How to calculate the foundation for a house made of timber. Foundation for a house made of timber, which one is better to choose? Types of foundations

The durability of the house depends on what material was used and how well the foundation was laid. It is best to order this painstaking work from specialists, since even for a lightweight timber structure, a number of calculations must be made before laying the foundation. If you make a small mistake, you can lose your beloved home in just a year. This article will be about the intricacies of construction and how to properly lay the foundation for a house made of timber.

The foundation for building a house made of timber must be selected depending on the soil and climate, as well as the weight of the structure. But in any case, you first need to make calculations:

  1. Calculate and analyze the soil. Determine its freezing depth and characteristics. This can be done by specialists involved in geodesy in any city. Of course, such a service will not be cheap, but you won’t have to worry about the foundation cracking from spring waters or severe frosts.
  2. Calculate at what level the groundwater is located. A prerequisite for proper foundation laying is groundwater below the soil freezing level.
  3. Make calculations for the future home, based on this, choose the type of foundation. Any specialist will note that a building made of timber on two floors or with a complex massive structure needs a reliable foundation. The lightweight option is not considered in such cases.

Calculations are made for different types of foundation:

  1. By draft. This type of calculation is most often used when laying a strip foundation for a house made of timber. This method takes into account the standard loads on the foundation and is considered the simplest.
  2. In terms of strength. This calculation is rarely used for houses made of timber, only if the building has a large number of floors or a complex structure.

Only if all calculations are followed will the foundation perform its main functions for decades. The main functions of the foundation for the construction of a house made of laminated veneer lumber, profiled timber, etc.: support the structure of the house and prevent it from deforming or collapsing, minimize shrinkage and protect wooden wall from excess moisture.

As an example, we will tell you how to calculate the load on the foundation and select its area. The load includes the sum of the weight of the house itself (permanent) + temporary (wind, snow, etc.). For correct calculations you need to take into account the weight of the house itself with the people living in it, furniture, etc. It is also important to know whether the soil will withstand the load from the weight of the house + foundation. Professional designers take into account all these indicators with the accuracy of the weight of the material and a complete study of the soil. If you build on your own, it is difficult to perform such calculations, but you need to roughly calculate whether the foundation will hold up, as well as draw up a house plan.

House weight

Roof weight:

Dry soil has an average load of 2 to 5 kg/cm2. Knowing this figure, it is not difficult to calculate whether the soil will support the foundation of the house.

Types of foundation

Depending on how the platform rests on the ground, structures are divided into types:

  1. Columnar or pile, pile-screw
  2. Shallowly recessed tape.
  3. Monolithic.

Columnar

Columnar or pile foundations are not often used due to the use of technology. But despite this, it is an indispensable species for soil with swimming beetles and high groundwater, since the weight of the house will be concentrated on harder and more stable layers. It is mounted from individual piles or screw pipes (pile-screw), which are covered on top with special slabs (reinforced concrete or concrete) or beam structures (reaming). It is considered one of the most versatile and low-shrink type of foundation for building a house made of profiled timber and plain timber.

The pile is installed in the following steps:

  1. Marking is being done.
  2. Holes are drilled at each corner and at a distance of 1.5 m.
  3. The sand cushion is filled in.
  4. The reinforcement is tied together and lowered into the pit, filled with concrete grade M200 and higher.

Screw:

  1. Special ones are purchased screw piles.
  2. With the help of equipment or several people, they are screwed into the corners and at a distance of 1.5 meters.

Columnar:

  1. Holes are dug at the corners of the markings and at a distance of 1.5 m, a depth of 0.5 m.
  2. A sand cushion is laid.
  3. Columns are laid out from brick or other material.

Tape

This type of foundation is recommended by experts for a lightweight version of a timber building. For the lungs one-story houses This the best option. It is practical and suitable for soil with low groundwater levels and low freezing levels. It is poured manually or using a construction mixer for concrete grade M200 and higher. You can make this type of concrete by taking cement, sand and crushed stone (1x2x2) in certain proportions yourself. Instead of sand and crushed stone, you can use ASG. It is installed in the following steps:

  1. The formwork is made from boards.
  2. Sand pillow.
  3. Metal piping with fittings (you can use old pipes and other waste materials that are suitable in shape).
  4. Pouring concrete.
  5. Afterwards, the concrete needs to mature and settle, then the formwork is removed.

