Infusion of garlic. Grind in a meat grinder 200 gr. garlic, insist for 2-3 days in 10 liters of water, add 20-30 gr. soap (for sticking), strain and spray tomatoes 4 to 5 times per season with an interval of 2 weeks.

If there is a serious threat of mass infection, then you can use the permitted method of protection against late blight: spraying every ten days with a solution of Bordeaux liquid (1%). Processing must be stopped ten days before the expected collection of ripened fruits.

Do not deepen your landings strongly. Remove aging leaves in a timely manner, in open ground this is done up to the first brush of tomatoes, and in greenhouses up to the second and third. The less leaves come into contact with the soil, the lower the risk of infection with the fungus.

The development of the insidious phytophthora fungus is provoked by: an abundance of precipitation and low temperatures at night. Usually, the first signs of this disease appear on potato plantings, and only then the fungus spreads to tomatoes. In 2013, in many areas of the middle lane, crop losses due to the mass defeat of phytophthora exceeded the damage from all other diseases. Phytophthora pathogens overwinter on the remains of plants, on the structures of greenhouses, greenhouses and in the soil layer. The wind helps spread the spores of the fungus to different areas. His assistant in this "black" business are raindrops. The infection can be completely transmitted through shoes, clothing items, affecting more and more new plants. The progression of the pathological process intensifies in the second half of summer. But at this time, fruiting is in full swing - clusters of long-awaited tomatoes hang on the plants, gradually turning brown and reddening. Moreover, specimens of late varieties and those that were planted late suffer the most. In greenhouses, this disease can also be harmful. A source, a hotbed of a pathogenic fungus, can be diseased potato tubers in the soil that have overwintered the remains of affected plants that have not been harvested in time. The spread of the disease is facilitated by abundant cold dews, fogs that have charged rains, low daytime temperatures, and relative humidity exceeding 75%. Only the establishment of dry and hot weather can save the situation.

Copper - helps well against phytophthora. Preparations with copper are used to combat and prevent the disease. The drugs are used

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How to deal with late blight in tomatoes on the site

Mulch the ground. A good prevention would be spraying plantings and land with phytosporin and trichodermin biological products even before the onset of the disease. They suppress the spread of diseases. 1. Phytophthora usually appears on tomatoes in August, after cold nights and foggy damp matinees. But tomatoes can get sick even earlier - in July. Favorable weather for the development of the disease is a temperature below + 15 ° C and high humidity.

The solution must be prepared immediately before spraying - the next day it is no longer suitable for treating plants.

Tomatoes need to be watered only at the root
Already in February, when the ground is still covered with snow, many gardeners begin to take care of the future harvest: they buy seeds, prepare planting boxes and greenhouses. Growing tomatoes from small seeds, surrounding them with care, everyone hopes to get beautiful, juicy and ripe fruits as a result, but the dreams of some owners are not destined to come true. And all the fault of the disease, which in a short time destroy the plant. The question of how to deal with late blight on tomatoes is of interest to many, because the disease can nullify all efforts and completely destroy the crop.
Prepare an infusion of crushed leaves and stalks of nettle (1.5 kg per 10 liters). This infusion treats the soil around the bush and the plants themselves. Herbal treatments are absolutely harmless, they can be carried out throughout the growing season and even during harvesting. Another permitted drug is copper oxychloride. It is taken for 10 liters of water 40 grams. A liter of such a solution is taken per square meter of plantings. But you can collect fruits only after 20 days.
Do not get carried away with watering too much. Two weeks before the expected final harvest, many gardeners stop moisturizing altogether. Moreover, watering should be carried out only at the root, so that the spray does not fall on the leaves and stems. Water for irrigation is taken from the one that warmed up during the day, that is, not icy from the tap. In tomatoes, the root system is well developed, if necessary, the roots will take moisture from the deep layers of the soil.
The first signs of the disease are not difficult to notice. First, large brown spots appear along the edge of the leaf plate. If the humidity is high in the morning, then turning the leaf over, you will find a whitish coating from below (a symptom of sporulation). Next comes the yellowing of the leaves, their browning intensifies, and then the drying follows. The disease captures the stems, moves to green fruits. The gardener approaches the garden, and on the tomatoes he sees brown-brown spots of a blurry type. They are also present inside the fetus. It happens that when harvesting the spots are not yet visible, but they make themselves felt after a few days. Tomatoes laid out for ripening and storage are rapidly turning black.

Hom, Polyhom, Oksikh

Also, to protect the tomatoes in the greenhouse, do not plant potatoes and open ground tomatoes nearby so that the spores from them do not get into the greenhouse.

Photo blight on tomatoes

2. Thickened plantings contribute to the appearance of phytophthora. Therefore, excess leaves must be cut off to improve the ventilation of the bushes.

It is important not to miss the first spraying since the formation of the lower tier of fruits.

. People say: "In tomatoes, the legs should be wet, and the head should be dry."

Basically, in July, problems begin with both greenhouse seedlings and those that grow in open ground. It is during this period that phytophthora appears on tomatoes. How to deal with this disease and is it possible to save plants? Of course, it is best to carry out prophylaxis back in June; for this, drugs such as Zircon and Fitosporin are suitable. Outdoor tomatoes are easier to save because they can be treated with one of the solutions containing copper. After that, the fruits can not be eaten for 3 weeks. In the greenhouse, it is impossible to spray the tops with copper solutions, since the tomatoes are used immediately.

At the end of July, you can spray with a solution of coniferous concentrate at the rate of 1 tbsp. concentrate powder per 10 liters. water.

Of the modern effective antifungal agents, we will name Ridomil Gold, Thanos, Bravo.

Fight weeds that create darkening, excessive moisture. Periodically loosen the soil under plantings, especially in wet weather.

