Swede oven - very efficient and practical, which it is quite possible to build with your own hands a home master who has not previously been involved in furnace work. If we take into account that bitter frost does not always happen in winter, then in terms of efficiency, on average for the heating season, the Swedish stove is slightly inferior, but it is more compact and heats up quickly.

By its design, a Swedish oven with a stove is designed to be placed in the wall between the kitchen and the common living room, as in traditional Scandinavian dwellings, or between the kitchen and living room, in more modern and richer houses. The kitchen warms up well and quickly for the cooking period, but the heat stored in the oven is mostly gradually transferred to the adjacent room. There you can attach to the stove, depending on the taste and prosperity of the owners, a stove bench or a fireplace.

A modern Swedish stove can also be “weighty, rough, visible”, as in the first left pos. pattern, and a decorative crumb squeezed into a corner (next pos.), And decorated with antique tiles (third pos. from the left), and super modern made of titanium alloys and talcomagnesite, fitting into the modern, high-tech or fusion interior, as in the last pos. These are very expensive, they are delivered ready-made, they are simply put into place, like a cabinet.

How did such a wonderful oven come about? Probably for centuries. Not at all.

A bit of history

According to a popular legend, the Swedish oven was brought to Russia under Peter the Great by captive Swedes, but this is nothing more than a myth. The highly efficient heating and cooking stove, now known as the "Swede", was developed in 1767, when Sweden, in the words of the Swedish historian, "finally left the stage of world history and modestly took its place in the auditorium."

History note: in 1788, Gustav III, imagining himself the second Charles XII, took and started a war with Russia, which at the court of Catherine was rather taken with surprise. In 1790, Russian troops, just shrugging their shoulders and looking at each other in bewilderment, took Stockholm without much difficulty and heavy losses, crossing the Baltic ice, after which the troublemaker monarch willy-nilly had to calm down.

The task for the development was given to the Swedish Academy of Sciences by King Adolf Frederick Holstein-Gottorp. The reasons are the most prosaic: the lack of fuel (secular dense forests have long been reduced) and the harsh climate in which the widespread by that time could not cope with heating. And the shortage of building space; land suitable for economic use in Scandinavia has always been scarce. Academicians F. Werd and K. I. Konstedt supervised the work.

I must say that the Swedish scientists showed themselves in full splendor, since mathematics by that time was quite highly developed. Fine-looking people in wigs, caftans, stockings and shoes with goose feather buckles deduced formulas that even today's supercomputers, figuratively speaking, burst the chips from effort. The Swedish stove was a success.

The Swedish scientists, simply speaking, did not bother with the idea: they stretched the over-furnace part of the well-proven Dutch woman to the sides, and they put it in the oven of a simple stove. But for the bare idea to work, you need an accurate calculation of dimensions, proportions, strength, thermal parameters, the choice of materials and much more. The Swedish team coped with the task with 5+. Let's see what they got.

What do you need from a Swede?

The original Swedish oven (see fig.) is of a combined design. The starting point for the TOR for the furnace was the specific local conditions.

Firstly, in Sweden, truly Siberian frosts are combined with high humidity: the Baltic and Atlantic with the Gulf Stream at your side. Secondly, the already mentioned shortage of fuel and space. Thirdly, in Sweden, on whose territory a glacier lay almost until historical times, there was plenty of fireclay (heat-resistant) clay of the highest quality.

Note: chamotte clay is not chamotte refractory, but only a raw material for its production. Also, fireclay bricks do not consist entirely of fireclay. In common parlance, chamotte clay, bricks and masonry from them are called chamotte for short. Swedish chamotte clays are the finest aluminosilicate deposits left by a retreating glacier. There is also corundum and zircon chamotte, especially durable, heat-resistant and very expensive.

And most importantly - the way of life of ordinary descendants of the Vikings. Boulders, swamps, little arable land, a harsh climate: it is simply impossible to survive until spring without help. In winter, the Swedes could not afford to rest on the stove, but the fishing grounds were intercepted by Norway and Denmark; The Baltic is not very abundant in this regard, and freezes in winter. Therefore, they were engaged in hunting, logging, prospecting - Fennoscandia is rich in valuable minerals. Opals are still found in the tundras of Finnish Lapland.

As a result, the owner with his adult sons dragged home after work more like fresh hummocks than warm-blooded ones. In order not to get sick, it was necessary to immediately warm up and dry the soaked, even squeeze, clothes by tomorrow. And it was impossible to kindle the stove ahead of time: there would not be enough fuel until spring. The Swedish academicians proceeded from this.

How does a Swedish work?

Oven-time

A diagram of a classic Swedish oven is shown in the figure. Its first highlight is a large oven (1), designed not only and not so much for baking. And the oven is located on the side of the firebox, too, not in vain.

Scientists decided to use the first heat - the heat from the combustion of the volatile components of wood or coal. In channel furnaces, it simply flies out into the chimney, not having time to heat up a massive and poorly heat-conducting brick. In the Russian stove, the first heat burns out beautifully under the arch, but the Russian stove does not fit into the original farmhouse hus (house), and it needs to be heated for a long time until it puffs with heat.

In the Swedish furnace, the furnace part is a kind of degenerate cap, which has only one function left: chemical afterburning of fuel. And a metal oven, which the flame does not touch, instantly heats up from the first heat. If you open its door, then 2-3 minutes after kindling, even with chips or straw, a warm wave will wash over those who enter. From head to toe, because flue gases from the furnace go down, and the Swede heats starting from the floor. Now you can not be afraid for the lungs, and the warming from the inside will also go for the future. In what, as you know, the Scandinavians do not give blunders.

Upper niche

The upper niche of the Swede (3) is capacious and heated both by the first heat, and by the second (see below), and by smoldering coals. It fits two sets of winter clothes; so that they do not fall out, a rope is pulled across. By morning, the clothes will be completely dry.

Niche above the stove

In old Swedish stoves, the niche above the stove (2) was covered with a wooden lid after heating and closing the view. They got up for work before daylight, and they found what had been cooked for breakfast in the evening still warm; until hot, breakfast was quickly heated in the oven by the first heat of the morning furnace.

smoke circulation

The Swedes did not make a hail between the firebox and the smoke circulation: this is a rather complicated knot, it increases the cost of the stove. We limited ourselves to a simple overflow window (overflow) below under the oven. If you forget to close the view after the firebox, the stove will instantly get cold, but the Swedes are a thorough, neat, tight-fisted people - they will not forget and will not lose sight of it.

The heat accumulator itself, without further ado, was arranged according to a proven channel scheme. It was warmed up by the second heat (from the combustion of an array of fuel) and the residual heat of smoldering coals. The classic scheme is with vertical channels. The stove heats a little worse at the bottom, but less soot accumulates, which is important when firing with mixed fuels. In richer houses, whose inhabitants were not so busy, got less tired and spent a lot of time on their feet, the smoke circulation was done with horizontal channels: it heats better at the bottom, but it will have to be cleaned more often.

The duct smoke circulation is arranged without any subtle principles, so it can withstand almost any tricks of the designers. Therefore, the ordering of the Swedish oven can vary depending on the specific requirements of the customer without a noticeable deterioration in the quality of the oven. Some designs will be discussed below.

Oven-two

In the morning, a hot wave from the first heat again doused those who got up from sleep, and while they were having breakfast, the kitchen warmed up almost like a sauna. Soaked in warmth to the marrow of the bones, in dry clothes, it was possible to climb into the swamp in the frost - it would be enough until the evening.

Add-ons

The back of the stove led into the living quarters. There, as it is said, there could be a fireplace or a couch. Stoves with a fireplace and a lounger will be considered, but something about the Swedish lounger needs to be said beforehand.

The length of the Swedish lounger (it does not pull at all on the floor) due to lack of space did not exceed 6 feet, and the width - 2.25 feet; OK. 180x66 cm. Therefore, they did not lay it on a sunbed. A Swedish bed was arranged over it (see fig.). It was sweet to sleep when heated from below, and there was a place for drawers, the linen in which never dampened.

Prelude to the next

The design of the Swedish stove is an example of perfection. Possessing an efficiency almost like that of a Russian, it is not much more complicated and more expensive than a Dutch one. She also has an acquired useful quality: increased thermal power and heat transfer. From the amount of materials needed for a Dutch woman at 2500 kcal / hour, you can add up a Swede giving 3500, and only two fireboxes per day are required. And you can cook, as in Russian, but without bending over and not wielding a fork.

But perfection does not come for free. The Swede is demanding on the quality of materials; it is impossible to lay it out of an old plinth on ravine clay, like a Russian one. Accessories, which you have to, will also not work. You need to work carefully, strictly following certain rules.

How to build it?

Dimensions and proportions

Swedish academics have racked their brains over calculations and checking the correct dimensions and proportions of the fuel section. The quality of the furnace is mainly determined by them. The results are:

The plate is 28x16 inches, which almost exactly corresponds to our 710x410 mm.
Firebox - 11-13 inches high, 12-14 inches wide, 16-20 inches deep, i.e. (281-330)x(305-356)x(406-506) mm.
Oven - 11-12" high, 13-15" wide, 18-20" deep; (281-305)x(330-381)x(456-506) mm.
The thickness of the iron walls of the oven is 1/6-1/4 inch, approx. 4-6 mm.
The distance from the edge of the grate to the nearest wall of the oven is from 3/4 foot to 1 foot; in 3/4 brick or brick.

