It is the pruning of remontant raspberries that distinguishes the care of this variety from its other varieties. Many gardeners prefer to grow this species because, although it requires more attention, it is famous for its yield.
Raspberries are planted in rows. Between the seedlings, pegs are necessarily driven in and a wire is pulled for support. Pruning is required, as the bush needs a lot of space. On each square meter, you need to leave a maximum of four stems, removing the extra ones.
Pruning remontant raspberries is carried out in two stages: in the first and second years of life. Some are limited to one time, however experienced gardeners believe that the maximum effect in this case can not be obtained.
In the first year of the life of the bush, when the shoots grow up to one hundred and twenty centimeters or more, pruning remontant raspberries consists in elementary pinching of the tops with secateurs. After that, the plant stops growing upward, but powerful side shoots begin to develop in it. And it is on them next year that there will be the most berries. 
The first pruning of remontant raspberries should be done in the spring to allow the side shoots to develop normally.
In general, the fruiting of this occurs, like in other species, on two-year shoots. However, annual lateral shoots are very prolific. But since the bush spends a lot of energy on the first crop and on the formation of shoots for the second, agronomists offer a special technology for growing a remontant raspberry variety.
The shoots that have grown in the first year are covered in July with flowers, which turn into berries in August. It is these stems that experts offer to clean. Pruning remontant raspberries in the fall consists in cutting off all, without exception, three-centimeter "stumps". Naturally, before that, all the berries from the bushes should already be collected.
The final processing carried out before the onset of cold weather helps the plant to overwinter well. Autumn pruning of remontant raspberries involves the removal of all shoots that have already yielded from their very base, as well as weakened young stems. Such a “total” formation of a bush also frees the berry plant from many pests, for example, from the larvae of the gall midge or spider mites, from the pathogens of purple spotting.
In the second year in spring, the same bush is cut off again, while the side shoots developed from the main trunk are again removed. This procedure is done in the spring to allow new shoots to mature as early as possible. On the side branches, the tops are pinched with a pruner to the first, and sometimes to the second strong kidney. In this case, new shoots will come from them, giving berries.
In the southern regions, the formation of remontant raspberry bushes is carried out in one, and not in two years. First, the tops are cut off, and already in the middle of summer, somewhere in July, when the lateral processes are already quite developed, they are pinched. This method is suitable for all varieties of raspberries.
Some gardeners lightly pinch off the tops of all shoots in May. This is done so that the fruiting of this horticultural crop begins a little later and lasts a longer time.
Breeding remontant raspberries requires special skills for a guaranteed result. Only when proper fit, care, including pruning, in the midst of the season, you can get full baskets of delicious berries.
Hello friends and readers!
Today I’ll tell you about how to prune remontant raspberries in the fall. How to do it right, when is it better to do trimming, why trim it at all.
Let's clarify first what types of raspberries grow in our gardens.
- Regular two year old raspberry. In the first year shoots grow, on which berries ripen the next year. It dries up by winter.
- Repair raspberry . Gives berries on the shoots of this year. It can produce two crops - in summer and autumn. If we leave the shoots for the second year, it turns into an ordinary raspberry.
- Semi-Repair Raspberry. This is an ordinary raspberry, but strong young shoots can give the first berries in the fall. If the weather is warm for a long time, then flowers and berries form at the ends of the shoots. It is often confused with remontant and cut out in the fall at the root, depriving oneself of the next year's harvest. In such raspberries, only the ends of the branches with flowers are removed., and on the rest of the shoot next year there will be a regular harvest.
When we got it right what is remontant raspberry, you can speak
Wanting to get two crops, gardeners try to leave remontant raspberry shoots for the second year. It will bear fruit in summer and autumn, but the harvest will be worse and less than from a one-year-old shoot. It is better to cut the entire remontant raspberry, do not leave anything. In the summer, harvest from ordinary raspberries, and from August until cold weather with remontant. New varieties bear fruit for two months or more.
The best time for pruning
The best time is in late autumn, before the cold. So that the nutrients from the shoots pass into the roots. Pruning do right under the root near the ground, stumps do not need to be left. If suddenly you did not have time to do this in the fall, try to cut off all the shoots early in the spring. Sometimes shoots are specially left until spring, so that more snow lingers. It is necessary to cut in the spring before bud break, otherwise the plants will waste their energy in vain.
Circumcision Features
Sometimes a part of the shoot is left for fruiting in the summer. As I said, these berries will take a lot of strength from the plant, and the autumn harvest will be later and less. In the southern regions, where autumn is warm for a long time, this option still passes. Well, in more severe areas, it is better to get a high-quality autumn harvest, and there are raspberries until the very frosts. Moreover, new varieties form many side shoots in summer, and then they are all hung with berries. After pruning planting raspberries. Any organic matter here will come in handy - leaves, needles, hay, straw, grass.