So that late blight does not touch your diligently grown tomato bushes, special attention should be paid to preventive measures. First of all, this is the right agricultural technique.

, They can be bred directly in cold water in a watering can (according to instructions).

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Phytophthora on tomatoes. How to treat plants in the open field and greenhouse

At the end of June, you need to spray the tomatoes in the greenhouse with a phytosporin biological product for prevention. Constantly cultivate the land under the tomatoes.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

It is necessary to strengthen plants from a young age. Temper. It is enough to fertilize and feed (without fanaticism and excesses, of course). Water with infusion of ash during fruit ripening. So that they are strong and strong, then it will be easier for them to fight diseases. But nitrogen fertilizers (mullein, herbal infusions) should not be fed in the second half of summer - this weakens the plants, they get sick faster.

What is phytophthora? Signs of illness

3. Watering tomatoes on the leaves also helps them get sick. Therefore, late blight often appears in open ground after rainy cold weather. The second treatment is carried out 10 days after the first. We carry out the third treatment as needed - depending on the weather.

Be sure to tie up the bushes, the fruits should not lie on damp ground.

How to save tomatoes from phytophthora without resorting to drugs that are hazardous to health? Alternatively, you can use 5% iodine, at the rate of 1 ml per 1 liter of water. First you need to completely cut off the affected leaves, these include yellow and black spots, then you need to spray the stem and fruits abundantly. Re-treatment is carried out after 3 days. So that the solution does not roll off the leaves, you can add soap to it.

Milk and whey help protect tomatoes from disease. These dairy products, in addition to biologically active substances, useful microelements, contain lactic acid bacteria, which are afraid of the late blight pathogen. For spraying take 2 liters. milk or whey per 10 liters of water.

Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes?

Preparations for combating phytophthora should be used as soon as the first signs of the development of infection are detected, when it is just starting to come out of the soil, it wants to hit the plants, then you will protect your plantings from late blight, which is dangerous and detrimental to fruits.

Conditions for the development of phytophthora

If you plant tomatoes in greenhouses, then it is better to do this in carbonate ones, without thickening the planting, by conducting frequent airing.

Reliable means of protection - properly selected varieties. Absolutely resistant varieties have not yet been bred. But there are relatively stable, capable of producing crops before a mass riot of late blight, which MirSovetov will list:

You can make your own solution. Add a bar of laundry soap for sticking and a bag of blue vitriol to a bucket of water. You can also treat the bushes with infusion of wood ash.

Preparations with copper should not be used - after all, there is always a ripening crop in the greenhouse. It is better to use folk methods. The same infusions of garlic, onion or milk solution. They are described in folk recipes later in the article.

For prevention, water the earth with drugs

4. Low temperatures are also a reason for preventing tomatoes from late blight.

How to save tomatoes from late blight

It would be nice to plant marigolds among the tomato bushes. No matter what anyone says, the smell of these flowers repels pests.

If you are interested in the question of how to deal with late blight on tomatoes, then you should try to mulch the soil under the plants. This method greatly reduces the chances of the appearance of this disease, because it is caused by spores of a microfungus that lives in the soil. If you are interested in how to deal with late blight on tomatoes in a safe way, then you should buy a 10% solution of calcium chloride at the pharmacy, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1: 4. With the resulting preparation, it is necessary to spray the sepals of flowers and the stalk, because late blight gets on the fruits from them.

A good result is sprayed with a solution of wood ash, which contains all the trace elements necessary for normal life. And the alkalis present in it also have a detrimental effect on many plant infections. The solution is prepared as follows: 250-300 g of ash is diluted in 10 liters of water, soap is added and processed.

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Periodically dust the soil with ash around the trunks, this noticeably inhibits the development of phytophthora.

Otradnye, Danko, Buyan;

If all folk remedies have been tried and do not help, then you have to use chemistry. There are many different tools in garden stores. The most working are fungicides. Spores of the disease also adapt to different chemicals, so they will have to be alternated so that there is a different composition. They must be used carefully. Just before fruit ripening. If the tomatoes are already beginning to pour, then chemistry cannot be applied. Poison your harvest.

You can spray tomatoes simply with iodine water. Take 10 ml of ordinary 5% iodine per bucket of water. Before use, remove all yellowed and diseased leaves with dark spots. Spray completely bushes and fruits. After 3 days, repeat the procedure.

How to cultivate the land after phytophthora

phytosporin If the weather is dry and sunny, then infection usually does not occur. Spores die in the sun. Phytophthora often affects tomatoes, and therefore it is important for gardeners to protect their tomatoes in the second half of summer. How to protect tomatoes from late blight, how to save diseased bushes? What drugs to use from phytophthora, and what folk remedies will help from the disease. How to process tomatoes in a greenhouse to keep them from late blight? I recommend that everyone remember and not tempt fate: phytophthora to varying degrees (depending on the weather) has always been, is and will be, and you must be constantly ready for it. Knowing how to deal with late blight on tomatoes, you can save at least part of the crop. At the first sign, you need to immediately cut off the unset flowers, because, on the one hand, they are a source of infection, and on the other hand, they draw juices from the bush, preventing the ripening of the formed fruits. Next, remove all spoiled, as well as lower leaves. The plant should gradually get rid of them, and by mid-July, only the top should be left, covering the last pouring brush.

How to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse

During the summer, you can spray several (3-5 times) with potassium permanganate with a slightly pink solution. It will protect against damage by various diseases and at the same time is a foliar top dressing.

