Most carpenters and woodworkers want to have a universal unit on the farm, but many do not know how to make such a device on their own. In this guide, you will learn how to make a universal router table with your own hands.
The advantages of a universal woodworking machine are that you do not need to have several units and walk with a workpiece from one to another during operation. The only and universal, will be on the same table, and perform the actions of several units. Of course, the limitations of such a device are present, and it is not possible to make an absolutely universal woodworking machine. But to make a table for a router with your own hands, in which there will be an electric planer and a circular saw, is quite realistic.
To translate the idea into reality, you need to take care of consumables, as well as the tools that will be needed to create an accurate and even table on which the devices will be fixed. Since there will be more than one device on the table, a wider and longer table needs to be made. In order not to spoil the materials in vain, first you need to draw a diagram and the location of future devices on a piece of paper. This is an extremely significant argument, since the efficiency of the machine directly depends on the proper arrangement of all elements. Take care of the position of each node in advance. If the task seems very complicated, you can use ready-made diagrams and drawings. Thus, craftsmen make a table for a circular saw with their own hands, without the help of experts.
Basic criteria for a circular saw table
The structure on which the woodworking mechanisms will be installed must have the following characteristics:
- Capital rigidity and stability.
- Perfectly flat surface.
- Grounding.
- Free space for sawdust.
- Easy access to waste for their elimination.
- Protection shields that are installed over rotating elements.
Compliance with the above rules will help you make a really high-quality and safe table for a router with your own hands.
There are several requirements for a circular saw that must be taken into account for the high-quality, productive and safe operation of the unit.
1. Good fastening of the saw blade.
2. Fencing the working part of the saw blade, which many consider an impossible task.
3. Availability of the start-stop button of the unit.
Additional requirements for the table depend on the preferences of the carpenter and his professionalism in this area. Auxiliary elements will help to more accurately process workpieces, make sawing of longer boards, which will ultimately affect the capabilities of the machine to produce absolutely accurate, high-quality and complex products.
Most craftsmen do the drawings of the milling table with their own hands, and if you are not sure, it is better to work with a locksmith, or the person who made such a device.
The design of the circular saw, the machine from the Baikal circular saw
An ordinary table, which can be purchased complete with a circulation plate, is made in most cases from stainless iron. Craftsmen use simple steel, and the supporting structure is welded from metal corners. The wood-cutting disc is mounted in the inner part of the table, on a shaft with bearings, and the mechanical energy is supplied by means of a belt drive. There is a slot in the slab for the disc, which is surrounded on all sides by wooden formwork, and is adjusted from the inside of the table with screws. The gap between the table and the cutting disc should be a few millimeters, otherwise the sawdust in the work will clog into the gap, and lead to a malfunction of the unit. The gap is adjusted depending on the discs used. Everyone tries to make drawings of a circular table with their own hands in order to make a versatile and good woodworking table, but a lack of knowledge can play a bad joke.
Video: Baikal 514 circular saw machine
Calculation of parameters
To avoid costs and absurdities, strictly follow the basic parameters of the materials presented, and you will make a high-quality carpentry table with your own hands. When we assemble a table for a manual circular saw with our own hands, it is necessary to take into account the power of the electric motors that will be used. If you are assembling a table for a manual router with your own hands, you also need to consider the performance of the motor.
For a deeper understanding of the design and layout of the product, view the story about the carpentry table with your own hands, the video of which is posted on the site.
Given that the table will be universal, it is necessary to make the design as stable and durable as possible. The craftsmen make the drawings of the table for the router with their own hands, but if another person will weld the structure, it is necessary to explain in detail so that in the end all the elements are in the right places. You can not separately make a milling table for a manual router with your own hands, since most craftsmen, having made a universal table, work on it with hand tools. This is very convenient, because there is enough space to work, everything is at hand and productivity increases.
Power calculation
To make a good table for a circular saw with your own hands, you need to make the correct calculation of power, with the ratio of the power of the electric motor and the intended work. That is, for comfortable sawing of various types of wood, it is enough to put an electric motor of 1000-1200 W. Experts do not advise using more powerful engines, as this is a big risk. If you need significant power and productivity of the installation, you should make the design of the table more solid and perfect. With the proper approach, many craftsmen create a table for a manual router with their own hands, much better and more productive than models from branded manufacturers.
For a more accurate understanding, view the story on how to make a do-it-yourself milling table, the video of which is in the public domain for viewing.
Industrial machines, as mentioned above, are completely made of metal, and the lower part is supplemented with a concrete slab, for greater reliability of mounting the unit. Do-it-yourself circular table, craftsmen make entirely of metal or in a duet with wooden elements.