When to prune a young shoot of remontant raspberries
If you have a young seedling, then in the fall you do not need to cut it. And take your time in the spring. Let a young shoot appear when it grows up to 10 cm, then remove last year's shoot. Before that, he will nourish both the root system and give strength for a new shoot. And do not forget to mulch autumn plantings so that they do not freeze out in winter.
Pruning raspberries in the south
For the northern regions, pruning remontant raspberries in the fall is best, but here in the south ... Winter can be warm with long thaws, and raspberries will begin to grow. Therefore, it is better to postpone pruning until early spring.
Let's summarize how to prune remontant raspberries in the fall:
- We determine which raspberries grow in your area.
- We cut off the repair near the ground, leaving nothing.
- We start pruning after frosts, in late autumn.
- In southern regions with warm winters, pruning is carried out in early spring.
- Mulch the ground after pruning.
Useful video about repair raspberries
For more than a dozen years, remontant raspberry varieties have been known in horticulture, which bear fruit both on annual and biennial shoots. Tasty and healthy fruits from such bushes can be harvested twice a season. But to get good harvest, you need to know - how to plant, grow and how to cut remontant raspberries?
Repair raspberry is a perennial shrub that grows up to one and a half meters in one season. Its main roots penetrate the soil to a depth of up to thirty centimeters, and adnexal roots spread in all directions from the plant. However, some remontant varieties form little root growth.
The shrub begins to bear fruit in the summer, and in the fall you can harvest another crop of large-fruited berries from it. Berries of remontant varieties are distinguished by excellent taste, high quality and universal use. The plant is resistant to pests and diseases, therefore it does not have wormy fruits.
The best varieties of repair raspberries
There are a lot of varieties of culture, so it is rather difficult to name the best of them. All of them are divided into early, middle and late.
On early varieties, the fruits begin to ripen at the end of July. The most popular of them are:
Medium raspberry fruits ripen in the second half of August:
- Firebird - large-fruited productive variety, whose berries have a juicy, tender pulp and a sweet and sour dessert taste.
- Golden Autumn - raspberries with elongated conical golden yellow fruits weighing up to 7 g;
- Mulatto is an abundantly fruiting variety resistant to pests and diseases, the fruits of which have a refreshing, sweet and sour taste:
- The orange miracle is a variety that bears fruit until frost, which is resistant to diseases and bright orange large fruits weighing up to 12 g.
Remontant raspberries of late varieties bears fruit in late August and September:
- Heritage is a disease-resistant and winter-hardy variety with fragrant, round, red berries;
- Zyugan raspberry - Swiss mid-late variety, which is distinguished by drought resistance and tasty berries weighing up to 10 g;
- Otm Trezhe is a pest and disease resistant raspberry with juicy, dense, light red fruits that ripen in late summer - early autumn.
Gallery: repair raspberries (25 photos)
Landing features
Seedlings can be planted on the garden plot both in spring and autumn. Many experienced gardeners recommend planting crops in open ground at the end of September.
Planting remontant raspberries in autumn
The site must be well lit and protected from the winds. In the shade, the plant will bear fruit later, and the harvest will not be very plentiful.
For good growth, development and fruiting, the culture needs fertile, light, moist soils. It is best if it is nutritious loam. Ground limestone, marl or dolomite is added to acidic soil. The acidity index of the soil should be in the range of 5.8–6.7 pH.
It is not recommended to plant raspberries after tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or raspberries. The best predecessors for it will be green manure crops (lupine, rye, mustard), which can be plowed into the ground a month and a half before site preparation.
When planting seedlings in the fall, the site is prepared in the spring. To do this, the soil is freed from weeds, fertilized with humus or peat (2-3 buckets per 1 sq. M) and dug up on a spade bayonet. Also, the soil should be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers (200–400 grams per 1 sq. M) or potassium sulfate and superphosphate (1 cup per 1 sq. M).
In autumn, holes of 40x40x40 cm in size are prepared for seedlings. The distance between rows should be at least 150 cm, and between holes - 70 cm.
The suitability of seedlings for planting is determined by the following criteria:
- shoot length about 20 cm;
- diameter of the base of the shoot - from 5 mm;
- well-developed roots without damage;
- kidneys should not be dry;
- the bark adjacent to the wood cut from the seedling should be green.
The dried root system of the plant is soaked for a day or more in a solution of a root formation stimulator. Before planting, it should swell.
In the prepared hole the seedling descends to the root collar, which after backfilling the soil should be on the same level with the soil surface. If the substrate is sandy, then the neck can be deepened into it by 4 cm. The planted plant is well watered, and the soil around it is sprinkled with mulch.
For planting remontant raspberries in spring, the site is prepared in autumn, and seedlings are planted in May-June.
How to care for remontant raspberries?
Culture requires some care from spring to autumn.
Caring for remontant raspberries in spring
In early spring when the soil has not yet thawed, you should already start caring for raspberry bushes. Around the beginning of March, mineral fertilizers must be applied to the soil. Phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen are introduced into fertile soils, and poor soil is additionally fertilized ammonium nitrate(per 1 sq. m - 20 g, diluted in 10 liters of water).