More details on how to fill the tape base can be seen in the video below:

Slab (monolithic)

A solid monolithic reinforced concrete slab is used as a base. It is chosen slightly larger than the size of the base of the house. You can fill the slab yourself. To do this, a structure is made from iron beams, crossing them with each other, and filled with concrete. This type of foundation is the most expensive and is suitable for soil with moving top layers or heaving soil. For one-story house This slab can also be used as a floor, in large ones such as the floor of a basement floor.

In our country, such a foundation is practically not used for the construction of a lightweight timber house.

Other types of foundation

You can also find other types of foundations that are suitable for buildings made of timber, for example rubble. This base is made of rubble stone bonded with cement. This is very labor-intensive work, but the foundation is one of the strongest. You can also watch concrete foundation, which is poured and compacted into formwork.

Under no circumstances should the foundation be left idle without load in the winter, it may become deformed and construction will be complicated. It is better if all construction proceeds as a continuous process. This is why planning is so important.

Which foundation to choose for a house with a basement?

When choosing a foundation for a two-story or one-story house made of timber with a basement, you need to take into account not only the proximity of groundwater and the nature of the soil, but also the features of the structure itself. For such purposes, a strip base is best suited; it is easiest to lay gaps for arches and doors. All work is carried out in several stages and has a number of nuances:

  1. First, markings are made according to the building design.
  2. A pit is being dug, which exceeds the size of the basement by 1 m.
  3. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion of 60 cm or more. Instead of sand, you can use crushed stone or ASG.
  4. Formwork with reinforcement is installed.
  5. Foundation waterproofing is being done.
  6. After removing the basement walls, vertical and horizontal waterproofing is performed. For this purpose, roll, impregnating or poured materials are used.
  7. The final stage is a blind area, which will act as protection from rain and water runoff. The width of the blind area must be at least 80 cm. Paving slabs are used for decoration.

When choosing concrete, you should first try a small number of different brands and manufacturers, this will make it easier to choose the right quality.

Rules and subtleties of laying a foundation


Laying the first log

The first log also needs to be waterproofed. For this purpose, special waterproofing roll or coating materials are used. Laying is carried out on slats spaced at a distance of 25-30 cm. It is best to use moisture-resistant types of wood as a base log: aspen, larch, cedar. For fastening to the pile, special metal corners and brackets are used.

The first crown of the log house must be treated before laying, so you can coat it on all sides.

How to choose a foundation pouring company?

Enlisting the help of specialists at the first stage of building a house made of timber is the right decision. This is the only way to avoid multiple errors and save on costs. And large companies - developers will do the work efficiently, using all modern technologies. There are many companies on the market for this type of activity, but the selection of specialists must be approached carefully. The companies we represent have been working in the construction industry for more than 10 years and have excellent reviews of their work. Developer companies performing foundation pouring work:

BaniDoma LLC

The main office of the company is located in the Kostroma region, but in 203 a branch was opened in Moscow. The material is offered at wholesale prices. The construction and installation of the foundation is carried out in the shortest possible time. The disadvantage of the company is that there is a queue for work due to its high reputation. The foundation is made of any type, all calculations are carried out.

LLC "Alexia"

Has a high reputation in Moscow and St. Petersburg, the work is carried out after the conclusion of the contract. You will be pleased with the low prices for materials and work. But the company has a disadvantage: they only install strip foundations.

LLC "GarantStroyProekt"

The company constructs wooden houses and installs foundations. Free specialists will visit the site and calculate the foundation. The disadvantage of the company is that they will not build the foundation separately, only when ordering a house or bathhouse later.

Price for installation of the base

The average cost of a foundation depends on its type, materials used, qualifications of workers, and distance from Moscow. A strip foundation costs on average slightly higher than a pile-screw foundation. The reason for this is the large staged nature of the work and the cost of material. Main factors influencing the final price:

  1. Base width.
  2. Let's cover the buildings.
  3. Brand and type of concrete.
  4. Soil type and proximity to groundwater.

On average, the price is per 1 m/linear. From 5,000 rub. In central Russia, clay soil predominates, so a pile foundation is increasingly used for a one-story log house. The design is unpretentious to the type of soil and does not require large earthworks. Price on average per 1 m/linear. pile-screw from 4,000 rubles, block-column from 2,000 rubles. Monolithic is the most expensive and labor-intensive. Its installation requires preliminary marking and digging of a pit, a sand cushion of at least 50 cm. For two-story heavy structures, additional calculations of stiffeners are required. Price per m2 from 5,000 rub. When choosing a foundation for your home, it is best to contact a specialist; this is the only way you will avoid many mistakes and save your money and nerves.