The thickness of the oven walls is important. An oven made of thin roofing iron will burn out quickly, and an oven that is too massive will remove heat too quickly and warm up slowly, which will lead to underburning, soot deposition and poor efficiency. The same applies to the stove, so it must be made of a metal that does not conduct heat well - cast iron (cast) or special steel. The dishes are heated by the burners.

It is necessary to withstand not only the size, but also the proportions. If, say, the dimensions of the firebox are taken to a minimum, then its depth should also be minimal. In a too deep firebox - underburning with all the consequences, and in a too short one it will worsen the efficiency.

The oven is washed with hot gases not only from the sides, but also from the back. Therefore, from its rear wall to the wall of the furnace part, there must be a gap of at least a quarter of a brick. The depth of the oven can be reduced at the same mouth, but without going beyond the above limits. But you can move the oven close to the firebox if you isolate its wall closest to the firebox from fire with vermiculite or (worse) asbestos.

firebox door

The furnace door is the weak point of the Swede. Due to high thermal loads, a cheap door stamped from a sheet soon loosens, and may even fall out. Therefore, the door must be taken cast, with a mustache walled up in masonry.

You can make a mustache yourself by welding a pair of horizontally located pieces of annealed steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter and 50-70 mm long to the corners of the door frame. The wire whiskers are parted to the sides in the form of the letter V by 40-50 mm, and also walled up. But in order for the stamped door with such an addition to last for a long time, it must be reinforced from above with a steel strip or corner, see next.

Masonry subtleties

Folding the Swedish oven is also not so easy. It can be seen from the diagram that the Swede is heating the floor with might and main, so thermal insulation from the foundation is absolutely necessary. Now there is an excellent and not very expensive material for this - basalt cardboard. Isolate in three layers with 5 mm sheets. The middle layer is made of foil sheet. 15mm basalt microfibre with two IR reflective shields will bring the heat straight down to nothing.

Next, the foot of the furnace. It (1 and 2 rows for all furnaces) is laid out with seams widened up to 6-13 mm in order to obtain a protrusion-pedestal. But you cannot make seams wider than 13 mm (half an inch). Here and below, for the entire furnace, each brick is rinsed in water for 10-15 seconds before laying to wash off dust and improve adhesion. The thermal stresses in the Swede are high, and the laying of dry, dusty bricks will come out fragile. But in no case should you soak the bricks - the brick will pick up water, it will go into the solution, it will become sour, and the oven may even fall apart without being brought to the top. good quality is also needed, on marl. If it is permissible to lay a furnace on an ordinary clay mortar, this is indicated in its specification.

The next moment is the furnace part. For efficient afterburning of fuel, subject to a fairly intensive heat removal through the oven, the temperature in the furnace must be very high, which is what the Swede is designed for. Therefore, an ordinary brick will not work, you need fireclay (light yellow). The solution for fireclay masonry is kneaded on fireclay clay. The TKR of fireclay and simple red bricks are different, therefore it is unacceptable to put fireclay and red bricks back to back. The minimum joint width between fireclay and ordinary masonry is 6 mm.

It would be ideal to lay out the entire furnace part, from the 3rd row to the next above the stove, from fireclay, but it is expensive. Therefore, fireclay is usually used to lay out the inner lining of the firebox. In this case, the furnace requires 50-100 fireclay bricks.

The evenness of all surfaces of three-fours and brick halves is also important. Fortunately, now almost everyone has a grinder, so there is no need to prick with a butt. But there will be a lot of dust, so it is better to prepare the blank of non-whole bricks in advance in the open air according to the template and in accordance with the order of the furnace.

The same applies to bricks with rounded corners. Where indicated in the drawing, it is necessary to round the corners. The resistance to the flow of gases in the Swedish stove is great, and its draft is rather weak, and the turbulence at the corners will weaken it even more. For the same reason, the mouth of the chimney (chimney) must be made with fluff (it cuts the wind, preventing it from blowing into the chimney) wider, and raised no less, according to the calculations of the Swedes, than 2 feet (60 cm) above the roof ridge. According to the same calculations, the width of the fluff, counting from the edges of the mouth, is half a foot (half a brick) in each direction.

Video: Swede oven masonry process

Metal in the furnace

Stove makers know: the less iron in the furnace, the more reliable it is. But the Swedes immediately incorporated into the design of their furnace the use of iron strips and corners to reinforce the hanging masonry. The reason is the cheapening of the furnace (arched vaults of the road) and a decrease in its height. The ceilings in Swedish rural houses are low, and a tall arched stove would simply not fit there. The iron in Swedes has passed the test of time, but with the same condition as for fireclay, the condition: nothing back to back and nothing on a bare brick. The solution layer on all sides of the iron, except for the outer one, is 6 mm. The slab is laid in quarters cut out in bricks, also on mortar.

Commissioning

Looking ahead, we will talk about the preparation of the Swede and use. You can’t immediately drown a raw Swede. An important condition is to adjust the completion of the furnace for a long period of dry warm weather; if not, you will have to pay for electricity for the fan heater for two weeks, but without a two-week “cold” drying, you cannot start the stove. The Swede oven does not tolerate raw bricks in masonry.

Then - also 2 weeks of "warm" drying. The stove is regularly (ideally - continuously, as the previous one burns out) is heated with minimal (2-4 kg) portions of anthracite or aspen firewood. Birch and pine are not suitable - they give a lot of heat, but there is also a lot of soot.

For the period of warm drying, crumpled dry newspapers or wrapping paper are placed in the cleaning doors. There is nothing to be afraid of - there is too little heat to catch fire. Warm drying is complete when the paper is no longer damp.

Finally - hot drying. This is 3-4, in the mornings and evenings, fires with a gradual increase in the load of the firebox from minimum to maximum. If the oven is multi-pass (multi-mode), it is dried hot in the winter.

We build a Swede: with a stove bench

A Swedish oven with a stove bench, the drawing and ordering of which is shown in the figure, is intended for a living area of 25-40 square meters. m, depending on the climatic conditions of the area. The bed is the largest possible size for a Swede, so that a person of average height can sleep directly on it. The couch is turned on by closing the valve 2.

Detail to the drawing:

View;
Summer stroke valve;
Fire cutting;
Cooking stove;
Grate;
Furnace door;
Blower door;
cleaning doors;
Steel fasteners;
cooking niche;
Pechurki;
expansion chamber;
caps;
Horizontal winter channels;
Vertical channels of the winter course;
Ventilation door;
The entry of flue gases into the smoke circuit;
Exit of flue gases to the chimney;
Hailo;
Bypass (flow, from English bypass - bypass);
Thermal gaps.

This oven will require 600 pcs. red solid brick M200, 200 pcs. fireclay Sh8 and 150 kg of marl. Mountain or quartz sand - as needed for mixing a solution of sour cream density. In addition, 0.8 m of steel corner - sixties and 5 m of steel strip 50x5 mm.

From the fittings you will need a standard 710x410 mm cast-iron stove, a grate 250x400 mm, a furnace door 210x250 mm, a blower door 140x250 mm. Gate valves will require 7 pieces: 2 smoke 130x260 mm (view and summer move / couch) and 5 cleaning 70x130 mm.

An oven is not provided for in this oven - the heat intended for it goes into a large stove bench, and in summer it is not needed at all. Fuel afterburning is provided by caps 13. Although this furnace works like a Swede in terms of heat engineering with gas dynamics, it is more suitable for places with a frosty but dry (continental) climate because of the bench. In places with a cold maritime climate, such a stove will not give a wave of heat necessary to quickly warm up. In general, a Russian-Asian Swede.

Video: Swede oven with stove bench

with a fireplace

Here in the figure - a Swede with; specification for it in the list. It must be said that there are two ways to combine a Swedish stove with a fireplace. According to the first - the fireplace is simply attached to the rear of the stove; chimneys with chimneys separate. So less materials are saved, then you can heat the stove and fireplace separately as you like. According to the second method, the chimneys of the stove with a fireplace are partially combined and go into one chimney. In addition to greater savings in material and work, part of the heat of the fireplace is also saved, but such a stove with a fireplace can be heated ONLY SEPARATELY; otherwise - fumes.

Chimney;
Fire grate pins;
Fireplace grate;
Smoke tooth of cumin;
Furnace view;
Fireplace view;
Metal fasteners;
Cleaning door (cleaning);
Internal overlay.

The described furnace is made in the second way, with a common chimney. It will require:

Red brick M200 - 690 pcs;
Clay mortar of medium fat content and density;
Furnace door 210x450 mm -1 pc;
Blower door 140x140 mm -1 pc;
Cleaning door 70x140 mm -4 pcs;
Cast iron cooking stove 410x710 mm -1 pc;
Grate 175x225 mm -1 pc;
Gate valve with a hole 120x360x300 mm -3 pcs;
Oven 450x360x300 mm -1 pc.

This stove is a real Swede without much fuss, and laying it down is easy. Rods - holders of the fireplace grate - are laid on the second row. To form an overlap of a smoke tooth, they begin from the fifth row. Having reached the 9th, the masonry is suspended until the solution dries, then the smoke tooth is smoothed with a grinder. Similarly, internal laps are formed, but here you have to squeeze: the grinder will not crawl through. They, however, can not be smoothed out for the sake of simplifying the work, but the efficiency of the furnace will be lower.