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Do not abuse the application of nitrogen fertilizers. The introduction of fresh manure, excess nitrogen contribute to late blight. Fruit ripening is accelerated by the introduction of potassium and phosphorus, these elements increase resistance to the disease.
Tatyana, Dubrava, Profitable, Little Prince;
Chemical remedies are also not a panacea. You need to start using them from seedling age and repeat the treatments several times. Especially if the summer is rainy and cold.

What to do with late blight on tomatoes if it appeared in the greenhouse?

The best treatment is disease prevention. You need to try to avoid adverse conditions.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Garlic infusion

The first symptoms of the disease appear where moisture lasts longer - on the lower leaves. All bushes should be inspected daily and protective measures should be taken - for example, spraying with garlic infusion.

At the end of the same month, you should pinch the tomatoes to stop their growth. In order for the fruits to ripen sooner, it is necessary to create a stressful situation for the plant. To do this, you can cut off part of the roots, thereby reducing the supply of nutrients, reduce watering, and do not feed. Under such conditions, tomatoes will accelerate the ripening of fruits.

Milk solution or whey

Spray the ground around the stem and ovary with Fitosporin after 2 weeks.

You should know that phytophthora is a fungus that is in the ground. It can infect all plants within a few days and destroy the crop. Therefore, you need to know under what conditions this disease appears.

Salt solution

Calcium is a good protector against fungal infections, so it is useful to spray with calcium nitrate.

Orange pear, Carrot, Japanese tree, Sunny;

By and large, there are no such varieties. All tomatoes are affected by late blight. Although in recent years cherry varieties have been bred that can withstand the invasion of phytophthora. I haven't tried growing them yet. Early varieties can be conditionally considered resistant to phytophthora. They just have time to give the harvest earlier.

Treatment of late blight on tomatoes in the open field

To prepare garlic infusion, take 200 grams of garlic (can be replaced with onions) and insist in a bucket of water for a day. After filtering, spray diseased plants and tomatoes. Spraying is repeated every 2 weeks. trichodermin Tomatoes love dry weather. Strong humidity in warm weather, and even faster in cool weather, leads to disease. It begins with the lower leaves, where more moisture accumulates. It is necessary to constantly check the lower leaves and if they begin to darken, immediately remove them.

Late blight

We take 150-200 g of garlic on a bucket of water, chop it, pour it with water and insist for several hours, and add soap to stick the solution to the leaves.

Phytophthora is a fungal disease that occurs when the earth is waterlogged and there is a lack of sunlight. And they get infected from the earth

Varieties resistant to late blight

10 drops of iodine, 2 tbsp. l of ash, 2 l of serum per 10 l of water, mix everything and process once every two weeks.

Appears in cold and wet weather. First of all, the lower leaves are affected (dark spots appear on them), then the whole plant and fruits on it.

How to save harvested tomatoes from phytophthora

To speed up the setting of small fruitlets, you need to spray the foliage with a solution of boric acid, which is prepared from 10 liters of water and a teaspoon of boric acid. It takes about a liter of solution per square meter of planting. This is how foliar top dressing is done.

Is it possible to eat tomatoes with phytophthora

White filling 241, Grand, Grotto;

Photo of Cherry variety in a greenhouse

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Phytophthora on tomatoes

Milk is diluted in water (100 grams per liter) and tomatoes are sprayed. You can replace milk with kefir. Lactic acid bacteria prevent late blight from developing. You can add a few drops of iodine to milk water. Such spraying will not only help against phytophthora, but will also serve as fertilizer for your tomatoes. It is better to repeat every 2 weeks too.

Why does phytophthora occur?

. If there was a mass disease, then you need to burn all the diseased bushes and pour the fungicide on the ground.

anxiety symptoms

As already mentioned, it is imperative to cut off excess leaves and stepchildren from tomatoes. The lower leaves are harvested to the first ripening brush constantly. Also cut off yellowing and drying leaves. It is important to create good ventilation for planting tomatoes.

Prevention measures

- This is a fungal disease, the spores of this fungus hibernate in the ground, but they mainly spread in potato tubers, in which they safely survive the winter, and wake up with spring plantings.

If the summer is bad, endless daily rains turn the earth into a swamp, then preventive spraying will not help here at all. We use Bordeaux mixture.
- Phytophthora tomatoes, potatoes and other garden plants
- Treatment with preparations containing copper is Hom, Oksikhom, Profit and others.
- You should remove the lower leaves to the fruit, then to the next one and pierce the trunk with a piece of copper wire at a distance of about 3 - 5 cm from the ground.
- When you have already harvested the entire crop, then burn all plant residues. The soil should then be dug up and disinfected.
- Barnaul canning, Siberian early, Ranetochka;
- You can save part of the crop if the disease has already attacked the plantings. To do this, warm the fruits in hot water. Pour water at 60 ° C into a basin and lower the tomatoes there. You need to keep them until warm, but do not cook. The hand usually tolerates such a temperature a little. But it is better to look at the thermometer and add hot water when cooling. Then the tomatoes are dried and sent to ripen.
You can spray tomatoes with a whey solution (diluted with water 1 to 1) - the effect is the same as from a milk solution. This solution is good to use for prevention all summer. Without waiting for the onset of the disease.
In the greenhouse, tomatoes are well protected from late blight. Even if it is cold and damp outside, they have many advantages. The greenhouse creates its own climate, which can be regulated. Do not forget to ventilate, as well as about prevention.
You can cover the top rows of tomatoes with a film or covering material so that it hangs down on the sides without touching the ground. This will keep the airing, and the tomatoes will be sheltered from the cold night dews.
Therefore, the first phytophthora affects potatoes, and then the spores fly to the tomatoes. Phytophthora begins with the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves, then they pass to the stems and fruits. The lower leaves are affected first. The spots can be of different shapes and sizes. On the leaves at the beginning of the disease there is a whitish coating.
Bordeaux mixture is the least dangerous chemistry, besides, even if it rains every day, the leaves remain bluish for a long time.
There are no varieties of tomatoes resistant to late blight, but there are hybrids that are more resistant to this disease.
Do not water over the leaves and reduce the humidity in the greenhouse and increase the temperature in cold weather.
14 days after planting the seedlings on the beds (and then four more times every 10 days), it is useful to spray with this solution: 1.5 cups of chopped garlic (cloves or arrows) are taken for 10 liters of water, 1.5 grams of potassium permanganate. The infusion lasts 2 hours, followed by filtering and spraying.
Junior F1, Yagodka, Snezhana.
After such treatment by heating, late blight spores die and these tomatoes are completely edible. Well, you don’t want to eat sick fruits yourself - they are black. Green unripe tomatoes from diseased bushes can be used in winter salads and preparations.

