Often, cracks that appear in private homes can raise many questions and significantly spoil the mood of their owners. As a rule, this means that mistakes were made during the construction phase, as a result of which cracks form.

But do not immediately panic, because the situation can be saved. Initially, you will need to establish the reason why the crack occurred, and only then you can use a special screed at home.

Causes of cracks

The main cause of wall cracking is the shrinkage of the foundation.

All the reasons that will be given in the table accelerate the formation of cracks in houses. The main factor by which such a flaw occurs is the subsidence of the foundation of the building. If certain circumstances are taken into account, then cracks can be avoided, and they will have a minimum size. So, the reasons and descriptions for them, for which damage appears, are given in the table:

Cause	Description	Problem Solving Methods
No bonding materials between bricks	This happens if another building or room is already attached to the finished house. As a rule, it is the extensions that begin to crack, as they begin to move away from the main building.	If the extension has moved away and no longer moves, you can repair the crack with putty. The second method of solving the problem is a screed at home. To do this, metal corners 10x10 cm are installed in the corners of the house, a rod is fixed between them and tightened with nuts.
Lack of bonding materials	If mistakes were made during construction and there is not enough mortar between the bricks, then after the foundation has set in the building or extension, a crack may occur.	A screed similar to that described above will help solve the problem.
Technological violation of brick laying	A crack can go along the seam of the mortar, while the brick will remain intact. In other words, the crack found a weakness in the building and began to appear.	Most likely, it will not be possible to solve such a problem and you can only close the crack with a mortar. The problem is that during construction, the brick was not wetted or placed on the mortar without pressing down, this all makes the hitch weak and fragile.
Appearance of a corner crack	As a rule, a problem arises in the corners of buildings if there is a lot of weight and a lot of force is exerted on the foundation. The problem lies in insufficient reinforcement of the corners or the lack of a bundle.	A screed or strengthening the foundation can solve the problem.

Having studied the main causes and features of damage, we can conclude that in such cases, the only solution would be to tighten the house. Of course, this method is not very aesthetic, but reliable.

Cracks in the finish of a building do not always indicate damage to the walls. You should make sure that the damage has affected the bearing materials.

Basic rules for screeding houses

Steel corners

In an already finished building, a screed is necessary to prevent the appearance of new cracks, as well as to ensure that the damage that has already appeared does not increase. The technology has proven itself well today. For a house screed with dimensions of 6x6 meters and a height of 3 meters, the following materials will be needed:

Steel corners 10x10 cm - 4 pcs. 3 m.
Rods in diameter from 16 mm - 48 m.
Thick-walled pipe, the diameter is similar to rods - length 1.5 meters.
Threaded studs for rods - 16 pcs.
Nuts and washers - 16 pcs.

Threaded studs

To pull the house, you need to install metal corners at the corners of the building. Sections of thick-walled pipes are pre-welded on them. Studs are fixed to the rods, and after that the whole structure is tightened with nuts. For the reliability of the whole structure, some rules should be taken into account:

For clarity, it is worth looking at the screed of the house from cracks in the walls in the photo. This will allow you to deal with the fasteners and the design as a whole:

After carrying out the work, the house can be ennobled, for example, with siding, but leave access to the nuts to tighten them.

If the damage is small, then other means can be used. ? To do this, use the following tips:

In case of small damage, which does not exceed 5 mm in width, you can use ordinary putty.
If the damage is up to 1 cm, then you will need to use a solution based on sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 3.
For large and deep damage, it is recommended to seal the crack with foam, and then apply a cement-sand mortar.

Before you start working on or, read the recommendations of specialists.

The most common reason why cracks occur is the overload of the roofs of private houses, due to incorrect calculation of the snow load.

Before covering up the damage, you will need to remove dirt, dust and other debris. It is also recommended to wet the area to be repaired for better adhesion of materials. For more information on how to make a screed at home, see this video:

If a crack begins to appear on the house, then you can be sure that it will not disappear. A screed or strengthening the foundation will help solve the problem. If the work is done correctly, damage will not increase, and reliable protection will be provided to the house for decades to come.

Concrete can withstand bending effects well, but cannot cope with bending on its own. To ensure the bearing capacity, do-it-yourself reinforcement of the foundation is performed. To a greater extent, this applies to tape and slab structures. In piles and poles, metal is laid more out of design considerations than real need.

Reinforcement rules

Reinforcement of the strip foundation and any other is carried out taking into account the following rules:

for working reinforcement, rods of a class not lower than A400 are used;
it is not recommended to use welding to connect the rods, since it weakens the section;
without fail, it is necessary to tie a metal frame from reinforcement at the corners, welding is not allowed here;
even for clamps, smooth fittings are not recommended;
it is necessary to strictly observe the protective layer of concrete, equal to 4 cm, this will protect the metal from corrosion (rust);
in the manufacture of frames, the rods in the longitudinal direction are connected with an overlap, which is taken equal to at least 20 rod diameters and at least 25 cm;
with a frequent location of the metal, it is worth controlling the size of the aggregate in concrete: it should not get stuck between the rods.

An example of the placement of a reinforcing cage
in strip foundation

Properly prepared reinforcing cage is half the success. It is he who will save the foundation in case of uneven deformations that create bending loads. It is worth considering the issue in more detail using the example of a strip foundation with your own hands.

What reinforcement is needed for the structure

Reinforcement of the strip foundation assumes the presence of three groups of rods:

workers who fit along the tape;
transverse horizontal;
transverse vertical.

Transverse reinforcement under the strip foundation is also called clamps. Its main purpose is to connect the working rods into a single whole. Reinforcement of the strip foundation is carried out in strict accordance with regulatory documents. What reinforcement is needed for the foundation? To give an accurate answer, complex calculations are performed.

In order not to hire professionals, you can get by with a simplified version. The technology of reinforcing a strip foundation for a small house allows you to assign sections constructively. This is due to the fact that the tape perceives relatively small loads and works mainly in compression.

To make a reinforcing frame, use constructive, that is, the minimum allowable, section sizes:

For working reinforcement - 0.1% of the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation for the house. However, if the side of the tape is 3 meters or less, the minimum allowable value is assumed to be 10 mm. If the side of the building has a length of more than 3 m, then the diameter of the working reinforcement cannot be less than 12 mm. rods with a cross section of more than 40 mm are not allowed.
Horizontal clamps cannot be less than one quarter of the workers in diameter. For design reasons, a size of 6 mm is prescribed.
The diameter of the vertical reinforcement depends on the height of the tape for the foundation of the house. For shallow ones, the dimensions of which are 80 cm or less, rods from 6 mm are suitable.

The rules for reinforcing a strip foundation of a recessed type provide for the use of rods of 8 mm or more.

Scheme of typical sections of reinforcement bars

If a brick building is being built, it is worth laying reinforcement with a small margin. This option will give confidence in the reliability of the design.

Rebar knitting

The reinforcement scheme of the strip foundation involves connecting the rods by tying. A bonded frame is more durable than a welded frame. This is due to the fact that the likelihood of burning through the metal increases. But this rule does not apply to factory-made elements. Outside the construction site, it is possible to connect parts without significant loss of strength.

Places for knitting reinforcement

It is allowed to reinforce the foundation in straight sections by welding to increase the speed of work. But reinforcing corners is possible only with the use of knitting wire. These sections of the structure are the most critical, so you should not rush.

Before knitting reinforcement for a strip foundation, you need to prepare materials and tools. There are two ways in which metal bonding is performed:

special hook;
knitting machine (gun).