Almost a classic

We will now consider a furnace very similar to that of which the venerable Wörd and Constedt presented their drawing to their suzerain at the time. There is only one external difference: instead of a niche - a shelf, see fig. In our time, seasonal trades are carried out in a more or less civilized environment and they return home from work in a form quite suitable for further existence, and it is more convenient on the regiment's farm.

Materials for such a Swede will need much less than the previous ones:

Brick red M200 - 540 pcs;
Any fireclay brick - 30 pcs;
Steel corner 40x40 - 5.25 m;
Metal strip 50x5 - 1.35 m;
Galvanized steel 0.6 mm - 1 sheet;

Fittings - standard, as listed above; only one position, except for cleaning doors, you need 3 of them. The oven is also standard 500x330x280 mm. Summer running is not provided, due to which simplicity, economy and high efficiency are achieved; the masonry scheme is designed mainly for solid bricks, and it is not necessary anywhere to trim along the masonry. In the countryside, in the summer, they usually cook on a stove in the summer kitchen or in an outdoor oven.

Thermal power - 5 kW, which, with a regular double firebox per day, gives a heat transfer of 3500 kcal / hour - enough in the middle latitudes for 50 square meters. m at least. This stove, like a native Swede, can withstand a melting of 30-40% of the heat output without any problems, which makes it possible to establish hot water supply without any problems, see below.

Malaya dacha

Here in the drawing is a small Swedish stove Buslaev. Calculated permanently habitable during the season of field work; say, if a commodity economy is organized on a summer cottage. Therefore, the niche is preserved: clothes and shoes often have to be dried.

The fittings are the same as in the previous furnace; the oven is able to give a warm wave. Due to the reduced dimensions, the material consumption is lower, but the thermal power is also less - the furnace is designed for heating 20-25 square meters. m at outside temperatures above -15 degrees. The design and ordering are simple, as in the previous version.

About babies

The expression "small Swedish oven" includes two fundamentally different concepts. Firstly, it is a channel stove with a hob, in terms of dimensions in terms of a little more than a Dutch column. The oven, if any, is located far from the firebox along the flue gases. Accordingly, the oven does not catch the first heat, it does not give a warm wave during kindling. There are no afterburners next to the firebox, which is the highlight of the Swede, either. The efficiency, thermal power and heat transfer of such a furnace are quite Dutch, and Swedish is just a name.

Secondly, these are decorative furnaces of industrial production (see the figure at the beginning) made of special alloys, modern refractories calculated on computers, with bio-furnaces. Outwardly, such an oven may not look like an old Swede at all, but it is calculated based on the same principles. Therefore, the decorative baby is a real Swedish oven; No wonder the best of them are Swedish. For comparison: to put a biplane of the Wright brothers next to the T-50 - you can still see that both of them are planes, and not helicopters, airships or rockets.

Cap in swedish?

In furnace manuals (not many, however), the furnace hood is sometimes defined as the part of it into which flue gases enter from below and exit from below. True, but that's just the tip of the iceberg. The role of the cap in the oven is twofold.

Firstly, gaseous particles of fuel are trapped under the dome of the hood and burn out, increasing the efficiency and heat transfer of the furnace. For the proper performance of this function, the vault of the cap must be a vault, i.e. rounded. Under a flat roof, 100% afterburning cannot be achieved.

Secondly, the exit of the furnace into the hood is in the form of a tapering nozzle - hail. The mouth of the hail (its upper cut) is located HORIZONTALLY, although the channel of the hail may be inclined. This gives the so-called gas view: heavy cold air cannot pass under the hood, like water into the hatch of a diving caisson bell. If, after heating, you do not close the standard view (which saves 100% from waste), then the stove will slowly cool down as if nothing had happened.

If the mouth of the hail is inclined, local convection immediately develops, as if it were pulling cold from the crack under the door. A tilted caisson is flooded with water, which makes it capsize and sink - divers have a lot of scary tales about this - and a stove with an inclined mouth of a hail quickly dries out with an open view.

Now back to the Swede. From the diagram at the beginning it can be seen that there is simply nowhere to arrange a cap, as such - there is a stove with a drying niche. The afterburning of the fuel is provided in a different way, and the furnace part is connected with the smoke circulation by a conventional vertical cut liner. Maybe it will be possible to reconfigure everything and get a bell-type stove with a hob, but its thermo- and gas dynamics will be completely different. Maybe such a hypothetical stove will come out better than a Swede, but she will no longer be a Swede.

“Two-cap Swede”

For an example - see fig. "Hailo" is highlighted with a red gradient. Two kind of caps are also visible, but where is the mouth with a horizontal cut? The caps here are just expansion chambers without any possibility of arranging a gas view. If such a “two-capped Swede” keeps warm with an open view, then the cannon can shoot from around the corner. Because the gun projectile in flight describes a curvilinear trajectory, gunners know something.

DHW from a Swede

A popular topic - hot water supply and heating of several rooms from one stove - is held under the slogan "free heat". Let's see what is really possible here and what is not. There are very few serial industrial models for cooking, hot water and water heating, and they are expensive. This is already disturbing.

Heat engineering

If a house at a given temperature difference inside and “outside” loses 12 kW of heat, and the stove gives 5, then swamp - do not swamp, and the house will cool down to a temperature at which the losses will equal the generation; there is no perpetual motion machine. Even if a layer of the purest anthracite comes into your cellar, and you don’t care to drag and swell 6-8, or even 10 buckets into the furnace, that Ilya Muromets blows a feather from his palm, the furnace will not accept so much fuel, its thermal power is limited by the design. Melting will give anything - smoke, soot, waste - but not heat beyond what the stove can give.

Boiler and heat exchanger

Let's say the stove is powerful, and hot water is needed only for household needs. How to get it? There are two well-known methods: a U-shaped boiler surrounding the furnace and a heat exchanger in the chimney. Do-it-yourselfers use the boiler a little: the flame is cooled about it, there is an underburning even with a normal firebox; from here - smoke, soot. The boiler itself burns out quite quickly, and may even boil, which will lead to an accident.

The heat exchanger in the smoke path also, it turns out, is not an option. A sharp pressure jump due to cooling of the gas on the heat exchanger leads to the occurrence of local turbulence. The energy of the flow is spent on its creation and support, and not on traction. A so-called “dead pillar” appears, a kind of gas view acting on the contrary, which is in no way needed. And again - smoke, soot, and even waste with a normal firebox.

This phenomenon can be dealt with by allowing the gas flow to flow to the heat exchanger instead of causing the gas to become entangled in it. But hot water can be obtained very little, and soot has to be removed much more often than usual. For example, in a Swede with a hot water boiler, the diagram of which is shown in the figure, the boiler capacity is as much as 10 liters (500x500x50 mm). Not enough for dishes and washing.

And yet it is possible!

However, a homemade Swede with a hot water boiler is a possible thing. It is only necessary not to be greedy and not to strive for the impossible, but to take where it is available and will not hurt.

Let's start with the furnace. Remelting at 20% of its capacity will withstand the crappiest stove. This gives 1-2 kW of heat. Already not bad; 100-200 liters of water can be heated per day to 65-70 degrees, depending on which boiler and with what insulation. Enough for the family to wash and wash.

Now, where does this warmth come from? But the Swede is just for this and is best suited. We use the fact that we are no longer semi-savages and our climate is more even. Therefore, the heat from the drying niche and the warm wave from the oven can be put into the water without impairing the operation of the oven. Most likely, no reheating is required. There is also a tidbit of warmth in the Swede - her top. It heats the ceiling and attic more with radiation, which, in general, is not necessary.

Based on this, a long-known system is obtained (see fig.): a coil at the far wall of the oven and a storage tank with good thermal insulation (basalt wool, basalt cardboard; drywall on top). The tank can be positioned in two ways:

Vertical flat in a niche (on the right in the figure) - capacity up to 120 liters. The pressure is small, but in a house without running water it is convenient to fill through the neck.
L-shaped, low, wide, but not less than 40-45 cm high, at the top of the furnace - on the left in fig. L-shaped - to cover the chimney.

Both tanks are atmospheric, with a drain hole in the filler cap, and can be refilled automatically via a float valve from the toilet cistern, but the latter needs some tweaking. The main one is an oblique baffle behind the cold water supply valve. The float rocker and the hot water supply pipe from the coil pass through the slot and hole in it, respectively.

The purpose of the deflector is to direct cold water with a slow wide tongue to the bottom of the tank. Otherwise, due to turbulence in the outflowing jet and hydrodynamic "suction", the layers of water in the low tank will quickly mix up and the hot one will be able to select nothing at all. You need to attach the deflector not to the lid (this will greatly complicate the assembly), but to the sides of the tank. If the tank is vertical in a niche, then instead of a deflector, you can simply put a tube on the valve spout. But in this case, the water intake will turn out to be no more than 2/3 of the tank capacity.

The second highlight is that the float rocker must be shortened or modified so that with the new valve completely closed, the distance from the top of the float to the tank cap was at least 30 mm. This reserve is necessary for the wear of the valve needle and the fouling of it and the seat with salts.

For seasonally inhabited premises, arranging drainage to drain the remaining water for the winter is extra work. It’s easier to let it out with a siphon hose through the neck, as they once shared gasoline on the highway.

