Growing gooseberries on a trellis. The nuances of this method of growing

Traditionally, vertical shaping is used when growing a variety of climbing plants (say, lemongrass, actinidia, clematis, etc.), and raspberries and blackberries are grown in this way from horticultural crops familiar in our harsh latitudes. As for the gooseberry, it has always and everywhere been grown as an ordinary bush and nothing else, since it is precisely this method of formation, as it were, assigned to this plant and nature itself.

However, recently, notes and articles have appeared more and more often about the experience of growing gooseberries (as well as red currants) on trellises. Sometimes, it happens, even more exotic shaping options are mentioned - stlanets, cordon and others, but they can only be of interest to incredible enthusiasts.

The classic and trellis shaping options have their pros and cons, according to which some gardeners are inclined in favor of the classics, while others are in favor of the newfangled trellis. However, due to a number of circumstances, twenty years ago I was forced to come up with my own way of forming gooseberry bushes, in fact, simply taking the best of the two above-mentioned technologies. Two reasons prompted me to such an innovation: on the one hand, at that time I could only allocate a small area for gooseberries, but at the same time I wanted to achieve a very high yield, since the berries of this crop are consumed in large quantities in our family.

On the other hand, in those days, again, due to a number of circumstances, I had practically no assistants in the garden, which means that I simply could not stop at the more labor-intensive trellis technology. The result of the experiments was my version of the formation - a kind of "hybrid of trellis and classics."

When growing on a trellis, it is understood that the number of branches is limited, and the bush cannot have branches that are not vertical. As a result, the bush becomes quite flat. In principle, this is a plus, since such an arrangement of branches allows a narrow strip of soil to be taken under the gooseberry, which may be of interest to a number of gardeners who have garden plots of modest size. However, trellis technology has two significant disadvantages. First, you have to remove good horizontal branches, which for some reason cannot be directed vertically. And this is unreasonable (good branches need to be protected).

Secondly, due to the “flatness” of the bush, the yield from it turns out to be lower than theoretically it could be. Therefore, if the area allows, it is more efficient to distribute the maximum possible number of branches (in terms of illumination and ventilation) over the entire available light space - that is, not only vertically, but also horizontally (more precisely, approximately at an angle of 45 °, which is usually obtained with classical shaping, when the bushes are fenced). This will be the shaping option, which appears under the name "Hybrid of trellis and classics", in which the bushes occupy the maximum possible space - both vertically and horizontally.

Let us dwell on the features of such a formation. First two years(that is, at the initial stage of development), the bushes are cut in the usual way - in other words, they form a base of strong branches. This means that all weak, dry, diseased shoots and those lying on the ground (they only thicken the bush and reduce the future harvest) are cut out. In addition, the frozen annual growths are cut off to the surviving buds (with a call to the healthy part). Such pruning can be carried out both in late autumn and in spring (the exception is pruning of frozen annual growths, which is always done in spring).

For the third year around a bush (or several bushes planted with a ribbon), a temporary square fence is installed, and when several bushes are planted, a rectangular fence 30-35 cm high. That is, approximately the same as that installed during classical shaping. At the same time, the branches are evenly distributed inside it, if necessary, some of the branches are tied with twine (the branches should be tied with twine, and not with cotton ropes, the service life of which is very short).

For the fourth year inside this fence, wooden trellises 2 m high are installed. When planting bushes with a ribbon, the trellis should look like the letter “P”, and for bushes planted singly, you can make a trellis in the form of a parallelepiped - a kind of additional fence located inside the main one. After that, a part of the shoots suitable for the slope is tied to the trellis, trying to cover with them the largest possible part of the light space.

For the fifth year when the bush already has many long, strong branches, a number of which lean too low, the temporary fence is replaced with a permanent one. It is made taller (approximately 50-60 cm high) and much larger in area of the temporary fence. Then all the branches are evenly redistributed along the fence, at the same time checking if any of them need to be directed vertically, tied to the trellises. As a result of such a redistribution, the main goal should be achieved - to form the maximum allowable (in terms of illumination and ventilation) number of strong branches.

It should be noted that the heights of all wooden structures are indicated more than approximately, since they depend on the tallness of specific gooseberry varieties and their growing conditions (in particular, the degree of soil fertility). For example, I have a gooseberry planted on APION (APION - long-acting fertilizers that ensure a continuous supply of nutrients to the roots of plants, which allows you to use every day of the growing season with maximum efficiency). Therefore, he swings above two meters.

In a nutshell, let's focus on the pros and cons of the considered option for the formation of gooseberries. The advantages include:

a significant (about 2 times) increase in yield per unit area, which makes it possible to reduce the total area allocated for this crop; of course, the increase in yield will be only if all the required agrotechnical measures are carried out (spraying against diseases and pests, timely provision of food and water, etc.);
improvement in the quality of berries, which are larger and sweeter as a result of better illumination of the shoots;
the formation of a significant number of strong shoots, which already initially turn out to be more resistant to diseases and more productive.

It should also be noted that the effective appearance bushes - at the time of flowering and fruiting, they look at least fabulous, and they are admired by all passing neighbors.

Unfortunately, this technology also has its drawbacks. Firstly, the considered shaping option cannot be used for non-frost-resistant gooseberry varieties, since there are no guarantees that high bushes will be covered with snow before the onset of frost.

Secondly, in comparison with the classical approach, the use of this technique requires a certain additional time from the gardener to redistribute and tie up the branches.

It is also impossible not to mention some of the difficulties that may arise during the pruning process, since there are a lot of branches, and you need to carefully wield a pruner among them so as not to be scratched by a large number of thorns.

The latter, however, is no longer so relevant today, since both high-quality secateurs and special gloves that are able to protect hands from thorns can be easily found on sale.

The first pruning of the gooseberry is carried out immediately after planting the seedling: all branches are shortened so that a maximum of 4-5 buds remain on each. It's okay, next season gooseberries will give us big number new shoots - he does it better than all the other berry growers. And here it is important not to miss the moment, but to begin to properly form a freshly baked bush.

From today's edition Country councils” we will learn when and how to prune gooseberries, what are the ways to form a bush and what to do if an existing gooseberry bush is already thickened to impossibility.

The ideal time for “cutting” the fruit berry bushes- early spring, when the buds have not yet swollen and sap flow has not begun.

But! Gooseberries in this regard are very inconvenient, because they “come to life” earlier than others. Also, the snow does not have time to completely disappear, and the buds are already waking up on the gooseberries. Not every summer resident has the opportunity to get to his site in the snow. In mid-April, when we are just starting our trips to the dacha, gooseberry bushes are already blooming leaves. That is, pruning is carried out late, it will no longer benefit the plant.