Building a foundation for a house on a country plot is a responsible undertaking. And even if you decide to entrust this work to a contractor, you need to know as much as possible about the supporting foundations for the house.

How to choose a foundation design for a wooden house

The supporting foundation for a house is arranged taking into account many different circumstances. After all, the durability of the building and the safety of living depend on its design. If the foundation is not built correctly, the house will be constantly damp, accompanied by mold and a nasty putrid odor.

When laying the foundation, the following factors must be taken into account:

  1. Location of the building. After selecting it, it is necessary to carry out exploratory drilling in order to accurately determine the composition and characteristics of the soil at the site where the support base will be installed. wooden house. It is not advisable to install a house near natural reservoirs or ravines, since the soil in such places is unstable. It is also necessary to clarify the possibility of laying communications: water supply, electricity, sewerage.
  2. House size. This factor directly affects the amount of load on the foundation, and both the height of the building and its number of storeys matter. The perimeter dimensions are not so important, since as they increase, the supporting surface also increases.
  3. Availability of a basement or ground floor.
  4. Surface topography at the installation site. For example, when building on a slope, the use of a strip foundation is associated with large volumes of excavation work.
  5. Properties of the soil base. The quality and composition of the soil can be determined by the nature of water flow after rain:
    • clay soils slowly allow water to pass through, and if they come to the surface, a dense crust forms on them;
    • loams quickly allow moisture to pass through, but dry out slowly;
    • sandy soil drains water quickly;
    • Peaty soil takes a long time to dry out, and grass does not grow well on it.

Each soil type has a different bearing capacity. Great importance has the depth of groundwater and the freezing point of the soil.

Types of foundations

In suburban construction, the following types of support foundations are used:

  • columnar;
  • pile;
  • tape;
  • slab.

The types of foundations are not limited to the above list, which shows only the most commonly used forms.

Columnar structures

They are made in the following order:

  1. Site preparation - you need to remove the turf layer and all plants.
  2. Mark the foundation and use pegs to mark places for installing pillars. In this case, the distance between their axes should not exceed two meters. Pillars must be installed at each intersection or junction of the foundation along the perimeter of the marking and under the internal partitions.

    Places for installing poles must be marked with pegs

  3. Drill holes for the posts. The depth of the pillar should be greater than the freezing point of the soil where the foundation is installed by 30–50 centimeters.
  4. At the bottom of the pit you need to arrange a sand and gravel cushion. First, a layer of sand 10–15 centimeters thick is poured, then gravel of the middle fraction and both layers are compacted tightly. For better compaction, the bedding can be shed with water.
  5. Make reinforcement using steel reinforcement with a diameter of 6–8 millimeters. The reinforcement mesh frame is made on the surface and lowered vertically into the pit. Depending on the size of the column, a four-rod or six-rod reinforcement method can be used.

    The reinforcement cage is lowered vertically into the well

  6. Install the formwork at the required height. For wooden house the protrusion of the pillars above the ground must be at least 50 centimeters. All upper sections of the formwork must be aligned strictly horizontally and at the same height along a stretched cord. Pillar heads can also be made with brickwork.
  7. Once the pillars are ready, you can install a grillage on them - the supporting foundation of the house.

When digging pits, it is advisable to use TISE technology. This means that a widening is created at the bottom of the pit, increasing the area of ​​support of the foundation on the ground.

Pile foundations

For a wooden house without a basement or ground floor, the most suitable option for constructing a support base is a pile structure. The marking procedure and rules for placing piles are the same as for a columnar foundation.

A pile foundation is installed on soft soils and if there is a slope on the site. The reason for constructing such a support base is also the nearby groundwater.

The main structural element is metal screw piles. They are wrapped in soil, aligning the upper ends along a stretched cord. A grillage is mounted on top of the pillars. It can be made from the following materials:

  • wooden beam;
  • metal profiles - beam or channel;
  • cast concrete grillage.

The advantage of pile devices is the complete absence of excavation work and the quick installation of the foundation.

Disadvantages include the impossibility of installing a basement or basement space. Difficulties also arise when setting up a garage.