Note: the system is operable only when the coil is combined with support heating from the furnace body. One by one - the water will either warm up a little, or it will quickly cool down. Estimated thermal insulation - double-sided foil basalt cardboard 10 mm and moisture-resistant drywall. EPS 20 mm is even better, but it is more expensive.

How about registers?

But maybe you can build a furnace with a water heating circuit yourself? Unfortunately, at home this is hardly possible. An elementary heat engineering calculation says: for a detached house of 100 sq. m in plan, insulated with EPPS 80 mm and with three-chamber double-glazed windows in the windows, a thermal power of 25 kW is needed. Boilers with a furnace capable of digesting such quantities of solid fuel require not only complex calculations, but also special materials and industrial technology for manufacturing.

Save on the weather

Seductive in mid-latitudes with a temperate climate looks like a furnace with three firing modes: summer, autumn-spring and winter. But when designing multi-mode (multi-pass) furnaces, pitfalls have to be overcome.

First, behind or in front of the closed seasonal damper, the already mentioned dead column can occur. It will no longer disturb the smoke, but it will reduce the efficiency of the furnace and it will warm up longer. Just when you need it better and faster.
The second is the complexity of manipulating the dampers. A busy hostess may forget or not figure out what needs to be closed and what to open, and get burned at work in the truest sense of the word.
The third is sluggish kindling in winter. It is difficult for the barely heated flue gases to push the outside cold, dense and heavy air along the long winding smoke path.

And here again the well-thought-out principles of the Swedish oven come to the rescue. In the drawings - Grigoriev's furnace, free from these shortcomings. She is even four-way; the fourth move is for a fierce winter.

There are three seasonal shutters in Grigoriev's furnace; in the figure, they are conditionally shown in colors: summer green, autumn yellow, winter blue. The switching algorithm is intuitively simple: the damper is open for the season, the rest are closed. For kindling in winter, the summer damper is opened for 5-20 minutes, and when the flame noticeably reaches into the chimney, or buzzes, they close it. For enhanced winter running, open the autumn damper without closing the winter damper. The draft will increase, and you can give more fuel.

Dead pillars in this kiln, in principle, could form in the zones marked with a blue gradient. But in fact, cold air (or cooled gas) will immediately flow out of there, and hot air will rise instead. The author, figuratively speaking, adapted the sunken diving bell to the case, and the internal heat transfer in the furnace practically does not depend on the mode of the furnace.

The ordering of Grigoriev's stove (fig. on the right) is not much more complicated than an ordinary Swede, and for its construction you will need:

600 pcs. ordinary red brick;
simple clay solution of medium fat content;
6 running meters of steel strip 60x5 mm;
4 things. the same type of standard smoke dampers, including the view;
6 pcs. cleaning doors, also standard;
standard stove, oven, grate, furnace and blower doors - 1 pc.

Video: three-mode swedish

Outcome

The Swedish stove is intended for a small house, permanently inhabited all year round or for a long time. For an irregular firebox in a country house or in outbuildings, as well as in rooms of a multi-room dwelling, a Dutch woman is more suitable. You need to heat the Swedish stove regularly; sucked moisture, it requires a long drying preliminary (accelerating) fireboxes. But with a regular firebox, the Swede stove can be considered the most successful household heating and cooking stove in terms of the combination of qualities. The Russian stove is superior to the Swedish one in terms of technical parameters, but not by much, but it is complicated and cumbersome.

A do-it-yourself Swede stove can only be built if the home master already has stable bricklayer skills and, at least a little, experience with. By itself, the Swede is a rather complex structure, clearly not intended for primary training in such technologies.

There are several models of the Swede type oven:

- a heating and cooking stove, which has only a stove, and also, if desired, equipped with an additional oven, a hot water tank and a niche for drying;

- a fireplace stove, which can be located in such a way that the heating and cooking part of the structure will go into the kitchen, and the decorative fireplace side - into the bedroom or living room;

- "Swede", which has a stove bench - such a stove has a more complex design, but it can perform the function of a warm bed in winter.

The model is selected depending on the area that can be used for it, since some of the varieties are quite massive, while others, on the contrary, have compact forms.

When choosing a furnace, in addition to the area, of course, the functionality requirements for it are taken into account. For example, if the "Swede" is installed in the kitchen and its location does not border on other rooms, then the choice usually falls on a compact one. If it is necessary to heat the whole house, then the appropriate place is chosen for the stove, where it will heat two rooms at once, or the option with a stove bench, from which a sufficiently large amount of heat also comes.

"Swede" with a fireplace is perfect for a romantic interior - it is usually chosen by those owners who like to spend evenings near the fire. If the laying of the fireplace section is done correctly, then it will also be able to heat the room into which its firebox goes.

Whatever furnace model is chosen, work still begins with the construction of the base-foundation.

Foundation for the furnace

It is recommended to arrange the foundation for the furnace even when laying the foundation of the house, if, of course, this is possible. If not, then you will have to build it in an already finished building. But in both cases, it is imperative to separate the foundation of the furnace from the concrete base of the entire building. This is necessary so that if one of the structures fails to shrink, it would not “pull” the other behind it, and thereby create masonry deformations.

For the massive structure of the furnace, a reliable foundation is arranged, which should go deep into the ground by 700 ÷ 800 mm.

Provided that the soil freezes to great depths, the pit is also deepened - this parameter must be known in advance, even before the start of construction.

It is also important for the reliability of the structure to find out the characteristics of the soils in the construction region, since the deepening of the foundation and its strengthening also depend on this. All these data can be "get hold of" in any local construction organization.

If the laying of the furnace will be carried out in an already erected house with an arranged floor, then the markings are made directly on the coating, so as to cut out the desired fragment of it and get to the ground level. The hole in the floor must have dimensions that exceed the base of the oven by 100 ÷ 150 mm on each side.

Next, the soil is marked and a pit is dug to the desired depth.
The bottom of the finished pit is compacted, and sand is poured onto it, which is wetted with water, and also carefully compacted. The thickness of the sand cushion in compacted form should be at least 100 ÷ 200 mm, depending on the depth of the excavation.
Then crushed stone follows - it is poured onto a pillow of sand with a layer 150 ÷ 170 mm thick. It also needs to be well sealed.
The next step is the installation of formwork under the foundation. As a rule, its sides are knocked down from low-grade boards. If gaps form between the boards, then inside the formwork is lined with plastic wrap, which is fixed on the board walls with a stapler.

In addition to the film, roofing material can be used to waterproof the foundation, which also needs to be fixed to the walls.

The formwork is raised above the ground to the height of the foundation, which may not reach the floor level by one layer of bricks or rise above it by 80 ÷ 100 mm.

The second option may be to install the formwork only around the pit, but the waterproofing material must be fixed.

Then a coarse solution is poured, which is made from coarse gravel and cement, with a small addition of sand. The thickness of this layer should be about 150 mm.
Next, a reinforcing structure made of metal rods is installed, which is pressed into a fresh solution.

The next layer is poured with a thinner cement mortar, to the height of the soil - it is leveled and left to set.
After it sets and hardens a little, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it.

Having laid the grid, it is poured with concrete solution to the height of the formwork. The poured mortar is leveled, and after that the foundation must completely seize, harden and gain the necessary strength. These processes will take quite a long time, and usually proceed to subsequent operations no earlier than after 25 ÷ 28 days.

After that, the upper part of the formwork is removed, and a waterproofing layer is laid on the even surface of the foundation, consisting of 2-3 layers of roofing material glued together in thickness.

Upon completion of this stage of foundation preparation, you can proceed directly to

"Swede" with a fireplace

This oven model will fully satisfy those who prefer both a practical approach to things and appreciate the mood of romantic evenings. It is installed so that the cooking side of the structure goes to the kitchen, and the fireplace - to one of the living quarters intended for recreation.

The stove becomes part of a wall or a separator of two zones in a large room, which is typical for summer cottages or small private houses.

"Swede" from the side of the fireplace

The internal structure of the fireplace stove can be seen in its cross-sectional images, where you can clearly see how the metal elements are installed.

materials

To build this furnace, you need to purchase high-quality building materials - only in this case you can get a reliable, durable, durable and beautiful structure. Bricks and building mixtures are bought with a margin, about 15% more than the material needed for the construction. In addition, some metal (cast iron and steel) elements will be required.

So, for this model "Swedes" you need to purchase:

Red, preferably clinker brick, from which it is easier to make a neat, even masonry. It will need 717 pieces, not counting the construction of the pipe.
Silicate or fireclay bricks for laying combustion chambers - 154 pieces.
Sand, clay and cement or ready-made heat-resistant mortar mixes.
Steel wire, with a diameter of 4 ÷ 5 mm - for fixing cast iron parts.
Asbestos sheet and the same cord - for fire protection of the wall of the house, and to protect metal elements from premature burnout.
Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 ÷ 1030 mm - 2 pieces, it is needed to strengthen the surface of the hob.
Steel strips 50×5×920mm — 3 pcs., 50×5×54 mm — 2 pcs., 50×5×48 mm — 2 pcs. These details will be required to create the basis for laying the next brick row above the cooking chamber.
Grate, size 200 × 300 mm - 1 pc.
Furnace door 210×250 mm -1 pc.
Doors for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
Blower door 140×140 mm -1 pc.
Oven 450×360×300 mm -1 pc.
Latches for chimney channels 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
Cooking stove 410×710 mm -1 pc.
Fireplace grate, 690 ÷ 700 mm long - it can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel bar.
Metal sheet, size 500 × 700 mm, in the amount of 2 pcs. It will be needed if such a flooring option is chosen on the floor in front of the firebox. Instead, ceramic tiles can be used for this purpose.