The first option is available, but only suitable for small volumes. Laying reinforcement in a strip foundation in this case will take a lot of time. For connection, an annealed wire is used, the diameter of which is 0.8-1.4 mm. The use of other materials is not allowed.

Scheme of knitting reinforcement for a strip foundation

To build your house, you need to show patience and care. It is not worth saving time and money, as this can cause trouble during operation. With the connection of the rods along the length of the problems should not arise. In this case, the process is quite simple, it is only important to observe the minimum amount of overlap.

But how to knit reinforcement for a strip foundation in the corners? There are two types of corner joints: between two perpendicular structures and at the junction of one wall to another.

Both options have several technologies for performing work. For corner walls use the following:

Hard paw. To perform work, a “foot” is made at the end of each rod at a right angle. In this case, the rod resembles a poker. The length of the foot should be at least 35 diameters, it is better to prescribe more. The bent part of the rod is attached to the corresponding perpendicular section. Thus, it turns out that the outer rods of the frame of one wall are connected to the outer ones of the other wall, and the inner ones are welded to the outer ones.
With the use of L-shaped clamps. The principle of action is similar to the previous option. But in this case, the foot is not made, but an l-shaped element is taken, the side of which has a length of at least 50 diameters of the working reinforcement. One side is tied to the frame of one wall, and the second to the frame of a perpendicular one. In this case, the inner rods must be connected to the outer ones. The spacing of the clamps should be three-quarters of the height of the basement wall.
With the use of U-shaped clamps. At the corner you need two elements, the length of the sides of which will be 50 diameters of the reinforcement. Each of their clamps is welded to two parallel rods and to one perpendicular rod.

How to properly reinforce a strip foundation at obtuse corners. To do this, the outer rod is bent to the desired degree value and an additional one is attached to it as a reinforcement. The inner elements are bound to the outer.

Scheme of correct and incorrect reinforcement of obtuse corners

To lay the reinforcement at the junction of one wall to another, they use approximately the same methods as in the previous case:

overlap;
L-shaped clamps;
U-shaped clamps.

The value of overlaps and joints is taken equal to 50 diameters. When performing work, it is worth remembering the most common mistakes:

binding at right angles;
lack of communication between external and internal elements;
longitudinal rods are connected by viscous crosshairs.

Do not repeat these mistakes when building your own home.

Using a crochet hook

Before reinforcing the strip foundation, it is worth learning how to use the working tool. A special gun is rarely used for private housing construction; such equipment requires additional costs. It is profitable to invest in a tool only for the fulfillment of orders, and not for the construction of one house.

For this reason, the hook has become the most common knitting tool in private housing construction. It will be easier to use it if you prepare special templates in advance. Such a detail works like a workbench and greatly facilitates the work. Things will go faster. To make a template, wooden bars are required, the width of which is about 30-50 cm, and the length cannot be more than 3 m, since such a workbench is inconvenient to use.

The most common knitting method is crochet.

In a wooden fixture, you need to drill grooves and holes that will repeat the outlines of the rods in the frame. In such holes, pieces of knitting wire 20 cm long are laid out in advance, and then reinforcement rods are fixed.

In order to understand the knitting technology, you can consider examples. During construction, two options will be required: for crosshairs (when the elements are perpendicular to each other) and for overlap joints. In a strip foundation, the second technology is more often needed; when erecting a slab structure, the first one will be the most relevant.

To connect the laid frame into a single whole when overlapping, the hook should be used in this order:

connections are made in several places along the length of the joint, the location of the wire is appointed so that it is in the recessed part of the reinforcement profile;
the wire is folded in half and laid under the junction;
with the help of a hook, a loop is hooked;
the free end is brought to the instrument and placed on it with a slight bend;
begin to rotate the hook, twisting the wire;
carefully remove the instrument.

For one overlapping connection, the procedure is repeated 3-5 times. Connecting elements at once, as is done with cross-connection, is not enough. The knitting of the reinforcement under the strip foundation in this case will be unreliable, since fixing at one point does not prevent the elements from shifting.

Proper connection of the frame will ensure the reliability, strength and durability of the supporting part of the building.

The strength, reliability and durability of the foundation support structure largely depend on the quality and correctness of the arrangement of the reinforcing frame. The reinforcing belt can be considered as a kind of skeleton, contributing to a significant increase in the stability of the base to incoming loads.

Reinforcing belt
Reinforcing frame device

When preparing for the forthcoming pouring of the foundation, it is necessary, firstly, to figure out which reinforcement is expedient and optimal to include in such a structure, and secondly, in what ways can the connection of individual elements into a single frame be ensured.

You are invited to read the information regarding the listed points and important related nuances below.

fiberglass frame

Diameter

When choosing reinforcement for the foundation, first of all, pay attention to the diameter of the rods. The dependence is simple: the thicker the reinforcement, the more serious loads it can withstand. When determining the optimal diameter, first of all, the characteristics of the soil (the main point is heaving) and the estimated weight of the finished building, taking into account the mass of its internal arrangement and residents / visitors, are taken into account.

Rebar diameter, mass, total cross-sectional area

This is how it should ideally be. Along with this, many private developers refuse to draw up project documentation and perform related extensive calculations, adhering to average and generally accepted values. In the case of the construction of relatively small buildings, for example, such as a bathhouse, such an approach is acceptable.

Class

The second important indicator is the class of reinforcement. For a private foundation, class A-3 material is suitable.

Corrugated fittings A3 steel grade A500C, GOST 5781-82

The fittings of this group are very convenient in work (it easily bends without the use of special tools), durable and reliable. Less commonly used rods of class A-2 (they can be bent 180 degrees, A-3 - 90 degrees).

Material

An equally important indicator is the material of manufacture of reinforcement. Previously, there were no questions regarding this point - the bars were made of durable steel, there were no alternatives.

However, the construction market is constantly developing and expanding. One of the confirmations of this was the appearance on the sale of fiberglass reinforcement.

The rods of this group are characterized by improved operational and practical characteristics. Among the main advantages of fiberglass reinforcement, the following points should be noted:

high indicators of reliability, strength and durability;
relatively low cost;
light weight.

The use of fiberglass reinforcement allows you to save on average up to 30-40% on the purchase and transportation of material for arranging the reinforcing frame compared to more traditional steel elements.

The light weight of fiberglass reinforcement makes it possible to transport it in a simple car. The armature has no restrictions on length. An ordinary grinder is used for cutting rods.

Important! Before cutting fiberglass rebar, be sure to wear protective overalls, gloves, goggles and a respirator.

Fiberglass reinforcement of various diameters is available for sale, involving the use of different knitting options. Predominantly for longitudinal reinforcement, 8 mm rods are used, for transverse - 6 mm.

The fastening of fiberglass reinforcement is most often performed in 2 ways:

using a knitting wire;
with plastic clamps.

The procedure for implementing both methods remains identical for steel and fiberglass reinforcement and will be discussed in the relevant sections.

Prices for fiberglass reinforcement

fiberglass reinforcement

Wire, clamp, retainer: features of existing fasteners

The fastening of reinforcing bars into a single frame can be carried out using wire, clamps and special clamps. About them in the table.

