The reasons for the death of cabbage seedlings and even older plants can be very different: poor care, pests and diseases.

Cabbage is dying from pests

The most dangerous enemies of young cabbage seedlings are cruciferous flea beetles. These are small jumping insects that can destroy a fragile plant in just a couple of days. They attack the tender leaves of seedlings planted in the garden and first turn the edges of cabbage leaves into a sieve, and then the whole thing. If measures are not taken in time, the cabbage will die.

You can fight cruciferous vegetables using different methods: chemical and. Folk pollination includes pollination with tobacco dust, ash, a mixture of ash, and so on. You can water and spray with decoctions of tomato tops, infusion of garlic leaves, and dandelion roots. This is all effective and safe in terms of healthy products from your own, but after the first rain and even watering, the fleas attack again. Therefore, it is better to use chemicals. This is pollination with dust and spraying with some kind of preparation against garden pests. For example, the means “Commander”, “Intavir”, etc.

Cabbage aphids are no less dangerous. It appears on older plants; the cabbage does not die, but the growth and formation of heads of cabbage slows down, which leads to a decrease in yield. You can fight aphids with a soap solution, as well as chemicals.

Closer to autumn, cabbage often dies from the cabbage cutworm. This is a brown butterfly that is nocturnal. She lays eggs on cabbage leaves, from which caterpillars hatch, which are very voracious. If the heads of cabbage are still small, the caterpillars can completely ruin them. You need to fight the cabbage cutworm by manually collecting pests and eggs from the leaves. But if the caterpillars have already penetrated the heads of cabbage, then you need to spray the plants with microbiological preparations. These are “Dipel”, “Lepidotsid”, etc. The use of chemicals is undesirable, since there is usually less than a month left before the harvest.

Cabbage is dying from disease

“Black leg” is a real scourge of seedlings, especially when the crops are thickened and the soil is waterlogged. The cabbage stem turns black and softens, after which it can no longer hold the leaves and falls to the side. This is a highly contagious disease; it literally wipes out cabbage crops in a matter of hours. You can fight the “black leg”. All diseased specimens should be immediately removed and destroyed, and the seedlings should be taken to a cold room, if possible. It is also recommended to pour a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. And do not water again for several days. This usually stops the disease from spreading further. To prevent the “black leg” from appearing again, disinfect the soil for seedlings (steam or pour boiling water) and take it from a proven place, because the causative agent of this disease lives in the soil for a long time.

There is a cabbage disease called clubroot. In seedlings it appears as thickening on the roots. If such seedlings are planted in the ground, over time they will begin to wither. The leaves will turn yellow and then the cabbage will die. It can no longer be treated; the fight against clubroot lies in prevention. This includes treating the soil with bleach after harvesting, mandatory crop rotation on the site and pre-sowing seed treatment.

Cabbage dies from poor care

Cabbage loves moisture, but in reasonable quantities. If you flood the seedlings, most likely they will die, as the roots will simply rot. Also, cabbage should not be overdried, especially a few days after planting in the garden. She is afraid of the sun's rays, cover the plantings with thin acrylic. This is a non-woven material that perfectly transmits light and air, as well as even moisture. By the way, acrylic will also help against cruciferous flea beetles. After strengthening the seedlings, remove the cover.

, which is usually accompanied by wilting of seedlings. But the leaves of the seedlings may not fade much for completely natural reasons.

After all, for any plant, replanting cannot pass without leaving a trace. This is a certain stress, and it takes time for the plant to recover from it. How to feed cabbage seedlings after planting.

If yourlooks worse and worse, then it already becomes clear that it is withering not because you recently transplanted it, but for completely different reasons.

Juicy cabbage leaves (although they are not so juicy in young seedlings) attract many pests, from which cabbage must be kept away.

Otherwise, they can destroy it at the seedling stage. One of these pests, which begins to attack cabbage at this stage, is the cabbage fly.

It looks almost the same as a housefly, only its size is smaller - the length is within 6 millimeters.

When does the cabbage fly become active?

If we talk about the central regions of our country, that is, about the Moscow region, then the cabbage fly appears here at the time when birch and lilac begin to bloom.

