Homemade construction cyclone vacuum cleaner. Self-repair of a vacuum cleaner

When working with wood, you can’t do without a chip blower, or a vacuum cleaner. If during long-term work, for example, when working on a thicknessing, circular or milling machine, it is easy to turn on the chip blower manually, then when you turn on a tool for a short time, such as a hand saw, a manual milling cutter, manually turning on and off the vacuum cleaner every time is painfully troublesome. Often, carried away, you forget to either turn it on or turn it off. Therefore, the host of the video channel "" decided to make a device that allows you to automatically turn on the chip blower or vacuum cleaner simultaneously when you turn on the tool. Similar to the one that some models of industrial construction vacuum cleaners are equipped with.

I decided to take as a basis such a scheme for synchronous switching, published in the Radio magazine. True, she made a mistake. The circuit connecting the left terminal of the resistor R1 according to the scheme with the cathode of the diode VD1 must be broken. Redrawn the diagram in a clearer way. When the power tool is turned on, current begins to flow through the diodes VD2 ... VD5.

The voltage falling on them through the resistor R1 is applied to the control electrode of the triac and opens it. Through the triac, the vacuum cleaner receives a supply voltage and it turns on. The maximum power of the tool is determined by the maximum allowable current through the diodes, and the maximum allowable current through the triac. I chose the details based on a load of 2 kW.

The triac can withstand a maximum forward current of 12 A, the diodes can be any rectifier, designed for a maximum forward current of at least 6 A and a reverse voltage of at least 200 V. The device is assembled on a printed circuit board made of one-sided foil textolite. On the left is a view of the board from the side of the printed wiring, and on the right is the layout of the hanging elements on the board. To make the board, I took a piece of textolite.

Cut out the drawing of the board from paper and stick it on the textolite. With a drill with a diameter of 1 mm, we will drill holes for radio components, and with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm - mounting holes in the corners of the board. We will manufacture the board mechanically, by cutting insulating grooves between the printed conductors. To do this, we will use a cutter. The cutter can be easily made from a piece of hacksaw blade. On purpose, I have not yet cut the board to size, since it is more convenient to fasten and cut the foil on a large sheet of textolite. We cut the board to size and remove the excess foil with a scalpel. We will sand the board, check the quality of the cut grooves and, if necessary, correct the tracks. We cover the contact pads with flux and use a shielding braid to tin them.

As a flux, we use rosin dissolved in alcohol. Let's start assembling the parts. According to the wiring diagram, we insert all the parts into the board and bend the legs from the back so that the parts do not fall out. We cut the legs with wire cutters, leaving the length of the bent ends 2 ... 3 mm. Apply flux to the pads and solder the parts to the board. Solder the mounting wires and connect the sockets according to the diagram. The vacuum cleaner, the tool is connected to the socket. Let's check the functionality of the device. This is a power outlet.

As a vacuum cleaner, for clarity, we use a 60 W incandescent lamp. Plug it into an outlet. As a tool, we use a 400 W eccentric sander. Plug in the device. We turn on the machine. Works! Instead of a lamp, we will connect a vacuum cleaner. Its power is 1300 watts. Heard it works. Parts are not heated yet. For heating, it is necessary to check during prolonged operation or by connecting a more powerful tool.

Let's determine the minimum power of the tool that can be connected to this device. Plug in the vacuum cleaner. Instead of a tool, we will connect a 60 W incandescent lamp. We turn on the device in the network. lamp. Operates at full power. Therefore, 60 W is enough for a vacuum cleaner. In this case, the workshop does not have a tool with a power of less than 60 W, for which it is needed. So we can assume that 60 watts is the minimum load. In fact, I made a board for the synchronous operation of devices specifically to control the chip blower for my miter saw. I found an old Soviet "Whirlwind" in a landfill. It is planned to make a chip blower out of it. Let's check if the board works with the unit. Insert the plug from the vacuum cleaner into the socket. Miter saw. We check. The vacuum cleaner is working. Sucks up air well. The radiator is cold, and the diodes have warmed up a little ... - the power of the saw is considerable - after all, 1800 watts. How it is planned to make a chip cutter out of this vacuum cleaner is the subject of a separate discussion.

Such a device turned out. Based on it, it is also planned to make a power regulator for their grinder. We often use it for cleaning boards from dirt, cement and sand, as well as for sanding logs. 12 thousand revolutions for the purposes is still too much.