Table. Materials for fastening reinforcement

Bonding material	Description
	The most traditional, budgetary and familiar (especially for builders of the "old school") material for knitting reinforcement. Made from annealed steel. Sold mainly "wholesale", ie. in packages (more convenient, because the material is already cut into pieces of a suitable length) or special coils. The weight of the package and the length of the wire pieces may vary depending on the manufacturer. The most convenient are 5-kilogram packs filled with 40-centimeter pieces of wire. One such package usually contains from 1000 to 1500 pieces of wire.
	According to the principle of use, it is not much different from a knitting wire - the same methods, similar tools. It is characterized by great ease of use (easier to bend and twist). It costs a little more than wire. It has an increased diameter (an average of 4 mm versus 1.2 mm for the wire). To ensure a reliable connection of the reinforcing bars, it is enough to use a 20 cm clamp per intersection point.
	The most modern version of the connection of reinforcing bars. The fasteners are made of plastic. They perform best in combination with fiberglass reinforcement. The advantages over steel reinforcement and knitting wire are obvious. To fully understand them, you need to pay attention to only 1 drawback of steel reinforcement - it is subject to corrosion. Rust can increase the diameter of a metal bar by an order of magnitude. Its strength, however, does not change for the better. Corrosion leads to the appearance of pores in concrete. Water enters the pores. In winter, the water expands and increases the size of the cracks. The clamps do not rust, and it is much easier, more convenient, and faster to connect reinforcement with their help than with wire. Several types of fasteners are available for sale, allowing you to connect reinforcing bars in various spatial directions, equip "stands" (as in the image) and solve other tasks related to reinforcement.

Bonding material

Description

The most traditional, budgetary and familiar (especially for builders of the "old school") material for knitting reinforcement. Made from annealed steel.

Sold mainly "wholesale", ie. in packages (more convenient, because the material is already cut into pieces of a suitable length) or special coils. The weight of the package and the length of the wire pieces may vary depending on the manufacturer. The most convenient are 5-kilogram packs filled with 40-centimeter pieces of wire. One such package usually contains from 1000 to 1500 pieces of wire.

According to the principle of use, it is not much different from a knitting wire - the same methods, similar tools. It is characterized by great ease of use (easier to bend and twist). It costs a little more than wire. It has an increased diameter (an average of 4 mm versus 1.2 mm for the wire). To ensure a reliable connection of the reinforcing bars, it is enough to use a 20 cm clamp per intersection point.

The most modern version of the connection of reinforcing bars. The fasteners are made of plastic. They perform best in combination with fiberglass reinforcement. The advantages over steel reinforcement and knitting wire are obvious. To fully understand them, you need to pay attention to only 1 drawback of steel reinforcement - it is subject to corrosion. Rust can increase the diameter of a metal bar by an order of magnitude. Its strength, however, does not change for the better.

Corrosion leads to the appearance of pores in concrete. Water enters the pores. In winter, the water expands and increases the size of the cracks.

The clamps do not rust, and it is much easier, more convenient, and faster to connect reinforcement with their help than with wire. Several types of fasteners are available for sale, allowing you to connect reinforcing bars in various spatial directions, equip "stands" (as in the image) and solve other tasks related to reinforcement.

Due to the fact that the guide in question is devoted specifically to the knitting of reinforcement, the order of connecting the rods with special clamps will not be considered - this process is not viscous in the traditional sense and is generally intuitive.

Wire and clamps should be given more attention.

First, the wire.

For the manufacture of such, as noted, low-carbon steel grades are used. The annealed material is relatively easy to bend and does an excellent job with the tasks assigned to it. Non-galvanized knitting wire (black) and its galvanized counterpart (white) are available for sale.

Many craftsmen consider the purchase of galvanized binding wire for arranging the foundation to be an excess and an inappropriate waste of money, arguing that the reinforcing frame becomes inaccessible to air after pouring concrete, therefore, nothing will rust. Along with this, it is impossible to exclude the occurrence of corrosion, as noted earlier.

if you decide to use steel reinforcement, you can knit with both galvanized and non-galvanized wire - if corrosion gets to the reinforcing frame, it will not matter to her what “is”, even reinforcement, even wire, and it will not be possible to avoid deterioration in the quality characteristics of the foundation under such circumstances ;
if it is decided to use fiberglass reinforcement, it is better to knit with galvanized wire - this will minimize the risk of corrosion and ensure a longer service life of the supporting structure.

As for the diameter, the most optimal in terms of ease of use and reliability is the 1.2-1.4 mm version. The "one" is weak for the foundation, extra effort will be spent on working with the "two".

Second, clamps.

This, as noted, is a modernized and improved version of the binding wire. They are made of plastic, not steel, so when using such fasteners, the likelihood of corrosion inside the supporting structure is excluded. Along with this, it is precisely because of the material for the manufacture of plastic clamps that many developers have a number of well-founded questions regarding the fasteners of this group.

Will the clamps be able to withstand the loads created inside the foundation? Can.
Will the fasteners break over time, violating the uniform distribution of loads and, in general, worsening the quality of the foundation? Will not break.
Is a plastic clamp really reliable? Indeed, but you need to correctly approach the issue of his choice.

Helpful advice! For knitting reinforcement, plastic clamps using steel wire as a core are best suited. Such clamps are more expensive than steel wire, but they do not occupy the convenience in work.

Important note! Plastic clamps cannot be used for knitting reinforcement when carrying out work on arranging the foundation in winter - in the cold, the material for making clamps becomes brittle almost instantly. The exception is special clips made of polyamide.

knitting wire prices

knitting wire

First, remember the main rule: reinforcement is not connected by welding, but it is connected.

Rebar bonding - diagram

The bottom line is this: the contact of the metal with the electrode helps to reduce the strength of the first so that even the loads that occur with the minimum possible shrinkage of the foundation can lead to catastrophic consequences, the sequence of which is usually as follows:

the joints of the reinforcement are destroyed;
the reinforcing frame disintegrates;
the concrete structure begins to crack.

What it threatens the structure erected on the foundation does not need comments. As an exception, only special reinforcing bars can be considered, the manufacturing technology of which, according to GOST, initially implies the possibility of subsequent welding.

Secondly, vertical support rods that are installed as supports for horizontally oriented bars cannot simply be driven into the ground. It is correct to do this: the lower reinforcing row is laid on special plastic clamps (the so-called “cup holders”, demonstrated earlier), and the upper part of the vertical rods is connected to the upper row of the frame. Such placement will exclude the contact of the rods with the external environment.

Thirdly, the upper horizontal row of the frame must be tied from the inside - this is more difficult, but more correct. Often, uninformed developers make the mistake of leaving the top row of the frame unfixed. If concrete is poured manually, nothing bad will happen in such conditions. When pouring with a special concrete pump, the mixture is supplied under pressure. The pressure created will push the reinforcement apart, causing the wire to burst.

Fourthly, when performing reinforcement, special attention should be paid to the corners of the structure, because. they are the weakest point of the foundation. In such areas, the rods do not fit at right angles, but are bent. The overlaps, at the same time, are hidden in the wall. It is important that adjacent reinforcing bars do not overlap at one point. The principle is shown in the image.

Reinforcement is considered correct, as a result of which a rigid spatial frame is obtained that can withstand the weight of a person without visible changes in the structure.

Prices for plastic retainer for fittings

plastic rebar clamp

For knitting reinforcement, you can use a wide variety of devices - from pliers to special automatic pistols.

The use of pliers and wire cutters with pre-blunt teeth is the most primitive option. Its only advantage is the absence of the need to purchase additional devices, however, twisting the wire with such improvised means is long, inconvenient and tiring. Therefore, we will refrain from considering them.

If you are on a budget, make at least an elementary homemade crochet hook. To do this, you will not need anything other than a nail with a diameter of 4-5 mm, a blank for a pen or an old unnecessary screwdriver / awl and a hammer.

To make a hook, do the following:

prepare a pen. You can use any suitable wooden blank (it is more convenient and easier to drive a nail into wood), for example, from a used home tool. The handle can be made from other materials, the main thing is that you feel comfortable using it;
drive a nail into the handle, leaving 3-4 cm free;
cut off the head of the nail, for example, using wire cutters or other suitable tool;
bend the nail into a hook. This is done as follows: you put the nail on a suitable stand, for example, a brick, and gradually use a hammer to shape the workpiece into a crochet hook.

