The garage refers to those types of outbuildings that, at first glance, can be made of absolutely any materials. In fact, this is not entirely correct: if you decide to build it from wood, you can be sure that the walls of the building will be breathable, will be able to pass moisture vapor, thereby neutralizing possible unpleasant odors, but keeping warm. Let's find out how to build a garage from a bar with your own hands.
Advantages of a timber garage
It turns out that it is very easy to make such a structure with your own hands: the building materials available today are already completely ready for use, they are treated with special compounds that eliminate the danger of rotting or catching fire, and also do not need additional adjustment. Of the unconditional advantages that distinguish timber construction, we separately highlight the following:
- environmentally friendly building material of the walls makes it possible to create a favorable microclimate inside the building. This point is of particular relevance if the garage space is also planned to be used as a home workshop (and this happens quite often);
- optimal humidity level. Wooden walls ensure the preservation of normal humidity in the room, preventing its increase, which means that your car is better stored;
- ease of construction. Wood is considered a material that can be processed well, respectively, with minimal building skills, you can independently build a garage from a bar with your own hands, without involving expensive outside specialists;
- attractive appearance. Such a building will ideally fit into the overall concept of your site.
The only controversial point that should be noted is the increased fire hazard of wooden buildings, which is why they should be regularly coated with special fire retardant compounds.
Construction stages
Like any wooden building, a timber garage requires the construction of a foundation. What it will be - slab, pile or tape - you decide on your own, the main thing is that the tree does not come into contact with the soil surface, otherwise your garage will begin to rot very soon. Ideally, the foundation should rise about 20 cm above ground level. In addition, a layer of waterproofing material must be laid between the top of the foundation and the lower bars of the garage walls.
As a rule, the walls are formed from a specially prepared beam, laying the elements in a log house. You can make it easier for yourself and order a completed log house, leaving behind only the assembly of the structure. In this case, the price increases quite a bit, and the scope of work is significantly reduced.
As for the floor, it can be made both wooden and concrete. If you stop at the second option, then take this into account even at the stage of laying the foundation: by choosing the option with slabs, you will simultaneously form the floor.
Roof options can be different: it can be single-pitched or gable. The way you organize the rafters will depend on which roof option you choose. Thinking about organizing additional insulation is worth it only if you plan to heat your future garage.
Construction technology
First of all, you need to build a foundation. With the slab option, everything is more or less clear, let's look at the option of a columnar foundation. First you need to determine the size of the building site, clean it from the top fertile soil layer and carefully level it. Next, we draw up the markup with the help of pegs and twine.
The column foundation must be installed in all corners and around the perimeter of the future garage, while the distance between the columns cannot exceed 2 m. They are erected from brick or concrete blocks on cement mortar, not forgetting to first form a special sand cushion. When the cement finally hardens, a layer of waterproofing is laid on top and everything is covered with a layer of roofing material. Now it's time to lay the embedded beam, into which the floor slabs are cut, made of a bar with a diameter of 4 cm.
The distance between the mortgages directly depends on the planned load on the floor in the future: when building a garage, it is better to lay the logs more densely, at a distance of no more than 1 m from each other. All subsequent rows of timber are stacked on top of each other, connecting them with each other using dowels. When the construction of the walls is completed, it is necessary to cut the truss frame into the upper crown, forming it, depending on the chosen roof shape. As soon as the roof is installed, it is better to immediately cover it with roofing, using any material you like - roofing material, corrugated board, slate, ondulin or tiles.
Pay special attention to the so-called "skates" - they need enhanced waterproofing. Now you can start working on the inside. If the option of a garage on a columnar foundation is chosen, you need to lay the floor. It is made from tongue-and-groove boards, fastened to mortgages with self-tapping screws. The floor, as well as the inner walls of a wooden garage, must be treated with a flame retardant to protect yourself from accidental fire.
Now we will form a gentle entrance to the garage: it is made of boards (60 mm) laid on a support beam, which is attached to the lower mortgage. It is important to properly maintain the angle of inclination of the entrance - it should not exceed 30 degrees. That's all, it remains only to install the gate. It is noteworthy that a timber garage is a fairly strong structure that can easily withstand the installation of both swing and lifting automatic gates.
Video "Building a garage from a bar"
From this video you will learn how to build a garage from a bar with your own hands.
Today, most owners of private houses try to store their cars, if they have any, in garages. This is absolutely understandable, because being in such a room, the car is less exposed to external natural factors and is protected from prying eyes, and therefore its condition does not deteriorate so rapidly as it is used. The garage can also be used as a pantry for storing some things or not too perishable products.
Peculiarities
A do-it-yourself wooden garage will be a good solution for a private house. The area where it will be located must be fenced, since such a building does not guarantee protection against thieves.
It should also be said about other disadvantages of a wooden garage:
- not too long service life;
- high fire hazard;
- the need to process building materials with special substances.
They also have many advantages:
- availability due to the low price of building materials;
- the possibility of self-construction;
- ease of installation work;
- environmental Safety;
- relative strength.
There are several types of garages made of wood. The most popular are buildings made of timber, which is the most durable and durable material.
But it is not easy to build a log house on your own, and its price is quite high.
At the same time, a timber garage is considered a reliable building, and outwardly it looks quite presentable.
Common options are garage buildings made of logs. They also have a great look. In this case, you can purchase ready-made building materials that are assembled according to the principle of a designer.
The third category are garages based on frame construction. It is on the frame that the main load will fall. But the main advantage is that any facing material can be used. If you wish, you can make a garage from a profiled sheet, and also from wooden boards or any other glued wooden material that is at hand.
Blueprints
Many people have problems with building a garage at the design stage. This is not surprising, since this process is the most complex. The fact is that its importance lies in the need to think through the design as much as possible, because the parameters of the building for 2 cars will differ significantly from the characteristics of the garage building for one car.
A standard garage usually has parameters of 6 by 4 meters.
Its height will be about three meters. But a 6x4 m garage is a standard indicator. It will not be possible to accommodate two cars in it, and there will be more than enough space for one. But it all depends on the characteristics of the car itself.
If you need to calculate the parameters yourself, then taking into account the dimensions of the car, you need to add 50 centimeters on the sides to open the doors, one meter from the trunk side and about 60 centimeters from the other side. The height is determined by the growth of the owner and an additional 1 meter is added to it.
Calculation of the amount of materials
After the person has decided on the size, a garage project is being made. It takes into account all the little things and nuances that you may encounter during the construction of such a structure. We are talking about such things as the placement of lighting fixtures, driveways, paths, how the gates will open, what category they will belong to, and many other important nuances. The project must necessarily reflect the type of building - whether it will be an extension to the house or an independent building. Depending on this, the amount of building materials needed will be different.
Another factor that affects this moment is the technology chosen for construction.
If we are talking about a frame model, then it is necessary to calculate how much profiled timber of different sections, insulation, OSB sheets, metal corners, self-tapping screws, wood and other materials will be required.