In the Leningrad region, its appearance usually occurs during the flowering of cherry and cress. At this time, the soil has already warmed up sufficiently (up to 8 degrees) and those pupae that have successfully overwintered wake up, flies fly out and begin their active life activities.

Usually, to lay their eggs, they choose stronger seedlings and lay their eggs on the lower part of such a plant.

Why is cabbage fly dangerous for cabbage seedlings?

Vigorous seedlings that are not covered with soil up to the first leaf are the first to come under attack.

It is on such seedlings, after 5-10 days, that the first cabbage fly larvae appear. They can be seen on the part of the stem that is bare.

These larvae are milky white in color, look like small worms, up to 8 millimeters in length. It is clear that the larvae need to feed intensively, which is what they do, damaging the root or the stem of young cabbage from the outside or even biting into it.

As a result, the roots of the seedlings stop developing and rot. If the roots do not work, then no nutrients from them will go into the plant itself. Therefore, cabbage leaves wither and turn purple-blue.

As for the larvae, their life activity can last 20 days or 30. Next, they move into the soil, where they pupate or do this without moving into the soil, that is, in plants.

During a prolonged spring, when we are forced to plant many types of seedlings in soil that has not yet warmed up, or during the June “strip of cold weather,” severe damage to cabbage seedlings can most often be encountered.

First of all, early varieties of white cabbage and cauliflower are under attack. As for late varieties, they are not so susceptible to damage by this pest.

This fly does not like red cabbage (salad), but larvae can be found in radishes. I think we have all come across the wormy roots of this vegetable more than once.

How to deal with cabbage fly?

To prevent cabbage from being completely “fed” to this pest, it must be processed appropriately. Be careful and constantly monitor the seedlings.

If there are characteristic damage or larvae on it, you need to quickly clean this area on the plant until healthy tissue appears. Next, rub this area well., after which we cover it with wet clay.

We water these seedlings generously and feed them with slurry (concentration 1:5) or fresh mullein (here 1:10).

After this, the seedlings are hilled high, right up to the first leaf. This way you will give the plant the opportunity to grow new roots, and you will not allow flies to freely reach the trunk, which means they will not be able to lay eggs.

Fighting the cabbage fly is not difficult if you know, for example, what odors it does not tolerate. And this is the smell of celery and tomatoes, so we simply plant these crops closer to the cabbage to repel this pest.

Tobacco dust plusalso a good option for natural protection. We plant cabbage seedlings and after a little while, pollinate them with this mixture.

You can also protect radishes when their first shoots appear. As a result, the fly simply will not fly up to such plants, and therefore will not be able to lay eggs on their stems.

It’s a shame when, after so much work, cabbage seedlings die right before planting in the garden. And what to do, because planting dates are running out, and you simply don’t have time to grow new seedlings. But if measures are taken in time, the plants can still be saved.

Seedlings die from “black leg”

The most dangerous disease of cabbage is “blackleg”. It not only destroys seedlings in the greenhouse, but also those planted in a permanent place in the garden if the cabbage has already been infected. “Blackleg” spreads very quickly throughout the nursery and directly “mows down” the plants.

The cabbage stem becomes thinner, darkens, young plants fall to one side and the seedlings die very quickly. Older plants maintain a vertical position, but do not grow, wither and gradually dry out. It is possible to save seedlings from the “black leg”.

The first step is to remove diseased specimens. Then water the remaining seedlings with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. Next, take the containers with seedlings to a cool place and do not water them again for several days.

Usually this is enough to stop the spread of the disease. To avoid dealing with the “black leg”, it is better to follow the following rules for planting cabbage.

Be sure to calcine the soil or pour boiling water over it. Keep the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. Do not sow the seeds thickly or thin out the seedlings. Water the seedlings with a solution of potassium permanganate for prevention. Do not overwater the seedlings.

Pests of cabbage seedlings: cruciferous flea beetles

Cabbage is also damaged by cruciferous flea beetles. It often happens that after planting, they directly attack the young tender leaves and turn them into a sieve in one or two days.