The procedure for making a hook from a screwdriver / awl is reduced to the last step of the above guide. At the output, you should get a device that looks something like the following.

Knitting with a regular crochet

Having prepared a homemade hook or bought a ready-made tool in a hardware store, get to work. To begin with, carefully practice on third-party pieces of reinforcement until you thoroughly understand the principle of operation. It consists in the following:

a piece of knitting wire with a length of at least 200 mm is folded in half;
the resulting workpiece is wrapped diagonally at the point of connection;
the hook is threaded into the created loop;
the free ends of the binding wire are gently pulled through the loop. The hook also helps at this stage;
without taking out the working tool, it is turned clockwise until a reliable connection is obtained. Usually a few (up to 3-4) turns are enough. Do not twist the wire too much - it will break. Bend the excess parts of the ends of the wire. If the ends are too long, you can cut them off with wire cutters or other suitable tool.

The process is shown schematically in the following image.

For a better understanding of the technology, check out the step-by-step illustrations.

There are several other options for crocheting rebar, but the above method is the most reliable, it is recommended that you stick to it.

Also, the method in accordance with which the performer must sequentially perform the following manipulations performs well:

fold the piece of wire in half, as in the previous case;
bring the folded wire under the reinforcement at the junction;
grab the loop with a crochet hook;
bend the remaining free “tail” through the hook;
twist the resulting loop.

The procedure for performing work in accordance with this method is shown in the following illustrations.

Video - Crochet reinforcement

Knitting with semi-automatic crochet

The semi-automatic, also reversible and screw hook, is an improved and more convenient version of the above device.

The length (as a rule, it is 32 cm) and, in general, the design features of the reverse hook allow for high-quality twisting of the wire with one tightening. The soft rubber handle makes working with the tool even more comfortable and safe, eliminating the possibility of blisters on the hands.

The procedure for using such a hook is as follows:

the performer circles the reinforcing bars with wire at the junction (the procedure is the same as in the case of using an ordinary hook, all the necessary information was given above);
the hook is inserted into the loop;
the performer pulls the handle of the instrument towards himself.

That's all. As a result of such simple actions, the device, which works like a spinning top, quickly tightens the wire, ensuring a tight, reliable and neat knot. Labor intensity and time spent on work are reduced significantly.

The tool is suitable for both professional and private use. The reversible hook does not need any special maintenance - it is enough to periodically lubricate the working elements with oil.

The principle of operation of a screw crochet hook is demonstrated in detail in the following video.

Video - Knitting with a semi-automatic crochet

Crocheting by hand is a rather protracted and laborious undertaking. And although the semi-automatic hook, discussed in the previous section, can significantly facilitate and speed up the implementation of reinforcing work, there is a great opportunity to do everything much faster and with even less effort. A drill driver will help with this.

All you need to do is make a hook (an ordinary nail with a diameter of 0.5 cm is suitable as a workpiece, you have already familiarized yourself with the principle of making a hook in one of the previous sections) and fix it in the screwdriver chuck in the same way as ordinary drills are installed ( in detail, the sequence for replacing the working tool should be clarified in the instructions specifically for your screwdriver, because for different models of tools, these points may vary slightly).

Such a design will look like this.

The further procedure does not differ from the technology of crocheting reinforcement: you still fold the wire in half, wind it under the reinforcement, grab the loop with a hook, but twist it no longer manually, but with a screwdriver, applying minimal effort.

When twisting the wire, the tool experiences practically no load, so even the most budgetary drill-driver with a minimum power can be used for knitting. It is better that the model is equipped with a rotation speed controller. Before work, set it to a minimum.

Video - Knitting reinforcement with a screwdriver

The gun makes rebar tying as fast, simple and convenient as possible - the most advanced models of such guns are able to create a connection in less than a second. No preparatory measures are required: the wire is wound on the gun spool, the user simply brings the tool to the junction and presses the appropriate button. For information on special options and functions, please refer to the instructions for the specific instrument.

It looks like this.

You do not need to cut the wire before work: the tool will do everything on its own. This is a big advantage - there is no waste in the form of scraps of binding wire, so that the amount of unnecessary costs and operating costs is significantly reduced.

The gun is easy to use - it can be held with one hand, the second, while holding the reinforcing cage, which eliminates the need to attract additional labor in the form of assistants.

An automatic gun, in contrast to hand tools, allows you to count on a constant high quality of knitting. By default, all models have the functions of adjusting the length of the segments and the tightening force.

Weight	Rebar size	Price
1.4 kg	D19хD18	RUB 48,780
1.5 kg	D20хD22	RUB 60,920
2.25 kg	-	52 000 rub.
2.4kg	from 20 to 35 mm	RUB 165,000

Among the disadvantages of an automatic gun for knitting reinforcement, the following points can be distinguished:

high cost of tools and accessories (wire spools);
the need for preliminary training in working with a gun (in general, nothing complicated, but the extra time is still spent. In practice, it is more than offset by the savings in time spent on twisting the wire);
the impossibility of using the gun in hard-to-reach places. Even with such a serious assistant, you still cannot completely abandon the use of hand tools for knitting. For example, with a gun it will not be possible to tie the bars in the corners of the reinforcing frame. In addition, you can only slip the hook between the whips to tie the 2nd layer of the reinforcing frame.

Video - Knitting reinforcement with a gun

A few words about collars

For knitting reinforcing bars, as noted, you can use special clamps. They look like this.

Thus, one end of the clamp is free, and the latch is located on the second.

The procedure for using the clamp is as follows:

the product is brought under the reinforcing bars at the intersection;
the free end is pulled into the hole of the latch until it stops;
the position of the fastener is fixed, due to which the connection of the reinforcement is ensured.

There are many types of clamps available on the market. In combination with fittings, products made of polyamide 6.6 perform best. Such clamps “feel” normally in the temperature range of -40-+85 degrees, without bursting, cracking or spreading. A good collar should be elastic. You can check this parameter as follows: take the product and bend it in half. If a crack appears at the bend, do not use such a clamp.

Special pistols are available on sale to make the process of arranging clamps easier and faster.

Prices for cable ties (clamps)

cable ties

Video - Knitting reinforcement with clamps

Similar fasteners include metal clips (connectors) for connecting reinforcing bars into a single frame. One end of such a net is equipped with a hook, the other with a loop. The diameter of a steel clip is on average 2-4 mm. At the place where the reinforcement is connected, the hook and loop engages on the lower steel rod. The middle part of the latch presses the upper rod to the underlying one.

Knitting reinforcement with a paper clip
Clips for knitting reinforcement

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself knitting reinforcement for the foundation

From the author: Good day, my dear readers, who again faced the problem of low-quality buildings. The formation of cracks in walls and floors is no exception either for old forgotten Stalinist houses, or for newly purchased new buildings in European-style residential complexes. Noticing a crack in the wall, first of all you will think about what to do with it, after which you will puzzle over how to make a screed?

To tighten the walls when large cracks form in them is an adequate and correct solution, since this is considered a more rational and less costly way to stop the destruction of the entire building.

Can a crack break everything?

Of course, it can, if you do not attach importance to this right away. can be both harmless to integrity, and turn a dwelling into a heap of stone and dust, which can take not only a lot of valuable things, but also human lives.

You see, the crack formed in the wall (in most cases) is only the tip of a huge iceberg, which confidently moves towards the foundation, destroying it too. It makes no sense to explain how dangerous the split of the foundation is, since everyone knows what it will eventually lead to.