There is only one option left - cut gooseberries in the fall, after leaf fall. And do not forget about the main rule - cut the branch above the inner bud (located on the inside of the branch) to stimulate the growth of new shoots.

Ways to form a gooseberry bush

Which branches and how to cut them correctly depends on the way the gooseberry bush is formed. We are used to the fact that the gooseberry always looks like an ordinary bush, but if desired and with a certain diligence, you can grow it on a trellis and accordingly form a plant (trellis method), or you can even turn a bush into a small sprawling tree (standard method).

However, according to experienced gardeners, the classic formation of a gooseberry bush allows you to get the most harvest. On the other hand, standard gooseberries take up less space and look prettier. And from the trellis it is very convenient to harvest. So the choice, as always, is yours!

Standard gooseberry

So, the standard gooseberry is a bush that looks like a small tree. How to achieve this? By and large, there is nothing complicated in shaping the standard method.

First, the strongest shoot is selected from the bush, growing vertically. He will become the future "trunk". All other shoots should be cut to the ground.

Further determined with the height of the trunk. The most convenient and popular height of the trunk is one meter. Accordingly, all side branches of the selected shoot are also cut off exactly to the intended height. In order to avoid cutting side shoots in the future, it is best to put a light-tight tube 1.1 meters long on the trunk and dig an extra ten centimeters into the ground. Then the plant must be tied to a peg so that it does not break.

In subsequent years, they act according to the classical pruning scheme: leave 4-5 strong branches each. current year, and last year's shortened by half. It is also necessary to cut out branches growing down, broken off and old (more than 7 years) branches. All shoots that appear at the base of the tree are removed immediately and completely so that nutrients are not taken away from the main trunk.

The standard form of gooseberries has both advantages and disadvantages. The fattest plus is that with such a formation space is saved, and for small areas this is important. In addition, the berries on the “tree” are illuminated more evenly, ripen together and it is more convenient to pick them.

However, there are also disadvantages. Firstly, it is better to choose frost-resistant varieties for the standard form: a fairly tall tree is less likely to survive a harsh winter than an ordinary squat bush. In the northern regions, plants will need additional shelter. Secondly, we do not forget that one shoot serves us as a trunk, and it invariably grows old. That is, the life of the standard gooseberry is at best 10-12 years with constant care.

Gooseberries on a trellis

Another way to form gooseberries is trellis. As a rule, a vigorous gooseberry with a large shoot-forming ability is grown on trellises.

From the name itself it is clear that in this case it will be necessary to work not only on pruning, but also on the construction of the trellis. Gooseberry seedlings are planted according to the scheme one and a half meters between rows and 50-70 centimeters between bushes. In each row, supports are installed at a certain distance (pipe cuts, stakes, thick branches). A wire or similar material is stretched between the supports in three rows: at a height of 50, 80 and 100 centimeters from the ground. Gooseberry branches are further tied to the wire at a distance of 15-25 centimeters from each other (no more than 3-5 of the strongest branches of the bush), all extra branches, as well as basal shoots, are removed as they appear.

Otherwise, the pruning of the trellis gooseberry is very similar to the classic one: the ends of last year's shoots are shortened by a third or half, 3-5 shoots of the current year are left, and they do not allow thickening. Over time, rejuvenating pruning is carried out, that is, several strong basal shoots are left in advance, and the old branches are completely cut out.

What are the advantages of the trellis method of growing gooseberries? First of all, it is much more convenient to pick berries from the trellis, which are always clean. Again, more uniform coverage of the branches of the bush ensures a friendly return of the crop. There are, in principle, no drawbacks to the tapestry, except perhaps for the high labor intensity at the very beginning of the journey.

The classic way to form gooseberries

With classic pruning, the gooseberry bush remains a familiar bush, but without frills.

In the first year of growth, all shoots of the current year are cut off by about a third: 4-5 buds remain on each, and only 3-4 of the most powerful and growing in the right direction are left from the root shoots. All other basal shoots are cut out. In addition, they remove all branches growing down or inside the bush, dried up, broken, diseased, weak, lying on the ground - you won’t get fruits from them, and they draw nutrients onto themselves.

The next year, fresh shoots are again shortened by a third, and 6-8 of the most developed ones are left from the basal shoots.

In the third year (when the bush begins to bear fruit), it will already have 12-15 branches of different ages. Pruning is carried out according to the same scheme: shorten the shoots of the current year, and leave three or four of the best from the root shoots.

By 5-7 years (when the gooseberry reaches its fruiting peak), the bush should consist of 18-20 branches of different ages.
Starting from this moment, every autumn it is necessary to cut old branches to zero (older than 5-7 years). It is easy to recognize them: they are much darker than others. The rest of the pruning procedure remains the same.

With annual pruning and timely removal of old branches, your gooseberry bush will always remain young and productive. But what if your bushes are already very thickened, but not yet old enough to get rid of them? A radical anti-aging pruning is required! That is, you will either have to cut two-thirds of the bush to the ground, leaving only the best branches, or even cut off the entire bush, leaving fifteen centimeters from the ground, so that the young growth will go.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Gooseberries are very popular among gardeners. This berry bush is able to bring an excellent harvest for 20 years. And some varieties can bear fruit for longer. There are cases when gooseberries bear fruit for 40 years. To achieve such results, appropriate care is required.

Useful properties of gooseberries

Gooseberries have healing properties and are among the products that are allowed for diet food. Berries are used both in modern medicine and in folk recipes.

The pulp of the berry contains:

sugar - 13%;
vitamin "C" - no more than 60 mg;
citric and malic acid - up to 1.5%;
pectin - more than 1%;
trace elements and salts of iron, copper, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, sodium and calcium.

Gooseberry varieties

After the appearance of this berry in Russia, its varieties are becoming more perfect and more diverse. Many breeders are constantly improving both the appearance of the bush (by removing the thorns from the bushes) and the palatability.

In Russia, the most common are:

Russian- refers to a tall early ripe variety. Berries have an oval shape of dark red color. Their weight is 4 grams. It has a sweet and sour taste, and the yield of one bush is up to 6 kilograms;
Grushenka- has bushes of medium height, and the branches are drooping. Shoots have practically no thorns. The berries are small, weighing 5 grams. Their shape is pear-shaped, and the color can change during maturation (from light red to bright purple). The climate of central Russia is the most suitable for this variety, as it is resistant to both frost and drought. Has immunity to many diseases;
Kolobok- thorn bush of medium size. The thorns are mostly found at the bottom of the bush. The berries are quite large, weighing 7 grams. The color of the fruit is pale red, and the shape is slightly elongated. It has a pleasant sweet and sour taste. The variety is resistant to frost, and to diseases such as powdery mildew and anthracnose.