This oven model has a size of 1020×890×2170 mm. In addition, the fireplace insert protrudes 130 mm ahead of the entire structure.

Prices for clinker bricks

Refractory brick

Furnace masonry

In order to have an idea of how smoke is removed inside the structure through the chimney channels, and how the rest of the elements are located, it is necessary to carefully study the plan. It will help to understand the internal cavities and chambers, as well as determine how the bricks are laid in one or another section of the furnace being built.

Scheme "Swede" with a fireplace, the path of movement of combustion products - the first drawing ...

… and the second

Having such a scheme, it is possible to carry out preliminary laying of the entire structure “dry” according to it - this will help to finally clarify the configuration of each of the rows.

In addition, experienced craftsmen advise when working on the construction of brick ovens already on the mortar, each of the rows also first try to lay out “dry”. This is done in order to pre-fit the bricks in size for each row. Only after these preliminary processes, it will be possible to proceed with the final laying on the mortar.

Thanks to the drawn up ordering schemes, it will be much easier to try your hand at building the Swede.

Before you start laying out the first row, it is necessary to make an accurate marking on the roofing material laid on the foundation - to draw the edges of the future base with chalk.

According to the markup, the first row of the furnace is laid out. It must be mounted perfectly precisely, since how harmonious and reliable the whole structure will depend on its evenness.

1 row - solid. Should be perfectly even.

The first row, as in all oven models, is laid out solid.

Second row - installing a fireplace grate

The second row is laid in a slightly different layout, but it is also completely filled with bricks. The area where the fireplace insert will be located is laid out with silicate bricks. Having laid out a row, holders are installed on top of it, and a fireplace grate is fixed on them by welding.

3 row - the beginning of the formation of internal cavities and channels

In the third row, they begin to make out the blower and cleaning channels, as well as a place to install the oven. In addition, they begin to arrange a vertical chimney channel. On the other side of the structure, the fuel chamber of the fireplace begins to form.

Simultaneously with the laying of this row, doors are built into it in the right places, which are fixed with the help of prepared pieces of wire.

From the back of the chamber for installing the oven, a passage connected to the cleaning chambers is left. To do this, the corner of the brick installed in this place is cut off.

The fourth row completely repeats the third one in configuration, only that the bricks go "in dressing".

5 row - places are being prepared for the grate and the combustion chamber

On the fifth row, a place for installation is made on top of the blower chamber, and otherwise it completely repeats the previous rows. The row is laid out with silicate bricks, in areas that will be in direct contact with the fire - these are the zones where the grate will be laid.

"Trying on" the oven

Then, a grate is installed - it must be fixed to the solution.

On the same row, you can install the firebox door, tying it on the sides with a rope, or you can transfer its installation to the sixth row, leaving an opening between the bricks for it.

6 row - installation of the combustion chamber door

On the sixth row, a door is installed (if it was not installed on the fifth) and fixed with a wire, which is embedded in the seams between the rows.

Silicate bricks, which will create a wall between the firebox and the oven cabinet, are installed on the edge. Thanks to this design, the oven will warm up faster.

On the sixth row, the gap left in the lower rows at the back of the oven is blocked - between it and the laid out vertical channel.

Seventh row - metal strips to cover the fireplace chamber

The seventh row is practically the same as the sixth, except that a metal strip is laid on top of it, which will become a support for laying the next row of bricks.

On the eighth row, work is proceeding according to the scheme.

8 row - the oven is fully installed in its place

The ninth row has the same structure as the previous one, except for the peculiarity that two metal strips are placed above the oven, on which the next row will be laid. These strips will help take the load off the camera's support points.

On the tenth row, a place is first prepared for laying the hob. The edge above the furnace door and oven is reinforced with a corner. Asbestos strips are laid under the edges of the hob. On the left edge of the oven, in the wall, a gap is left for installing the door.

11 row - the beginning of laying out a niche for the hob

On the eleventh row, the formation of a cooking niche begins. Bricks, laid on the right side of the slab, cover the hole between the furnace wall and the slab, which was left open on the previous row. The remaining elements are stacked according to the scheme.

12 row - special attention to the beveled part of the bricks

At this level, the bricks blocking the combustion chamber are cut obliquely. This is necessary for the correct direction of smoke towards the chimney.

13 row is laid out exactly according to the ordering scheme.

14 row - the beginning of the formation of a mantelpiece

On the fourteenth row, a mantelpiece is formed, with the help of a brick protrusion forward of the masonry and on the sides, by about 25 mm.

15 row - expansion of the mantelpiece

On this row, a shelf continues to form above the smoldering fireplace - the bricks are now laid perpendicular to the bottom row. They are pushed forward and to the sides by another 25 mm.

16 row - stripes and a corner for laying a niche overlap

On the sixteenth row, the niche above the hob is covered with steel strips, and a corner is laid on the front edge.

18 - 17 rows - complete overlap of the cooking niche

17 and 18 rows are performed according to the order. When laying them, the cooking niche is covered with two continuous rows of bricks.

19 row - system of internal channels and cleaning doors

On the 19th row, chimney openings are made. The brick separating the fireplace and vertical furnace channel is cut obliquely on both sides. In addition, doors are installed on the cleaning channels.

20 row is laid out according to the scheme. When laying it, no additional elements are installed.

21 row - another revision door

On the 21st row, another door is installed - on the cleaning channel.

On the 22nd row, a door is also being installed - on another cleaning channel.

23 row is laid out strictly according to the scheme.

24 row - valve installation

On the 24th row, a valve is installed on the chimney channel of the fireplace

25 row - another valve

On the 25th row, a second chimney valve is installed.

On the 26th row, the last door is mounted on the channel for cleaning, and the vertical channel is combined with a gas outlet.

27 ÷ 28 rows are mounted according to the scheme, and are almost identical to each other.

29 ÷ 30 rows cover all channels with a continuous coating, leaving only one hole for the chimney pipe, in which the bricks are laid out with a bevel.

31 row - the last, common valve is installed

On the thirtieth first row, a common valve is installed on the chimney.

From the 32nd row, laying of the pipe begins. Its height will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The thickness of the walls of the chimney should be at least half a brick.

If it is decided to build just such a model of the stove, then the video attached to the article will also be a good help:

Video: Swede stove with a fireplace part

"Swede" with a couch

This “Swede” model turns out to be very massive, as it has a fairly large bench, which is located in the back of the structure.

A very practical Swedish model with a heated bed

Such a variant of the heating structure is especially successful for country houses, since, despite its massiveness, this stove will help save space, because, having it, you can not install a bed.

In addition, summer nights are not always warm, and in the evening a heated stove is able to keep the couch warm until the morning.

The size of the oven is 1781×1280 mm, the bed has a length of 1781 mm and a width of 630 mm. Such a heating structure is able to provide heat to a living area of 30 square meters. m.

A fully folded stove must be dried for about 10 ÷ 12 days before heating at full capacity. This can be done in a natural way, by opening all the valves and doors, or you can help in this matter in an “artificial” way, in which an ordinary high-power electric light bulb is used. It is placed in the furnace, then the door is closed, the power is turned on and left for the entire drying period.

After that, the initial furnace is carried out with a small laying of firewood for three to four days. Then the amount of fuel is gradually increased. Such drying will well strengthen and harden the solution in the seams.

If it is planned to carry out the external finishing of the structure, then this process is carried out only after the furnace has completely dried, and even better - after one season of full operation.

On your own is not as easy as it seems, therefore, before getting down to business, it is recommended to realistically assess your strengths. You can conduct several trial workouts by doing the usual bricklaying on the mortar. Be sure to thoroughly, down to the smallest detail, to understand the nuances of orders. Only after the successful completion of the processes of such "learning" it will be possible to start independent work on the furnace. And all the same, it would not be superfluous to secure your work by finding the opportunity to invite a knowledgeable person for control and guidance.

Swedish oven with hob and oven

In the absence of gas heating, the Swede stove can serve as a worthy analogue. It allows not only to heat the house or cottage, but also to use the oven for cooking. Unlike the Russian stove, this stove has a lower efficiency, but it heats up faster due to its small size. Most often, such a stove is placed in the wall between the kitchen and the living room, or the living room and the kitchen. If desired, such a stove can have an additional stove bench. The classic version is laid out of ceramic bricks, and the firebox is made of fireclay. To the side of the firebox is a large oven. The oven heats up in the first minutes of burning the fire and helps to improve the heating of the room.

Photo

Swedish oven "Swede" can be visible, rough and weighty. Usually equipped with a stove and oven. Small decorative options are placed in the corner. The modern analogue is made of ceramic bricks and can be lined with talcomagnesite. They can be installed in any convenient place. This design has a special storage hood, which helps to burn the fuel and increase the heat transfer of the furnace. This oven consists of a lower niche, an upper niche and a niche above the stove.

