn, her plantation should be generously and richly fertilized, since this alone gives confidence that you will grow tall shoots strewn with berries next season. If you just cut and do not fertilize, then there is nothing to wait for ...
However, in our northern regions and regions middle lane fruit growers prudently wait until the very frosts of the fall of remontant raspberries, so that as many nutrients as possible flow from the leaves and stems to the rhizomes. As a result, many do not have time to cut it at the root. It's okay, you can cut raspberries in the spring, as early as possible, immediately upon your first arrival at the site. Everything to a single escape, under the root.
Anything cut is burned.
In the spring, fertilizers are applied if this is not done in the fall (after all, it is better to fertilize fruit crops with organic matter in October).
Organics should be dug along the rows, on both sides, about 30-50 cm away from the plants.
To choose from: manure, humus, chlorine-free compost (fecal-free) or some kind of bird droppings, and then sprinkle ash on top, which will later be loosened with a chopper in the process of cutting the weed.
I would have spilled everything on top of the watering can with a solution of humates with trace elements. Repair raspberry is able to arrange a berry festival by the end of summer, and holidays, as you know, "are amenable to preparation."
On a running meter, it should grow in its final form by 6-8 shoots at a distance of 70 cm between the bushes (this is if you have tall varieties with shoots higher than your height, and for varieties with low shoots, somewhere chest-deep, leave 10 shoots per running meter).
It is generally more convenient to grow remontant raspberries in one separate row - it is easier to care for them according to all the rules!
From this row, you will then create a new row in both directions from coppice shoots that are far enough away from the row. In the meantime, the row is young, it is only 3-4 years old, you keep it in the form of a strip about 60-100 cm wide.
Thus, now considering a plan for the upcoming rationing of shoots, you try to mentally arrange the strongest shoots as evenly as possible in the strip so that they are all illuminated by the sun. Later, you will evenly tie them to horizontal poles, attached with wire to posts stuck into the ground at a height of 70-100 cm, and now your task is to cut off all the extra shoots as soon as possible so that precious nutrition and nitrogen are not wasted in vain.
Chopped with a chopper (combined with weed control) and cut with a pruner, shoots are either left in place as food for earthworms, or used to make herbal fertilizer, since they have a lot of nitrogen.
In addition, now in the spring and early summer, it is important to protect the remaining shoots from “unplanned branching”, from being attacked by gall midge or raspberry stem fly. For this, protective infusions are used, coating of shoots with clay mash (like autumn protection of trunks fruit trees) etc.
Until the period of spring damage by the raspberry fly has passed (characteristic wilting of the tops of young shoots), strong shoots grow with a margin of several pieces per linear meter. When all the young shoots have reached a mass of about 50 cm, the fly no longer threatens them, and you can cut off the entire stock and finally normalize the row. At this time, the plantation reaches its highest nutrient intake, and "parasites" are unacceptable.
regular raspberry
Ordinary raspberries are cut in a completely different way.
Old fruiting stems should have been cut by you last year shortly after harvest, or you cut them now along with all the rest of the excess bush waste: small shoots, as well as excess large ones.
On a running meter of a row, 8-10 best shoots should be left, with no signs of gall midge damage (rounded growths at the base of the stems or unusually strong branching of shoots that you did not touch with a pruner: these are immediately cut off at the root and burned).
In these left best shoots, the tops 20-40 cm long are immediately removed, since weak buds are located here. This is the easiest spring pruning of raspberries, although there are other ways in the arsenal of craftsmen.
The author of the article, Pavel Trannua, has been studying the soil for more than forty years and knows everything about the proper cultivation of vegetable and fruit crops. He is not only a scientist, but also a practicing gardener.
Series "Secrets of the Garden and the Garden with Pavel Trannua"
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