How to choose a place to land

Like all berries, gooseberries need good lighting in the area. If this requirement is not met, the yield will drop significantly. Gooseberries also do not tolerate excess moisture.

With a large amount of moisture, the likelihood of rotting of the root system increases, which will lead to the death of the bush. Therefore, wetlands and areas with closely spaced groundwater are not suitable for this crop.

Landing Features

Gooseberries are planted in a permanent place both in spring and autumn.

In the spring, gooseberries are planted in a very short period - between thawing the soil and swelling of the kidneys. Not everyone can get into such a period. Late planting may adversely affect the level of survival.

Based on this, many gardeners plant gooseberries in the fall. In such cases, planting occurs 4-6 weeks before the onset of the first frost. So the bush will have time to germinate with young roots and take root in the newly made place.

During planting, the interval between the bushes is maintained. 1 m is enough for compact varieties, and 2 m for overall ones. The dimensions of the pits for planting depend on the size of the plant itself. A trench, half a meter deep and in diameter, is great for one- and two-year-old seedlings.

In addition, fertilizers are applied to the trench or pit:

wood ash - 100 g;
double superphosphate - 50 g;
potassium sulfide - 40 g.
rotted organic matter (fallen leaves, manure) - 10 kg.

Before planting, dried roots are removed from the seedlings and the upper parts of the branches are cut off. Approximately 5 buds are left on each shoot. In the pit, the bush must be placed slightly at an angle. The soil that is poured into the pit is compacted to avoid voids. The final stage of planting is abundant watering.

Planting gooseberries on a trellis

The first step is to design the trellis. In the form of supports, either plastic or iron pipes can be used. They also use wooden or reinforced concrete poles, the length of which is 2 meters. If necessary, they can be concreted. Three rows of zinc wire are stretched onto the structure. Between rows there should be an interval of 50 centimeters.

The distance between seedlings along the trellis is no more than one meter. On each seedling, 4 branches should grow from the root. These branches are fan-shaped when tied to the bottom wire.

gooseberry care

tillage

For excellent development and stable yield of gooseberries, the soil is periodically dug up and loosened around it. The intensity and depth of digging depends on the very structure of the soil. If the soil is dense, then digging is carried out with a shovel, and with loose soil, loosening is carried out with a garden pitchfork.

The roots of the bush are close to the surface, so loosening or digging the soil should be done carefully.

During loosening, the upper part of the soil is affected, and the depth should not exceed 7 centimeters. Outside the root system, processing is carried out more carefully.

Advice! Do not forget about the removal of weeds, as they can increase the level of moisture near the root system of the bush. Such an environment is great for the development of bacteria and diseases.

Fertilization

Gooseberries are among the most prolific shrubs. Based on this, fertilizers must be applied every year. For one bush there is a standard complex of fertilizers:

potassium chloride - 20 g;
saltpeter - 40 g;
superphosphate - 80 g;
rotted manure or compost - 10 kg.

Feeding must be done twice a year.

The first feeding is carried out immediately after flowering. This will increase the level of productivity and have a positive effect on the development of shoots.

The second top dressing is after harvesting. This top dressing prepares the gooseberries for laying flower buds for the next season.

bush pruning

One of milestones is the formation of a bush. Pruning in the early years is aimed at the correct formation of the bush. Perennial branches are shortened by half, the root growth is removed.

Pruning to avoid thickening is carried out from the fourth year of the shrub. Improperly growing, weak and dried shoots are removed completely. The main part of the berries grows on branches that are 3 to 6 years old.

The formation of the bush is carried out either before bud break, or after the foliage has fallen.

Some gardeners carry out other types of pruning. To increase productivity, shortening of green branches is practiced in the summer, while leaving 5-7 leaves on each. And cut off the top. This method can bring large berries.

Watch the video! Pruning and propagation of gooseberries

Gooseberry propagation

The reproduction of this berry culture can be carried out in three ways.

Horizontal layering

When propagating in this way, grooves are prepared in advance in the projection of the bush. It is necessary to put annual strong shoots in them, which are fixed with wire pins. Shoots should be bent to the ground. After a while, the first greenery should appear from the ground. As soon as the green shoots reach 10 cm in length, the soil must be kept moist. In autumn, young plants must be separated from the mother liquor and transplanted to another place. This method is considered the most common breeding method.

Vertical layering

This method is almost identical to the previous one, but the difference is that the shoot is fixed at the ground only once and not far from the top. Moreover, the top itself should remain underground. With this method of propagation, seedlings come out strong and of high quality, but in small quantities. For reproduction by vertical layering, strong pruning of the mother liquor is necessary. In each bush, small stumps are left, which have 5 buds. Their hilling is carried out with loose and moistened soil, and in the fall they are separated from the mother bush. Larger seedlings are planted in the garden, the rest are sent to the nursery for growing.

cuttings

Reproduction by division is carried out if other methods are not possible. The bushes are dug up and divided into several parts, while it is necessary to preserve the young roots and shoots. Delenki are dipped in a mash of clay, in which the growth catalyst was previously diluted. After that, the plants are planted in an unchanged place, loosen the soil, spud and water well.

best time for cuttings - July, when the process of lignification of the tissues of the cutting takes place. Green shoots are cut into cuttings, the length of which is 10-12 centimeters. The top remains untouched. The cut point is wetted with water, after which it is lowered into a Kornevin type catalyst to form a root system. Next, it landed in open ground to a depth of 2-3 cm. After two weeks, rudimentary roots will begin to appear at the ends of the cuttings. In winter, the cuttings should remain in the same place, while covered with a large layer of mulch. Growing should take another year.

Control of diseases and pests

Aphids, moths and sawflies - lovers will feast on the leaves and stems of gooseberries. To avoid their invasion, an infusion of ash is used (1 kilogram of wood ash is diluted into 3 liters of water), karbofos and biological products. Processing is carried out in the spring. Additional processing may be required after the flowering period.

Among diseases, powdery mildew is considered the main enemy of gooseberries. Its symptoms are the appearance of gray spots on the stems and leaves.

To combat this disease, you must use a solution of baking soda (5 grams of soda per 1 liter of water), iron sulfate (3 grams per 1 liter of water). Treatment is carried out after the first signs of the disease are detected.

Harvesting

Gooseberries are a summer berry, so harvesting takes place between July and August, depending on the variety. Berries grow and ripen at the same time, but the harvest can be harvested for one month.

Another advantage of gooseberries is that even when ripe, the berries will not crumble.