Catalog of ovens "Shvedok"

	Has a high level of efficiency. High degree of heat transfer, functionally adapted to cook food in the oven or on burners, which can be one or two.. Heats up pretty quickly. The combustion process is regulated (flaps). Can be made with "winter" and "summer" course.
	Swede oven 2 With good efficiency, it has a small size. Furnaces of this type are multifunctional. Food is cooked on them, water is heated, various foodstuffs and clothes are dried. Rooms are heated with such stoves .. In addition, the Swede is wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall.
	This design can be: wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall. Dimensions - 115 x 90 x cm. Weight 2000 kg. Heat output with two fireboxes per day 1900 kcal/h. Power = 4.2 kW. Can heat a house up to 40 m2.
	Equipped with an oven, a stove with one or two burners, an upper drying chamber. In this design, the firebox is located on one side. It is possible to transfer the furnace door (if requested by the customer) to the opposite side.
	By combining a stove and a heating stove into a single design, you will get a device of this design. There is a firebox with stove, oven and heat shield.
	Plate with shield 6 Construction dimensions: 102 x 102 x 217 cm. Weight (including shield) - 2800 kg. Heat transfer (with two fireboxes) - 3100 kcal / h. The front sides of the shield and slab, as a rule, are plastered.

The device and features of the Swede oven

The lower niche is heated first, the second after. The upper niche is quite spacious. Warming up occurs, both the first and the second, and the final heat. The Swede first heats the lower part, as the flue gases from the furnace go down. Instead of a chimney for this oven, an overflow is made, which is placed below the oven. To save heat, after burning firewood, you need to close the valve. Vertical channels are considered a classic option. Horizontal channels heat better, but require more frequent cleaning.

Heating - cooking stove Swede No. 2. Designed for a rural home. It has the functions of heating and cooking on the stove and oven. The most common design in northern latitude.

The process of building a Swedish

The process of building a Swede stove. For the construction of the furnace, calculations are taken: for the stove - 71 by 41 centimeters; for the firebox (height, width, depth) 30 by 35 and 45 centimeters; for the oven 30 by 35 and 50 centimeters. These dimensions may vary depending on the oven version. The metal walls for the oven must be at least 4 millimeters. From the edge of the grates to the oven, the distance should be about one brick. There should be a gap of a quarter of a brick from the back of the oven to the firebox. The oven is made of dense cast metal.

Swede oven orders

When the oven approaches the firebox, the walls are additionally protected by vermiculite. The door must be cast iron. It is attached to the masonry, which guarantees the reliability of fixation.

Before masonrybrick ovensthe floor is insulated. Insulation can be made from basalt cardboard. The insulation is laid so that at the end a 1.5 cm layer is formed. The middle layer is made of foil sheet.
The foot of the stove (the first 2 rows) is laid out with widened centimeter seams, so a ledge is obtained. Brick before laying is moistened. The next two rows form an ash pan and three doors are mounted to clean the oven. Doors are mounted with a gap. An asbestos cord is inserted into the gaps.

With a two-layer furnace made of red and fireclay bricks, a distance of 6 millimeters is made between them. The inner lining of the furnace is lined with fireclay bricks. The grates are inserted. And the oven is inserted into the same row. From the sixth to the ninth, a combustion chamber is formed. The door is inserted. The tenth row covers the oven.

Next, the slab is laid and smoke channels are made. When laying the slab, quarters are cut out in the bricks.From the twelfth to the sixteenth, the cooking chamber is laid out, the smoke exhaust channels. The next two are shifted with cut bricks. From the twenty-first to the twenty-eighth there is a chimney. In the twenty-seventh, a valve is inserted with a gasket of basalt cord in the gap. From the twenty-ninth row there is an extension for a cornice of 5 centimeters. The channels (except for the pipe) are closed.

The next row is made even wider by 5 centimeters. Then the size is reduced to the original. The pipe is laid out in 5 bricks. In front of the ceiling for 3 rows, a fluff pipe is made. The thickness of the pipe is one and a half bricks. An iron chimney cap is placed on top of the pipe. The pipe going outside the house is laid out with cement mortar.

materials

* ceramic brick m200, - 600 pieces;
* refractory brick, - 80 pcs.;
* furnace door 210 x 250 mm - 1 piece;
* blower door 250 x 140 mm - 1 pc.;
* cleaning door 140 x 140 mm - 5 pcs.;
* cast iron plate 410 x 710 mm - 1 pc.;
* oven 450 x 360 x 300 mm - 1 pc.;
* grate length 250 mm - 1 piece;
* pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm - 1 pc.

Video: Do-it-yourself Swede oven

Chimney

The Swede's chimney is made with a wider fluff. It rises above the ridge of the house to a height of at least 60 centimeters. The width of the fluff from the edges of the mouth should be half a brick in all directions. There should be a gap of 5-6 centimeters between the iron parts of the roof and the brick.

After the construction of the stove, the Swede must dry and only then can it be used. To dry it, you can heat it daily with a minimum amount of aspen firewood. Warming up increases over time until it reaches full power. After that, the Swede oven can be used.

The Swedish stove, although it was born thanks to Swedish master designers, is now widespread all over the world.

She is the main competitor of the Russian stove, although they have little in common: completely different sizes, device and heating ability.

The Swede oven can only heat small rooms - from 20 to 35 square meters. Therefore, it is not suitable for heating the whole house, unlike the Russian stove.

But the Swedish heater melts faster, has a large efficiency, spends economically fuel. Most often, such a stove is installed in summer cottages and small private houses (for example, guest houses).

Modern brick Swedish oven

They fold the Swede on their own, without resorting to the help of a professional.

It is important to decide on the scheme, choose the location of the future furnace, prepare the foundation, tools necessary for laying.

Particular attention is paid to material quality for the manufacture of the furnace - it must be highest designed for high temperatures.

Types of stoves with masonry schemes and ordering

In total, 4 types of Swedish ovens are known. All of them are equally popular, but have their own characteristics.

Swedes are divided by type:

on a conventional stove with a stove;
on a system with a stove and oven;
on a design with a fireplace;
for installation with a bed.

All these stoves don't take up too much space(even the one with a sunbed), they can be installed between the kitchen and the living room, then it will be possible to warm up two rooms at the same time. Important competently think over the chimney so that the smoke leaves the room on time, without harming the household. And all Swedes are not too susceptible to soot and soot. Dirt, of course, accumulates on internal surfaces, but not in such large quantities as in a Russian stove.

Fast heating is another feature of any Swede. Already after 15 minutes comfortable in the room. Heat distribution can be controlled. For this, it is provided mode - winter / summer. The stove has a special damper. In cold weather, it is opened, the whole structure heats up. In warm weather, the damper is closed, so only the hob and oven heat up.

Conventional Swedish oven with stove

An ordinary stove with a stove is distinguished by its simplicity And compactness- a minimum of details, nothing more. This option will appeal to those who do not have at their disposal a large number of free square meters. The unit will take about 80 centimeters long and about 40 wide. This is quite enough to warm two adjacent rooms entirely.

Attention! It is advisable to fold the oven dry, without using mortar to check the masonry. It will take much longer, but it will allow avoid blunders.

The instruction for laying a Swede with a stove looks like this:

First two rows lay out "tightly", without recesses and cavities.
3rd to 11th row it is necessary to provide doors for chambers (blowing and cleaning).
12th row must be whole.
Rows 13 to 16 it is necessary to provide a recess for the heating and cooking surface.
17th and 18th rows- equal.
Next is performed chimney.

Photo 1

Stove with hob and oven

A Swede with a stove and oven is considered a more complex unit than a stove-only system. But in everyday life the first option is much more practical. The hostess will be able to cook several dishes at the same time - cook something, bake something. If the family is large, you definitely can’t do without an oven.

The oven with hob and oven provides more rows than a heating device without them.

Instructions for creating a Swede with a stove and oven look like this:

1st and 2nd row make deaf.
3 to 10 the rows provide a place for the oven, there is also a kindling chamber and a cleaning part.
11th to 16th rows leave room for comfortable work with the hob.
17th row is blank again.
18th to 31st a row of the stove is laid so that it can function adequately: it has an air exchange system and a chimney.

Photo 2. The masonry scheme for a stove with an oven is more complicated: more rows, a chimney system appears.

Swede oven with fireplace

The unit with a fireplace will appeal to aesthetes who appreciate cosiness in your own home or garden. The fireplace is stylish and expensive. Households will gather around him to discuss the latest news or hold a family council. And how cozy it is by the fireplace on long winter evenings.

But the fireplace is also dangerous. It is not recommended to install it in a house where there are small children.

Attention! cooking panel will be located in one room and a fireplace in another. If you make them next to each other, it will turn out to be at least inconvenient - it will be impossible to cook food while the fireplace is burning.

There is nothing complicated in arranging a stove with a fireplace.

The laying instructions are somewhat reminiscent of installing a system with a hob. Only in this case 3rd to 15th a row is laid out a fireplace part. The crate is required, so the coals will not crumble.

Photo 3

Stove with stove bench

The stove with a stove bench is extra bed. It is especially true in winter, when the house is cool, and the stove is warm and comfortable. The Swede is not designed for large sizes, so the bed is very compact - maximum 1 meter 80 centimeters in length. Otherwise, the stove will not work properly - it will not heat the room and the hob properly.

The stove system has a hob and a stove bench. The latter has no ledges or armrests. This is a straight surface on which a soft mattress can be placed. On the couch it is convenient to dry things. They dry very quickly and do not wrinkle.

Total provided 27 rows. The first and second, as in all previous cases, are solid, without cavities and irregularities.