To get rid of cruciferous flea beetles, water the planted seedlings with a solution of the drug "Intavir" or another insecticide with a similar effect. If you do not want to use chemicals, make an infusion of tomato tops (1 kg of dry tops per 10 liters of water or 4 kg of fresh tops). Fill with cold water, hold for 4 hours and bring to a boil.

Cool, dilute with water in half and spray the cabbage seedlings in the evening and in the morning. You can also repel cruciferous flea beetles with a vinegar solution. For 10 liters of water take 1-2 tbsp. l. essences (70%). Ash, black pepper, and tobacco dust work very well.

They are mixed and pollinated by plants. At the same time, put a bandage on your nose and mouth, it is advisable to cover your eyes with glasses. Ash can be used separately; it is harmless and is also a source of potassium.

Clubroot - cabbage disease

Sometimes cabbage seedlings die due to clubroot. In this case, a growth forms on the root, the cabbage does not grow, withers and dries up. Clubroot infects the soil, so it is not recommended to grow cabbage in this place for several years.

Unfortunately, it is no longer possible to save cabbage seedlings with clubroot.

Why does cabbage wither?

You can often notice that cabbage withers in the garden, despite good care and warm sunny weather. At the same time, the upper leaves wither, and the lower ones seem to spread along the ground. What is this?

Most often, cabbage wilts as a result of clubroot disease. If you dig up a diseased plant, you can see growths on its roots. This disease causes the leaves to wilt, turn yellow and stop the development of the head of cabbage.

If the plant is infected before the head begins to form, it may not form at all. It is important to know that this disease affects both cabbage and all members of the cruciferous family: radishes, turnips, rutabaga.

Kila - This is a fungal disease. It refers to soil-seed infections. The disease enters the plant from clubroot-infected soil and is transmitted by seedlings (not seeds).

The spores of this fungus can survive in the ground for 4-5 years. The disease spreads especially well at high humidity (75-90%) and at a temperature of 18-25 degrees. Kila especially loves heavy soils.

How to protect plants from clubroot?

From soil infected with clubroot, you need to remove all plants that are susceptible to this disease and sow species that are resistant to the disease. It will be possible to return cabbage and cruciferous vegetables to their original place only after 4-5 years.
It is necessary to destroy diseased plants in a timely manner and remove diseased stumps from the ground. All this must be burned.
In addition to vegetables, it is necessary to free the soil from weeds - cruciferous plants.
It is important to grow healthy, uninfected seedlings in fungus-free soil. To do this, seedlings need to be grown in greenhouses, having previously disinfected the soil (steamed with boiling water or treated with a 40% carbation solution. After treatment, the soil is covered with polyethylene and kept in this state for about 5 days.
Liming the soil will help you get rid of clubroot by 50%
Feeding plants with liquid nitrogen fertilizer will also help.
It is best to plant disease-resistant varieties, such as Tainin cabbage. Highly vulnerable cabbage varieties – Slava 1305, Amager 611.

When growing cauliflower, proper care of cauliflower, its timely planting, fertilizing and watering are important. cabbage, seeds, cultivation, sowing, seedling, vegetable garden and beds March 16, 2014, 12:59

Cabbage is a favorite vegetable of many, which has long been called the garden lady. Tasty and healthy, it is not the last place in our diet. It is successfully used in folk medicine.

They write riddles about her. And few gardeners are willing to give up the opportunity to grow lady cabbage on their land.

But without good seedlings, it is most often simply impossible to get an excellent harvest of this unique vegetable, so let’s talk about the secrets of growing healthy and strong cabbage seedlings.

Secret 1: careful selection of variety

Before buying seeds, decide what kind of cabbage you want to get in the end, why and when exactly you need it.

It is on this that the timing of sowing cabbage seedlings will depend, first of all. It’s one thing if you want to enjoy early cabbage in salads, and quite another if you need cabbage for fermentation and long-term winter storage.

White cabbage can be early-ripening, mid-ripening and late-ripening. Early varieties are low-yielding; they have rather small (weighing about 1.5 kg) heads of cabbage of medium density.