Processing of tomatoes

Another popular wisdom advises spraying tomato bushes with a solution of simple table salt (one glass per bucket of water). This solution protects tomatoes from various diseases, after drying it forms a film on the fruit. After rains, it is necessary to repeat spraying.

Do not thicken landings.

Prevention of phytophthora can be called the complete mulching of the earth under planting tomatoes.

The fruits get sick through the stalk. They may remain clean at first, but brown spots also appear on them during storage. This disease can destroy all plantings of tomatoes in a few days.

Pour 8 liters of ordinary water into an enameled bucket, dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate in 1 liter of warm (about 50 °) water and pour this solution into the bucket, mix.

"Katya F1" Ultra-early hybrid from germination to fruiting 75 - 80 days. Resistant to the top of fruit rot, late blight, cracking.

A good remedy for phytophthora, after planting tomatoes, be sure to mulch the soil by 20 - 30 cm with dry grass, newspapers, covering material so that this fungus from the ground does not infect tomatoes.

Phytophthora resistance increases with such watering. First, a solution is made: 30 grams of potassium chloride and 40 drops of iodine tincture from a pharmacy are used for 10 liters of water. Pour 500 ml of this solution under each plant.

The second half of summer is characterized by a change in weather conditions, fogs appear, it becomes damp, which contributes to the development of late blight on tomatoes, as well as other vegetables and. Gardeners are taking various measures to protect vegetables, but if phytophthora has damaged tomatoes, you need to know how to properly deal with it and. There are various chemicals to combat phytophthora on nightshade crops, including tomatoes, and folk remedies, so timely measures taken will prevent the onset of the disease and preserve the vegetable crop.

There is an opinion that supposedly there are no such varieties of tomatoes that would resist late blight. However, breeders are doing a tremendous job of developing new varieties, including those resistant to late blight. And their achievements are encouraging. On the bag of seeds there is always a mark about the stability of the variety. When purchasing vegetable seeds, be sure to pay attention to the description and do not be lazy to read the features of the selected variety, so as not to be disappointed later.

Tomato hybrid varieties resistant to phytophthora include: Dragonfly, Parterre, Caspar, Blagovest, Dwarf, Snowstorm, Oak. You can add varieties to the list: Solerosso, lark, Gina, Kostroma.

Late blight is easier to prevent than to fight it, therefore, timely preventive measures taken will prevent the onset of the disease. And the fight must begin not at the time when the leaves of the vegetables turn black, but during the cultivation of tomato seedlings. Foliar processing is carried out several times per season. This is the only way to save plants and preserve the harvest.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

Late blight is a dangerous fungal disease that affects the stems and fruits of tomatoes. It is advisable to plant tomatoes away from potatoes, since it is the latter that gets sick first, and then the spores spread to tomatoes.

Disease prevention

When choosing tomato seeds, it is recommended to give preference to early varieties and hybrids. Early ones will have time to ripen ahead of time before the spread of the disease, and hybrid varieties are more resistant to late blight.
If the first signs of the disease are noticed, it is necessary to remove all the affected foliage and burn it.
In order to prevent during the ripening of fruits in vegetables, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied. This will boost immunity and increase resistance to phytophthora.
Land mulching is carried out near the plantings.
With the onset of cold nights, since the evening, tomatoes should be covered with spunbond or non-woven material. But you need to throw them only from the top to the middle of the bushes. That is, the covering material should not touch the ground. This technique protects plants from cold dew.
After harvesting, all bushes are harvested and burned.
For the purpose of additional processing, vegetables are sprayed with preparations " Barrier", "Oksikhom", "HOM", "Barrier".
Near tomatoes, you can plant curly beans, corn or peas. The plants will serve as a kind of backstage and protect the tomatoes.

Signs of plant disease

The first signs of late blight appear on the lower leaves of tomatoes. Dark spots take on a bizarre shape, and a white coating appears on them. The disease in vegetables spreads rapidly and after a couple of days all the foliage and stems of tomatoes turn black. Phytophthora enters the fruits through the stalk. At first, the fruits do not change their color, but over time, brownish spots appear on them, which darken and turn black.

The disease is dangerous because in a few days it can spread to all plantings and destroy the entire crop. Moreover, late blight affects both tomatoes growing in open ground and tomatoes grown in a greenhouse.

conditions conducive to disease

1. With high air humidity and large temperature differences: it is hot during the day and cold at night, phytophthora develops.

2. Overwatering and prolonged rains. To reduce soil moisture, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil in tomato plantings.

3. Thickening of landings. You can not plant vegetables close to each other. It is also necessary not to allow them to grow. To do this, cut off stepchildren and excess foliage.

4. Low temperatures. At this time, you need to sound the alarm and treat the plants in order to prevent the onset of the disease.

Folk remedies to combat late blight of tomatoes

Many vegetable gardeners do not want to stuff their tomatoes with chemicals, so folk remedies are used to combat late blight.