It is important to take into account the factor if more units are integrated on the woodworking table, and the more powerful the nominal performance is required, the stronger and more massive it is necessary to make the carpentry table with your own hands.
Small table for manual woodworking machines
For the manufacture of a small woodworking installation, you can not use metal. The following materials will suffice:
- textolite plate.
- lasta plywood with a diameter of 20 or 50 mm.
- plexiglass.
Many people make drawings of the sawing table with their own hands or do without them at all, but as practice shows, it is better to use pre-prepared schemes, since this simplifies and facilitates the manufacturing process.
For greater convenience and possibilities for processing workpieces, carpenters make a turntable for a milling machine with their own hands, which makes work much more convenient, more enjoyable, and wooden products of better quality and perfection. Thus, craftsmen or adventurers make a saw table with their own hands.
Many people wonder how to make a milling table? Firstly, the material of manufacture depends on the size and power of the device used on it. From this we can understand that if the machine is large, then metal is needed, and if it is manual, then plastic and wooden elements. Thus, you can make a saw table with your own hands in a garage or a private workshop.
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Woodworking is a very scrupulous and responsible process, so it is very important to make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands. It is very profitable to make a tool yourself, since the finished product is much more expensive than the materials for manufacturing. A well-made do-it-yourself table for a manual circular can be used when working with other portable woodworking tools. To make the craft of a carpenter not only pleasure, but also convenience, you can make a table for a planer with your own hands. Such a table can be made absolutely of wood, the main thing is to calculate the parameters.
Sometimes you need to make a separate table for an electric planer with your own hands, which will not cause trouble for the master, since the basis of the design and materials are the same as for the manual circular table. When there is nowhere to put the woodworking tool, this is a signal that you need to make a do-it-yourself tool table. Here, for each master, there are no barriers to creativity, since they are made of metal, plastic, wood, using various pockets and shelves. The tool table is the main element for maintaining order and cleanliness in the workshop.
Watch the video of the circular table with your own hands, which outlines all the details about the manufacturing process.
Video: Desktop for a circular saw
Video: milling table; milling table
Many home craftsmen dream of conducting independent cutting of lumber. This is a simple matter, but without suitable equipment it is almost impossible. So why not adapt a hand-held circular saw for this and assemble a table with the possibility of a longitudinal and transverse cut with your own hands?
In the four corners of the shoe, make one hole with a diameter of 10 mm. Drilling locations are arbitrary. Place the saw blade in the slot on the tabletop and align the shoe with the markings. Mark the centers of the holes made on the plywood and transfer them to the back side with a thin drill.
If there is not enough space in the support shoe to drill such large holes, use two steel plates with welded 6 mm studs, attach them to the base of the saw with wing nuts with star washers. In this case, it will be a matter of five minutes to remove the hand saw and return it to its place without additional adjustment. The plates, in turn, have one large hole each for secure mounting and initial adjustment of the position of the saw.
To fasten the saw to the tabletop, you need to use M8 ploughshare bolts with a countersunk cone head. Under them, an 8 mm hole is drilled from the front side and a countersink is made for a cap, which, in an untightened state, should protrude no more than 1 mm above the surface. On the reverse side, the bolts pass into the holes of the support shoe (or steel plates) and are tightened under a wide and spring washer, or a nut with a plastic grower.
If the fitting was successful, the countertop must be fixed to the box. In the four corners of the plywood board, you need to drill one hole the same as for attaching the saw. The distance from the edges is half the side of the bar used plus the wall thickness of the box, in our case it is 30 mm. A 10 mm hole is drilled in the center of each bar, a steel screw M8x18 mm is screwed inside.
Once the tabletop is secured, turn the table on its side so that you have access to both the blade and the saw mounts at the same time. After removing the protective cover for a while, set the saw blade along the longitudinal axis of the table using a rail and square. After adjusting the disc, tighten the fastening nuts well. Using a ruler or level attached to the disc, mark the edges of the table and draw a line of the cut plane along them. Draw along the line several times with an awl, leaving a shallow groove, such a marking will definitely not be erased after long use.
Start button and electrical
The standard power button must be shunted, and if this is not possible, clamp it with a clothespin or harness. Instead of a button on the handle, a small electrical network will be used, laid inside the box.
On the outer front side of the box, install a double button "Start / Stop" with fixation. Its normally open contact is connected to a break in the power cable. The ends of the wire are connected to a socket screwed on the inside.
After the saw is connected and tested in operation, it is necessary to pull a triple-folded nylon stocking onto the air intake grille.