If you think correctly, then it is not a crack that leads to the foundation, but, on the contrary, it comes from it, since only a serious physical impact can start a split from the center and take it away in two or more directions. In another way, such an injury cannot form near the building.

You may encounter other reasons if your building was built of brick, which was laid out with gross errors. Often they appear as a result of cost savings on auxiliary materials that serve as the prevention of these diseases.

Why is all this happening at all?

There may be more than one reason, since a lot of factors affect the state of the foundation. Having identified the most important ones, we are ready to present them to you:

displacement of earthen rocks from seismic activity of the area. In the countries of the post-Soviet space, the phenomenon is quite rare, but, nevertheless, in some areas at the foot of the mountains, such cases take place. Even the Crimean mountains, not to mention the Caucasus, are no exception, from time to time making themselves felt by minor earthquakes. They are imperceptible to humans, but they can quite noticeably affect the foundations of buildings;
climatic conditions also do not stand aside. Let nature have no bad weather, but the foundation does not think so. From excessive moisture or, on the contrary, its lack, earth, clay, sand, or their synthesis can sag from time to time, thereby affecting the position of the foundation, lowering one of its parts, forming cracks that will force you to tighten the walls;
trees could grow near your house, the power of the roots of which easily breaks through the foundation. In my memory, next to my parents' house, literally three or four meters from the wall from the backyard, the previous owners planted a walnut. By the time we moved there, it was already a little more than a dozen meters in height, and its roots crept close to the building itself. After 3 years of our living there, a crack about three centimeters wide and more than two meters long opened on the outside, which was very elegantly hidden by the old owners who had gone far away with the help of putty and whitewash. The reason for this was precisely the ill-fated nut. The natural solution to this problem was to cut down a tree, which also entailed certain losses. The first is permission to cut down a tree, since it is impossible to engage in amateur activities in this matter. The second is a broken roof from falling branches, because it was insanely difficult to direct them in the right direction. And the third is a crack in the foundation, which later had to be reinforced with reinforcement;
initially wrong project or place of construction can also cause the formation of splits in the walls of the house. Minor cracks up to one millimeter wide are not normal, but acceptable for new buildings, so if you have one, do not be alarmed ahead of time. Almost all scientists and builders claim that it takes about five years for any building to sit normally on the surface of the earth due to its enormous weight. You should not ignore such moments at all. Any crack that forms must be monitored so that it does not begin to increase in size. If this happens, then this is a sign of incorrect construction, and you need to contact the developer for the necessary advice or even help. If you notice that cracks have appeared in your house, then you urgently need to contact specialists in this field, because only they can provide you with qualified support.

How to deal with cracks in the walls yourself

Any distortion in the foundation and therefore in the walls requires immediate repair. Many of us may be faced with the problem of insufficient funding and the search for a more budgetary and independent restoration of the integrity of your home.

Of course, there is a solution, and, purely theoretically, it will not require a huge amount of financial investment and physical strength from you, since pulling together a crack is a very real task for any person.

Yes, it is with the help of artificial that you can strengthen the foundation and prevent your house from splitting in half, as if the world had begun to divide into continents again.

What is a screed and what does it consist of

A screed is the only solution that will help you stop or completely cut off the likelihood of a complete destruction of the house. Why pause? You see, if the building was erected with errors in the construction itself or in an unsuitable place for this, then the process of destruction cannot be stopped. Whatever you do, you will only delay the outcome of the event. Naturally, this is if the problem is in the foundation. If you find that the wall itself was the cause of the split (it can be made of brick or wood), then everything will be a little easier.

If you have shown a desire to repair the resulting breakdown yourself, then you will need some skills, without which it will be tight:

in order to save a lot of money and not buy an already welded screed, you can limit yourself to buying fittings and electrodes, and then self-welding the required size of the reinforced mesh. So, the first is welding and the skills to use it.
fittings. Something without which you will not be able to make a screed either for the foundation of the house, or for its brick or wooden components. She will be exploited in many ways, but her presence is mandatory. Why? The fittings have the necessary ratio of size and strength in order for the structure itself to be as convenient, reliable and, if necessary, aesthetic as possible;
to strengthen the lower part of the base of the house, you will need a large amount of concrete mortar, the method of which I will describe a little later;
piles will come in handy when forming the area that needs to be poured with concrete. And then you will need to give it the desired shape. Don't skimp on them, as poor quality wood can break and force you to redo all the work. If you are not interested in the aesthetic beauty of the foundation, and you do not want to spend extra money on logs, think about how much money you will throw away on extra concrete mortar, which will certainly spread around the house for a distance of about half a meter.

Let's move on to the practical part of installing the screed on the base of the house

We read stories and theories, but how to do it all in practice - we will analyze now. The very first thing you will need to do is arm yourself with a shovel and, if possible, equip several of your friends or hired workers with them to speed up the process. Start digging in the ground where the split originates. Go deep to a depth of about half a meter. It is possible that more depth will be required, given that it depends on the height of the building, its number of storeys and the load that it creates. You can find out the depth of the foundation from the plan for building a house.

It is necessary to dig not only the place where the breakdown occurred, but also along the house at a distance of one and a half, and preferably two meters. This distance is also determined situationally and individually for each building. What is a big moat for? If you strengthen a small part, then the split will repeat much faster than you have time to cook dinner and raise a glass to a job well done.

The second stage will be the construction of a reinforced mesh. Reinforced mesh consists of rebar welded in such a way as to create a network with squares, the side of which can be at least ten centimeters. If you reduce this distance, then the mortar may simply split in two without fixing the required area.

An increase in this indicator leads to the fact that the reinforcement process in no way contributes to an increase in strength, but only creates the appearance of the work performed. If the financial issue does not play a big role, then it is better to make the grid double, that is, build it in two levels. This will require more concrete, but will give additional strength.

Little hack: it is quite possible that you do not have enough funds to purchase the required amount of screed fittings. If time does not allow you to wait, then you can replace it with an ordinary concrete pillar. Yes, it will not give the same level of durability, but it will serve as a temporary building quite confidently. And if we take into account that there is nothing more permanent than something temporary, then we get a great alternative.

Having built the grid, you need to firmly fix it on the foundation of the house. Drill holes and install mesh. You can take your time to close up the resulting cavities, because in the next step everything will become more clear. This concludes the third stage.

The fourth is the installation of piles. In some cases, they are not needed, but if you have done a serious digging to the house, then they will come in handy. Install the piles and wooden railings in order to proceed to the next step.

Fill everything with concrete. A very important point is precisely the fact that in no case should you fill the screed by manually filling the cavity between the mesh and the house. This process involves only pouring concrete mortar. Otherwise, all the work will be done in vain and the result will not show any. The building will continue to deform.

After you have done everything that we have indicated above, wait until the concrete hardens. This will take up to one week, depending on the climatic conditions of your area.

A crack in a building is not only unaesthetic, but also dangerous. After all, a crack on the outside is only a consequence, and the cause is deeper - these are cracks in the foundation itself, and this is a direct path to the accident rate of the house and its further destruction. Often there is no desire or opportunity to build a new building, so a way was devised to preserve an existing building - screeding the house with fittings. But before you start repairing, you need to understand all the nuances. Screed at home the price of work depends on their complexity and, of course, the cost of expensive materials. All this will help you calculate the builder who will perform this work. The screed of a private house with corners can be done independently, which will lead to significant savings. Buy in advance all the materials that require it, but also consider that certain skills are needed for the foundation that needs to be strengthened.