Photo 4. Ordering for a stove with a stove bench. The bottom right corner shows what the finished structure looks like.

How to fold a small oven with your own hands

To create a stove with high quality, it is not necessary to be an experienced stove-maker, it is important to understand the intricacies of the schemes and act strictly according to them, not deviating from the plan. Check out the video presented on the Internet to understand the installation process in detail. The instruction looks like this:

Select place to install the unit - away from the door and windows.
Build strong and reliable foundation.
Lay out waterproofing layer so that no liquid enters the furnace from the foundation. For such purposes, the usual ruberoid. He is placed in 3-4 layers fastened together with nails or a construction stapler.
start furnace installation. Each row must be even. Here you can not do without the building level.
Install chimney and pipes.
Dry bake. This will require about 2 weeks. They start with a gradual short kindling, gradually increasing the time intervals.

Important! The 1st and 2nd rows must be made solid so that the furnace stands stably in its place.

Project selection

In order to choose an oven that will fully meet the needs of a particular family, it is necessary to clearly determine which tasks she needs to do:

If the unit is needed only for cooking, it is advisable to put an ordinary Swede with a hob and oven, not to spend money on extra things - a fireplace, a stove bench.
If the room is not enough bed, then a stove with a stove bench is a “must have” for a particular room or house.
If the system also performs aesthetic function, then you can’t do without a fireplace.

Attention! When laying, follow the diagram. It is unacceptable to make adjustments to it if you are superficial in the furnace business. Even an additional third blind row from the bottom will affect the oven from the worst side, not to mention other parts of the system.

The least space will be occupied by an ordinary Swedish oven, most of all - a design with a sunbed. It is more difficult to assemble a system with a fireplace, there is a rather laborious smoke removal and air part.

Photo

Photo 5. A possible variant of the stove with a stove bench. The sleeping place is not too big, but enough for one person.

Photo 6. An example of an oven with an oven: compact, practical, easy to put together and looks good.

Photo 7. A large and impressive fireplace adorns the stove. But not for everyone such a project will be convenient.

How to choose brick and other materials

To build a solid Swede oven, you need to stock up on the following materials:

Clay for laying out the furnace - you need a special one, and not the one that was taken from the river. The consistency of the solution is thick, reminiscent of fatty sour cream, does not spread, holds tightly in place.
fireclay brick. It is considered refractory, has no cavities. The product must comply with GOST, all bricks must be of the same size, color and structure.
metal doors for blower and cleaning chambers.
wooden boards.
lattice.
Three valves.
oven.
metal corners.
hob.
red brick for facing (you can do without it or use clay, special plaster).

Attention. The main thing in laying the furnace - brick. Suitable only fireclay. Some experts advise using red. But fireclay is considered more durable and resistant to thermal effects.

Instrument preparation

To lay out a quality oven, materials and skillful hands alone will not be enough. It is advisable to stock up on tools. In particular:

spatula;
construction mixer;
a bucket for the production of a solution;
sieve;
trowel;
construction stapler;
hammer (normal or rubber);
building level;
roulette.

It is good to have all the tools listed above at hand, then the process of laying the furnace will fast and not too time consuming. It is not necessary to buy the most expensive ones, ordinary ones are enough.

Foundation pouring

They build a Swede only on the foundation. The stove has significant weight, an ordinary floor will quickly deform, and the stove system will fail. The instruction looks like this:

If the floor is already ready, it needs to be disassembled. cut out hole, which along the perimeter 10 centimeters more proposed heating device.
Digging in the ground a pit with a depth of 70-100 centimeters.
The pit is covered rubble approximately on 10 centimeters.
Next is the layer sand at 5 centimeters.
Again gravel(more 5—10 centimeters).
Construction begins formwork for the fundamentals. It can be made from old wooden boards. Formwork should rise above the floor by 5-10 centimeters. And the boards will not be needed later.
The pit is being poured concrete mortar. Gravel is mixed into it for strength.
Installed on the layer reinforcing mesh.
When the concrete will freeze(this will take days 2-3) you can pour the final layer of concrete.

Important! It is necessary to allow the foundation to dry well before building a furnace on it. If time permits, it is advisable to endure about a week. Then there will be no doubt about the strength of the foundation.

Making a Swede oven: the exact order

The exact order of installation of the system is as follows:

1st and 2nd a row - deaf.
From 3 rows the cleaning chamber originates, the blowing part begins there. Ash, particles of fuel accumulate in this place.
doors in the 3rd row should be installed as evenly as possible, it is important to navigate by level, otherwise, they simply will not close and open normally.
In the 5th row the combustion chamber appears.
Then install the oven.
From 6th row there is a formation of a place under the hob.
The formation of the air duct system begins.
The hob is most often placed on the 11th row.
Next comes the space required for the normal operation of the hob.
Drying chambers are formed. They start from 19-20 row.
From 29 rows usually mount a chimney, install a pipe.

Important! In each case, the masonry scheme different. This is quite reasonable, because in the designs of the system they have some differences. The unit with a sunbed is heated a little differently than with a fireplace. That is why it is so important to follow the diagrams and make a test layout without mortar.

About problems

Sometimes already after installation furnaces are having problems. For example:

Construction " collapsed" on the side. This means that the foundation is not dry enough. This is a big nuisance. The furnace will have to be disassembled and reassembled.
Bed not heated. This means that the air exchange system inside the furnace is incorrectly mounted. Probably, the furnace will have to be dismantled and checked according to the scheme, whether everything is done in strict accordance with it.
The stove or oven does not heat, which means it is open the fire is too far away from them due to the large number of rows. They need to be reduced, for this - to disassemble the system.
The smoke remains indoors - the chimney and pipe do not function. This issue needs to be addressed urgently to avoid an accident. The furnace is disassembled and checked for compliance with the scheme. The chimney can be very narrow, sometimes it needs to be widened.
Bake heats up very quickly and fast cools down. It is possible that the wrong and poor-quality brick was selected, which does not meet the state standard. To solve the problem, you have to redo all the work.

Avoid exploitation furnace structure, if the unit not functioning properly. It is better to take the time and redo it than suffer from carbon monoxide or a weak firebox.

Where is the best place to place a Swedish oven

A true friend and an excellent heater is a Swedish oven. It will become an indispensable assistant in the kitchen and the warmest item in the house. You need to position the unit away from doors and windows, in the place where the kitchen connects to the room.

Before laying bricks, it is desirable soak for two minutes- then the process will become more efficient. The brick will not draw liquid from the mortar and will not crack in the process.

Such a stove is not suitable for heating large rooms. Her maximum - 35 square meters. But the Swede is multifunctional: it serves for cooking, sleeping and relaxing, drying clothes and shoes.

Useful video

Check out the video, which demonstrates all the stages of building a Swedish stove, from the foundation to the chimney.

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Swede stoves differ from other heating and cooking stoves by the presence of a heating shield in the rear. This brick shield has a system of gas ducts: from vertical or horizontal. The smoke passing through them warms up the structure, and the rooms are already heated from it. The system turns out to be efficient and economical: the heat that went into the chimney in a traditional Russian stove is used for space heating. But both systems for constructing a shield (vertical and horizontal) have disadvantages.

With a horizontal arrangement of gas ducts, the entire shield is heated evenly. But, such a system needs a large number of cleaning holes and, accordingly, doors on them. Given that furnace casting is quite expensive today, these doors significantly affect the final cost.

With a vertical arrangement of gas ducts in a Swede, there can be one cleaning hatch. But there is another problem here: while the stove is heating, in the first channel, on the side where hot gases from the furnace enter, the shield will be noticeably hotter than in the third - at the exit. Since the shield is usually located in two rooms, one of them will be much warmer than the other.

There is also a third type of shield device: bell-shaped. It combines the advantages of both systems: one cleaning window is required, the entire surface is heated evenly, and less brick is required for construction. Moreover, with this construction, the stove cools down more slowly: the warmest air is kept in the tops of the caps for a long time, and the “draft” from the doors passes only in the center.

From all of the above, it follows that the most economical and efficient Swedes with shields built according to the bell principle. They are also easier to manage: it is possible to organize a “summer” and “winter” mode of operation, in which either only a small part of the shield (in summer) or the entire heating power is switched on: in winter. There is even a variant of a Swedish stove with three firing modes: an “autumn” mode is also added, in which a little more than half of the chimney channels participate in the smoke circulation.

Swede stove with three firing modes

Traditional options for building a Swedish oven do not provide for any modes. In this regard, especially in winter, it can be difficult to melt it: while the long chimney channel heats up, smoke can enter the room. If there is at least a "summer" mode, warming up is faster. With the valve closed (in summer mode), the Swede is also melted in winter, opening it after the working piece of the chimney warms up. During this time (five minutes from the moment of kindling), a temperature difference sufficient for normal traction is created and the entire shield can be connected to work.

Although two modes are better than one, three is even better. In case of autumn-spring weather, the Swede V. Grigoriev's stove has three firing modes, including the "autumn" one. We will lay out the order of this furnace below.