If the garage is built using log technology, then rounded logs and insulation are needed. You also need to think about what materials will be used for the roof.
Preparation
After all calculations have been completed and rechecked, a place should be prepared for future construction. To do this, markup is required. It can be done with pegs and twine. After that, the area is cleared of debris. If the site has slopes or elevation changes, then they should be raised so that the ground is flat.
Once this is done, the preparatory work begins. First you need to pour the foundation. The most popular are pile or column foundations. They are used for lightweight buildings and are poles or piles that are mounted around the perimeter of the future garage into the ground.
Piles are either filled or ready-made. If the second option is planned, wells are also needed.
Construction
The first stage, which determines the success of all further work, is the construction of the frame.
It consists of three elements:
- top harness;
- racks;
- bottom harness.
For the lower strapping, a bar with a section of 100x50 mm is used. Racks are made from a bar 150x150 mm, and ceilings and rafters are made from a mini-bar 100x50 mm.
The log garage floor is laid on the bottom trim, under which a layer of roofing material should be placed.
The embedded beam is fastened at the corners in one of two ways:
- on the plug-in spike;
- in the paw
It is worth remembering that the bond must be strong and reliable. After that, the so-called logs are inserted into the lower harness. This process is performed every 40-45 centimeters.
If the length of the lags is very large, then it is possible to install supports along the entire length, which are easily made from brick columns. This must be done so that the floor does not sag under the weight. Between them, the distance should be no more than 60 centimeters. They should also be covered with roofing material. By the way, all wooden elements, including bars and logs, should be pre-treated with an antiseptic.
After that, you can proceed to the construction of walls. Here the beam connection will be the same as used earlier.
Rows are fastened to each other with the help of so-called dowels - they are called wedges made of hard wood, which must be hammered into holes drilled in advance. The pins are sunk into the boards so that no cracks or holes form anywhere during drying. Cuts are also made in the upper crown for building bars.
As for the roof, its shape will depend on the design and size of the garage building. Usually it is either single-sided or double-sided. If the garage is adjacent to the house, then it is best to make a pitched roof. If it is a separate building located at a distance from the house, then the gable option will be the best choice.
After the roof is made, its crate is performed. A waterproofing layer of roofing material is laid across the crate, and only after that the roofing material is already laid.
Then you need to return to work on the floor.
It is best to make floors from tongue-and-groove boards, which are fixed on the logs.
It is worth fixing them on the logs with the help of self-tapping screws, or you can nail them with large nails, because the floor will have to withstand the weight of the car, and this, as a rule, is more than one ton.
When the floor is ready, it should be completely covered with a special fire-fighting compound., which will significantly increase the resistance of the tree to high temperatures. And to further secure the building, the floors can be covered with metal sheets. If it is not financially possible to cover the floors completely, then this should be done at least in places where there is the greatest likelihood of spilling flammable and flammable liquids.
Such a step-by-step instruction will easily allow you to create a garage quickly and relatively cheaply, and most importantly - on your own.
If the garage is adjacent to a two-story cottage, then it is best to make a staircase that would allow access from the garage to the house, and with certain types of house and garage construction, to the second floor. This approach is quite convenient, because it allows you not to leave the garage on the street, for example, in cold weather, but immediately get home.
- The question of building a garage arises for all motorists - owners of private houses, if the conditions of the site provide such an opportunity. True, it often happens that the construction of this necessary adjoining building is postponed “until better times” due to the apparent length and laboriousness of the process, as well as the high cost of building materials. However, there is a simple way out: you can build do-it-yourself frame garage, in just a few days and at the lowest cost - this will be the best option.
It is quite possible to build such a structure even independently. But the process will take much less time if, when planning the creation of a frame garage, you can find a skilled assistant with experience in the art of building, so that he is not only "always on the hook", but can also warn against mistakes and inaccuracies.
Benefits of frame construction
As you know, in recent years, the technology of building frame houses has become very widely practiced, which, with the use of high-quality materials, the correct installation of the frame and, perfectly replace cold stone walls. So, why not try to build a frame garage?
A reliable foundation and high-quality fastening of the frame elements will make such a garage no less practical and durable than brick or block buildings.
So, the advantages of the frame structure include the following points:
- Ease of installation and the ability to do the work yourself will save a lot of money, which, otherwise, will be spent on paying for the work of the construction team.
- The ability to build a garage in a short time is also a tangible savings in effort and money.
- The relatively affordable price for building materials necessary for work is depending on the specifics of the future garage.
- The small volume and weight of building materials will make it possible to do without the involvement of specialized equipment for construction work, and will reduce transportation costs.
- The construction of a frame garage can be carried out both from wood and from metal, at the choice of the car owner.
The main stages of work on the construction of a frame garage
If we talk about the procedure for performing the construction of a garage, then it differs little from the construction of a small house and includes several stages:
- Preparing a site for construction - clearing a construction site.
- Digging a pit.
- Foundation creation.
- Marking and assembling the frame of the walls.
- Creation of a roof structure.
- Wall insulation and cladding work.
- Installation of garage doors.
So, in order to understand each of the processes, they need to be considered in more detail.
Site preparation
This stage of work includes several measures that must be carried out with high quality, since the evenness of the foundation, and, as a result, the entire building will depend on them.
Having chosen a site for construction, its perimeter is marked out, and then well leveled. The site should be 500 ÷ 600 mm larger than the garage perimeter on each side - this distance is necessary for the blind area. The marked area must be cleared of the top fertile soil layer by 150÷200 mm. Such work can be carried out using special equipment or manually.
The second option, of course, will slow down the process, but it will help save a decent amount, since calling a technician is quite expensive. Manually, the soil is removed using two shovels - a bayonet and a shovel. With the help of a bayonet shovel, the boundary and depth of the soil layer for removal is outlined, with the same tools it is trimmed and crushed. After that, the soil can be easily removed with a shovel, at the same time carrying out planning - leveling.
After the site is cleared of the soil layer, the soil must be well compacted with a manual rammer or roller.
Foundation for frame structure
The next step in the prepared area is to make markings for the foundation of the garage. You can choose any foundation for the frame structure, since the building will not be excessively massive and will not give a large load to the base. True, it is also necessary to take into account the mass of the car, as well as all the internal equipment of the garage. Of the existing types of foundation, in this case, strip or slab foundations are preferable, but columnar or pile foundations are also used.
According to the selected dimensions, it is necessary to outline the corner points of the perimeter of the base under the walls. For all types of foundations, the corners are marked, in principle, in the same way, but their internal arrangement is already somewhat different from each other.
Work on marking the boundaries of the foundation is carried out in the following order:
- One of the corner points is outlined, in accordance with the binding to other objects on the site.
- At this point, marking cast-offs are installed - simple devices made of stakes and a crossbar board.
- The cords are stretched along one and the other side of the future foundation for the entire length of the wall and fixed on the cast-offs on the opposite side.