Cross cut guide
Trimming of parts is conveniently carried out in the presence of a thrust beam that moves along guides along the cut line. You can make this from ordinary 9 mm plywood.
All you need is a few boards:
- 150x250 mm 2 pcs.
- 100x820 mm 2 pcs.
- 150x820 mm 1 pc.
- 142x300 mm 1 pc.
As before, sawing plywood on precision equipment is preferable. Three long boards must be assembled in the form of a channel 150 mm wide and with shelves of 100 mm. Since the self-tapping screws will face the countertop, you need to pre-drill the plywood under them and recess the fasteners, and then process the traces with emery cloth. It is more reliable to use confirmations instead of self-tapping screws.
Boards 150x250 mm are screwed like channel plugs, the free ends are directed downwards. The remaining bar is screwed between the shelves exactly in the center. If this beam is placed on a table, the side boards will drop down the sides of the box with a gap of about 10 mm on each side.
Use full extension furniture rails with ball bearings. First attach them to the beam, and then try on and screw them to the body. The fastening holes are oblong, use them to adjust the beam: it should slide over the tabletop with a very small gap and at right angles to the cutting plane. Pass the beam once with the saw running to make a cut at the bottom. For quick removal and installation of the beam, it is recommended to snap off the plastic clips on the rails in advance.
Adjustable rip fence
It is much easier to dissolve the forest if there is a longitudinal stop. It can be made from an ordinary aluminum cornice or another lightweight profile with a perfectly even edge and stiffeners. You will need a cut along the length of the table, that is, 800 mm.
At 150 cm from the edges, make two holes of 8 mm and insert into them along the M8 bolt, orienting the thread down. Screw on the nut without the washer and tighten firmly. At the same distance from the edges of the table, draw two lines. At their intersection with the centerline of the tabletop, drill holes of 12 mm. One more hole is drilled on the same lines with an indent of 30 cm. Using a milling cutter or a jigsaw, make two thin slots, it is advisable to cut as evenly as possible.
The stop profile is inserted with bolts into these slots; after adjustment, it can be pressed with lambs with a wide washer from the inside. If the cutting width needs to be changed frequently, provide the table body with door hinges for easy opening. To make the adjustment of the stop faster, fasten the cut tape from the tape measure to the ends of the table.
If you study the section on FORUMHOUSE "Home-made machines, tools and mechanisms", you can find "1000 and 1 option" devices for a self-builder, which you cannot buy in a store. This can be a stand for a “grinder”, for accurate and quick cutting of a metal profile, a mini-turning machine, as well as all kinds of rebar and pipe benders and planers for aerated concrete. An interesting multifunctional and inexpensive sawing table, which was created by a portal member with the nickname id215711128.
id215711128
- How to make a saw table for a circular saw.
- What materials and details are needed for this.
Universal saw table for circular saw
So, at id215711128 There is a powerful circular, which is already more than 20 years old. Saw cutting depth 65 mm. During its operation, it turned out that it is difficult to achieve high-quality sawing of wood with its help. Reasons: the settings for the angle of inclination of the disk and the depth of cut are constantly lost. The sole of the saw is made of thin metal, as a result it bends, and the geometry is not maintained when cutting the workpiece.
First, the user went the standard way - he began to modify the saw. He made devices for maintaining the perpendicularity of the cut. I put wedges to maintain the depth of the cut. I built the saw into the table as it is, but the frail M4 thread on the circular racks weakened and each new pass had to be adjusted again. Despite the difficulty of sawing, id215711128 made 5 casing boxes. The "accident" that gave impetus to the construction of the multifunctional sawing table occurred when a craftsman was making sidewalls for door casing.
id215711128
I sawed a two-meter beam. I have already chosen quarters, cut the locks, it remains to choose a longitudinal groove designed to fix the product on the wall. I made several cuts with a saw, and when the workpiece was almost ready, the circular lost its depth. I almost sawed the beam in half, completely ruining the part. That's it, I realized that I had enough of these "dances with a tambourine", and I need a normal sawing table.
First, the user bought plywood for the countertop at the construction hypermarket. Then he developed a technical task, what requirements the table should meet. So:
- The maximum possible overhang of the saw blade is required.
- The saw blade must have an adjustable tilt angle - 90-45 degrees and a reach of 0 - max with reliable fixation of the specified parameters.
- Parts of a large section should be placed on the table, so the dimensions of the table are 1.22 x1 m.
- You need an adjustable and securely fixed parallel stop, as well as adjustable horizontal and vertical clamps for workpieces.
- The table should be multifunctional, with the possibility of further installation of a router and an electric jigsaw.
On the topic "universal carpentry fixtures" we recommend reading the articles: and.