Discussion

Oleg Dedukh
3 days ago
Good afternoon. Could you send me the PCB file by mail [email protected]

Do-it-yourself joinery
3 days ago
Take it here: https://goo.gl/AaYLhz. Good luck!

Aleksandr Kuzmin
What do you think about connecting a 220 to 12 volt step-down transformer and a fan from the laptop motherboard to this circuit? on x1 we connect the phase (L) of the 220 volt transformer, and on x2 we connect the neutral of the transformer N, then on the lower part of the 12 volt transformer we connect the fan to L and N, then when the vacuum cleaner is turned on, the fan will immediately turn on and cool the diodes and resistors?

Do-it-yourself joinery
1 month ago
Aleksandr Kuzmin It is possible and so. I installed the board inside the body of the vacuum cleaner (see my video about the vacuum cleaner) and the problem with the airflow disappeared by itself.

Igor Shiganov
1 month ago
Please tell me. I assembled everything according to the scheme. Vacuum cleaner 2 engines for 1.3 currents took all the details with a margin. I connected it through the phase switch button to the vacuum cleaner so that it could be turned on independently. The first switch went off with a bang, in one position of the key the vacuum cleaner worked separately, and in another position when the tool was turned on. After a couple of minutes, and the engines of the vacuum cleaner did not even work, the AD12 socket protection worked and now the vacuum cleaner turns on at any position of the three-position switch. What could be the reason?

Do-it-yourself joinery
1 month ago
Igor Shiganov The triac burned out. Apparently overheated. Look at the comments, you will find answers to your questions there. Good luck!

SanSay 16RUS
3 month ago
I assembled this miracle and ... it works))), but the question is, why does the triac get warm? after all, it seems to be 12 amperes, and, in my case, 7 amperes flows through it (the dust is 1400 W, and the actual ones are even less). Of course, I put it simply on a strip of aluminum, but still. It heats up to 60 degrees in 2 minutes.

Do-it-yourself joinery
3 month ago
I said that the triac must be placed on the radiator. It is small, and it needs to dissipate a lot of power. Therefore, such devices, regardless of the nameplate direct current, should always be installed on radiators. I'm glad that everything worked out for you. Good luck! SanSay 16RUS
3 month ago
I read about these triacs - it turns out that it’s normal that they heat up ... supposedly that’s how they are arranged and the normal temperature for them is even 100 gr., But in short, you need to cool them somehow - I went to a metal acceptance and for 100 rubles I bought a radiator from them for the PKshny process , aluminum, round 90mm, with a bunch of fins and ... in 5 minutes, neither the triac nor the radiator heated up even to 30 degrees!
NDA ... a strip of aluminum up to 60 gr. in 2 minutes and a normal radiator in 5 minutes to 30 ... 35 years, but study, study and study again)))

The synchronous soft start module is designed to synchronize operation, soft start and shutdown of any power tool. For example, using such a device, you can synchronize the work of a grinder, milling cutter, puncher or any other tool on the one hand, and a vacuum cleaner on the other.

When you press the power tool button (socket 2), the vacuum cleaner motor (socket 1) starts softly, and when you turn it off, the vacuum cleaner motor runs for another 6 seconds and turns off (provided that the power button is on).

The use of a soft start system unit allows you to reduce starting currents, reduce the likelihood of motor overheating, increase service life, eliminate jerks in the mechanical part of the drive at the time of starting and stopping the electric motor.


Photo 1, 2, 3 Appearance and dimensions of the soft synchronous starter of the power tool

Along with the effect of a soft start, such a unit allows you to reduce the active power consumption, significantly reduce the reactive power, protect the motor, reduce noise, heating and vibration of the electric motor.

The synchronous soft starter is supplied with a 2 meter cable.

The total power of the power tool connected to sockets 1 and 2 must not exceed 3.5 kW. To implement the synchronous start function, the power of the device connected to socket 2 must be at least 150 W.

Price - 700 UAH.

Photo 4. Remote control key fob.

Photo 4 shows the key fob of the remote control system (remote control). This function can be added to the synchronous start module. Range - up to 30m. Button A turns on, button B - turns off socket 1. It is also possible to connect additional key fobs.