- Then, in the same way, the approximate location of the last corner is determined, which is also connected by cords to two adjacent corners.
- Now you need to achieve straightness of the corners. The crossbar of the cast-off makes it possible to move the fixation point of the cord on it within certain limits. To achieve exact perpendicularity of the sides, the rule of the "Egyptian triangle" is usually applied: sides that are multiples of 3, 4 and 5 will always create a right angle. Such a triangle can be laid out from long even rails, reinforcing bars, or even from a strong, non-stretching rope (cord).
Such a triangle should not be made too small - the probability of error is high. You can, for example, take "n" for 0.5, then the sides will be 1.5, 2 and 2.5 meters, which will be convenient and accurate.
- You can finally verify the correctness of the rectangle by measuring and comparing the diagonals - they must be the same length.
- If it will be equipped, then the internal platform for the foundation is additionally marked to determine the location of each of the supports - this process is carried out approximately as shown in the above illustration. At the intersection of stretched cords, pits for poles will be located.
- Column foundation in the arrangement seems much simpler than others, and it is quite possible to do it yourself without resorting to outside help. This design is often chosen if it is planned to lay a plank floor in the garage, which is most often mounted in a wooden frame garage.
The columnar foundation can be made in different ways and from various materials - it is reinforced concrete, brick, concrete blocks, or a combined version of the structure. But for a garage, it cannot be called a completely optimal solution. A powerful boardwalk is required so that it can withstand the considerable weight of the car, and the issue of equipment for entering the premises - the entrance ramp - is also acute. However, for a light frame structure, especially when the problem of construction time is acute, all these difficulties do not look excessive.
- great for placing a frame structure on it. In manufacturing, it is more complicated, it requires not only the installation of formwork, but also reinforcement in compliance with technological rules. Construction will take longer, taking into account the expectation of solidification and maturation of concrete, which means that the process of building a garage will drag on for a longer period.
However, the strip foundation has its advantages. There remain ample opportunities to create a viewing hole equipped according to all the rules. The floor of the garage can be made both wooden and concrete. When choosing a wooden flooring for logs under it, inside the strip foundation, you will have to make additional supports, in the form of concrete or brick pillars, or wooden beams treated with bituminous mastic dug in marked places.
Prices for bituminous mastic
bituminous mastic
- often considered (not quite rightly) the most difficult to arrange, since it will be necessary to create a system of compacted layers from various materials before pouring the slab itself.
This type of foundation turns out to be quite expensive in price, if we compare it in terms of the amount of material and labor intensity of work with the first two options. However, we must not forget that at the same time a ready-made reliable garage floor is being created, which is distinguished by enviable durability. Even if the frame structure is planned to be replaced with the main walls of the garage over time, then the slab foundation is perfect for this.
We will not pay more attention to foundation issues - a lot of information is contained on other pages of the site.
Self-construction of the foundation - how to do it right?
If there is no building experience in this area, then you must first "take a course." Details on how it is created - from calculations (there are built-in calculators) to practical implementation, are described in a special publication of our portal.
garage frame
The frame of the building can be made of timber, a metal profile, or these materials are combined with each other. The construction of the wall frame can be divided into several stages:
- Installation of the lower frame trim.
- Assembly and lifting of vertical frame structures of walls.
- Fastening the top harness.
- Sheathing, additionally strengthening the frame structure.
- Installation of the frame structure of the roof.
Installation of the frame structure is required to be carried out according to a pre-drawn drawing, on which all dimensions are affixed. It is best to prepare parts of the same size in advance and put them in separate piles, writing the parameters and the area of \u200b\u200bthe frame on them - this will significantly save time during assembly work.
Bottom trim
So, when assembling the frame, the first step is to lay a waterproofing material on the finished foundation. Most often, ruberoid is used for this purpose. This is necessary to preserve the wooden frame elements from direct exposure to moisture, and the metal ones from the appearance of corrosive processes. Such a “cut-off” does not allow moisture to spread capillarily from the foundation walls from the ground during the melting of snow or rains.
Further, on the surface of the foundation pillars, on a concrete tape or along the marked lines on a slab base along the perimeter, a wooden beam 120 × 120, 120 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm, a board 50 × 120 or 50 × 150 mm are laid and fixed. When mounting a metal frame, a steel channel or a profile pipe with a square section of 100 × 100 mm is used.
Wooden strapping elements may have different connections at the corners. The beam is most often fastened into half a tree.
When using boards laid in two layers, which form the thickness of the strapping, the shape of the joint can also be called half a tree, but it is formed using a "bandage" at the corners,
The wooden parts of the strapping are fixed with the help of anchor screws or on studs that are pre-embedded in the surface of the foundation.
Metal parts, both pipe and channel, are connected at the corners by welding.
If the strapping is installed on a columnar foundation, or on a strip foundation, but when it is further planned to lay a wooden floor in the garage, then inside the frame, the strappings are installed on the edge of the log board.
Logs are necessary not only to fix the floor boards - they will also make the lower part of the frame base more rigid and durable.
Installation of the wall frame
The wall frame can be assembled in two ways:
- Directly at the place of its installation, that is, each element of the frame is installed separately and fixed in a common vertical wall structure. This option is most often used in the assembly of wooden structures.
- The frame of each of the walls is assembled on the ground in a horizontal position and only then, in the assembled form, is exposed and fixed on the strapping vertically. This method is especially convenient when, for example, metal structures are assembled, additional devices are used - conductors that facilitate the precise execution of assembly and welding work.
The vertical and horizontal parts of the wall frame are usually made of a profile pipe or beam 60 × 60 mm, as well as boards 30 × 120 or 30 × 150 mm, depending on the selected parameters of the lower trim and on the planned thickness of the insulation.
Metal and wood can be combined quite well. So, for example, the bottom trim can be made of timber, and the frame for the walls is made only of a square pipe. The convenience of this approach lies in the ease of fixing metal racks on a wooden base.
Upper frame trim
The upper strapping of the structure must rigidly tie the frame of the walls into a single structure and give it strength. For the upper trim, a beam or pipe is used, which will correspond to the size of the wall frame elements.
cutting board prices
edged board
For example, if boards 120 mm wide were used as vertical posts, then the strapping can be made from a board of the same width, laid in two layers, or a bar, for example, 60 × 120 mm.
This illustration shows a variant of the upper trim, made of two layers of board, with a width and thickness equal to the parameters of the vertical racks of the structure.
Primary frame cladding
In order to immediately strengthen the frame of the walls, it should be sheathed from the outside or from the inside with sheet material (plywood, OSB sheets, corrugated board).
At this stage of work, it will be enough to fix the sheets only on one side of the frame walls, since the sheathing in this case is needed to strengthen the structure. The completion of this process is carried out after the roofing material has been fixed. If further warming of the building is planned from the inside, then the sheathing is done from the outside, but sometimes they do the opposite.