Important! The yield directly depends on the conditions in which the shrub was grown, as well as on its variety.

The average yield of one bush is from 6 to 8 kilograms. The size and weight of the berries is also different. The normal weight of large-fruited varieties is 15 grams, small-fruited - 2 grams.

Conclusion

In order for a gooseberry bush to not only grow in a country house or garden plot, but to give a high yield, it is necessary to follow the rules of cultivation and carry out proper care for it.

Watch the video! Secrets of growing large gooseberries

Berry bushes actively grow shoots throughout the growing season, the prickly gooseberry is no exception and also tries to increase the volume of the crown. Pruning gooseberries in the fall is an important event to preserve and increase its yield, as well as to prevent diseases. Some gardeners, especially beginners, tend to feel sorry for the bushes and leave all the shoots, rejoicing in their annual growth, but this is a disservice to the plant itself.

A gooseberry branch bears fruit for an average of about 8 years, in the southern regions the period is reduced to 5 years. Old shoots (5-6 years old) almost do not give growth and significantly reduce fruiting activity. To maintain the yield of the bush, it is necessary to ensure that young and strong branches predominate in the crown. Old ones often become a breeding ground for fungal diseases and a habitat for pests.

Gooseberry pruning is best done in autumn, around the end of October. This is due to the fact that in the spring the procedure must be carried out before the start of sap flow, and in gooseberries this moment often comes unpredictably early. In autumn, the bush is trimmed as part of the final set of works on the site.

Tools and basic cropping rules

Gooseberry is an obstinate plant, even young shoots are not only studded with thorns, but also hard enough for pruning. To avoid injury, it is necessary to prepare a good tool and tight protective gloves with a high bell that covers the wrists.

Main arsenal of tools:

delimber;
secateurs;
hacksaw.

It is convenient to remove gooseberry shoots with a ratchet secateurs, a pruner with long handles is suitable for cutting the overgrowth in the center. A hacksaw can remove old thick branches. The cutting surface of the instruments must be sharp so as not to leave terry stumps - such wounds heal longer.

It is important for beginner gardeners to remember the basic rules.

Hemp after pruning must be covered with brilliant green, the drug "Pharmaiod" or a special paint "Luck Garden". Garden var is not recommended by many due to the increase in healing time.
When cutting a side branch, a low stump is necessarily left: injury to the main shoot is fraught with the appearance of hollows.
Before pruning, it is advisable to cover the soil under the bush with a film so that all the spilled waste with possible pests does not remain to winter at the roots.

There are two main ways to prune gooseberries.

"On the circle." It is used for thick branches, on which ring-shaped transverse thickenings (nodules) are noticeable. They contain cells capable of dividing. The cut is made along the upper edge of such an influx.
"On the kidney." Used to stimulate branching. With a thickened middle, a cut at an angle of 45 ° is done with reverse side from the kidney, directed away from the center. If the bush is "sprawling", then the cut is made from the kidney directed inward. In both cases, 5-7 mm of wood should remain above the kidney. It has been noticed that when pruning on the inner bud, the branch gives larger berries, and on the outer bud, smaller ones, but more in number.

The result should be a neat bush, in which the bulk of the shoots are oriented vertically - they minimally intersect with each other, there is no thickening. After pruning, it is useful to treat the plant with antiseptic agents such as blue vitriol or Bordeaux liquid to cauterize wounds and insure against fungal infections for the next year.

Gooseberry Pruning Types

Since gooseberry pruning performs sanitary, rejuvenating and modeling functions, it is produced in several ways. The bush is formed throughout life cycle, at each stage one or another type of trimming prevails. The very first one is pre-landing. Proper pruning of a gooseberry seedling will help it take root faster and set the right growth direction. In a young bush, before planting, it is recommended to shorten all long shoots, leaving 4 buds on the strongest, 2 on weaker and young ones. Small ones are removed completely.

The autumn formation of the gooseberry bush in subsequent years is carried out according to the following scheme.

1st year: 4-5 buds are left on fresh shoots, the rest is cut off. They also leave 3 large zero shoots (growing from the ground). All dried, diseased, clinging to the ground, as well as branches growing towards the center of the bush are removed. If the tip of a large shoot is too thin, then it should be cut to the first strong bud.
2nd year: fresh shoots are cut off by about a third, zero to expand the crown should be 7-8 pieces.
3rd year and subsequent: pruning is carried out according to the principle of the previous year, but the 4 strongest shoots are selected from the zero shoots, the rest are removed.

A five-year-old gooseberry bush already has about 20 strong branches of different ages, the oldest of which (they differ in darker bark) are cut off annually. Thanks to this approach, the plant will be strong, and the berries will not be crushed.

If the bush is running, it is over 20 years old, then anti-aging pruning will no longer have an effect.

Older "shaggy" gooseberry bushes can also be worked on by rejuvenating pruning to partially restore yields. To do this, you need to cut off all dark adult and dry branches at the root, but not more than 1/3 of the total mass, since it is necessary to take into account the "tensile strength" of the plant. In the spring, the gooseberry will actively acquire new shoots, and in the fall it is already possible to remove the next portion of the old ones. Thus, in 2-3 years, the bush will gradually improve the yield and increase the growth rate.

When pruning gooseberries, it should be borne in mind that the tendency to form zero shoots, crown branching and growth rate are largely determined by the variety. For example, Avenarius, English yellow, Red Kuzmina are actively restored with the help of zero shoots. Build up lateral shoots Date, Green bottle.

Original methods for pruning gooseberries

Some gardeners are bored with the formation of classic berry bushes, and therefore new unusual methods of pruning gooseberries have appeared, for example, the standard type. In fact, the gooseberry bush turns into a low tree, from which it is much more convenient to pick berries. Suitable for such experiments large-fruited varieties powdery mildew resistant. It is important to choose the right central axis, that is, the strongest promising shoot that grows relatively vertically. All side and zero are removed to an acceptable height (approximately 0.5-1 m). The future gooseberry stem is leveled and tied at several points to a solid support to prevent it from sagging.

The following year, 4-5 strong upper branches are selected and left around the central shoot, the rest are cut by a third. Everything that grows down and towards the center of the bush is removed completely. It is desirable to mulch the earth around the gooseberry so as not to provoke the growth of zero shoots. This will save the strength of the bush to grow the crown. In subsequent years, 4-5 branches are added, the old ones are removed.

When choosing a standard method for the formation of gooseberries, it should be taken into account that he will live only 9-11 years. Such a bush is prone to freezing, so in cold regions this method is either not used, or the plant is covered for the winter.