Mid-season cabbage varieties are suitable for both summer consumption and pickling, while late-season cabbage is ideal for long-term fresh storage. In addition to the fact that the ripening times of cabbage are different, the timing of its sowing is also different - remember this.

Secret 2: buying quality seeds

It is the quality of the seeds, not least of all, that will determine the quality of the seedlings, and therefore the cabbage harvest, so purchase high-quality seed material. We talked about how to buy seeds correctly, so as not to purchase expired seeds that have lost their germination due to improper storage, or even counterfeit seeds, in the articles How to buy seeds on the Internet and 10 rules for buying seeds.

And in order to avoid mistakes when choosing, read this useful material.

Secret 3: preparing the right soil mixture

To grow strong cabbage seedlings, you need to properly prepare a nutritious soil mixture.

Ideally, the soil for cabbage seedlings should be prepared in the fall, but if for some reason you did not have time to do this, you can do it right now. Mix 1 part each of turf soil and humus, add a little ash (10 tablespoons for every 10 kg of soil) and mix the substrate thoroughly.

In this case, the ash will be a source of not only micro- and macroelements, but also an excellent antiseptic that can prevent the appearance of blackleg on cabbage seedlings. Of course, you can prepare any other nutritious soil mixture - not only based on turf soil, but also, for example, peat.

The main thing is that the resulting soil is breathable and fertile. Also, when preparing a soil mixture for cabbage seedlings, never use garden soil on which cruciferous crops were previously grown: it probably contains infections characteristic of cabbage seedlings, and the likelihood of getting seedling diseases increases significantly.

Secret 4: choosing the right time for sowing cabbage seedlings

There is no point in sowing cabbage seedlings at the beginning of January - that's too early - or at the end of May - that's too late. Every gardener knows this simple truth.

But although we know the approximate dates for sowing seeds, sometimes it can be quite difficult to determine a specific date. Let's talk about everything in order.

Remember: cabbage of early varieties should be sown for seedlings from the beginning of March to approximately the 25th-28th of the month, seeds of medium varieties can be sown approximately from March 25 to April 25, and cabbage of late varieties - from the beginning to the 20th of April. If such dates for sowing cabbage seeds seem overly vague and incomprehensible to you, and you are a fan of specifics, then you will appreciate the recommendations from the article When to sow vegetables for seedlings - it describes an algorithm that helps calculate the optimal sowing time specifically for your conditions.

Well, I’ll give one more hint: you can determine the time for sowing cabbage for seedlings based on the fact that from the time of sowing the seeds until the emergence of seedlings, about 10 days pass (plus or minus a couple of days), and from the emergence of seedlings to the time of planting it should take about another 50-55 days. Based on this, it is necessary to sow cabbage for seedlings 5-60 days before the desired planting in the ground.

Secret 5: mandatory pre-sowing preparation

In the case of cabbage seeds, you should not hope “at chance” - before sowing, be sure to treat them using one of the generally accepted methods of pre-sowing seed preparation. Thanks to simple manipulations, you can practically eliminate dangerous cabbage diseases - such as black leg, powdery mildew, and so on - already during the seedling period, which means you will be able to grow healthy and strong seedlings.

If you purchased already processed seeds (this should be indicated on the package), it will be enough to simply warm them for 20 minutes in hot water (at a temperature of about 50°C). After warming up the seeds, cool them in cold water for 5 minutes - this will increase the cabbage’s resistance to various fungal diseases.

Just keep in mind: not all seeds processed by the manufacturer can be soaked! For some species this is completely unacceptable, so to avoid mistakes, read about what types of industrial seed treatment are used and what their features are.

Secret 6: correct sowing

It would seem that there is no need to bother: I bought the seeds, prepared the soil mixture and go ahead - plant it as you want. But it's not quite like that.

In order for cabbage seedlings to be strong and stocky, it is better to grow them with picking - only then the volume of its roots will be large, the seedlings themselves will grow squat and stronger, and it will be easier to transplant to a permanent place. How to sow cabbage correctly?

Early cabbage seeds should be sown in a tray or planter. Before sowing, water the soil thoroughly and try not to moisten it any further until the seedlings appear - this will prevent the seedlings from getting “blackleg” disease. Why water the soil generously before sowing?