Frame garage floors
The roof of the garage can be single-pitched or double-pitched. The second design option is more complex, but it allows you to equip an attic or just an under-roof space for storing various tools and materials needed both for car repairs and in the household.
The arrangement of the roof consists of several stages of work:
- Production of a truss system for a single-pitched or double-pitched roof.
- Covering the roof slopes with plywood sheets or installing the necessary sparse crates.
- Flooring roofing material.
gable roof
garage floor
A wooden floor is best installed when the roof is covered and the walls are already sheathed. This way you can keep the boards from getting wet in case of unexpected rain. For the floor, a non-grooved board is most often used, since it is necessary to give the wood the opportunity to change its state under the influence of temperature and moisture.
A small temperature gap of 3 to 5 mm is left between the flooring boards - it will keep the wood from deformation.
The boards are fixed on the logs, and are most often fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.
If a slab foundation was used, then the floor is almost ready. True, it is recommended to immediately treat a flat concrete surface with a special deep penetration strengthening primer, which will fasten the upper layers of concrete, strengthen them, and give additional hydrophobic qualities. Such a floor can be painted, tiled or left as is.
In the same case, when a strip foundation is chosen for the garage, there is still a lot of work to be done to create a concrete screed.
How to concrete the floor in the garage?
A concrete floor for a garage is probably the best option in terms of strength and practicality. The nuances are covered in detail in a special publication of our portal.
Frame garage insulation
The heat-insulating material can be mounted in the frame structure from the outside or inside, depending on which side the primary wall cladding with sheet material has already been made from. In any case, the insulation must be located between the two layers of cladding.
Garage exterior cladding
Different materials are used for wall cladding from the outside, and the choice depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the garage owner.
The most popular of the finishes are metal or vinyl siding or siding panels, as well as corrugated wall sheets.
The corrugated board has a very affordable price, is easily mounted on the frame and perfectly protects the walls from moisture, mechanical loads and ultraviolet radiation. The sheets are relatively light in weight, so their installation can be done independently, not only on a frame made of profile pipes, but also on a wooden beam.
Garage Doors
On the frame structure of the garage, you can install gates of different designs - sectional, roller shutter, up-and-over and swing.
The simplest for self-manufacturing are double-leaf swing gates, and the rest of the structures, as a rule, are produced and installed by experienced craftsmen.
Swing gates are made of metal and (or) wood. To create a frame frame, a profile pipe or beam is used, which is sheathed with metal sheets, corrugated board, siding or just a board. Such gates are not difficult to manufacture if they are made according to exactly the dimensions taken from the opening. Such a design will cost inexpensively, and when it is insulated, it will become a reliable barrier to cold in the winter, which is extremely necessary if the owner of the building plans to equip it with a small heated workshop. The width of the gate is from 2.5 to 4 meters, but if they need to be made wider, then when drawing up a drawing of the future frame, this moment must be foreseen in advance.
In addition to the material for the frame and its sheathing, for the manufacture of the gate, you will need powerful hinged hinges for two wings, that is, 4 pieces, and for a door located in one of the halves and opening separately - 2 more pieces. To securely close the garage, a lock is purchased that is completely hidden behind the front door panel, and only a small hole remains for the key to enter.
Sheathed with sheet steel, they will be excessively massive for a frame garage, and they are not really needed for such a design.
It is easier to assemble wooden gates, or at least sheathe them with light corrugated board or siding, to match all the other walls of the garage.
Examples of building a frame garage - step by step
Insulated garage with gable roof
This version of a wooden frame garage has a completely “capital” and aesthetic appearance, so it will not spoil the landscape design of even the most equipped area.
| Illustration | Brief description of the work steps to be performed |
|---|---|
 | So, the first step, after cleaning the site from the fertile soil layer, is the marking of the territory, that is, the right angles of the garage perimeter are determined along with the blind area. As you can see in the illustration, special cast-offs made from the board are used for this purpose. Their installation is carried out according to the instructions above. |
 | Inside the fenced area, the location of the foundation pillars is marked. In this case, it is planned to install the pillars only along the perimeter of the garage, that is, only under the future walls of the structure. Along the long sides, in addition to the corners, two more supports are placed with equal pitch, along the short back - one in the center. An additional pillar is placed in place of the vertical posts of the future gate opening. So that the pits are not larger than necessary, and the formwork enters them freely, it is best to do the work manually, periodically trying on a box made of boards to the foundation pit. Laths are nailed on top of the box, so that a square hole remains in the center of the structure, into which a cement-asbestos pipe will later be installed. |
 | The depth of the pit depends on the structure of the soil, but it must be at least 500 mm. Crushed stone of medium fraction, 50 ÷ 70 mm thick, is poured into the finished pits, which should be well compacted. A wooden formwork box is installed on top of the rubble. |
 | The next step is to fill the formwork with a concrete mortar consisting of sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1. The solution must fill the entire internal space of the box, so it is distributed using a trowel or spatula with a width of 120 ÷ 150 mm. |
 | Having filled the formwork box, a pipe with a diameter of 150 ÷ 170 mm is installed in its central part. It can be made from different materials, but asbestos concrete is most often used, as it is resistant to external influences. Having installed the pipe in a plastic solution, they make a short pause for the concrete to set, and then the space around it is filled with gravel, which should also be compacted. The pipe should rise above the soil surface by 120÷150 mm. |
 | A pipe rigidly fixed in the pit is filled with concrete mortar, and when pouring it, it must be “bayoneted”, for example, by trimming reinforcement. This process is carried out so that all the air comes out of the mass, which can form voids that weaken the structure. |
 | Immediately after pouring the solution, long metal embedded elements are installed in the pipes, made of strips with a thickness of at least 5 mm, and the height must exceed the depth of the pipe by the thickness of the strapping beam. On the embedded strips, two holes are pre-drilled in height. The distance between the holes is calculated taking into account the cross section of the beam, since it is to them that it will be attached. Mortgage strips should be maximally shifted and turned in the pipe to the inner platform, which will be located under the garage. Further work is carried out only after the concrete has completely cured. |
 | This time can be put to good use. Completely the entire site, from which the top layer of soil has been removed, is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction. The embankment must be evenly distributed and compacted. Crushed stone should fill the entire thickness of the removed soil. Work on the distribution of crushed stone can be carried out using an ordinary hoe, and tamped with a manual rammer. |
 | The next step is to lay a waterproofing material - roofing material - on the prepared pillars in two layers. Slots are made in its segments, through which the roofing material is put on metal fastening loops protruding from the pillars. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the lower trim of the frame, consisting of a bar with a section of 170 × 150 mm. The beam is laid on poles and pressed against the loops embedded in them. |
 | At the corners, the strapping timber is connected into half a tree, but is not fastened rigidly until the diagonals are measured - their length should be the same. If necessary, the position is adjusted. The timber ends along the border of the garage door - there, for this, additional supports are provided. |
 | To fix the beam to the metal hinges, self-tapping screws 100 mm long and 10 mm in diameter, with turnkey heads, are used. You should not choose fasteners of a smaller diameter, as they must securely hold the base in a predetermined position throughout the entire service life. |