Another original method of pruning gooseberries is trellis. The method is troublesome and labor-intensive, suitable for lovers of garden experiments. The scheme is as follows:

you will need to install in a row several strong vertical supports with a height of about 1-1.2 m;
three rows of rope or wire are stretched between the supports: 1 row at a height of 50 cm, 2 row - 80 cm, the last one at the very top;
with an interval of 70 cm, gooseberry bushes are planted along the supports.

Each bush is initially formed from 3-4 strong shoots, which are fan-shaped tied to the trellis. During subsequent pruning, 3-4 of the largest ones are left, which are also fixed to the wire, the old ones are cut by about a third, the rest (including zero ones) are removed.

The distance between the tied gooseberry branches should not be less than 20 cm. To avoid thickening, it is better to leave some shoots to grow horizontally, controlling their length.

A gooseberry plantation on a trellis looks spectacular, the bushes are not susceptible to fungal diseases, they are well ventilated and warmed up by the sun. However, in winter, shelter is needed in a number of regions.

The gooseberry responds very gratefully to competent pruning by actively growing young shoots and large, numerous berries. This plant is generally unpretentious and not too prone to diseases, therefore, when creating optimal conditions for growth and development in the form of annual pruning, the bush will require little or no care during the growing season.

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The need for pruning gooseberries

In the absence of control over the formation of new shoots, the overgrowth becomes more and more. It only takes a couple of years for the bush to become impenetrable to light. The thorny branches are intertwined, the berries are getting smaller. Simultaneously with these processes, the development of diseases and pests occurs, which can lead to the death of gooseberries.

In order to minimize the occurrence of the described situations, it is necessary to regularly prune the shrub. Its purpose is to form a full-fledged bush, which will include both new shoots, which will soon replace the old ones, and branches that give a full harvest.

Full fruiting in gooseberries occurs 3-4 years after planting. Over the next 13 - 15 years, with proper care, the bush will produce a good harvest. Shoots aged 6 to 8 years will have the highest productivity.

Trimming types

Pruning the bush will help to get a properly formed crown and a bountiful harvest. In addition, it is an opportunity to control the growth of young shoots. Timely removal of excess branches is necessary to maintain the health of the bush.

There can be several purposes for pruning:

Preparing for landing. Produced to prepare the plant for rooting.
Crown formation. It is used in cases where compactness and good appearance of the plant are a priority.
Shrub rejuvenation. It is carried out in order to stimulate the growth of new shoots.
Sanitary treatment. Designed to remove diseased and broken branches that can restrict light from reaching young shoots and interfere with their normal development.

Preplant pruning

Before planting a gooseberry in a permanent place, it is necessary to remove broken shoots from it and those branches that have begun to dry. The rest of the growth should be shortened so that only 4 buds remain on it. If the shoot is weak, then the number of buds can be reduced to two. Very weak and thin branches are removed completely.

Pruning before planting is quite drastic. This is a guarantee good development bush in the future. Recovery will occur quickly, so you do not need to spare the bush when pruning.

Formative pruning

After the bush has taken root, the gardener faces the question: how to properly form a crown? If the preplant pruning was done correctly, in the second year the bush will give a lot of strong young shoots. This is the key to success in the formation of the crown in the future.

The order of pruning to form the crown is as follows:

Second year. The branches of the first order are cut off, the media are turned inside the growth of the kidneys. You need to cut the shoots in half. Before the onset of winter, it is also necessary to cut off the grown branches. They need to be shortened by about one third of the length. Branches of the second order are cut in half. Basal shoots must be destroyed.
Third year. The bush already has a certain shape. During this period, it is only necessary to eliminate unnecessary shoots, cutting them to a length of 10 centimeters.
Fourth year. In the spring, shoots shortened last year are again cut 5 centimeters from the top. The conductors are shortened by about half. Side shoots can also be trimmed slightly to facilitate harvesting.
For 5 and subsequent years, you should monitor the condition of the side shoots and cut them off in a timely manner.

Anti-aging pruning

After the bush has taken root, the period of its active growth begins, lasting about 8 years. This time is considered the best for receiving good harvests. In the future, the yield decreases, and sometimes completely stops.

You can extend the full life of the gooseberry by cutting it. Starting from the age of 8, it should be carried out annually after harvest. The number of branches needs to be drastically reduced. In late autumn, a third of all shoots must be removed. Those sprouts that grow out of the ground in a year also need to be shortened by about a quarter.

Another option for anti-aging pruning is possible: all shoots are shortened, their maximum length can reach 15 centimeters. If the age of the bush is more than 20 years, it is pointless to rejuvenate it.

An approximate scheme of anti-aging classic pruning is as follows:

Trimming the central branch to the minimum length. You also need to cut off all the side branches extending from it.
Branches that do not produce a crop should be cut off completely.
In case of growth that appeared on the old branch, you should not touch it.
In summer, pruning is done in the most minimal volume only in order to remove dying and drooping branches. Pinching shoots is allowed.

Sanitary pruning

often on garden plots you can meet heavily neglected gooseberry bushes. They can be reanimated, provided that they are not very old. The deterioration of the bush can be caused by pests. So, defeat by powdery mildew can lead to shedding of leaves, but the larvae of moth butterflies that have settled on the back of the leaves do not cause obvious damage, while the condition of the plant is rapidly deteriorating.

To resuscitate such a gooseberry, you need to work actively in the spring. Before the start of the growing season, all old and broken branches are cut off, especially carefully you need to clean the base of the bush. Usually it overgrows the most.

Of the entire mass of branches, only 5 or 6 can be left, whose age is one year. This is a guarantee of the appearance of fresh shoots.

The time it takes for the bush to recover is at least three years. He is practically reborn. Pruning during this period should be carried out according to the generally accepted scheme. Do not forget about the formation of the crown.

Gooseberry pruning dates

Gooseberry pruning can be done in different time. The choice of period depends on the goals of the gardener. Most often this is done before the onset of winter, in October, but it is possible to prune gooseberries in spring and even summer.

pruning in spring

Awakening of gooseberries after winter is quite early. If the plant needs a spring pruning, it is important not to miss the moment. Even before the start of the growing season, as soon as it becomes possible to enter the garden, and the air temperature becomes positive, all old shoots should be removed.

Distinguishing old shoots is easy. They are dry, black in color, often bruised and sick.