Whey or milk infusion

Milk, whey and kefir contain lactic acid bacteria that do not allow the disease to spread. With these products, you can spray tomato plantings all summer, as they are harmless.

To prepare an infusion with milk, 100 ml is diluted in 1 liter of water. product and sprayed on nightshade crops. You can add a drop of iodine to the solution, this will not only increase the plant's resistance to diseases, but also serve as fertilizer. If there is no milk, you can dilute kefir in the same proportion.

Spraying with serum is carried out as follows: it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and sprayed with plantings. You should not wait for the appearance of the disease, you can treat folk remedies for the entire growing season with an interval of 2 weeks.

Infusion of garlic or onion

For 10 liters of water, 200 gr. minced garlic or onion. A day later, the infusion is filtered and diseased tomatoes are treated. The interval between treatments is 2 weeks.

saline solution

Gardeners are much more inventive, and have come up with the idea of using available means to protect vegetables. Which is table salt. 250 grams of salt are dissolved in one bucket of water and tomatoes are sprayed. This solution, which protects not only against phytophthora, prevents the development of other diseases. After spraying, a protective film appears on the fruits and leaves, which does not allow spores to penetrate into the plant. Of course, this film is washed off by rain, so after rainy weather, the tomatoes must be processed again.

Feeding tomatoes with copper ions from phytophthora

This is an old proven way to protect vegetables from disease.

What is the principle of using copper wire

Initially, this method from phytophthora involved wrapping the roots of tomatoes before planting with copper wire. But the gardeners finalized it and began to wind the wire not only on the root system, but also pierce the stems of vegetables with it, and stick it into the ground between plantings.

Operating principle. A thin copper wire is taken, calcined and cut into pieces from 3 to 4 cm. After that, a through puncture is made on the stems of growing plants at a distance of 10 cm from the ground. The ends of the wire are not wrapped around the stem, but bent down.

For your information!

When performing such an operation, it should be remembered that punctures are made only after the stem has grown stronger.

Copper deficiency leads to a decrease in chlorophyll, vegetables are stunted in growth, some specimens of tomatoes die. The lack of copper also affects resistance to diseases.

How to put the method into practice

It is necessary to prepare a copper wire with a diameter of up to 1 mm, clean the insulation with a knife, remove the varnish coating with sandpaper. The wire is washed and cut into small pieces. Then it is necessary to pierce the stem through and through, and bend the ends of the wire down. Do not twist the remaining wire near the stem, as this will prevent the plants from developing properly.

The procedure should be carried out before transplanting or after it, when the vegetables are fully rooted. You can not pierce tomatoes during transplantation, only after 2 weeks. In the process of acupuncture, plants receive a lot of stress and need time to adapt.

On the stem of the seedlings, a puncture is made under the first true leaf. In grown-up tomatoes planted in the ground, punctures are made at a height of 10 cm from the hillock. In rainy summers, the wire is installed at a distance of 80-90 cm from the ground. Saturation of tomatoes with copper ions is a highly ecological method, harmless to the plant itself and humans. Copper is absorbed into the vegetative parts and cannot be washed away by rain.

The fight against late blight on tomatoes by chemical methods

Not every owner decides to spray vegetables with chemicals, but sometimes only they help protect and cure crops.

To prepare a solution for spraying tomatoes, you need to take potassium permanganate (aka potassium permanganate), copper sulfate and boric acid. All positions - 1 teaspoon.

At the beginning, all components should be separately steamed with boiling water, then combined, mixed and sprayed with plantings. It is recommended to spray three times with an interval of 7 weeks.

Each gardener uses available preparations for foliar treatment to prevent late blight, such as HOM, which can be purchased at specialty stores. But it is important to know that chemistry accumulates in the fruits of vegetables and during processing it is impossible to overdo it with a dose. It is required to carefully read the instructions with instructions and follow them exactly.

What to do with damaged vegetables

How to save tomatoes

The part of the crop affected by phytophthora can still be saved. To do this, there is a method of heat treatment of fruits. In the basin you need to pour water heated to 60 degrees, and place tomatoes in it. The fruits should warm up, but not boil! As it cools, you need to add warm water until the tomatoes warm up. Then the fruits are removed, dried and sent for ripening in a dark place or placed on the windowsill.

Can fruits be eaten?

Late blight spores die during heating, and such tomatoes can be eaten. If the disease has severely affected the fruits, they will turn black and heat treatment will not help them. But damaged green fruits of vegetables are used for canning.