Strip foundations

Such support bases are the most popular in the construction of wooden buildings of any type. The following technology is used for the manufacture of strip foundations:

  1. The foundation is marked using pegs and a cord.

    The marking is made so that the corner of the tape is at the intersection of the stretched cords

  2. The soil layer and plants are removed from the working site.
  3. According to the markings, trenches are dug to the designed depth, taking into account the freezing point of the soil. The width of the trenches should be the size of the foundation plus 40–50 centimeters for convenience during work.
  4. A drainage layer of sand and crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured onto the bottom, spilled with water and compacted. The gravel-sand cushion will protect the foundation from the effects of ground movements.

    The drainage bedding must be compacted using special equipment or manually

  5. The formwork is being installed. The material for its manufacture must be selected taking into account the possibility of its reuse. For example, if you plan to install a roof made of metal tiles or other similar material, it is advisable to use planed boards for formwork. After dismantling, the boards can be used for sheathing. When installing a roof made of bituminous shingles, you can use plywood for formwork, which will be needed for the roof. To protect materials from contact with concrete mortar, the formwork walls are covered with plastic film before reinforcement.

    The material for formwork must be selected taking into account the possibility of its further use.

  6. Reinforcement is made with steel rods with a diameter of 6–8 millimeters. The reinforcement mesh pattern can be four- or six-bar depending on the size of the foundation. The maximum distance between the rods should be no more than 40 centimeters.
  7. Concreting is carried out layer by layer in a continuous mode.

The holding time of the foundation until complete crystallization of concrete is 28 days. In the hot season, it must be covered with film and periodically watered. Premature drying of concrete will lead to cracking of the foundation.

At the end of this period, the supporting foundation is ready for further construction.

Slab foundations

Such structures must be installed during construction on the most unreliable soils using the following technology:

  1. Mark the site, remove the soil layer and vegetation.
  2. Compact the soil in the cleared area using a vibrating plate. In this case, it will settle to a depth of 50 centimeters.

    The bottom of the dug pit must be compacted

  3. Cover the compacted surface with a layer of geofabric overlapping the walls.
  4. Arrange a drainage layer of sand and gravel, level and compact it.

    A drainage bedding is made in the pit and formwork is installed

  5. Lay a layer of insulation from foam polystyrene boards, wrap the geofabric overlap.
  6. Perform waterproofing with bitumen mastic. Before applying it, you need to treat the surface with a primer in accordance with the recommendations on the bitumen resin packaging.
  7. Install a reinforcing mesh made of steel bars with a diameter of 8 millimeters. The distance between the rods should be no more than 40 centimeters. The thickness of the slab should also be about 40 centimeters.

    The mesh size of the reinforcement mesh should not exceed 40 cm

  8. Concrete pouring must be done continuously in one go. It is best to use the services of a concrete pump and a team of concrete workers for this, since you will need specific equipment - concrete vibrators.

Conditioning and maintenance of the foundation should be carried out as indicated above.

Do-it-yourself foundation construction

It should be noted right away that it is impossible to make a high-quality support base alone. Already at the marking stage, you will have to invite an assistant to check the quality of the work performed. But the main difficulties will arise during the installation of formwork, reinforcement and concreting. It is important to pour the foundation in one go, otherwise a seam will form, which can subsequently become a source of crack initiation.

To perform all operations quickly and efficiently, you will need the following equipment:

  1. Entrenching tool for digging trenches.
  2. Measuring instruments for checking horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is advisable to have a plumb line and a construction laser level.
  3. Carpentry tools for the manufacture and installation of formwork: saw, axe, hammer, nail puller.
  4. Vibrating plate for soil compaction.
  5. Concrete mixer for preparing the solution.
  6. Vibrator for compacting concrete mortar.

It should be noted that all equipment can be rented.

Photo gallery: foundation pouring tool

Portable vibrator for concrete compaction Preparing concrete using a concrete mixer is much faster and easier Laser construction level will ensure the accuracy of horizontal alignment Tool for compacting soil foundations

  1. When preparing the solution yourself, you need to control the quality of the water if it is taken from natural sources. The water should be free of small insects and vegetation.
  2. When concreting, you need to carefully compact the concrete and pierce it with a pin, preventing the formation of air bubbles.
  3. Pouring concrete should be done along “beacons” positioned strictly horizontally. To do this, you can use wooden blocks, metal corners of the required size or pipes. All of the listed materials may be useful in further work, so they need to be removed from the concrete a few days after pouring. The remaining cavities in the foundation surface must be sealed with mortar.
  4. The distance from the frame beam of the house to the ground must be at least 50 centimeters.
  5. Waterproofing must be applied to the surface of the foundation. Under the first beam it is necessary to lay protection from moisture in the form of a double layer of roofing material.