A screed at home with fittings must be done with a fairly serious knowledge of welding and calculation of the required diameter of the fittings. Its size is selected depending on the degree of destruction, the number of storeys of the house and its size. But experts also take into account the roof, its shape and coverage, the type of foundation, soil, and even the region of residence. The layman may not take into account all these nuances, and the price of a screed at home with fittings, which is not so great, is a serious matter and let professionals deal with it.

If the crack has gone in some small sections of the house, then it is advisable to lay them out again before the screed of the walls of the house with fittings is completed. Particularly loaded areas can be pulled together with thicker, reinforced reinforcement. For the implementation of the screed at home with fittings, not so many building materials are needed: the fittings themselves of the required diameter, studs corresponding to the size and section of the fittings, washers and nuts.

The technology for installing reinforcement is quite simple - stops for the bar are welded on the corners, the level should be different for each wall, this is done in order to avoid abutting the studs and nuts. The resulting corners are attached to the corners of the house, then studs are threaded into the stops, washers are put on them and nuts are screwed on. With the help of nuts, the screed is carried out at home.

When screeding the house with fittings, you should not immediately tighten the nuts too much, do it gradually, especially since periodically, about once every six months, the nuts must be re-tightened. The cost of a corner for a screed at home can be found on the Internet in order to navigate its ranges.

After the work was done, the final stage remained - priming and painting. House screed, the prices of which differ depending on the selected fittings, will in any case be an economical option for you. After all, cracked walls are much easier to repair than to rebuild. The cost of pulling together a cracked house will help determine the master that will work on its repair.

If the cracks are very large and deformation occurs in different directions, then the screed of the house with reinforcement will not be able to completely eliminate the defects, it is designed to reduce lateral forces, but in order to completely fix the house, it is necessary to strengthen and strengthen the foundation.

How much does a house screed cost?

Screed at home with fittings, the price of which depends on the professionalism and quality of the work of the performers. These repairs are a good and reliable solution for repairing small cracks and have been widely used in practice.
But do not forget that self-pulling at home requires serious knowledge in welding, so if this knowledge is not available, then it is better to trust a specialist to carry out all the planned repairs.

Every year, new types of construction work appear. For example,...

fittings

Reinforcement is a collection of interconnected particles and elements, which, together with a material such as concrete, in reinforced concrete structures are perceived as beams that stretch the stress. Reinforcement is also used to increase the strength of concrete in columns.

Consider the classification of types of reinforcement.

Depending on the purpose, fittings are:
- working (the section is assigned according to the calculation, the forces are perceived in the particles of the main load);
- structural (distribution fittings that perceive shrinkage/expansion, exposure temperature);
- assembly (set to combine the structural and working parts); - anchor (embedded parts).

Depending on the orientation in the design:
- transverse reinforcement, which actively prevents the formation of cracks from emerging stresses near the supports and connects concrete from the compressed zone to the tension zone with the reinforcement;
- longitudinal reinforcement, completely perceiving tensile stresses, preventing the formation of cracks in the stretched zones of the structure.

Depending on the conditions of use, fittings are:
- not strained;
- tense.

In prestressed prestressed concrete structures, prestressed reinforcement is exclusively operational.

There are five options for contacts between reinforcement and concrete:
- contact with concrete structures by friction;
- connection on shear bonds;
- adhesion (connection process when concreting a steel reinforcing element);
- interaction of cement mortar and steel reinforcement at the electrochemical level;
- compression of reinforcement with concrete after its shrinkage.

The wall of the house burst, the corner moved away, the foundation burst - a house screed is needed. If the screed is not done, then this will lead to serious consequences in the future.

You can entrust the screed at home to professionals, or you can do this type of work yourself. There is nothing military and impossible in this. This requires, first of all, a qualified welder, theoretical training and time for a thorough analysis.

The dimensions of rolled metal for the screed should be selected depending on the dimensions of the structure to be tightened, as well as depending on the degree of damage (cracks) that has occurred. So for a one-story building with dimensions of 6 × 6 meters and minor cracks, it will be enough to install 63 mm corners, reinforcement or a rod Ø 16 mm (a strip is also used). Accordingly, with an increase in dimensions, it is necessary to select a more durable rolled metal.

If your corner of the house has moved away significantly, then it may be necessary to disassemble it and lay it out again before performing the screed.

At problematic corners, you can put a more durable corner or simply strengthen the corner by welding another corner into it.

Also, studs, washers and nuts are needed to perform the work (sold both as a set and separately). The diameter of the stud must not be less than the diameter of the reinforcement. If you are using not reinforcement, but a rod, then you can save on the purchase of studs by cutting threads on the rod. The thread is cut with the help of a lerka (lerka, progoka - a tool for cutting external threads). The stud is overlap welded to the bar.

Next, we go directly to the work. On each metal corner we weld stops for the bar from below and from above. It can be a piece of pipe with an inner diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the rod. For one wall, the stops should be welded at the same height, for the other, a little higher or lower, so that the studs and nuts that extend beyond the corner do not rest against each other.

Further easier, we install the prepared metal corners on the corresponding corner of the house. We thread the studs into the stops. We put a washer on the studs on the reverse side of the stop and wind the nut (for several turns of thread). If necessary, the bars are welded together with an overlap of at least 7 cm.

After collecting all the metal structures, we will entrust the manufacture of metal structures to specialists from the METAKON company, we tighten the nuts from all sides. It should be understood that the house will not shrink at one time, therefore, you need to pull the nuts moderately. The nuts must be tightened once a quarter.

Then we prime and paint all the resulting beauty.

Even after screeding the house, the house can “walk”, as we have prevented only efforts directed to the sides. Although the corners and walls of the house may still move up and down. To eliminate this, it is necessary to strengthen and insulate the foundation of the house.

But do not immediately panic, because the situation can be saved. Initially, you will need to establish the reason why the crack occurred, and only then you can use a special screed at home.

The main cause of wall cracking is foundation shrinkage.

All the reasons that will be given in the table accelerate the formation of cracks in houses. The main factor by which such a flaw occurs is the drawdown of the foundation of the building. If certain circumstances are taken into account, then cracks can be avoided, and they will have a minimum size. So, the reasons and descriptions for them, for which damage appears, are given in the table:

Cause	Description	Problem Solving Methods
No bonding materials between bricks	This happens if another building or room is already attached to the finished house. As a rule, it is the extensions that begin to crack, as they begin to move away from the main building.	If the extension has moved away and no longer moves, you can repair the crack with putty. The second method of solving the problem is a screed at home. To do this, metal corners 10x10 cm are installed in the corners of the house, a rod is fixed between them and tightened with nuts.
Lack of bonding materials	If mistakes were made during construction and there is not enough mortar between the bricks, then after the foundation has set in the building or extension, a crack may occur.	A screed similar to that described above will help solve the problem.
Technological violation of brick laying	A crack can go along the seam of the mortar, while the brick will remain intact. In other words, the crack found a weakness in the building and began to appear.	Most likely, it will not be possible to solve such a problem and you can only close the crack with a mortar. The problem is that during construction, the brick was not wetted or placed on the mortar without pressing down, this all makes the hitch weak and fragile.
Appearance of a corner crack	As a rule, a problem arises in the corners of buildings if there is a lot of weight and a lot of force is exerted on the foundation. The problem lies in insufficient reinforcement of the corners or the lack of a bundle.	A screed or strengthening the foundation can solve the problem.

Having studied the main causes and features of damage, we can conclude that in such cases, the only solution would be to tighten the house. Of course, this method is not very aesthetic, but reliable.

Cracks in the finish of a building do not always indicate damage to the walls. You should make sure that the damage has affected the bearing materials.