This year it turned out that by the beginning of May I had 180 tomato seedlings. I planted as usual - with a margin, but, those to whom I usually gave it, suddenly took up seedlings themselves. I have 2 greenhouses and I planned to plant 100 roots. Where to put another 80? And they are all so strong, cheerful. 30 rastyukh nevertheless attached, the world is not without good people. I made a greenhouse of lutrasil ~ 120 cm high. I planted 30 tomato roots and cucumbers in it. In early July, the tomatoes grew above 120 cm and the greenhouse had to be removed.
The rest of the tomatoes (as well as peppers and eggplants) were planted in open ground, more precisely under a temporary shelter ~ 50 cm high made of thin lutrasil. This shelter had to be removed already in mid-June. But I can compare some varieties according to the growing conditions in the greenhouse and in the exhaust gas.
On business, I had to periodically leave for several days. And this year's summer was, to put it mildly, "unusual": then a week of +13 ... + 150С and rains, dampness; it was hot and sweltering like in Tashkent. And somehow, in early August, I return after 3 days to the dacha, I go into the greenhouse. All tomatoes stand with dry, brownish leaves. Heat +35 in the shade - probably "cooked". I must admit that in my absence, the greenhouses did not open early in the morning, but when someone remembered. That is, it happened that at noon.
I started spraying with water 2 times a day. Increased watering. Nothing helps! A council with neighbors decided that this is a disease: Fusarium wilt, Brown or White spotting, and even Bacterial cancer. Or maybe the beginning of phytophthora (especially since there were already signs of it in the exhaust gas). Specialists, man. Until this summer, I had not even met with the usual late blight. I just carried out all preventive measures, and this year too.
Undertook to treat EVERYTHING. In the greenhouse and in the exhaust gas. In the morning I sprayed with potassium permanganate with iodine. In the evening, phytosporin. The next morning - with blue vitriol, in the evening - Profit Gold, on the bag of which it was written that it was impossible to remove the fruits for 12 days! On the 3rd and 4th day, I sprayed with microelements, some kind of fertilizer. No changes. On the 5th day, I dropped everything and left with the firm intention of “Never grow tomatoes again in my life!”. Greenhouses left open around the clock. At home, I climbed into the Internet and determined for myself: most of all it looks like brown spotting (cladosporiosis). And it seems that all my treatments are on the case.
A week later, one of the neighbors calls: “Zhenya, and your tomatoes seem to be alive, they are turning red.” I went to the cottage. I approach the greenhouses, I see that everything inside is red. I took off a couple of tomatoes, washed them properly (Profit Gold!), I tried it. Normal tomatoes and correspond to varieties in size, color, taste. Cherry and some other Indians above 200 cm continued to grow, bloomed and bore fruit as if nothing had happened. Life is getting better! True, I never found anywhere whether such fruits can be eaten. Therefore, I use it without restrictions. True, this is what soon became clear. Some fruits, which do not differ in appearance, turned out to be very bitter, like cinchona. For some reason, more often - zheltoplodnye. Later, on some of the removed fruits, white spots appeared (like mold) at the point of attachment of the stalk. These fruits are bitter. Never encountered anything like it.
Where does this bitterness and white spots come from? From illness or from Profit Gold?
I did not take seeds from bitter fruits. And I took it from normal ones, but I doubt it. And suddenly this bitter infection lurked in all the fruits.

Tomatoes, like all vegetables that grow in our beds, are subject to a variety of diseases caused by fungi and bacteria. One of the most common among them is phytophthora. Although it will cause a lot of problems for tomatoes, it is still possible to fight it and overcome it.

To combat phytophthora, a lot of both folk and chemical agents are used.

Chemicals for treatment and protection

Common chemicals include:

. 10 tablets of this remedy are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the bushes are sprayed with it. The first time they are processed when the tomatoes are at the stage of ovary formation, and then the procedure is repeated 2 times a month.
Iodine. This is an antimicrobial agent. Because gardeners like to prepare a milky-iodine solution that will easily help you get rid of phytophthora. To prepare it, take 10 liters of water, a liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine.
Zelenka. 40 drops of this agent are dissolved in water and tomatoes are sprayed with it.
Potassium permanganate solution. This tool is an excellent antiseptic for seeds. They are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in this solution for 40 minutes. After that, rinse with water and dry well.

Folk preparations

Effective folk methods include:

. To prepare it, take 200 g of chopped garlic and dissolve it in a glass of warm water. After 24 hours, the substance is filtered and poured into 10 liters of water, adding a gram of sour-milk potassium there. For treatment, you need to sprinkle tomatoes.
Milk solution or whey. Any of these dairy products is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and, starting in July, tomato bushes are regularly sprayed with such a remedy for protection.
Salt solution. They need to process and protect the still green tomatoes. Such a tool forms a kind of film that will prevent the penetration of infection. To prepare it, a glass of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Step-by-step processing of tomatoes from phytophthora

As for planting in a greenhouse, tomatoes must be planted, alternating with cucumbers.

The soil in the greenhouse is a must in autumn disinfect with copper sulfate. If the plants have already been infected with phytophthora, then in the greenhouse it is necessary to remove the soil with a thickness of about 5 cm.

It should also be remembered that evaporation occurs in the greenhouse and stale air is present, and this favorably affects the development of bacteria. Therefore, be sure to regularly ventilate the greenhouse to protect plants from disease.

Outdoor care

It is necessary to plant plants not too densely so that there is no rapid infection with phytophthora. But if there is not too much space in the greenhouse, then the tomato should definitely pluck old leaves, because they are a favorite habitat of this disease.

To prevent an outbreak of late blight, it is necessary, first of all, to follow the rules of watering. No need to pour water on the leaves. It is necessary to water the plants under the root.

If it has already happened that the tomatoes could not resist this disease, then processing in order to save them should be carried out, provided that it didn't rain all day. You need to spray tomatoes in the evening or in cloudy but dry weather.

seedling care

Be sure to strengthen the immunity of tomato seedlings before planting them in the ground. For this, the following measures are taken:

before planting, the plants are treated 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture;
after half a month arceridoma;
after another half a month with foundationazole;
after that, the last 2 remedies are alternated.

The best remedy for late blight

Very effective in the fight against phytophthora are:

Ridomil gold. It protects the tomatoes from the outside and prevents the penetration of fungi into the inside of the tissues. To prepare this solution, you need to take 10 grams of the product and dilute it in 4 liters of water. They begin to process plants during the growing season, and then repeat every half a month.
. This drug has many advantages, as it is resistant to flushing and has a healing effect by killing fungi. For its preparation, take 12 g per 10 liters. Spraying is carried out in the same way as Ramidol gold.
. It is also resistant to precipitation and has a healing effect. 6 ml is diluted in 5 liters of water and the plants are sprayed starting from the growing season. Processing is carried out 3 times every 2 weeks.