The thing is that cabbage seeds need a lot of water to germinate - about 50% of their weight. When the seedlings appear, they need to be thinned out, leaving a feeding area of approximately 2x2 cm.

After 2 weeks, when the seedlings have already grown a little, they need to be picked, planted according to a 3x3 cm pattern, for example in cassettes. When diving, do not forget to deepen the stem of the seedlings to the cotyledons!

After another half a month, the seedlings need to be transplanted again, but into pots (peat pots, plastic or paper cups or any other suitable container) - ideally their size should be 5x5 cm. Before planting the seedlings into cups, it is advisable to treat them with a weak ( blue in color) solution of copper sulfate or any other drug that prevents the appearance of fungal diseases.

If you have no desire to pick cabbage, then it is better to initially sow it in separate pots. When the time comes to plant the seedlings in a permanent place, its root system will have a large volume, and due to the fact that the plants grew in separate pots before transplantation, it is almost not damaged.

Secret 7: light for seedlings

In order for cabbage seedlings to grow strong and stocky, it is not enough to plant them correctly - you need to provide additional lighting, because ordinary daylight at home is not enough for cabbage. We illuminate the seedlings for about 12-15 hours a day using an ordinary fluorescent lamp.

Secret 8: timely watering

“Cabbage loves water and good weather” - this saying-statement is equally true both in relation to already grown heads of cabbage and in relation to its seedlings. Water the plants as needed, but try not to let the soil either dry out or become waterlogged.

To avoid overwatering, loosen the soil more often.

Secret 9: maintaining optimal temperature

When growing cabbage seedlings, you need to monitor the air temperature in the room.

The optimal temperature before cabbage sprouts is +18...+20°C, but when sprouts appear, the temperature must be lowered: during the day to +15...+17°C, and at night - to +8...+10° C (we are talking only about white cabbage!). Such seemingly sharp changes in day and night temperatures will make it possible to strengthen the seedlings and help prevent the seedlings from stretching out.

Regarding cauliflower seedlings, keep in mind: it does not tolerate low temperatures well, and this will only lead to a decrease in yield - the heads will be small and loose. The temperature regime for growing cauliflower seedlings, of course, can also fluctuate during the day and night, but, on average, the temperature must be maintained 5-7°C higher than that of white cabbage.

Secret 10: mandatory feeding

When growing cabbage seedlings, do not forget to feed them, because it is during the seedling period that young plants really need a balanced set of various nutrients that would come to them in the most easily accessible form. The first feeding should be carried out approximately 7-9 days after picking.

You can prepare the fertilizer as follows: dissolve 2 grams of potassium fertilizers and ammonium nitrate, as well as 4 grams of superphosphate in 1 liter of water. One liter of nutrient solution is enough to feed 50-60 plants.

True, in order not to burn the young roots of the seedlings, first water them and only then “feed” them. The second feeding should be done 2 weeks after the first. For it, we prepare a new nutrient solution from the same fertilizers, just doubling the amount per liter of water.

If the cabbage seedlings begin to turn a little yellow, they can be fed with a 1:10 solution of fermented slurry. The third feeding should be done a couple of days before planting cabbage seedlings in the ground, and for this we prepare a solution by mixing 3 grams with 1 liter of water. ammonium nitrate, 5 g. superphosphate and 8 g. potash fertilizers.

In this case, the dose of potassium fertilizers is increased so that the seedlings take root better in open ground, which is why this type of fertilizing is called hardening fertilizing. If you don’t want to bother with preparing fertilizers, you can use ready-made liquid complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira Lux.

Secret 11: hardening

Hardening of seedlings means a set of measures, thanks to which the root system of plants develops better and their high survival rate is ensured. Cabbage seedlings begin to harden off about 10 days before planting in the ground.

In the first day or two, we simply open the window in the room with the cabbage seedlings for 3-4 hours. Over the next few days, we take the seedlings out onto the balcony (loggia, veranda, etc.) for a couple of hours, thereby exposing them to direct sunlight.