If the age of the bush is 1 year, then in the second spring all shoots that are weaker than the others should be removed. You can leave 3-4 of the strongest sprouts. This should be done every spring for five years. By the end of this period, the plant will have formed about 25 strong main shoots, which will give side branches. Pruning gooseberries in the spring also involves a slight adjustment of the top of the shrub.

pruning in summer

Gooseberry pruning in the summer is done solely in order to improve the quality of the crop. Young shoots can be removed. This is done so that the plant can spend a maximum of vitality on the ripening of berries. Such branches are cut not completely, but to the height of seven leaves. You can also remove zero shoots, the development of which the bush spends energy.

pruning in autumn

Gooseberry pruning in the autumn is carried out if there are difficulties with the implementation of this process in the spring. The ideal time for autumn pruning is late October or early November. The closer to the onset of cold weather, the better.

This is due to the fact that after pruning the shrub, lateral shoots should not develop, which is quite possible at high air temperatures. Even if they appear, then in winter, without having time to become stiff, they will surely die.

When pruning a healthy gooseberry in autumn, all shoots that have become weak, sick, grow deep into the bush, contributing to its shading, should be removed. Zero shoots should be shortened by a quarter of the length.

Pruning gooseberries in the fall includes the following highlights:

obligatory clarification of the bush for larger and sweeter berries;
removal of young shoots on an adult bush to concentrate nutrients;
cutting off the young tops of the plant that cannot survive the zamu.

Do not be afraid when pruning a "modest" type of treated bush. This will only benefit him. In the spring, growth will begin, and the plant will change.

doma-v-sadu.ru

Trimming Assignment

Pruning is the main event for the care of shrubs., as a result of which we get a properly formed and abundantly fruiting healthy plant. It helps to control the growth of young shoots, form old ones, and remove excess ones. Thickened plants give small yields of small berries, and even those will be very difficult and traumatic to collect because of the continuous pricklyness.

Depending on the purpose, pruning is divided into:

formative, which results in a well-formed compact bush;
sanitary carried out to improve the shrub, when diseased, broken, dry branches that interfere with normal development and growth are removed from the plant;
rejuvenating performed to stimulate the growth of new shoots.

Timely pruning of the gooseberry will help protect it from most diseases associated with plant thickening and extend the period of its full fruiting.

prelanding

Before planting a shrub in a permanent place broken and dry shoots are removed from the plant, the rest are shortened, leaving four buds on strong shoots, and if the shoot is weak, then two. Thin shoots are removed completely. Such a strong pruning is the key to good bush development. Gooseberries will quickly take root and recover, as they have the ability to quickly grow shoots.

Anti-aging

The gooseberry bush is at the dawn of its strength until the age of 8, after which fruiting is reduced, if not completely stopped. To prolong the full life of the shrub, it is necessary to rejuvenate it.. From 8-10 years of age, they begin to make strong pruning annually, which consists in cutting in the late autumn of the third part of the shoots of the entire bush for three years. This will serve as an impetus for the growth of zero (growing from the ground) shoots. Zero shoots growing during the year should be cut to about 1⁄4 of their length.

Gooseberry bushes over 20 years old do not make sense to rejuvenate.

The classic scheme for pruning and shaping a gooseberry bush

Formation of a gooseberry bush - forming pruning

This is the formation of the most ordinary bush. In the first year of life left on the shoots of the current year 4-5 kidneys and choose 3-4 strong zero shoots. Shoots growing horizontally, inside the bush, sick and weak are removed without regret. The next year, new grown shoots are shortened by 1/3, and we already leave zero in the sum with the previous year up to 8. In the third year of life bush will have up 12 branches aged one to three years. Pruning is carried out according to the same principle: the branches of the current year are shortened, from zero they choose up to 4 best ones. The bush is already beginning to bear fruit. By the age of five, the period of full fruiting, the bush should consist of 20 powerful branches of different ages. And from that moment on, every year the old branches are removed completely. They differ from other shoots in the darker color of the bark. The further pruning principle is the same.

Subject to this pruning technology, the bush will be constantly young and abundantly fruiting.

Unusual ways of trimming and shaping

By trimming in a certain way, you can form standard form of a bush or grow it on a trellis.

Standard

This growing a shrub in the form of a tree. Such a bush looks very nice and takes up less space on the site, harvesting is simplified.

To form a bole, the strongest vertically growing shoot is selected, all the rest are removed. All lateral shoots are also removed to the height of the selected trunk, usually a meter height is taken. The newly growing lateral shoots on the stem must be constantly removed, to facilitate the care of the bole, it is advisable to put a tube (metal or plastic) on it and bury part of the tube in the ground. This will also serve as a kind of support for the trunk, in winter it will be easier to insulate it, in order to avoid freezing. A peg is necessarily installed near the bush and the trunk is tied to it in several places.

Further formation occurs according to the classical scheme: up to 5 strong shoots are left annually, last year's shoots are shortened by about half. Escape - the continuation is not shortened. Shoots growing down and growing inside the bush are also removed. All shoots growing from the soil at the base of the bole are removed. As an option, mulch the soil under the bush with chopped bark and it’s beautiful and the growth will not break through it.

The disadvantages of this form of pruning shrubs is low frost resistance, the life expectancy of the plant is only 10-12 years, since the bole is aging and it is impossible to rejuvenate it. But you can arrange a cycle of standard bushes on the site. To do this, form new plants every year and then the replacement of the retiring ones will be constant.

tapestry

This is growing a bush on a trellis. Mandatory installation in rows of supports and tension between them of three rows of wire at a height of 50, 80, 100 cm from the ground. Bushes in rows are planted at a distance of 70-100 cm, the distance between rows is 1.5 m.

The bush should consist of 3-4 branches. They are placed in a fan and tied to the bottom wire of the trellis, their further growth is carried out vertically. When pruning, horizontal growth of growing shoots is achieved, 3-5 of the strongest are tied to the trellis, slightly shortening them, the rest are removed. The following year, these branches are tied up without cutting to the second wire. The central shoots are shortened more strongly, and the horizontal ones are weaker so that they do not lag behind in growth. Zero shoots thickening the bush are removed. Starting from the sixth year of life, anti-aging pruning of the bush begins. Cut out old branches, replacing them with young ones left in advance.

With this method of growing, the bushes are very well ventilated and illuminated.. Harvesting is a pleasure.

Pruning and rejuvenation of gooseberries in spring, timing

Gooseberries wake up very early in the spring, and if a decision is made on spring pruning, you should not be late with the deadlines. As soon as you can enter the garden and it gets warmer, we start. We remove dry and blackened shoots (branches that have been ill with powdery mildew).

If this is the second year of the life of the bush, then weak shoots are removed, leave 3-4 strongest zero shoots. And so they do for the first five years. By the beginning of full fruiting (from the fifth year of life) the bush must have up to 25 strong shoots.