 | The next step, through the holes in the metal hinges in the beam, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled, into which, using a special hexagonal head, the fixing screws are screwed into the screwdriver until it stops. |
 | Further, on top of the strapping beam, a frame is assembled from a board 50 mm thick, connected at the corners also in half a tree. The frame is laid indented from the outer edge of the beam by 40÷50 mm and screwed with self-tapping screws 80 mm long. |
 | A one-piece frame is temporarily assembled, which will block the future gate opening - this is necessary so that the frame board is equally fixed in one line on both sides of the opening. Later, its excess part is sawn off. |
 | Next, the frame must be marked for the installation of vertical frame parts, which must be mounted with the same pitch, which can be 400 ÷ 500 mm. |
 | After the markup has been made, the corner posts of the frame are fixed to the bottom trim. They are first grabbed with long self-tapping screws of 100 mm, screwed in at an angle, and then fixed with metal perforated corners. |
 | Before fixing, all racks are set according to the building level. If it is planned to equip windows in the garage, then openings are formed and framed for them. The horizontal crossbars installed for them will add rigidity to the structure. |
 | Horizontal bars are also fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle. In some cases, in addition to the vertical posts, diagonal puffs are mounted. They will also give the structure strength and will not allow the frame to deform. |
 | After installing and fixing the racks, the top trim is installed, which consists of a beam or board laid in two layers. The upper trim must be strong, as it connects the vertical racks of the frame, and elements of the roof truss system are installed on it. Especially carefully you need to strengthen the opening for the gate and the frame of the wall around it. For this, the areas around the opening are sheathed with plywood sheets, and the opening is additionally framed with boards or timber. |
 | After completing work on the frame, they proceed to the assembly of elements (trusses) of the truss system. It is convenient to assemble them on a horizontal plane, that is, on the ground. To do this, the rafter legs are laid out at the right angle, and then fastened to the ceiling beam (puff). A rack (headstock) is installed between the ridge connection and the middle of the puff, which will add additional rigidity and strength to the structure. |
 | The joints of wooden parts are reinforced with perforated metal plates, fixed with self-tapping screws 40 ÷ 50 mm long. Thus, the required number of rafter pairs is assembled. |
 | The next step on the long sides of the upper harness is the marking of the location of the finished trusses of the truss system. Usually they are mounted in increments of 600 mm. Further, truss pairs are lifted onto the harness and laid out in an inverted state. |
 | Then they are mounted - the triangles are turned over in turn and installed on the upper harness, according to the markings. First, the gable structural elements are fixed and reinforced with additional racks, there may be five or seven of them, together with the central “headstock”. These elements will not only strengthen the structure, but also serve as a crate for the decorative sheathing of the pediment. Then, a cord is pulled between the two extreme triangles, along which it will be easy to navigate, exposing the rest of the rafter pairs. |
 | The truss trusses are fastened to the strapping using special wide metal corners with perforations. Through these holes, they are fixed to the puff bars and rafters, as well as the upper strapping. Corners must be installed on both sides of the installed rafters, since only in this case, they will be rigidly fixed. After fixing them in the lower part, it is worth fixing them among themselves and along the line of the ridge. |
 | When the roof structure is mounted, it is covered with a waterproofing film from the side of the garage, which is fixed to the ceiling beams with brackets and a stapler. The film is necessary if the ceiling is planned to be insulated. |
 | From below, the film is additionally fixed with lathing battens 20 mm thick, on which the garage ceiling sheathing will later be fixed. To fix the boards, self-tapping screws 40 ÷ 50 mm long are used. The mounting step of the rails is approximately 250 ÷ 300 mm. |
 | The next step is to lay insulation material on top of the film between the ceiling beams from the attic side - most often this is one of the types of mineral wool. The mats must fit snugly against the sides of the beams, otherwise much of the thermal insulation effect will be lost. |
 | A waterproof vapor-permeable membrane is mounted on top of the insulation, which will protect the thermal insulation from atmospheric moisture. The canvases are overlapped by 150 ÷ 170 mm and fastened together with moisture-resistant adhesive tape. |
 | The next step is that the slopes of the truss system are sheathed along the rafters with boards 10 mm thick or with plywood sheets (OSB). If boards are selected, then you should not waste time aligning them in advance, since the edges of the formed planes can be completely aligned after installation is completed, by walking along the intended even line with a manual circular. |
 | The result is neat roof slopes. For ventilation, a gap must be left on the ridge between the slopes, which, after the roofing material has been laid, will be closed by ridge elements. |
 | Further, plywood or boards on the roof slopes must be protected from atmospheric moisture, therefore, a bitumen-based waterproofing material is laid on their surface, starting from the eaves. Roll waterproofers can be self-adhesive, or they can be fixed with staples or nails. The material is overlapped by 120÷150 mm. |
 | The wall sheets are immediately marked for fixing the crate. If flexible tiles are used to cover the roof, then sheathing is not needed for it, since this type of material is fixed immediately to the waterproofing. |
 | For the convenience of carrying out work, rails are temporarily fixed on the laid canvas, on which you can lean with your foot. |
 | The next step on the slopes of the roof is the slats of the counter-lattice, the ridge board and the eaves rail. The size of the rails in the cross section is usually 50 × 15 mm, they are fixed to the slopes using self-tapping screws. |
 | In addition, at the same stage, the wall frame is sheathed in parallel with moisture-resistant and heat-resistant drywall or plywood (OSB). Horizontal slats are fixed on top of the skin, which are necessary for fixing the decorative wall decoration. In this embodiment, they are placed in increments of 600 mm, since this distance is optimal for fixing plank sheathing. After the fixing of the rails is completed, frames are installed in the window openings, if the garage project provides for natural lighting. |
 | Next, wind boards are installed. Their installation must be carried out so that they are higher than the surface of the slopes by the height of the wave of the roofing material, since they are designed to protect the gaps that inevitably form between the relief roofing and the waterproofing. In addition to these sections, wind boards are also fixed along the cornices. |
 | Then, the first layer of decorative wood paneling is stuffed onto the laths of the wall battens. The width of the boards is 130 ÷ 150 mm, the thickness is 10 ÷ 12 mm, they are fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be sunk into the wood. |
 | To equip the water drainage system, places are marked on the cornice boards for fixing the gutter brackets. |
 | The next step is the installation of the roofing, in this case, it is a rubber-composite slate with imitation of natural tiles. The size of a slate sheet with a thickness of 2÷3 mm can be 2000×900 or 1000×500 mm. Installation is made from the eaves, the coating is laid from left to right. |
 | After laying and fixing the roofing, it is covered on the ridge with ridge elements, which are also mounted with an overlap. |
 | Then, on the eaves, under the roof overhangs, a gutter is installed in the holders. A second layer of wood cladding is mounted on the walls. This layer is fixed on already fixed boards and covers the gaps between them. |
 | The walls inside the garage are insulated with mineral wool, which is placed between the frame posts. Mats should occupy all the space and fit snugly against wooden parts. |
 | The insulation material is tightened with a waterproofing material, which is used as a dense polyethylene film. It is fixed on the bars of the frame with staples using a stapler. |
 | Further, starting from the ceiling, all the internal surfaces of the garage are sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall. On top of this material, tiles can be laid, or it can be primed and painted with acrylic paints for facade work - at the request of the owners. |
Two issues that were not addressed in the description of the construction of this garage are its gates and the arrangement of the floor, and they need to be clarified.