How is prevention carried out in the greenhouse

Of course, as in the case of other diseases, it is easiest to carry out prevention than to endlessly deal with late blight.

The main preventive measures include the following:

Don't allow neighbors tomatoes with potatoes.
You should not plant these vegetables on the same place for several years in a row.
Also, do not plant tomatoes in the place where eggplants, peppers and potatoes grew.
Do not water tomatoes too often and abundantly.
Definitely necessary remove lower leaves tomato so that they touch the ground as little as possible.
Pull out weeds as they retain moisture.
Do not oversaturate the soil with nitrogen fertilizers.
When the soil retains moisture for a very long time, it is imperative to weed.
After harvesting, do not leave the tops to winter in the garden, it must be burned.

How the disease manifests itself

Finding signs of phytophthora on tomatoes is not at all difficult:

spots appear on the underside, after which leaves turn brown and fall;
the shoots of the plant and its fruits also turn black;
at first the vegetables become hard, and then softer and softer until they begin to rot. So the whole fetus may be lost.

When to treat for the first time

The first time tomatoes are processed 1 or 2 days before planting seedlings in open ground.

After planting, the plants are sprayed again after 12 days.

Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes

Studies have shown that oospores die in 50-degree heat, so if you hold the seeds about 2 hours at this temperature, they will be disinfected.

Remember that for planting it is better to use seeds that have been collected about 3 years ago. During this period, all viruses will die, and you will receive pure material.

Conditions for the development of the disease

Tomatoes are easily infected with late blight from potatoes, and there are many conditions for the development of this disease.

The most common of them include:

pouring rains that last about 3 days;
sudden changes in temperature day and night with a difference of 8 to 12 degrees;
dew that appears from these temperature changes;
fog;
lack of sunlight and heat;
dense plantings;
excess nitrogen.

Phytophthora does not develop in dry weather.

How to cultivate the land after the disease

In the spring, before planting, be sure to cultivate the land from phytophthora. For this they take 3% copper sulfate and water them on the ground.

After that, the soil should be well loosened. To do this, use a special device that will help mix the top cover with a thickness of 25 cm. In this, Tornado will be one of the best helpers. It has an unusual shape and is very effective and easy to use.

And the final step is watering the soil phytosporin. For this, 1 tbsp. means are dissolved in 10 l of water. This dose is calculated for 1 sq.m.

Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into food, so they should be used only in early spring.

Is it possible to eat diseased fruits

If you roll affected tomatoes in jars, they can deteriorate.

Do not be afraid to eat tomatoes affected by late blight. The disease is not transmitted to humans. However, black spots spoil the appearance of tomatoes, and it is very unpleasant to eat them.

As for conservation, it is not recommended to close these tomatoes.

Their acidity may increase, and a variety of microorganisms will multiply, because of which the taste of tomatoes will be completely spoiled.

Varieties resistant to infection

Resistant varieties before late blight include: Gift of a brother, De-Barao, Vilina, Roton.

As you can see, phytophthora is easy to deal with. You just need to choose the tool you like, and get to work. However, you should also adhere to the dosage, because exceeding the norm will harm the tomatoes themselves.

Phytophthora often affects tomatoes, and therefore it is important for gardeners to protect their tomatoes in the second half of summer. How to protect tomatoes from late blight, how to save diseased bushes? What drugs to use from phytophthora, and what folk remedies will help from the disease. How to process tomatoes in a greenhouse to keep them from late blight?

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

What is phytophthora? Signs of illness

late blight- this is a fungal disease, the spores of this fungus hibernate in the ground, but they mainly spread in potato tubers, in which they safely survive the winter, and wake up with spring plantings.

Therefore, the first phytophthora affects potatoes, and then the spores fly to the tomatoes. Phytophthora begins with the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves, then they pass to the stems and fruits. The lower leaves are affected first. The spots can be of different shapes and sizes. On the leaves at the beginning of the disease there is a whitish coating.

The fruits become ill through the stalk. They may remain clean at first, but brown spots also appear on them during storage. This disease can destroy all plantings of tomatoes in a few days.

Photo phytophthora on tomatoes

Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes?

It is important that the spores of the disease can remain on dry seeds. Only after heating for two hours at a temperature of 45-50 ° C, you can be sure that the seeds are disinfected. Therefore, if the seeds are taken from a diseased fetus, they must be specially treated.

Conditions for the development of late blight

In dry, hot weather, infection of tomatoes with late blight is minimized. The spores of this fungus do not like sunlight and are inactive. But during the period of rains and fogs, when the humidity of the air rises, they “wake up” and begin their detrimental effect. If it rains for more than two days, be sure that your tomatoes have already become infected with late blight.

1. Phytophthora usually appears on tomatoes in August, after cold nights and foggy damp matinees. But tomatoes can get sick even earlier - in July. Favorable weather for the development of the disease is a temperature below + 15 ° C and high humidity.

2. Thickened plantings contribute to the appearance of phytophthora. Therefore, excess leaves must be cut off to improve the ventilation of the bushes.

3. Watering tomatoes on the leaves also helps them get sick. Therefore, late blight often appears in open ground after rainy cold weather. It is worth watering the plants in the morning so that the moisture is well absorbed during the day and only under the root, the leaves cannot be wetted.

4. Low temperatures are also a reason for the prevention of tomatoes from late blight.

If the weather is dry and sunny, then infection usually does not occur. Spores die in the sun.

The best treatment is disease prevention. We must try to avoid adverse conditions.

Other reasons for the development of late blight are:

abuse of nitrogen supplements;
lack of useful trace elements of copper, potassium, iodine, manganese in the soil;
bushes too densely planted.