Basic rules for screeding houses

Steel corners

Steel corners 10x10 cm - 4 pcs. 3 m.
Rods in diameter from 16 mm - 48 m.
Thick-walled pipe, the diameter is similar to rods - 1.5 meters long.
Threaded studs for rods - 16 pcs.
Nuts and washers - 16 pcs.

Threaded studs

For clarity, it is worth looking at the screed of the house from cracks in the walls in the photo. This will allow you to deal with the fasteners and the design as a whole:

After carrying out the work, the house can be ennobled with finishing materials, for example, siding, but leave access to the nuts to tighten them.

If the damage is small, then other means can be used. To do this, use the following tips:

In case of small damage, which does not exceed 5 mm in width, you can use ordinary putty.
If the damage is up to 1 cm, then you will need to use a solution based on sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 3.
For large and deep damage, it is recommended to seal the crack with foam, and then apply a cement-sand mortar.

The most common reason why cracks occur is the overload of the roofs of private houses, due to incorrect calculation of the snow load.

If it so happens that a crack has started along the load-bearing wall or foundation - this is not a sentence yet, it's just time to apply "global" (radical) measures to strengthen the entire structure. We will talk about the simplest and most popular methods for maintaining the integrity of a building in this article.

Note. The article uses conditional terminology.

When purchasing a ready-made house, the new owner in all cases is dealing with a pig in a poke. And it doesn't matter if it's a new building or a renovated old one. Builders build and repair cottages and private houses in a fantastically short time, which always affects their stability and durability. Regardless of the reasons for the appearance, a crack is a frequent and faithful companion of stone buildings and structures. We will talk about the most difficult cases of these unpleasant and dangerous defects - structural cracks, which serve as signals about the appearance of mobility of load-bearing elements. To stop the development of a crack, you should stop the movement and fix the elements, and then repair and "mask".

Note. A crack in the finish does not always mean the presence of defects in the wall material. You should verify that it is the carrier material that is damaged by removing part of the finish and exposing the defective area for observation.

Let's leave the theory and consider the three most common cases of the appearance of the mobility of elements: collapse, blockage and separation of the extension.

collapse

In the case of collapse, the walls and corners have a visual deviation from the vertical outwards, sometimes in waves. Walls can also be wave-like deformed or deviated by the entire plane. In most cases, this is accompanied by the appearance of cracks in the upper corners of door and window openings.

According to the degree of coverage, the collapse can be:

Complete. All load-bearing outer walls are deformed to varying degrees.
Incomplete (partial). Some walls are deformed.

In both cases, even if only one wall collapses, we recommend applying a preventive screed on all sides to prevent the development of movement on other walls.

Depending on the degree of collapse of the walls, measures of different depth of impact are used. We will conditionally divide the degree of collapse into three categories - light, medium and strong, and tell you what to apply in each of the cases.

Easy collapse

signs

The wall heads are noticeably deformed in the area up to 1/3 of the wall height (without the height of the foundation). Cracks at the corners of openings in 50% of cases. The remaining sections of the walls and foundation are normal (without cracks, deformations).

Cause

It arises due to the unreliability or absence of an armored belt, roof overload, during the construction of an attic floor on old walls.

Note. The most common mistake leading to roof overload is unaccounted for snow load.

Elimination Method

In this case, it is reasonable to use a steel mono-clip (hereinafter referred to as the clip) on the corner stops for wall screeding. In this case, as in all cases of using various clips, the rods will pass from the outside along the facade of the load-bearing walls, standing in the shape of a rectangle. Sometimes it is necessary to make technological openings for rods in the walls of extensions.

What you need:

Steel corner 100x100 mm (minimum 75x75) - 4 m.
Pipe 1 inch - 1 m.
Threaded stud 20 mm - 4 m.
Nuts and washers for studs.
A circle (steel bar) with a diameter of 20 mm or a strip of 40x4 mm - the length of the perimeter of the house.
Welding, painting.

Note. It is undesirable to use reinforcement for rods, because it is not designed for outdoor work and is subject to corrosion.

How to make a corner stop: on a steel corner 100x100 mm long, equal to the distance from the top of the wall to the top of the window openings plus 20%, pipe sections 150 mm long are welded.

The number of stops is equal to the number of corners (4).

Work order:

Rods (strips) are welded into two continuous lashes with a length along the walls of the house minus 200 mm (per tightening stroke).
Then, studs with a free end of 200 mm are welded at the ends of the lashes.
The pins are threaded into the tubes and the lashes are welded together in the middle.
The entire structure is assembled on the ground and fixed at the required height.
The nuts are tightened to a state of tension.

Attention! When using steel clips and ties, remember that they are designed to fix walls. An attempt to return the walls to their original state can result in breaches and sagging areas.

The design of the steel clip may vary. For example, in the case of wave-like deformations, a channel can be used as one, several or all four rods. Installation will be more difficult, but the entire load from the wall will be evenly distributed over the rigid channel.

Average camber

signs

All signs of light collapse extend to the level of 50% of the wall height (excluding the foundation). The probability of cracks in the corners and boundaries of openings is 80%.

Cause

Weak armored belt. Absence of a bunch of corners and masonry in the material of the walls, high wear of the material, overload.

Elimination Method

In these cases, a solid corner clip is used. It is arranged similarly to a mono-clip, but along the entire height of the wall and has more screed belts. With an average collapse, it is recommended to arrange three belts.

In all cases, the circle can be replaced with a 10x40 mm steel strip.

Attention! Welds must be of good quality (they hold the load). Overlap - 250 mm.

strong collapse

signs

All signs of medium and light, but at a level of more than 50%. In the vast majority of cases, it is accompanied by the appearance of deep, sometimes open, cracks along the walls and foundation.

Cause

Most often deformations of the base or foundation in combination with the causes of light and medium collapse. May be accompanied by partial destruction of the foundation.

Elimination Method

For repair, a solid corner clip and a retaining wall (support) or a retaining belt of the foundation are used.

Retaining wall or support - part of the reinforcement belt applied to the deformed area.

A retaining belt is a repair structural element designed to reinforce existing foundation walls along their entire length. It is used when it is necessary to strengthen the foundation. Material - reinforced concrete.

Support device. Consider the example of a corner section. A solid belt is arranged in a similar way.

First you need to determine the size of the backwater. If we had to resort to such drastic measures, it means that it is too late to calculate the load, especially since the existing foundation remains in place. Therefore, we simplify the calculations in the direction of increasing the margin of safety. The thickness of the backwater should be 50% of the thickness of the foundation wall, but not less than 400 mm. If possible, the bottom of the support and the foundation should be on the same level. The optimal ratio of the above-ground part to the underground is 1 third above ground, 2 thirds underground.

Attention! The reinforcing bars at the corners must be solid (curved at 90°). The minimum side of the corner support is equal to three thicknesses of the support.

Work order:

We dig out the damaged area and clean the trench. We clean the foundation wall from oils and organics, the remnants of waterproofing.
We drill holes with a diameter of 18 mm into the foundation wall to a depth of 200 mm in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 200 mm.
We drive in reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm and a length equal to the thickness of the backwater plus 200 mm (driven into the wall) minus 40 mm (protective layer).
We tie the working reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm to the pins with a knitting wire in increments of 200 mm.
We make U-shaped clamps from 10 mm reinforcement according to the dimensions of the beam frame (support) 600x360x600 mm (blank length 1600 mm) and install them in 200 mm increments.
We set the formwork to size.
We lay concrete (factory or prepared on site) with vibration.
After the concrete has set (3 days), we remove the formwork and apply waterproofing.
We produce backfilling of soil with tamping and spilling.