Materials and spare parts

This Swede with an oven is not very large: the order contains 30 rows (31st and 32-1 are the formation of a pipe). The dimensions of the described furnace are 1140 * 760 mm and 210 cm high (plus a pipe). For laying without taking into account the pipe you need:

red full-bodied kiln brick - 480 pcs;
for laying the firebox, SHA-8 is used - refractory bricks - 129 pcs;
oven 280*370*310 mm;
cast iron stove with two burners 410 * 710 mm;
grate - 250 * 300 mm;
cast iron door for fuel loading 210*250 mm;
blower door - 140 * 250 mm;
door to the cleaning hole - 70 * 130 mm;
valves:
- on the chimney, "summer" and "winter" mode - 130 * 250 mm - 3 pcs;
- "autumn" mode - 205 * 250 mm;
steel corner - to strengthen the "hanging" rows - thickness 5 mm, size 50 * 50 mm, length 730 mm - 2 pcs.
sheet metal strip 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide, long
- 1020 mm
- 730 mm - 2 pcs,
- 500 mm - 2 pcs;
- 320 mm - 2 pcs;
- 250 mm.
pre-furnace steel sheet - 500 * 700 mm.

Swede oven with three modes: ordering and DIY

In the figures, the ceramic brick is brown, fireclay is indicated in yellow. There are also graphic images (see photo).

The first two rows are laid solid. It is very important to maintain the correct geometry: the angle is strictly 90 °, the diagonals are the same. rows are placed with dressing.

For laying the third row, fireclay bricks (14 + 1/2) and one red are used. The formation of the ash chamber and the compartment where the oven will be installed begins. A lower cap and a vertical channel are formed, suitable for it. The bricks that form the passage between the oven hood and the oven chamber are sawn at an angle of approximately 30-40°.

Note! Cleaning holes are left on the side walls - brick quarters are inserted into them - they protrude 100 mm beyond the walls. In the same row, the ash pan door is installed.

Fourth row - metal strips cover the ash pan door

The fourth row is similar to the previous one. With the difference that the passage between the oven chamber and the hood is made smaller - it is 180 mm. Two metal strips 320 mm long are installed above the installed ash pan door (it is not shown in the figure) (the bricks are slightly sawn so that the strips lie in the recesses and another 2-3 mm remain to the edges of the recess to compensate for thermal expansion). In order for the doors to hold well, experienced stove-makers connect these plates to the frame of the door by drilling through holes (if the casting is cast iron, this is not worth doing).

In the fifth row, bricks are laid on the strips - the ash pan door is closed. In the same row, a grate is laid. Bricks are also turned under it, and so that the size of the “couch” is 3-4 mm larger around the entire perimeter - for the thermal expansion of cast iron (steel).

In this and the next few rows, the masonry is completely carried out with fireclay bricks. Please note that the passage between the oven chamber and the hood has become even smaller: it is 100 mm.

The sixth row begins the formation of the firebox. Please note that two bricks at the entrance to it are cut to half (at 45 °). In the diagram, the cut bricks are marked in orange. In the same row, the passage between the hood and the oven chamber is blocked and the oven chamber itself is installed (in the following figures it will not be, so as not to overlap the pattern of bricks).

The sixth row of ordering - the formation of the firebox of the Swedish furnace

In the seventh row, the formation of the firebox continues, the door is installed.

The next three rows from the eighth to the tenth continue the formation of the fuel chamber, the oven is lined with bricks. Please note that more and more red bricks are becoming.

In the tenth row, the installed oven and the firebox door overlap. The wall between them in this row is not placed: both chambers are combined.

In the eleventh row on the left above the oven, two bricks are laid so that they protrude inward a few centimeters: the “summer” mode channel will then rely on them.

In the fireclay bricks of this row, a bed for a cast-iron hob is cut out. The dimensions of the bed are at least 5 mm larger than its dimensions to compensate for thermal expansion. The depth of cut is such that there is also a distance of at least 5 mm from the top row to the plate.

An asbestos cord is laid in the gaps around the perimeter. So that it does not clog with mortar during masonry, it can be covered with packing cardboard (it will burn out during heating).

After the cast-iron slab has been laid, its outer edge is covered with a metal corner. This is necessary so that the bricks are not damaged during operation.

In the 12th row, an area above the stove is formed - the cooking chamber. A channel is also formed in which smoke will pass during operation in the "summer" mode (to the left of the stove). So that in the future the width of the channel is exactly a brick, the edge of one of the bricks is cut obliquely.

In the 13th row, the formation of the lower cap ends: it is covered with ceramic bricks. Please note that bricks sawn along are installed there - so that there is a place to lay those that form the arch of the cap. In the fourteenth row, one brick of the vertical channel (on the right) is cut obliquely. The rest - according to the ordering scheme.

In the fifteenth and sixteenth row, the first horizontal channel is formed. In the 15th, a half of a brick protrudes from the right, covering the cleaning hole for this channel.

In the 17th row, in addition to forming the channel, a metal corner is installed, and two strips 730 mm long. They will serve as a support for the vault of the cooking chamber.

In the next, 18th, row, ceramic bricks are laid on the supports, covering the vault, leaving the exit from the "summer" channel on the left. The brick at the exit from below is cut at an angle of 45 ° (indicated in gray in the diagram).

Installing the "summer" mode damper

In the nineteenth row, the masonry is carried out according to the order. Some bricks are cut to install a valve on the "summer" channel in a Swedish oven, which can operate in three modes.

In the twentieth row, we begin to display the walls of the drying cabinet above the cooking chamber. The second horizontal channel immediately begins to form and the shutter of the “autumn” operating mode of the Swede is installed. This zigzag is placed vertically (bricks are also sawn under it).

Installing the shutter of the "autumn" mode of the Swedish oven

The twenty-first row of the Swede oven order prepares the "summer" channel for overlapping in the next row. In this row, the bricks in front and behind the channel are released a quarter inward and cut obliquely from below so that there is no step. A small opening remains on the front side - for installing a cleaning door.

This door is easier to make with your own hands: it should be a frame about 70 mm deep, inside of which a metal door is fixed. So that it does not overheat, it is laid from the inside with a brick cut to size, which is placed in the door on a clay mortar.

In the twenty-second row, the right "summer" channel is divided into two. The separating brick is hemmed from below so that the bevel to the right smoke channel rises (see the figure).

In the next, 23rd row, the "summer" and the second horizontal channels overlap. The horizontal channel on the right has an outlet, the outermost brick is cut from below at an angle of 45°. On the left side, bricks are cut for the installation of the "winter" mode damper, after which this damper is installed.

In the twenty-fourth row, the walls of the small drying chamber are laid out on the left. In the existing vertical channels, the bricks are slightly cut obliquely, at an angle of 45 ° (indicated in orange in the diagram).

In the 25th row, the third horizontal channel is combined with the existing two vertical ones. On the right, a brick sticks out of the wall, blocking the cleaning hole of this channel.

In the 26th row, the formation of a horizontal channel continues, and the bricks are also undermined for the installation of a damper.

In the twenty-seventh row, the brick that is laid behind the flap is cut at an angle of 45 °. Metal strips are laid on top of the laid bricks to support the floor. A strip of 1020 mm is fixed in front, two strips of 500 mm each cover a large drying chamber, one short by 250 mm - a small drying chamber.

The next row is the 28th, covering almost all channels. Moreover, it is larger than the previous one: the bricks protrude 3 cm from all sides. In the place where the main smoke channel passes, the bricks are cut in front and behind at an angle of 45 °. The undercut is at the front at the bottom, at the back at the top (gray and orange in the ordering chart).

The 29th row is even larger: the bricks also protrude 3 cm from all sides. The bricks in the area of the smoke channel are also cut, but now it is shifted 60 mm closer to the back wall.

In the 30th row, the overlap returns to its original dimensions. The channel is laid out with cut bricks, due to which it is still displaced by another 60 mm.

Do-it-yourself Swede oven is almost finished. Next comes the laying of the chimney. The scheme of its masonry is shown in the 31st and 32nd rows. Then it rises to the required height.

We hope this order will help you fold the Swede oven with your own hands. There is an option for an even more compact shvdka: baby ovens. It is described in the video.

A bit of history

What do you need from a Swede?

How does a Swedish work?

Oven-time

Upper niche

Niche above the stove

smoke circulation

Oven-two

Add-ons

Prelude to the next

How to build it?

Dimensions and proportions

firebox door

Masonry subtleties

Video: Swede oven masonry process

Metal in the furnace

Commissioning

We build a Swede: with a stove bench

Video: Swede oven with stove bench

with a fireplace

Almost a classic

Malaya dacha

About babies

Cap in swedish?

DHW from a Swede

Heat engineering

Boiler and heat exchanger

And yet it is possible!

How about registers?

Save on the weather

Video: three-mode swedish

Outcome

Foundation for the furnace

"Swede" with a fireplace

materials

Prices for clinker bricks

Furnace masonry

Video: Swede stove with a fireplace part

"Swede" with a couch

Swedish oven with hob and oven

Swede oven 2

Plate with shield 6

The device and features of the Swede oven

The process of building a Swedish

Swede oven orders

materials

Chimney

Modern brick Swedish oven

Types of stoves with masonry schemes and ordering

Conventional Swedish oven with stove

Stove with hob and oven

Swede oven with fireplace

Stove with stove bench

How to fold a small oven with your own hands

Project selection

Photo

How to choose brick and other materials

Instrument preparation

Foundation pouring

Making a Swede oven: the exact order

About problems

Where is the best place to place a Swedish oven

Useful video

Swede stove with three firing modes

Materials and spare parts

Swede oven with three modes: ordering and DIY