When taking the seedlings out into the sun for the first time, we lightly shade them with gauze so that the bright spring sun does not burn the young plants. Starting from the 6th day of hardening, we reduce watering, making sure that the soil does not dry out, and place the seedlings on the balcony permanently.

There it will remain until it is planted in the ground. By the way, before planting in the ground, cabbage seedlings should have 4–5 leaves, and before planting they must be watered thoroughly.

Secret 12: disease prevention and timely treatment

If you didn’t notice: you went too far with watering, didn’t keep track of the temperature, poorly ventilated, and so on, as a result of which the seedlings got sick: blackleg, root rot or other ailments - don’t hope that the disease will go away by itself, save the seedlings immediately.

Blackleg

To combat blackleg, dry the soil inside the tray (pots), sprinkle the seedlings themselves with ash and loosen the substrate.

Root rot

In the fight against root rot (and blackleg too) of seedlings, treat it with trichoderma or rhizoplane. These are environmentally friendly biological preparations, whose effect is based on the action of specially grown mycelium, which, as it develops, releases substances that inhibit various pathogens.

Treatment with trichodermin allows you to create a protective zone from microorganisms around the roots of plants, and treatment with rhizoplan promotes the absorption of iron by seedlings, due to which they develop immunity to the same black leg. In addition, rhizoplane allows seedlings to fight not only blackleg, but also various bacterioses, stem and root rots.

How to administer medications

Trichodermin should be added to the soil mixture before planting cabbage seedlings in pots, at the rate of 1 gram. preparation for 1 plant. Along with trichodermin, it is necessary to add a grain of barley to the soil, treated with microspores of the fungus - it is cultivated on it.

You can simply water the plants with Rhizoplan or spray the seedlings with the drug, having previously diluted 1 gram per 100 grams. water.

Cruciferous flea beetle

In the fight against cruciferous flea beetle (small striped bugs) - the worst enemy of cabbage seedlings - early treatment of seedlings with the drug Intavir will help you.

I revealed to you all the secrets of growing strong cabbage seedlings - well, at least those that I knew :) I would be glad if you share your secrets of growing cabbage seedlings in the comments. And a little more about planting and growing cabbage: Every amateur gardener strives to grow a small amount of seedlings on his own.

How to grow cabbage seedlings? It is cultivated in warm greenhouses and greenhouses, but a small amount, for further planting in the country, can be sown in boxes at home.

Early cabbage seeds are sown on March 1-15, mid-season cabbage seeds - on March 15 - April 15. In order to grow cabbage seedlings, certain conditions must be provided. This is sowing seeds in a nutrient mixture consisting of turf soil, peat and sand, which is filled in boxes measuring 50x30x8, as well as lighting and temperature conditions.

For sowing, the largest, most uniform seeds measuring at least 1.2 mm in early and 1.5-2 mm in mid-ripening and late varieties are selected. The seeds are dipped in hot water (48-50 ° C) for 20 minutes, then quickly transferred to cold for cooling. Such heating contributes to the healing and hardening of the seed.

To improve germination and yield, seeds are soaked for 7-8 hours in a solution of manganese sulfate (1 g per 1 liter of water), then slightly dried to a free-flowing state and sown. Seeds in boxes are laid out every 1-1.5 cm, 2 are spent per box -3 g. The grooves are covered with peat in a layer of 0.5-1 cm. In a few days sprouts will appear.

During this period, monitor the temperature, air and soil humidity. From the moment of sowing until the emergence of seedlings, the temperature should be 18-20 degrees Celsius, after the emergence of seedlings it is lowered to 6-8 degrees. The reduced temperature is maintained for 5-7 days.

Then it is increased to 15 - 18 ° C. The plants need to be provided with lighting during the full daylight hours, otherwise they will stretch out, and the root system does not have time to take root, and good seedlings will not work out. Cabbage seedlings are grown for 40-60 days with picking ( seating) or without it. Picking is used if it is impossible to prepare the required area of protected soil (greenhouse) for seedlings in the early period.

Seeds are sown densely, since seedlings at the very beginning of growth do not need a large feeding area. This makes caring for the seedlings easier, but it requires a larger area for further growth.