Having defined the requirements id215711128 I thought about what to make the mechanism for raising and lowering the saw. The choice fell on a car screw rhombic jack.
But, having gone to the store for bolts, studs and nuts, the user forgot to buy it there. Because I didn’t want to go back, the do-it-yourselfer decided to replace the jack with a clamp, from which he cut off everything that was superfluous and welded the necessary one.
The design of the lift turned out to be simple and reliable.
Next came the turn of the circular upgrade. From it, the user removed the sole, the cover of the saw blade, because. it interfered, and disk protection. The disassembly of the saw was carried out with the expectation that, if necessary, it could be reassembled. The saw was installed on a lift.
The tilt of the saw is carried out using a homemade rotary mechanism made of hairpins and boards.
According to the do-it-yourselfer, because of the metric thread, the handles have to be rotated a large number of revolutions, but with infrequent reconfigurations of the machine, this is not critical.
The parallel stop has a length of 1220 mm. To prevent shifting of the far edge of the workpiece when sawing it, the stop is equipped with an additional lock.
All parts are well matched to each other and precisely fixed on the table, because the geometry at the exit of the sawn workpiece depends on this.
id215711128
Tests of the machine showed that everything works as it should. The angles of inclination and the depth of the cut do not go astray.
At this stage, the user took time out and thought about how to upgrade the machine for sawing large workpieces. It came to mind to make a carriage, but it will “eat” about 1 cm of the cut depth. This can be critical, because casing parts are made of timber and have dimensions of 1.5-2 m, with a section of 10x20 cm. In addition, such a timber weighs a lot, and it is inconvenient to push it on the table. Exit - the workpiece stands still, and the saw itself moves.
id215711128
I remembered that when they sawed plywood for me in a construction hypermarket, they did it with such a “cunning” machine, the saw blade of which travels from top to bottom and from left to right. On reflection, I decided to make a cart with rollers and straighteners along which the saw would move.
To make the fixture, the user bought casters for a furniture trolley and a 5x5 cm corner. First id215711128 I decided to put only the lower and horizontal rollers. But, because due to the application of effort when moving the trolley, a distortion may result, the master put additional rollers on the trolley that rest against the lower surface of the tabletop.
Those. the trolley is fixed in three directions. This ensures high accuracy of its movement.
During the "break-in" of the table, it was necessary to adjust the alignment of the direction of the cut and the direction of movement of the trolley.
To do this, washers were placed under the fastening of the guide corners.
Having adjusted the machine, the do-it-yourselfer tested it by sawing a board with a section of 20x5 cm.
With a blade stroke of 260 mm, this was enough for precise sawing of the workpiece.
d215711128
Taking a simple circular as a basis, I managed to make a sawing and trimming machine with the possibility of longitudinal and transverse cuts. You can cut either by rigidly fixing the circular saw, moving the workpiece, or by moving the saw, with the workpiece clamped by clamps with adjustable depth and inclination of the disk. I plan to further refine the machine to make it even more functional and more convenient. For this you need to put:
- Quick-release fixed stop with a protractor for trimming workpieces at any desired angle when moving the saw.
- Movable protractor for processing small wooden products with a fixed circular.
The user also installed an eccentric clamp to fix the carriage in any of the positions of the saw.
A hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high productivity. One of the main advantages of a circular saw is that maneuverability becomes a disadvantage when large volumes of wood need to be cut. To simplify the process, you can easily assemble a table for a circular saw with your own hands.
Table device
The design of a table for a manual circular saw is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench that is made from wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are the heaviest and require the skills of a welder. Therefore, more often coasters are made from lumber waste. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the disk protrudes above it through a specially made slot. Timber is moved along the countertop and sawn with a rotating disc. For convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: angular and longitudinal emphasis.
The tabletop "eats" part of the working surface of the disc, the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is desirable to select a circular saw with a maximum disc diameter, and a thin but rigid tabletop.
If the saw has not yet been purchased, select models with high power (from 1200 W). They can cut through large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for fastening: the molded base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.
Selection of materials
To make a good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember carpentry skills, be patient and a small amount of materials:
- laminated plywood 15 - 20 mm;
- timber 50 x 50;
- board;
- switch;
- external socket;
- piece of electrical cable;
- PVA glue;
- wood varnish (if the plywood is not laminated);
- self-tapping screws.
And tools:
- jigsaw;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- ruler.
The size of the countertop will depend on the area of the workshop. However, on a table that is too small, it will be inconvenient to cut long pieces. If the entire part fits on the work surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.
For a small workshop, a desktop design with approximate dimensions of 50 x 50 x 25 cm is convenient.