In this case, the project provided for the installation of an up-and-over gate, the leaf of which, when opened, rises and goes under the garage ceiling. This structure is designed, manufactured and installed by specialists. Of course, another version of the gate can be installed on the opening, including one that can be made independently from metal or wood.
As for the floor, it can be either wooden or concrete. In addition, a viewing hole is almost always equipped in the garage.
Wooden frame garage without insulation with a shed roof
This simple garage design is perfect for building in a summer cottage, and it can be built by any motorist who knows how to work with a hammer, screwdriver and saw. In this case, all operations can be performed independently, without the involvement of outside help.
This version of the frame garage is installed on a columnar foundation, which is located around the entire perimeter of the building. The first stages of work are carried out in the same way as in the previous case considered, that is, marking the site, clearing it of sod, determining the location of the pillars, digging pits and installing foundation supports. True, a plank floor is provided, that is, the number of pillars is increasing - it is necessary to provide intermediate ax points for the log.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | A beam of the lower strapping of the structure is laid on the foundation pillars. In this case, a bar with a section of 150 × 120 mm is taken. Then the diagonals of the resulting frame are measured, and the frame is finally fixed. The next step on the intermediate pillars of the foundation are installed on the edge of the board with a section of 150 × 50 mm, which are attached to the strapping beam using special supporting perforated metal brackets. Boards will serve as a reliable basis for the installation of a wooden floor. |
 | The next step is the installation of the front corner vertical posts from a bar with a section of 150 × 120 mm. They must have a height of at least 2500 mm. |
 | Next, an opening is marked in which the garage door will be installed. According to the marking, two more beams are mounted at a distance of 2700 mm from each other. That is, 1350 mm is deposited from the center of the strapping beam in both directions - at these points the edges of the vertical posts will be located, limiting the doorway on the sides. |
 | The next step is to form the basis of the frame of the rear wall. It also consists of four posts spaced at equal intervals, made of timber of the same section, but having a height of 2300 mm. Due to the difference in the height of the front and rear walls, the necessary slope of the pitched roof is formed. |
 | The fastening of all vertical bars to the strapping is carried out using powerful metal corners that fix the racks on both sides. |
 | As you can see in the illustration, the top harness in this design is different from the project discussed above. Here, the front and rear racks are separately connected with a horizontal beam, forming the basis for mounting the rafter legs. Before installing the rafters, their location is marked - in this case, the distance between them is 400 mm. For overlapping, ten boards with a length of 5500 with a section of 120 × 30 ÷ 50 mm are required. They are installed on the edge and fixed with metal corners. |
 | Further, the middle of the sides of the garage is measured and marked. In these places, vertical racks are installed, which are interconnected by a horizontal crossbar, which should firmly support the rafter legs from below. The rafters are also attached to this crossbar with the help of metal corners. |
 | In the next step, the side posts are connected in the middle part with boards, which can be fixed on the posts with corners or one of the joints used to fasten the timber. As a result, the frame of the side wall is, as it were, divided into four sections. |
 | To make the frame more rigid, each of the four sections is reinforced with a diagonal puff, on which cuts are made along the edges. In the upper part, the board is installed in a groove cut in a vertical rack. |
 | The lower side of the diagonal tie is installed and fixed in the corner between the horizontal jumper and the vertical middle post of the frame. |
 | The result is a crate that resembles the division into sections of the flag of Great Britain. It should be noted that the frame can be quite simplified by fixing several less massive ones between the main racks. This becomes possible due to the fact that the construction of the garage roof is quite light, and the wall cladding is made of thin boards. |
 | Further, 20 mm thick sheathing boards are laid across the rafters. They are fixed at a distance of 50 mm from each other. If flexible bituminous tiles are used for coating, then the distance is reduced to 3 mm, and it is necessary for the possible expansion of wood, which can occur with high humidity. Instead of boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is also laid on the rafters. |
 | This illustration shows well what the shed roof construction of a frame garage is. |
 | Having finished the installation of the plank crate, from the front side of the garage, the ends of the floor beams are covered with a wind board, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. Their hats must be sunk into the wood. |
 | The next step is to mount the roofing material on the crate. As it can be used corrugated board or slate familiar to all. Of course, if financial possibilities allow, then other, more expensive materials are also used for coating. |
 | If the garage is covered with whole sheets of corrugated board, then it is laid from right to left, overlapping in two waves, since the slope of the slope is small. When using slate for the roof, which will be mounted in two or three rows, its installation is carried out starting from the cornice, and also from left to right. |
 | After covering the roof, you can proceed to the flooring of the wooden floor. For it, a board with a width of 150 and a thickness of 40 mm is used. Between the boards, it is imperative to leave a gap of 3 ÷ 4 mm, which will keep the floor even and will not allow the boards to deform from temperature changes, changes in air humidity, direct water ingress, for example, when putting a car in a garage in rainy weather. |
 | The garage frame ready for sheathing should look something like the one shown in the illustration. |
 | The frame of the walls is sheathed with a board installed in two layers. For the first of them, which will hardly be visible from the outside, an unedged board with a thickness of 100 ÷ 120 mm and different widths can be used. |
 | The outer layer should still have a more aesthetic appearance, so it is best to use a planed, antiseptic-treated board, siding or metal profiled sheet for it. The unedged board of the first layer is mounted with gaps of 80 ÷ 100 mm, and for the outer skin, the boards are already installed with a gap of 2 ÷ 3 mm. Moreover, these gaps should fall on the boards of the first layer so that through cracks do not form. |
 | Then the upper area above the gate opening is sheathed. To do this, you need to decide on the height - it should be such that not only the car drives into the garage without hindrance, but also its owner freely enters, without the risk of hitting his head through inattention. So, if the height of the facade wall of the garage is 2500 mm, then the opening can be, say, 2200 mm. And from this it follows that its upper limit drops by 300 mm. |
 | So, at a height of 2200 mm from the floor, grooves are cut in the vertical racks, into which the edges of the horizontal beam are inserted from the timber. A bar with a section of 50 × 50 mm must enter the grooves by at least 50 mm. Then, first a layer of unedged boards, and then a decorative sheathing, is fixed to the upper bar of the pediment overlap and the fixed crossbar from the outside. |