In April sanitary pruning is carried out, during which dried shoots are removed, and frozen ones are cut to the first healthy bud.
First week of May preventive treatment of bushes with fungicides (Ridomilin or Topaz) is carried out.
At the end of May plants are treated with Aktifit, Lepidocide or other biological insecticides that will prevent the appearance of pests.
Raspberries do not like soil compaction and weeds, so every week after watering the soil should be weeded and loosened. The first loosening is carried out before the buds open to a depth of 5–8 cm between the bushes and 10–15 cm between the rows. At least four such loosenings should be carried out during the season. So that weeds do not grow, and the soil remains loose, it is recommended to mulch it.
Features of summer care
In summer the culture demands thorough and regular watering. On average, the soil is moistened once a week. In dry and hot months, the frequency of watering increases. The watered soil should get wet to a depth of 30–40 cm. It is especially important to monitor its moisture during budding, as well as the growth and formation of berries.
When the plants start to bloom they are fertilized with a nutrient solution, consisting of the following components:
- water - 10 l;
- double superphosphate - 3 tbsp. l;
- sulfate - 1 tbsp;
- superphosphate - 2 tbsp. l.
Tall varieties require a garter to the supports, which are installed three meters apart from each other. Between them, at a height of 50, 100 and 150 cm, a rope or wire is pulled.
Bushes growing in an open area on sunny days are covered with a thin spunbond or mesh. This is necessary so that the fruits do not burn.
Caring for remontant raspberries in the fall
Subject to all the rules for growing raspberries it will bear fruit until the coldest. During the second fruiting in the fall, the bushes are fed with the following solution:
- 10 liters of water;
- 1 st. l. sulfate;
- 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate.
Before wintering, raspberries should be watered abundantly. In old bushes, spent shoots should be cut off, and in newly planted stems, they are cut to a height of 20 cm. The shoots will need to be completely cut off next year.
Preparing raspberries for winter, remove and burn old mulch and plant debris. After watering, the soil is loosened with the overturning of the layer. The soil between plants is mulched with humus or semi-rotted manure 8–10 cm thick.
Repair raspberries in one place can be grown for fifteen years. When the fruits begin to shrink and the yield decreases, the bushes are transplanted to a new place. To do this, they are dug up and divided into parts. The sections formed on the delenki are processed with crushed coal before planting.
When to prune remontant raspberries?
When growing a crop, to trim the stems, taking into account the characteristics of the shrub. In addition to sanitary pruning in early spring, shrub stems are pruned in preparation for winter and to increase yields in June.
Features of sanitary pruning
In varieties that give a lot of root shoots, spring should remove root cuttings, leaving no more than 10-15 stems per square meter of plot. Of these, half of the shoots should be biennial, and half should be annual.
Cut off the frozen parts of the stems after the buds swell. Then it will be seen which of them are frozen and need to be removed. It is not recommended to cut the tops of healthy bushes, otherwise fruiting will be delayed.
Pruning remontant raspberries in autumn
Raspberries should be prepared for winter, for which, after fruiting, many experienced gardeners cut all the stems to the root. This is done in order to destroy the pests and pathogens that have settled on the old plant. In spring, the plant will give new shoots that will quickly grow, bloom and bear fruit well.
The culture can be propagated by root or green cuttings and root offspring.
Reproduction by green cuttings
In the spring, when new shoots grow to 3-4 cm, they are cut to a depth of about 5 cm and taken out along with a clod of earth. Places of cuts are sprinkled with crushed coal . For cuttings holes are prepared in the greenhouse with a mixture of peat and river sand. Cuttings are planted in the garden at the same depth. The distance between them should be 5 cm, and between rows - 10 cm.
Care for young plants is to protect against overheating and timely watering. They should be hardened, for which the greenhouse is periodically opened. After the cuttings get stronger and get used to the fresh air, they are transplanted to a permanent place.
Propagation by root cuttings
You can get a cutting from the root during the autumn loosening of the soil in the raspberries. A root with a diameter of 2 cm is cut with a pruner or a sharp knife into pieces about 10 cm long. A groove is prepared for the segments, the depth of which should be about 6 cm. Parts of the root are planted in it in a continuous row. The soil is watered and covered with a layer of mulch. The next spring and summer, the emerging plants should be carefully looked after. In the fall, they can be transplanted to a bed prepared in advance.
Reproduction by root offspring
Many remontant varieties do not form root shoots, so this propagation method is suitable for those varieties that give rise to roots. A shoot is used that has reached a height of 10–15 cm. It should be dug up, transplanted into a prepared temporary bed, watered and shaded from the sun. After about two weeks, the shoots will take root, and they can be accustomed to the sun, removing protection for this. Seedlings that have grown by autumn are transplanted to their new place.
Growing raspberries in the backyard is troublesome, because the plant requires special care. After all, even if you skip pruning, you can be left without a crop. However, by putting into practice all our tips for growing remontant raspberries, you will end up with big harvest large, healthy and tasty berries.
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