Table making process
- From a sheet of laminated plywood, we cut out the countertop of the required size. The marking is applied to the lower plane using a metal ruler and a pencil. We cut the plywood with an electric jigsaw, mill the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, we clean the surface of the table with sandpaper.
- We turn over and from the bottom we make markings for attaching a manual circular. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and set it with the sole in the desired place. We make marks on the table top and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for the saw blade. We drill holes for the bolts. They will be screwed from above, through the countertop and from below held by nuts. Therefore, from the side of the working surface, we countersink the holes, and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
- If you plan to cut the material at different angles, the slot for the saw blade is made in the form of an inverted trapezoid. For even sawing, a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for fasteners, attach a saw, correct the marks, and only then cut.
- Mark with a pencil the location of the stiffeners. They are made from a board and installed from below 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the countertop. We will attach the legs of the table to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, additionally glued with PVA. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the countertop, the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
- The legs of the table are made of a bar or board, their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. The legs, slightly diverging downwards, will give greater stability. They are fixed on large bolts, twisted from the outside, fastened with nuts from the inside. Screeds from a bar will additionally strengthen the frame.
- To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached from below, into which M14 bolts are screwed.
- Now you can fix the saw from below by passing the disc into the prepared slot.
- We attach an electrical outlet to the inside of the table, pass an electrical wire from it and install the switch in a convenient place (on the outer part of the stiffener). The outlet will be powered by the switch. From it we stretch the wire to the nearest power source in the workshop. Using a construction tie, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in a recessed position.
Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop, you will need a #30 aluminum square tube and two screws with wing nuts.
- We saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the countertop, cut holes for the screws 3 cm from the edge.
- We cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The structure is ready.
- For sawing across the table, we make a plywood sled. We align them relative to the edges of the table, press and move along the jagged circle. In the place where the circle passes in the sled, we cut a groove. Small parts can be stacked directly inside the sled and sawed.
Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust is scattered from above, so it’s a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust outlet.
Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so care must be taken to protect your fingers. Cut out a pusher from a piece of board or furniture board.
Additions to the design
This design can be supplemented with a riving knife, which will be removed. Put on a disc protection on it, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly into the carpenter.
Some masters, assembling a table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective cover, and replace the factory platform with a home-made one. If you do not plan to cut at an angle, you can also remove all devices for adjusting the blade tilt. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, which allows you to gain a few millimeters of cutting depth.
Reading time ≈ 4 minutes
A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disk with a serrated outer edge. Choosing such a tool, everyone decides for himself what kind he needs: desktop, manual, stationary. Many prefer the manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to fix the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity, if necessary, to fix the tool.
Preparation of tools and materials
Having decided to make a table for a manual circular saw on your own, you need to take care of the availability of all the materials necessary for work:
- laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
- Chipboard 16 mm or other sheet material suitable for the manufacture of the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
- bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts.
For such a table, any hand-held circular saw will do. At the same time, it must be remembered that when attached to the table, the depth of cut decreases by 10-20 mm. So saws with small discs are not suitable for such a table.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw
1. Manufacturing of the case. Sheet material for the body is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. Parts are fastened with screws and bars. It is better to assemble by pre-drilling the outer parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom and a lid. The upper part of the bars is subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.
2. Preparing and fixing the plywood top. Hole cut. First, a piece of 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the tabletop. On the reverse side of the plywood, markup is performed. You will need 2 center axles. Without them, you cannot perform accurate markup. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they make such measurements that the circular has: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, the maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the dimensions obtained, marks are placed and a rectangular hole is cut out with a jigsaw.
3. Fastening the saw to the plywood tabletop. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter - 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part goes into the sawn hole. When the saw is leveled, mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, ploughshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) will be needed for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality deepening of the cap, it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm in an open form.
Plywood is drilled from the outside, the diameter of the holes obtained should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made under the cap. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the saw table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside using nuts with plastic growers or spring washers.
4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using a 18 mm M8 steel fitting. On the side part, a regular "Start - start" button is installed. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the tool itself is clamped.
5. Making a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a thrust beam. The drawings contain all the required dimensions. The beam can be made of plywood, and secured with full extension furniture rails. The resulting beam should slide over the surface at an angle of 90° to the cutting plane with little clearance.
6. An emphasis for longitudinal cuts. It is made from an aluminum cornice. At 150 mm from the edges, holes for the bolts are first drilled, and then 2 lines are drawn from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts at a distance of 30 mm, holes of 12 mm are made. Bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines, cuts are made to the tonic, their width can be seen in the photo.
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