 | The finished opening is carefully measured, and in this case every millimeter must be taken into account. According to the measurements taken, taking into account the gaps of 5 mm on the hinges, gate shields are made from a board 20 mm thick. It should be noted that if the doors are planned to be additionally sheathed from the inside with a second plank or plywood layer, then a board for assembling shields can be taken with a thickness of 12 ÷ 15 mm. To lay the boards correctly, that is, evenly and with the preservation of temperature gaps, you need a rigid and absolutely flat surface. To do this, you can use plywood sheets laid out on a flat area of the yard. To make the gate look neat, it is best to use boards that have the same width of 100 ÷ 120 mm. The shield is fastened with crossbars installed in the upper and lower parts of the sashes, indented from their edge by 150 mm. For rigidity and maintaining the stability of the shield, a diagonal board is fixed between the horizontal jumpers. For additional rigidity, the jumpers and the diagonal board are interconnected by metal corners. |
 | The finished sash is turned over, and the location of massive hinges is marked on it, which are screwed through horizontal bars installed on the inside of the sashes with bolts with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. |
 | Further, the sashes are placed in turn in the gate opening, on the sides of which the attachment points of the hinges are marked in place. When closing the wings, a small gap of 3 ÷ 5 mm should remain between them, since they should not touch each other. |
 | The hinges are screwed through the sheathing boards into the frame racks using massive self-tapping screws or using bolts, under which through holes are drilled. When measuring the location and fastening of the gate hinges, it is necessary to control the free opening and closing of the leaves. If it turns out that the gate leaves are rubbing against the sheathing boards in some areas, then these areas must be corrected with a planer. |
 | To equip an exit ramp for a car along the edges of the gate width, powerful bars are installed on the edges of the foundation pillars and fixed to the lower trim of the structure, having a cross section of 250 × 180 mm. The bars used for this purpose must be well impregnated with bitumen, thanks to which they will acquire the necessary hydrophobicity and resistance to decay. If it is possible to purchase impregnated wooden sleepers, it is best to use them - they are ideal for installing support beams for the entrance ramp, as they are designed for heavy loads and are protected from moisture penetration. |
 | There may be two or three such guides. The front ends are recessed into the ground, only the upper part of the timber is left on the surface. |
 | A board 40 mm thick and no more than 100 mm wide is nailed or screwed onto the fixed beams. It is recommended to choose a board that does not have large knots, as well as a large number of small and medium ones, since these defects weaken the wood, and the ramp can quickly crack under the load from the car. |
 | Upon completion of the work, the finished garage, which has the simplest design and is built from available materials, may look like the one shown in the illustration. If the building is sheathed with other facing facade material, then it can acquire a more respectable look. In addition, nothing prevents internal insulation and finishing, which will allow the garage to be used in winter, for example, as a workshop. It will be enough to install heaters-convectors indoors and organize good lighting. |
 | If over time there is a desire to make an inspection hole in this garage, this will be done quite simply. Marking is made on the wooden flooring and a rectangle is cut along it, which will correspond to the perimeter of the future pit. Then a foundation pit is dug, its walls are strengthened and equipped. The only thing that needs to be foreseen in advance, even when building a garage, is the location of the foundation pillars. It is necessary to plan so that there are no supports in the central part of the floor. This will not affect the strength of the flooring in any way, since the main load falls on the area where the wheels of the car will be located. |
No motorist will refuse a viewing hole
The garage, probably, will not become full-fledged if it does not have a viewing hole. And if the conditions make it possible to equip it, then this should not be neglected. Step-by-step instructions for in an already finished garage - in a special publication of our portal.
So, it is quite obvious that if you wish and have basic building skills, it is quite a solvable task to independently build a frame garage on the territory of a summer cottage or next to a private house. The advantage of such a building can be called the relative ease of assembly, and the possibility of using high-quality facing materials will make such a garage outwardly indistinguishable from the capital one.
At the end of the publication, another example of the construction of a frame garage.
Video: the work of masters in the construction of a frame garage
The work plan is the following.
- General provisions, foundation.
- Lumber layout for a garage measuring 6x4 m with a pitched roof.
- The bottom trim of the garage frame.
- Installation of vertical racks (100x100x2685 and 100x100x1900) and cross beams.
- Final frame assembly.
- Wall cladding.
- Swing gate installation.
According to the type of construction, wooden garages can be divided into solid and frame ones, according to materials - into garages from CBM and garages from timber and boards. A columnar foundation in the form of monolithic concrete pillars, pile, screw or prefabricated pillars made of reinforced concrete blocks is quite suitable for a frame garage made of timber. The need to build a more solid foundation may be due to moving, weak soils, high soil moisture, the proximity of groundwater, and large elevation changes at the construction site. The frame consists of a base (lower) trim, support posts, struts and upper trim. Strengthening the rigidity of the lower rims is made by strips attached to the inside of the strapping. The connection of vertical racks with the upper trim is made with special spikes or anchors / staples / nails.
Number of lumber
To build a 6x4 meter garage according to the drawing shown in the figure below, you will need: 100x100x6000 timber for the frame - 1.08 cubic meters or 18 pieces. Beam 100x150x6000 for the gate / door and basement trim - 0.63 cubic meters or 7 pieces. Board 25x100x3000 for the crate and sheathing - 1.5 cubic meters or about 200 pieces. Board 50x150x6000 for rafters, floors, gate / door frame - 2.03 cubic meters or 45 pieces.
Garage bottom frame
The lower rims of the building are made of a bar with a section of 100x150 connected “to the paw”, impregnated with used machine oil. It is possible to process the lower edges of the crowns at the frame assembly stage, and postpone the impregnation of the remaining sides until the flooring. You can additionally strengthen the connections of the plinth rims with each other with a steel corner or brackets.
Installation of vertical racks and cross beams of the frame
Having finished with the lower trim, you can proceed to the vertical racks from the timber 100x100x6000. They, according to our drawing, will have a height of 2685 mm on the high side of the frame and 1900 mm on the low side.
After installing the racks, we connect the opposite sides of the frame (high and low) with transverse beams. Racks for garage doors with wings 1700x2500 and under the door - timber 100x150. Fastening racks with bottom trim and cross beam - connection type "
A garage is a non-residential building that can be built from any material. However, not every material is environmentally friendly. If your garage will be built in a country house or a plot next to a residential building, it is better to give preference to environmentally friendly structures, for example, from a bar. When building a garage from timber, you choose modern and safe technologies, because innovative impregnations eliminate the risk of fire.
The beam has a lot of advantages, while there are certain features of this building material. Therefore, before we talk about how to build a garage from a bar on our own, we will analyze the pros and cons of such a building.
The beam has the following advantages:
- The walls from it breathe, passing steam, neutralizing the smell.