Trimming bushes in summer

To increase the yield of gooseberries, it is recommended to make light pruning in the summer. She consists in shortening young green shoots. No more than seven leaves are left on the shoot, and the crown is cut off.
In August, weakly developing zero shoots are also removed, for the development of which nutrition is taken from the plant.

Proper pruning of shoots in the fall and preparation for winter

If the main pruning was not done in the spring, then in the fall it's time to do it and update the bush. It should be carried out at the end of October and not earlier, so that side shoots do not grow during the autumn thaws. They will not have time to become woody and will definitely freeze in winter.

Old, broken, diseased, weak young and branches growing deep into the bush are removed. Zero shoots are shortened by a quarter of its length.

If the end of the branch is thin, this indicates that the branch is weak, there will be no harvest on it, and so that the apical bud does not pull on food, it must also be shortened to the largest bud looking outward.
As a result of pruning, a well-lightened bush should be obtained.

Care of the bushes after circumcision consists in the obligatory feeding with organic or mineral fertilizers, since the amount of nutrients in the soil depends on it.

Fertilizing in the spring helps the plant gain strength before flowering and fruiting, after harvesting, lay fruit buds for the next year's harvest and prepare for winter. Autumn top dressing(necessarily phosphorus-potassium) helps the shrub survive the cold and prepare for fruiting.

Foliar top dressing during the growing season will not be superfluous, which can be either independent or combined with spraying against pests and diseases.

We must not forget about regular watering. Gooseberries are drought-resistant, but will be grateful for watering, especially in hot summers.. It is also necessary to saturate the earth with moisture after autumn pruning.

A sufficient amount of nutrition and moisture in the soil helps the gooseberry to move more easily and recover faster after pruning. After all, no matter how useful it is for the plant, it is stressful.

Planting a gooseberry on the plot, pay attention to it, attention is needed not only during the harvest, but throughout the season and he will surely thank you for this with a tasty and healthy berry.

profermu.com

Why prune gooseberries

Like most berry bushes, gooseberries grow quite quickly, begin to shade themselves, get sick more often and its fruiting is deteriorating. Therefore, every year, extra branches must be cut off, as well as form a bush. Already starting from the age of 5-6, it is recommended to carry out rejuvenating pruning, removing the oldest (5-6 year old) branches.

Thus, autumn pruning of gooseberries is necessary in order to:

improve the flow of sunlight and air to the branches located inside the bush;
reduce the risk of disease and pest damage (powdery mildew);
increase the volume and quality of the crop;
to give the shrub the correct shape, that is, to simplify the care of gooseberries, because it is much easier to care for and collect berries from cultivated bushes than to carry out these manipulations in hopeless thorny thickets.

Of course, you can not cut the gooseberries in the fall, but you are unlikely to be able to collect a generous harvest from a neglected plant.

However! Incorrect and untimely pruning of gooseberries adversely affects the condition of the shrub, it weakens and bears poor fruit. Therefore, so that the gooseberry pruning after harvesting and in the fall is not done in vain, you need to know the optimal timing and basic rules for this important garden manipulation.

When to prune gooseberries in autumn: the best timing

If spring pruning should be carried out as quickly as possible, until the vegetation process begins at the bush, then pruning gooseberries after fruiting (harvesting) can be divided into two stages. Dried and diseased branches (sanitary pruning) delete immediately after harvest (still in summer), but rejuvenating and shaping pruning gooseberries have already been taken autumn, and preferably after the leaves fall, but before the onset of frost and stable negative temperatures.

Note! After harvesting (in summer), shortening pruning should not be carried out, otherwise you will provoke the appearance of new growths that will not have time to lignify before frost and simply dry out.

Thus, the approximate timing of pruning gooseberries in the fall in middle lane(Moscow region) - October-November, after harvest - from late July to September.

When is the best time to prune - in autumn or spring

Of course, gooseberries can be cut in the spring, but this must be done early enough, even before the buds open, that is, before the sap flow begins. If you do this later, then the plant will simply lose some of the juices in vain for the blooming of those buds that we cut off anyway. In addition, in the spring there are a lot of things to do without it. Therefore, it is much more practical to produce autumn pruning of gooseberries.

Video: gooseberry pruning in autumn

How to prune gooseberries in autumn: basic rules and recommendations

Advice! Pruning an old gooseberry bush is very convenient to carry out with long-handled secateurs (lopper). In principle, you can use an ordinary pruner (for cutting young branches), but working with it, you will definitely prick yourself (the bush is prickly), which means that you should also wear protective gloves(optimally - welder).

What branches and shoots gooseberry need to cut after fruiting (harvesting) and in autumn:

Important! If there are branches that are bent down or located horizontally, then they should be shortened so that the extreme buds on the remaining part (or side shoots) are directed vertically or at a good angle upwards.

All cut out completely old branches, which over 5 years and older.

Weak young growth and thin branches you need to shorten to the largest bud, which does not look inside the bush, but out.

Worth knowing! How to distinguish weak shoots from strong ones? Strong shoots have an annual growth of at least 50 cm.

Strong substitution shoots (null) - those shoots that grow from the ground, you need shorten 1/4 above the kidneys so that they branch better. Rest weak young (null) shoots, you need to cut it out completely so that they do not obscure the crown. There should be 3-4 of them in total.

How properly cut branches and shoots gooseberries in autumn

Thus, a 5-year-old bush should have no more than 18 branches, that is, 2-3 branches each year, including 3-4 strong zero shoots.

Video: how to cut gooseberries

Interesting! Some gardeners do not prune gooseberries according to the rules, because this greatly simplifies the process and makes it less labor and time consuming. At the same time, no special losses or decrease in fruiting are observed at all, but on the contrary, the shrub gives excellent yields. For more information about this autumn gooseberry pruning, see the video below.

Video: how to cut gooseberries against the rules

Scheme of forming pruning by years

If you planted a shrub seedling and want to form a compact and abundantly fruiting bush, then you should adhere to a certain scheme for the formation of gooseberries, taking into account the age of the bush (pruning by years):

After planting a seedling- all shoots (if not the only one) are shortened, while leaving 3-4 buds above the soil surface.
after 1 year- all young shoots are cut into 4-5 buds and 2-3 zero shoots are left. At the same time, it is worth starting to carry out sanitary pruning - remove diseased branches and those branches that do not grow vertically, but are directed to the center of the bush.
after 2 years(3-year-old seedling) - pruning (pinching) of all zero shoots by 1/4 is carried out, as well as shortening by 1/4 of the growth growing on skeletal branches. This will provoke the growth of a young shrub in width, and not up. Do not forget about sanitary pruning.
after 3-4 years- fully corresponds to pruning on a 3-year-old seedling. Sanitary pruning.
for 5 years and beyond- rejuvenating pruning of the bush begins. First, sanitary pruning is carried out, then all old shoots are cut out (rejuvenating pruning) and the forming one is completed - everything is like a 2-year-old (3-year-old seedling).
And don't forget every year leave 2-3 new zero replacement shoots.