If the seedlings are not planted in the ground, they must be picked. Picking begins when the first true leaf appears on the seedlings. Plants are planted directly into a greenhouse or greenhouse, but most often into nutrient pots 7x7 cm.

Seedlings develop well in pots made of peat and sawdust in a ratio of 7:2. Cabbage seedlings also grow well in nutrient cubes. To make them, the moist soil mixture is placed in a low box, leveled and slightly compacted.

After 2 - 3 hours, this mixture is cut into cubes in a box, up to 40 pieces are obtained. In the center of each cube, depressions are made and seedlings are planted in them.

Seedlings grown in such cubes take root well when transplanted into open ground and give an earlier harvest, since they are later planted in the soil along with it. When transplanting seedlings, make sure that the roots in the pot are well compressed with the soil in the pot. Inexperienced gardeners do not press the root of the seedling, but its thin stem, and later the seedling dies.

After picking, the plants are watered with water at room temperature and not exposed to the sun for three to four days. The best air temperature in the first days after the pick is 10-15 degrees Celsius.

When growing cabbage without picking, the seeds are sown immediately in peat pots or cubes from March 25 to April 1. When the seedlings grow two true leaves, they are fed with complete fertilizer with microelements. Fertilizing is carried out by watering the leaves of plants.

The second feeding is done during the beginning of hardening in the open air. Sometimes the stem of young seedlings at soil level becomes thinner and darker. As a result, the seedlings wither and die.

This disease is called "blackleg". To stop the disease, temporarily stop watering and treat the seedlings with a solution of potassium permanganate. Then sprinkle the diseased area of the stem with ash.

How to grow cabbage seedlings will not be such a difficult question if you follow these recommendations.

Kira Stoletova

Often, with inappropriate care, cabbage seedlings dry out. In this case, you need to act immediately, because this is how the symptoms of dangerous diseases appear.

Why do cabbage seedlings dry out?

To prevent the leaves of seedlings from withering, you need to avoid the main mistakes during sowing and transplanting. The leaves of cabbage seedlings dry out for the following reasons:

High temperature and dry air. In hot conditions, the seedling withers and the leaves on the stem dry out. Containers with seedlings are grown at temperatures from 10°C to 20°C.
Insufficient light. Cabbage needs exposure to direct sunlight. Thanks to good lighting, the bush grows and strengthens much faster.
Acidic soil. Due to improperly selected soil, the plant may become sick. Vegetable crops need clean and fertilized soil with neutral acidity. Suitable soil for growing is soil based on sterile peat or coconut.
Incorrect watering. Young bushes require abundant, timely and regular watering.
Poor quality prevention and treatment of the bush. To prevent the seedling from getting sick and the bush not to wither, you must follow the proportions in calculating the solution when fertilizing the soil or root system.
Replanting to a permanent place in the garden. During planting in open ground, some of the roots are noticeably damaged. This is what causes the seedlings to turn yellow. After 5-6 days it will take root and will gradually grow

Any stressful situation for the bush causes yellowing in its lower part.

Diseases of cabbage seedlings

When the leaves of cabbage seedlings dry, the plant must be checked for all kinds of diseases. Clubroot and blackleg are considered the most dangerous diseases for vegetables: they deplete the plant. If a plant is affected by blackleg, the stem becomes thin, wilted and covered with dark spots. The disease spreads quickly, so disinfection is carried out immediately.

To save bushes from blackleg, you will have to remove diseased plants and spray healthy specimens with a solution of potassium permanganate. To do this you will need 10 g of manganese mixed with 15 liters of water. Pots or boxes with treated seedlings are taken out to a cool room and not watered for several days. These measures help stop the spread of a dangerous disease.

A large number of seedlings die due to clubroot. This is a growth on the root system, due to which the bush stops growing and dies. Clubroot infects the soil, so it is not recommended to plant other plants in place of diseased vegetables for 3 years. It is impossible to save such vegetables - they are destroyed.