- The material creates a favorable microclimate, which is important when using the garage as a workshop.
- In a timber garage, there is practically no high humidity, since the tree absorbs excess water like a sponge. And this will have a positive effect on the preservation of the metal parts of the car.
- The tree is beautiful on its own. Therefore, a wooden garage is likely to fit into the design of a country house plot made in any style.
The tree also has a drawback: flammability. Some car owners believe that in combination with oils and gasoline vapors, a wooden garage can be unsafe. However, modern technologies, innovative lumber impregnations help to reduce to zero the likelihood of a fire in the garage due to the ignition of wooden walls. The only thing is that these walls must be regularly treated with a fire-retardant solution even after the construction of the garage.
Also on the Internet there are different opinions about the thermal insulation properties of a timber garage. In general, wooden houses do not need additional insulation. However, car owners who have already built garages with workshops using this technology note that the walls do not hold heat very well. They need to be further insulated.
Selection and purchase of timber for the garage
When choosing a beam, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:
- how dry the selected material is, whether it needs additional drying;
- are there any places of damage to the material: cracking, fungus damage, etc.
If there is money, it is better to choose not a simple, but a profiled beam. Its advantages over conventional rectangular or square timber are that it:
- has various notches and spikes that provide a tighter fit of the bars;
- sawn to the specified dimensions, which also helps in thermal insulation, preventing displacement of seams and drops in crowns;
- has good external characteristics: you do not need to spend money on wood processing and additional finishing;
- gives a more uniform shrinkage of the garage compared to a simple bar.
The only drawback of profiled timber is a rather high price; not every car owner can pay the cost of this type of material. The price per cube of profiled timber of natural moisture varies from 7800 to 9000 rubles, depending on the region of our country and the brand of the company.
Stages of building a wooden garage
Despite the fact that you have chosen a profiled or ordinary timber, the stages of building a wooden garage will be approximately the same.
- First you need a foundation for the garage. It can be either slab or pile or tape, depending on the purpose of your garage. If you are going to use the room often, it is better to give preference to the stove. The main requirement for the foundation is different: it must rise above the soil surface by at least 20-25 cm. This will allow the tree not to come into contact with the soil. And won't let it rot.
- Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid between the foundation and the timber.
- Walls are erected, they are laid in a log house. How to do this is described below. In principle, you can order a ready-made log house in your area in order to assemble the garage yourself. It will be a little more expensive, but faster.
- If a slab is installed as a foundation, you can not cover the floor with a board. If the foundation is columnar, you will have to make the floor out of wood.
- The rafter system and the roof are laid. For wooden garages, it can be single-sided, with a slope to the side and back. Often the roof is made gable.
- Garage gates are selected: swing or lifting.
- Further, the garage can be insulated, if you are going to heat in the winter, organize a workshop. Most often, car owners opt for insulation from the outside, which is closed with a ventilated facade made of corrugated board or siding.
Building a garage from a bar with your own hands
Now let's take a look at these steps in more detail. Our example is the construction of a garage from a bar on a columnar foundation with a wooden floor.
Foundation
Before erecting the foundation, it is necessary to determine the site, measure the required dimensions and remove part of the soil. Level the garage area. Then, with the help of twine and pegs, it is necessary to mark the installation sites of all foundation pillars.
Pillars are placed at the corners of the garage, as well as along each wall and in the middle. For a standard garage, you will need four poles in the corners, as well as two poles along the long walls, one each along the short ones, two in the middle.
In the place where the columnar foundation will be, a sand cushion is poured at least 25 cm thick. If the soil is heaving, then all 40 cm. The sand is poured with water, rammed, roofing material is laid on it.
Then pillars of bricks or blocks are placed, they are connected with a cement mortar. The desired size is determined using the same string stretched for marking. Bituminous mastic for waterproofing is passed along the pillars, two layers of roofing material are laid.
Walls
After everything dries out, the foundation will finally harden, the lower beam is laid on the pillars, it is called a mortgage. If you purchased a building ready for assembly, the log cabins are already fitted. If the timber is ordinary, then you will have to study suitable connection methods. For example, it is believed that it is suitable for a small structure of the connection "in half a tree", "in a paw" and others. The most popular timber connections are in the picture.
After installing the mortgage beam, the lower strapping, it is necessary to cut in the floors of the future garage floor. They are made using a bar or board measuring 40 mm, which is laid on the end. For a garage, it is necessary to choose the minimum possible distance between the lags, that is, half a meter. In the process of tie-in, the tree must be soaked with an antiseptic liquid.
Then new rows of timber are laid using the same connection as selected for the bottom trim. Rows of timber are connected with a special wedge, dowel. To do this, both beams are drilled until the holes match, a hardwood wedge is hammered into them. It is required to follow the rule for installing dowels - the wedge must be driven deep into the timber, recessed by a couple of centimeters, otherwise cracks may form during the drying of the tree.
Roof
When the walls are erected, they proceed to the construction of the stacks for the roof of the garage. Ceiling beams are installed first. Then a template for the rafters is made. To do this, a beam of 50 by 100 mm is applied to the end of the frame, cut lines are marked. Two centimeters should be set aside from the point of contact with the edge of the strapping. A horizontal line is drawn that marks the cut.
The rafter legs are cut into the upper crown; a “half-tree” connection is usually used. For reliability, the rafters are fixed with corners. Then a crate is installed from the board, its step is selected based on the type of roofing.
The waterproofing of the roof will be polyethylene, which is laid on the crate and fixed with a stapler. If there were not enough funds for a normal roof, you can use a waterproofing film of the Izospan D type for some time in the summer, then polyethylene can not be fixed.
The selected coating is placed on the waterproofing layer. For a garage, you can choose inexpensive slate, corrugated board, but a wooden building with a roof made of tiles or ondulin looks more beautiful. The roof is laid as stated in the instructions for the material.
When installing, you should pay attention to the most vulnerable places: the ridge and the connection of the roof to the walls. Here the tree can rot, so it is advisable to walk on them with impregnation.
floors
What floors in a garage made of timber on a pile foundation are better? The most practical choice (in terms of price, appearance and quality) is a tongue-and-groove wood floor. It is built by fixing the boards on the logs with self-tapping screws or nails. The floor must be painted, covered with a primer. If you are doing repairs in the garage, and combustible substances can get on the floor, it is better to put metal sheets in the parking lot of the car.
Entrance and gate
The entrance to the wooden garage is also made of 60 mm floorboards, which are placed on the support beam. This beam is cut into the lower mortgage at a slight angle (about 20-30 degrees), from below everything is impregnated with bituminous mastic. The boards are nailed across to the timber.
Simultaneously with the installation of the entrance, garage doors are selected and installed. Since a wooden garage looks modern, new automatic lifts are most often chosen. However, if you do not have sufficient funds for them, you can purchase swing. Timber is a durable building material, the walls will withstand any type of gate.
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