  • The cost of the remote control system is 350 UAH

Remote control module with the function of synchronous start of the vacuum cleaner drives (remote control module with SP)

Photo 5 - Remote control module with the function of synchronous start of the vacuum cleaner drives (remote control module with SP). Photo 6 - Scheme of connecting the remote control module with a joint venture.

The remote control module with a joint venture (photo 5) allows you not only to remotely turn on the drives of the vacuum cleaner, but also synchronize the start of the power tool with the inclusion of the drives of the vacuum cleaner. In this case, it is enough to connect this device to the wiring of your workshop or workshop (as shown in photo 6) and the vacuum cleaner will turn on simultaneously with any power tool included in this circuit. The vacuum cleaner will turn off 6 seconds after turning off the power tool to remove any remaining dust in the hoses. The button on the body of the device allows you to turn on and off the synchronous start function if necessary. In position "1" only drive A is switched on synchronously, in position "2" - drives A and B, and in position "0" the synchronous start function is disabled and the drives are switched on only from the remote control.

Price - 1800 UAH.

Among my hobbies, amateur radio ranks fourth after women, photography and the internet. But once it was on the first place and more than once played a big role in my life: the choice of an institute, the army, business ... I really understood well, carried away several acquaintances and during the time that the hobby was relevant, I met only two people who knew the theory better than me. I note that these were not teachers of the subject at the institute, which greatly disappointed me in science. My head is still filled with thousands of numbers: the names of parts, most of which have died along with the plants, and their parameters.
Now I rarely put my hands on it, except to fix it. There was absolutely nothing to do: there is nothing that the hard-working Chinese would not solder, anticipating the most perverted desires. True, it is precisely behind them that one has to repair, thanks to which the hobby continues.


And yet, there was an opportunity to put your hands on it: after turning off the computer, I got tired of turning off the monitor, speakers, and printer. Most often, I just threw them away, but each blinks with its own light, and speakers with a remote transformer power supply do not even know the standby mode.
I had to build in the extension cable dependent switching on of the load.
I already mentally figured out the circuit, but - as always - I found a similar one on the Internet, removed the optocoupler pair with a seven-stroke from there, installing an electronic relay, the main advantage of which is switching not at any time, but when zero passes through the AC sinusoid. Everything is better than the peak 311 V, which is reached at the maximum by the sinusoid of the operating voltage of 220 V.
I added another resistor to enhance the dependence of the inclusion on the current consumed by the main load, which must be selected under the lower threshold for switching on the load in the range of 1.2-3.3 ohms. After all, the computer, even in the off (but not disconnected from the network) mode, consumes energy and allows you to charge the phone from USB. This resistor is best placed in parallel with the diode with the largest forward voltage drop.
The computer - or other master device - is connected to the master socket, if the load on it exceeds 30W, the voltage is supplied to the dependent slave sockets.
Assembled on a breadboard inside the extension cable. Power conductors of increased cross section.

Convenient, and nice to do something with your hands. Observing safety precautions, of course.
I wonder if anyone has read it?

Addition Those who need to connect a powerful load like a vacuum cleaner when turning on the main tool should:
1. Instead of a chain of VD1-VD4 diodes and R2, which is unnecessary in this case, put a small step-up transformer on a ferrite ring: it is smarter, more compact, and cheaper than replacing diodes with more powerful ones. The primary winding of the transformer from a pair of turns of wire with a section sufficient for the leading tool (if you don’t know how to count or in doubt - the same as on the network cable of this tool) instead of the left one according to the VD1 scheme. And a few tens of turns with a thickness of 0.1 mm secondary - pick up so that when the load is on, the voltage on it is 3-4 V - instead of a chain of three VD2-VD4 diodes. Break the upper connection VD1 with VD2-VD4! Increase C1 voltage to 50 V due to impulse surges during tool start.
2. Instead of a load, connect a starter or contactor (you can use a second-hand one for cheapness) with a winding for 220 V alternating voltage: their contacts are designed for serious loads, incl. inductive, like a vacuum cleaner motor, whose starting current is significantly higher than the working one.
3. Construction presents a lot of surprises, take care of the safety and moisture protection of the device case. This is perhaps the most significant improvement.