Disease Prevention

The soil is treated with boiling water before planting seeds.
The seeds are disinfected. To do this, use a solution of potassium permanganate, where they are kept for about 10 minutes.
The seeds are not sown too thickly; sprouting is possible.
Monitor watering: it is important not to overwater the seedlings, as high humidity provokes the appearance of blackleg.

Drying due to pest

Drugs "Intavir", "Bankol". They are prepared according to the accompanying instructions and used no later than 20 days before harvest.
Vinegar solution. You need to mix 9% vinegar with about 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.
Tomato tops. To do this, 4 kg of stepsons, 1 kg of dry tops are mixed with 10 liters of cold water and left for 4-5 hours, then heated, then cooled, diluted with water in half and sprayed on the seedlings in the morning or evening.
Ash, tobacco dust or black pepper are used for pollination. When handling these products, be sure to wear a mask and glasses for protection over your eyes. Spraying is carried out with a volume of the mixture of 50 g per 10 square meters. m.

One commonly used method against cruciferous flea beetles is sticky traps. Thanks to the glue on the shields, the pests stick and remain trapped. Also, flea beetles do not like wet soil, so it is recommended to water the beds more often.

Why do seedlings dry out? Gardeners' experience.

5 reasons why cotyledon leaves on tomatoes dry out

The seedlings die. Why?

Conclusion

Having complete information about proper crop care, you can easily prevent most vegetable diseases. To avoid crop loss, you need to do preliminary prevention and special hardening of the bushes.

The summer season is about to begin. Gardeners are already looking closely at the seeds, thinking about what kind of seedlings they will buy or grow. This information will be of interest to those who want to grow cabbage. Let us answer the question why cabbage seedlings turn yellow.

So, why do cabbage seedlings turn yellow? The reason for the yellowness of the leaves should be sought in the fertilizers applied to the soil. If you purchase ready-made special soil for seedlings, then there is absolutely no need to additionally feed them with anything.

In this case, the seedlings receive an excess of nutrition, in other words, they are poisoned. But don’t despair if this does happen. This situation can be corrected. To do this, you need to wash the soil.

To properly wash the soil, you will need a large amount of clean water. This water must be able to drain freely. Or an extreme measure can be used, namely, the seedlings can be transplanted into new soil.

Cabbage leaves may turn yellow due to soil components such as sea sand. Salt, which is found in sea sand, can poison the root system of seedlings. In this situation, the best solution to the problem would be to transplant young shoots into new soil. The root system of the plant will need to be washed before planting it in new soil.

But the leaves do not always turn yellow due to an excess of fertilizers. Perhaps the seedlings have turned yellow due to a lack of certain substances, for example:

phosphorus;
potassium;
gland.

If there is not enough trace element such as phosphorus in the soil, then the leaves turn yellow on the underside, they can also acquire a red-violet hue.

To the question of why the seedlings turned yellow, there may be such an answer. The soil in which it grows may lack a trace element such as potassium. In this case, the tips of the leaves acquire a yellow tint.

The entire base of the leaves may turn yellow if there is insufficient iron in the soil.

The cause of yellowness can also be an infection that came along with the seeds. To prevent this from happening, the seeds must be disinfected before planting. To do this, just immerse them in warm water for 15-20 minutes.

Leaves of cabbage seedlings wither

It also happens that the leaves of young shoots wither. Why do cabbage seedlings wither? This can happen if you water the seedlings too much and do not loosen them after each watering. If you forget to loosen the soil after each watering, the soil begins to crust over. Oxygen does not penetrate well through the crust, which means that the root system of the cabbage suffocates and rots, and accordingly, the leaves wither.

If you notice wilting leaves, you should also check the drainage hole. It may be clogged and there is nowhere for the water to drain.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to make a drainage layer in the containers.

Wilting can also occur because the soil temperature is too low, and at the same time it is filled with a large amount of water. This situation also leads to rotting of the root system. In this case, those seedlings that are still alive simply need to be transplanted into new soil. And immediately before transplanting, the roots need to be washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin.

Seedlings may begin to wither due to incorrect soil composition, namely due to its acid-base indicators. The ideal acid-base balance for cabbage seedlings will be 6-8 pH.

We hope the information we provide will help solve your problems with cabbage seedlings.