Support reinforcement: 1 - foundation; 2 - working L-shaped rods Ø 16 mm; 3 - formwork; 4 - U-shaped clamps Ø 10 mm; 5 - rods driven into the foundation, Ø 16 mm

The cost of the device 1 running. m of support 400 mm thick, 600 mm high in the production of concrete on site:

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Unit price, rub.	Total cost, rub.	Note
Armature 16	linear m	20	30	600	Wall pins and working rods
Armature 10	linear m	10	20	200	U-shaped clamps
knitting wire	kg	0,5	200	100	Binding of all frame elements
Concrete	cube m	0,25	1000	250
Waterproofing	sq. m	1	20	20
Formwork costs	sq. m	1	100	100	Self-tapping screws, nails, boards
Additional expenses	-	-	300	300	Disks, drill, etc.
total material				1570	Depends on local conditions and contract
Job				1000
Total material and work				2570

obstruction

The walls are piled into the building. It can be complete or partial (incomplete). In different degrees of deformation (light, medium, strong), one method of stopping is used.

Note. To repair the blockage, it will be necessary to carry out welding work indoors, which is most often associated with a major overhaul of the entire building. Take care of fire safety.

Full blockage

sign

Three or more walls (to varying degrees) are littered inside the building.

Cause

Weak armo-belt, wear of material, violation of technology during construction (weak mortar, lack of reinforcement of corners, etc.).

Elimination Method

Rigid spacer self-supporting steel cage (frame) on a through fastening.

What you need:

Perforator with drill 18-20 mm.
Channel 50x100-150 - length equal to the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced.
Steel plate 200x200x3-4 mm (up to 300x300).
Reinforcement 16 - 3 wall thicknesses per linear meter of the frame.
Good welding (tension), coloring.

Operating procedure:

Determine the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced. If necessary, we punch technological holes (for the channel) in the partitions.
We break each wall into steps close to 600-700 mm (but no more). We retreat ½ step from each corner.
We drill through holes 18-20 mm.
We weld reinforcement pins perpendicularly onto steel plates with a length equal to the wall thickness plus 100 mm.
We install the resulting anchors in the holes with the plate facing out.
Trying on the inside of each channel, mark it under the holes.
We burn holes in the channel for fittings by welding.
We paint the outer shelf of the channel with a primer (it will adhere to the wall).
We install the channel on the pins in the holes.
We weld the pins in the holes.
In the same way, we install the continuation of the channel.
When the entire perimeter is installed, we weld the channel to each other along the joint and make welded overlays from reinforcement 16 - 2 per joint with an overlap of 300 mm.
We strengthen the corners in any way possible (for welding).

An ideal option for such a clip is if it is then closed by a false ceiling. Then you can arrange diagonal traction. If a false ceiling is not expected, we close the bus with a box.

Attention! The plates on the outside and the fittings welded to them, passing inside the wall, are a strong cold bridge and it will destroy the wall with condensate. Be sure to insulate the plates, and preferably the entire wall.

Partial blockage

sign

One or two walls are littered.

Cause

The walls are located close to a busy roadway (with a tram). Rinse with atmospheric water.

Elimination Method

The device of a partial clip according to the principle of continuous. The side of the interrupted corner is equal to one third of the length of the littered wall, but not less than 1.5 meters.

The device of a partial inner cage: 1 - a wall with a blockage; 2 - fittings with a plate; 3 - channel 100x50x4 mm

With combined collapses / blockages (when the walls diverge in different directions), the internal frame (first of all) and the outer screed (secondarily) are used together. In severe cases, all amplification options are used at once or their combinations.

Calculation of the cost of 1 linear meter of the inner clip:

Annex branch

Let us consider the most complex and at the same time popular case - the combined one.

sign

Through crack along the inner corner or at the junction of the extension with the main building with a medium or strong collapse of the outer wall.

Cause

Lack of binding to the wall of the main building during the construction of the extension (in 90% of cases). Weak foundation under the extension walls. Overloading of the extension (superstructure, balcony).

Elimination Method

Combination of a through, semi-through or anchor cage and support:

Through clip - rods pass through the load-bearing wall and are fixed (nuts, welding) on a stop rail or plate located on the inside of the wall.
Semi-through clip - one side of the type is through, the second is fixed from the outside to the embedded part.
Anchor holder - rods are fixed to embedded parts arranged on anchors in the walls of the building.

Attachment screed options: 1 - semi-through; 2 - through; 3 - anchor; 4 - corners 100x100 mm; 5 - thrust (rod, plate); 6 - main walls; 7 - plate with anchor; 8 - plate 4 mm

You can arrange any of these types of clips using the instructions above.

Rules for the installation of anchor rods:

The thrust rail or plate located inside the building must not fall on the top of the doorway.
Install embedded parts in the walls at a distance of 1/3 of the length of the extension wall, set aside from the junction of the walls, but not less than 1.5 meters. Drill 3 points with a diameter of 12 mm, a depth of 2/3 of the wall thickness.
If the number of anchor rods is more than 2, place them with a 1 meter difference in length.
The walls of the main building should not have deformations and cracks.

The support can be either separate (under the outer wall), or along the entire length of the extension foundation. In this case, the reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the main building at an angle.

Most often, the types of deformations described above occur in houses made of marl or brick laid on clay. Even in the case of the initial stage of deformations (the appearance of small cracks), we recommend applying a prophylactic screed at home on the corner clips. Remember that any metal passing through the wall into the room is a cold bridge and will negatively affect the condition of the wall if it is not thermally insulated.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

Vasily Mironovich, Voronezh asks a question:

Good afternoon My parents recently bought a suburban area with a brick house on it. About 2 months after purchase, a large crack was discovered on the back of the house. Friends suggested that you can pull the crack on the walls. Tell me, please, how to pull off the walls of a brick house?

The expert answers:

Very often, owners of private houses, and especially brick ones, are faced with the problem of cracks on the walls. This happens due to shrinkage of the foundation, deformation of the soil structure, with a strong flow of groundwater or improper operation of the building.

The method of repairing the wall will depend on the cause that led to the appearance of cracks. The most difficult and difficult to repair a defect that arose as a result of poor-quality installation of the foundation. In this case, in addition to repairing the wall, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate foundation defects and only after that proceed with the removal of cracks. Otherwise, if you neglect the repair of the foundation, all other work will be meaningless.

Most often, cracks near the walls of a brick house appear above the openings of doors or windows. If they are small, then they can be filled with a special liquid fraction. This is done in such a way that it fills all the empty space. If this method did not help, then you need to strengthen the window and door lintels.

In the event that such measures did not help, you need to think about how to pull off the wall of a brick house. Such measures are used to eliminate large cracks. To eliminate the vertical gap in the brick, holes are drilled through, into which metal fasteners are then inserted. These fasteners are steel beams, which are pulled together with special studs. When the damage to the masonry is very significant, the wall opening should be completely disassembled and laid out again.

If the damage on the building is located in a horizontal position, in order to correctly eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to use metal plates. Such plates must be installed in the gap so that a seam connection is obtained. This will allow for a reliable strengthening of the structure of the house. This must be done, since such horizontal damage can lead to the fact that the wall is completely displaced.

When the damaged sections of the building have both a horizontal and a vertical direction, steel brackets must be used. Holes are punched in the wall for their fastening. And the final fastening is done with steel strips.

When repairing masonry, it should be remembered that the sooner a crack is detected, the more effectively it can be eliminated. This is due to the fact that the longer it is unattended, the larger it becomes. In the future, this will lead to the fact that the house cannot be repaired and it will completely collapse.