Also exists standard method of forming a gooseberry bush.

Pruning by years should be carried out according to the following scheme (by years), shown in the picture below:

Video: standard gooseberry

How to prune an old and neglected bush (anti-aging pruning)

Note! You need to cut off old branches without fanaticism. Gooseberries bear fruit on young growth, which is formed on old branches (the most prolific 3-5 years of age), and this is its difference from currants.

If you inherited (inherited or bought from the previous owner) an old plot with overly thickened gooseberry bushes that give quite small harvest, then in order to restore fruiting, you need to carry out the correct rejuvenating pruning of the shrub. And it is better to divide it into 2 stages. Naturally, it is better to start with sanitary pruning, and then get rid of all the old (anti-aging pruning) and other extra branches. The bush is cleared, which means that all conditions are created for the active growth of new young shoots.

The scheme of rejuvenation and pruning of the old gooseberry bush:

Video: rejuvenating autumn gooseberry pruning

Interesting! There is quite radical rejuvenation method old gooseberry - cut it to zero.

In order to rejuvenate the gooseberry, you cut off almost the entire bush at soil level. Although it is still better to leave 3-4 of the youngest and strongest branches (with light bark).

In the first year after heavy pruning, a lot of shoots will grow. Part will need to be removed, leaving only 4-5 of the strongest and most well-located.

Next, you will need to enter organic fertilizers in the form of mulch. Or sprinkle mineral on the surface, lightly close them with a rake and pour abundantly.

What to do before and after the autumn pruning of gooseberries

cleaning the trunk circle from old mulch and litter so that pests do not winter there;
loosening;
watering and fertilization;
direct cutting;
treatment for pests and diseases;
shelter (new mulching) for the winter.

In order to avoid mistakes when pruning gooseberries in the fall, after harvesting, it is very important, especially for a novice gardener, to adhere to the optimal timing, rules and schemes for pruning a bush. In addition, do not ignore other autumn activities for the care of the berry for the winter. Only then will you get the desired effect.

Video: autumn gooseberry pruning

By the way! autumn pruning gooseberry is very similar (almost identical, but there are a couple of important differences and nuances) to pruning currants in autumn. Therefore, if you deal with pruning one of the berry crops, then understanding how to properly trim the second one will not be difficult.

Various climbing plants in certain climatic conditions are grown on a trellis. For example, clematis, lemongrass and many others. In the same way, you can grow crops such as gooseberries, raspberries and blackberries. Even trees are grown, for example, apples, pears. But for trees, this method is used less often.

The goal of this method is one - to get the richest possible harvest, with minimal care. But in order for this to happen, you must first work hard. Growing gooseberries on a trellis has both its pros and cons. About them, as well as about the cultivation technology itself, will be discussed below.

What is this cultivation method used for?

Every gardener who respects himself and his work dreams of a rich harvest of various berries. In this case, we will talk about gooseberries, which are one of the most favorite delicacies in the summer for adults and children.

Having planted bushes of this berry on their site, many gardeners limit themselves to watering and pruning. And then they begin to wonder why the harvest is small, or plentiful, but the berries are small. This is because the bushes do not have enough sunlight.

The gooseberry, as you know, is a photophilous berry. But not all areas can be located in a well-lit place. And in order for future berries to get enough sunlight, they use such a growing method as growing on trellises.

Gooseberries on a trellis are an agrotechnical method that is practiced in many countries of the world both in private gardens and in the mass cultivation of this berry.

Benefits of trellises

As mentioned above, in order to get a bountiful harvest of berries, it is necessary to provide the bushes with enough sunlight. And the trellises serve precisely to ensure that the branches of the bush are evenly located on the same plane, receiving sufficient illumination throughout the day.

As a result - earlier and friendly ripening of berries, increased yield. And the bushes formed in this way get sick much less than those planted in the usual way. And the berries get dirty less.

The main advantage of growing on trellises, both Western and domestic gardeners, is called the increase in the size of the berries. For example, on an ordinary bush, the maximum weight of one berry can reach 3-4 grams. But on a bush planted on a trellis - up to 7 grams. This is almost twice as much. Many will say that the variety of planted gooseberries also affects this indicator.

But even with a single variety, the indicators will still increase. In addition, the technology of growing on trellises can significantly reduce the time for caring for a single bush, and open up the maximum approach to it.

The disadvantage of this method of cultivation can be called the appearance of aphids and powdery mildew, which, as a rule, affect the tops of the bushes. This can be avoided if the branches are pruned in a timely manner. You need to do this regularly.

How to grow and what varieties

You can grow gooseberries of any variety using this technology. But the most suitable gardeners in various European countries are recognized as tall and medium-sized varieties.

The technology of growing on a trellis is somewhat different from the most ordinary planting. In one case, this is very good - gardeners are gaining new skills by increasing the demand for gardening.

At first glance, landing does not cause any difficulties. However, it is slightly different from easy way cultivation. Every gardener will understand this in the process of preparation and what will grow on the trellis.

Gooseberries are planted in open ground with the advent of autumn.
Planting material should be used as a one-year-old and a two-year-old.
At the same time, along with the landing, a trellis is also installed, the height of which should not be less than two meters.
The material that can be used for such supports is wooden beams or metal beams.
Then, parallel to the ground, a wire is pulled between the beams, pulled in three rows and with a distance of half a meter between each parallel.
Each of the gooseberry bushes is planted at a distance of half a meter from the other. Then it is cut so that only three or four buds remain.

The overwintered gooseberry will start up new shoots, among which in the spring it is necessary to choose only the strongest ones. There should be three such escapes in total. The rest are removed along with the stumps. Those that remain should be fan-shaped distributed along the trellis, securing the shoots at the lower level.

Then cut off the top of the shoots a little. On each of the individual branches, all those buds that are at a distance of 25 cm from the ground should be removed.

Care, main stages

Gooseberries grown on a trellis do not need any special care. In order for it to grow well and bear fruit, it is necessary:

land mulching;
timely watering the bush;
feeding;
pruning branches.

The nuances of this method of growing

This cultivation technology, like many others, has its own nuances. For example, in the second year, the bush should remove all shoots branching from the root collar. And also to form the thickness of the shoots and their density. To do this, it will be necessary to shorten the growths that formed in the second year of growth at the main gooseberry branches.