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05.05.2016

When working with wood, you can’t do without a chip blower or a vacuum cleaner. If during prolonged work, for example, when working on a thicknessing, circular or milling machine, it is easy to turn on the chip blower manually, then when the tool is turned on for a short time, in order to manually turn on and off the vacuum cleaner as a trimming, manual disk saw, manual milling machine painfully troublesome. Usually, getting carried away, you forget to either turn it on or turn it off.

Based on this, the host of the video channel "Do-it-yourself joinery" decided to make a device that allows you to automatically turn on the chip blower or vacuum cleaner automatically when you turn on the tool. Similar to the one that some models of industrial construction vacuum cleaners are equipped with.

For the base, I decided to take such a circuit for synchronous switching, posted in the Radio publication. Indeed, it is inaccurate. The circuit connecting the left terminal of the resistor R1 according to the scheme with the cathode of the diode VD1 must be broken. Redrawn the diagram in a clearer way.

When the power tool is turned on, current begins to flow through the diodes VD2 ... VD5.

The voltage falling on them through the resistor R1 is applied to the control electrode of the triac and opens it. Through the triac, the vacuum cleaner receives a supply voltage and it turns on. The maximum power of the tool is determined by the maximum allowable current through the diodes, and the maximum allowable current through the triac.

I chose the details based on a load of 2 kW.

The triac can withstand a large forward current of 12 A, the diodes can be any rectifier, designed for a large forward current of at least 6 A and a reverse voltage of at least 200 V. The device is assembled on a printed circuit board made of one-sided foil textolite. On the left is a view of the board from the side of the printed wiring, and on the right is the layout of attachments on the board. To make the board, I took a piece of textolite.

Cut out the drawing of the board from paper and stick it on the textolite. With a drill with a diameter of 1 mm, we will drill holes for radio components, and with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm - mounting holes in the corners of the board. We will manufacture the board by a mechanical method, by cutting insulating grooves between printed conductors. To do this, we will use a cutter. The cutter can easily be made from a piece of hacksaw blade.

Intentionally, I didn’t cut the board to size yet, because it’s more ergonomic to fix and cut the foil on a huge textolite page. We cut the board to size and remove the excess foil with a scalpel. We will sand the board, make sure the level of quality of the cut grooves is reliable and, if necessary, correct the tracks.

We cover the contact pads with flux and use a shielding braid to tin them.

As a flux, we use rosin dissolved in alcohol. Let's get down to the installation details. In accordance with the wiring diagram, we will put all the details into the board and bend the legs from the back so that the details do not fall out. We cut the legs with wire cutters, leaving the length of the curved ends 2 ... 3 mm. Apply flux to the pads and solder the parts to the board. Solder the mounting wires and connect the sockets in accordance with the diagram.

The vacuum cleaner, the tool is connected to the socket. We will verify the reliability of the device. This is a power outlet.

As a vacuum cleaner, for clarity, we use a 60 W incandescent lamp. Plug it into an outlet. As a tool, we use a 400 W eccentric sander. Plug in the device. We turn on the machine. Working hard!

Instead of a lamp, we will connect a vacuum cleaner. Its power is 1300 watts. Heard it works. Details are yet to be revealed.

For heating, you need to control during long work or by connecting a more wonderful tool.

Let's determine the minimum power of the tool that is possibly connected to this device. Plug in the vacuum cleaner. Instead of a tool, we will connect a 60 W incandescent lamp. We turn on the device in the network. lamp.

Working at full capacity. Therefore, 60 W is enough for a vacuum cleaner. In this case, the workshop does not have a tool with a power of less than 60 W, for which it is needed. So we can assume that 60 watts is the minimum load. In fact, I made a board for synchronous operation of devices specifically to control the chip blower for my own miter saw. Found a dilapidated communist "Whirlwind" in a junkyard.

It is planned to make a chip blower out of it. Let's make sure that the board works with the unit. Insert the plug from the vacuum cleaner into the socket.

Miter saw. We control. The vacuum cleaner is working. It sucks up air well.

The radiator is cold, and the diodes have warmed up a little ... - the power of the saw is large - after all, 1800 watts. How it is planned to make a chip cutter out of this vacuum cleaner is the subject of a separate conversation.

Such a device turned out to be. On its basis, it is also planned to make a power regulator for our own angle grinder. Quite often we use it for cleaning boards from dirt, sand and cement, and for sanding logs.

12 thousand revolutions for the purposes is still too much.

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Synchronous activation of the chip blower

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