How to save tomatoes from late blight - prevention

The first stage of prevention for the next summer's harvest begins in the fall, during the harvest of the last crop and tearing out the tops. It must be taken away from the garden and burned so that the spores of the fungus do not infect young tomatoes in a year.
If there is excess lime in the soil, then you need to balance its composition by pouring sand into the pits.
Before planting, the soil must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Tomatoes love dry weather. Strong humidity in warm weather, and even faster in cool weather, leads to disease. It begins with the lower leaves, where more moisture accumulates. It is necessary to constantly check the lower leaves and if they begin to darken, immediately remove them.

You can cover the top rows of tomatoes with a film or covering material so that it hangs down on the sides without touching the ground. This will keep the airing, and the tomatoes will be sheltered from the night cold dews.

Phytophthora prevention can be called the complete mulching of the earth under planting tomatoes.

Late blight first affects potato plantings, so you should not plant tomatoes next to it. Also, a close relative of tomatoes and potatoes - eggplant, can also suffer from late blight and it is better not to plant it nearby.

In small areas, protection can be created from rock plants sown around the perimeter of the beds. For example: peas, curly beans, corn.

A good prevention would be spraying plantings and land with phytosporin and trichodermin biological products even before the onset of the disease. They suppress the spread of disease.

Photo phytophthora on tomatoes

It is necessary to strengthen the plants from a young age. Temper. It is enough to fertilize and feed (without fanaticism and excesses, of course). Water with infusion of ash during fruit ripening. So that they are strong and strong, then it will be easier for them to fight diseases. But nitrogen fertilizers (mullein, herbal infusions) should not be fed in the second half of summer - this weakens the plants, they will get sick faster.

How to cultivate the land after phytophthora

For prevention, water the earth with drugs phytosporin And trichodermin. If there was a mass disease, then you need to burn all the diseased bushes, and pour the fungicide on the ground.

How to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse

In the greenhouse, tomatoes are well protected from phytophthora. Even if it is cold and damp outside, they have many advantages. The greenhouse creates its own climate, which can be regulated. Do not forget to ventilate, as well as about prevention. It is often necessary to ventilate the greenhouses so that excessive condensate does not collect and the humidity is normal.

Do not thicken landings.
Cut off stepsons and extra leaves.
Tie up bushes.
Mulch the ground.

Also, to protect tomatoes in the greenhouse, do not plant potatoes and tomatoes in open ground nearby so that their spores do not get into the greenhouse.

At the end of June, you need to spray the tomatoes in the greenhouse with a phytosporin biological product for prevention. Constantly cultivate the land under the tomatoes.

In the greenhouse, it is also necessary to decontaminate its entire structure and land since autumn. You can do this in several ways:

remove the top layer of soil 20 cm and start a new soil;
bury the stems of dill, marigold and calendula deep into the ground so that they rot and fertilize it and heal it;
treat the entire surface of the greenhouse with solutions of phytosporin or copper sulfate.

What to do with late blight on tomatoes if it appeared in the greenhouse?

To combat late blight in greenhouses, fumigation is used: a piece of natural animal skin or wool is placed in a container with hot coals, and all windows and doors are tightly closed. The smoke kills the spores of the fungus and prevents them from multiplying further.

The beds are also sprinkled with ashes after planting and a second time at the first ovary.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Garlic infusion

To prepare garlic infusion, take 200 grams of garlic (can be replaced with onions) and insist in a bucket of water for a day. After filtering, spray diseased plants and tomatoes. Spraying is repeated every 2 weeks.

Milk solution or whey

You can spray tomatoes with a whey solution (diluted with water 1 to 1) - the effect is the same as from a milk solution. This solution is good to use for prevention all summer. Without waiting for the appearance of the disease.

Salt solution

Popular wisdom also advises spraying tomato bushes with a solution of simple table salt (one glass per bucket of water). This solution protects tomatoes from various diseases, after drying it forms a film on the fruit. After rains it is necessary to repeat spraying.

It is better to use all these methods for the prevention of the disease. If late blight is clearly visible on the bushes, then you will most likely have to use chemistry to fight.

Treatment of late blight on tomatoes in the open field

Copper - helps well against phytophthora. Preparations with copper are used to combat and prevent the disease. Drugs are used Hom, Polyhom, Oxyhom, they can be diluted directly in cold water in a watering can (according to instructions).

You can make your own solution. Add a bar of laundry soap for sticking and a bag of blue vitriol to a bucket of water. You can also treat the bushes with infusion of wood ash.

They must be used carefully. Just before fruit ripening. If the tomatoes are already beginning to pour, then chemistry cannot be applied. Poison your crop.

Chemical remedies are also not a panacea. You need to start using them from seedling age and repeat the treatments several times. Especially if the summer is rainy and cold.

By and large, there are no such varieties. All tomatoes are affected by late blight. Although in recent years cherry varieties have been bred that can withstand the invasion of phytophthora. Now there are many new F1 hybrids that manufacturers are positioning as resistant to phytophthora. These are such hybrids as:

Snowstorm
Budenovka
Dragonfly
Parterre
pink dwarf
Raisa
Caspar
Kostroma

Alpha,
Amur shtamb,
Valentine,
Explosion,
Parodist,
Marisha,
Sanka

Early varieties for greenhouses:

Raspberry sugar plum,
tangerine,
golden brush,
Poznan,
meal,
sweet bunch

Photo of Cherry variety in a greenhouse

How to save harvested tomatoes from phytophthora

You can save part of the crop if the disease has already attacked the plantings. To do this, warm the fruits in hot water. Pour water at 60 ° C into a basin and lower the tomatoes there. You need to keep them until warm, but do not cook. The hand usually tolerates such a temperature a little. But it is better to look at the thermometer and add hot water when cooling. Then the tomatoes are dried and sent to ripen.