Video: do-it-yourself pile-strip foundation

Laying the first timber on the foundation

The lower crown of a wooden house fails faster than others. Therefore, its design should be as maintainable as possible.

Installation of timber on a concrete plane

To fix it, two methods are used:

  1. Stud - embedded in the foundation when pouring, its height should ensure through passage through the beam and placement of a nut with a wide washer on top of it. After tightening, the protruding end is cut off with a grinder.
  2. A rod is installed into the monolith of a grillage, slab or tape during concreting. During the installation of the first beam, holes are drilled in it and it is put on protruding dowels.

Installing the first beam on poles or piles

In such cases, fastening is carried out only with dowels or threaded rods. During repairs, dismantling is carried out using jacks, after which the worn beam is cut out and replaced with a new one.

Fastening to screw piles is done with self-tapping screws onto additional plates, which are welded to the pile head. This is especially convenient to do from below, since the gap between the ground and the timber for a wooden house is at least half a meter.

Video: laying the first crown of a timber house

Now you can make qualified decisions on any issues regarding foundation construction and make it yourself. And if it is done by a contractor, he will not be able to deceive you. I wish you success!

Columnar foundation

The construction of a house from timber is often carried out with the involvement of the owners in order to save their own funds. The beginning of construction is the laying of the foundation. At the same time, columnar is the most economical option. The relevance of the columnar foundation is also high due to other factors, including the foundation being susceptible to the vagaries of the soil and not delaying the process of constructing a residential building. Let's look at all the features.

What is a columnar foundation - advantages, disadvantages, features

Foundations where reinforced concrete or rubble pillars, asbestos pipes, single-point monolithic or brick structures, as well as logs are used as supports are called columnar; there are also combined forms. Mostly, modern columnar foundations are used for lightweight structures - timber houses, frame buildings, bathhouses, gazebos and other objects.

Pros of the base:

  1. Low cost. Compared to pouring concrete, pillars cost up to 30% of the total cost of the construction budget. The monolith will “take away” up to 60%, depending on the specifics of the project.
  2. High speed of foundation construction. Unlike poured structures, columnar foundations are erected several times faster, therefore, the main construction will begin earlier.
  3. The budget construction of a columnar foundation can be done without the use of specialized equipment if we are talking about a one-story residential building or ancillary facility - a bathhouse, gazebo, terrace and others.
  4. The speed of shrinkage is one of the design features. How a columnar foundation works: under turned supports, the pressure on the ground is higher and, therefore, you won’t have to wait more than a year (as in the case of a monolithic foundation). The shrinkage time is reduced to several weeks.
  5. A column foundation is a possibility for construction on capricious soils, heaving, floating, with seasonal flooding or on terrain with a strong slope.

Minuses:

  1. The columnar platform is not intended for the construction of multi-story buildings made of heavy materials - brick or concrete. In industrial construction, for this purpose, frame reinforcement straps and completely different dimensions of objects are provided, which are unacceptable for private use.
  2. Any columnar foundations for wooden houses do not provide for a basement or basement. Requirements for additional useful meters are planned at the house design stage.
  3. It requires major insulation of the floors and the installation of a “catch-up” - special shields or laying a wall between the pillars, protecting the space under the timber house from snow drift, ice and other seasonal manifestations.

Depending on the type of columnar foundation, the service life of the foundation varies. The degree of durability is proportional to the material used to make the supports.

Types of columnar base - pros and cons of each material

The properties of construction raw materials will naturally affect the quality of the columnar foundation, its cost and labor intensity. For example:

To assess the possibility of using a columnar foundation on a site, you should contact your local land office or architectural department. The departments must have information about the nature of the soil in any area. For additional consultations, you can contact private construction companies that have their own design bureau and can offer you a diagram of a columnar foundation for any timber house.

In addition to differences in building materials, columnar foundations for wooden houses have a number of differences in design.

  • Columnar. These include prefabricated structures made of brick, rubble concrete, poured columns and plastic formwork. The disadvantage of a columnar foundation is that the design is only suitable for light buildings - bathhouses, gazebos, frame buildings. The advantage is the speed of construction and low cost.
  • Pillar foundation. Such a foundation has significant pros and cons. It consists of free-standing pillars with a concrete platform. One of the features of this foundation for houses made of timber is the creation of a solid foundation for the embedded crown and logs, which serve as the basis of the floor. Dignity similar design is particularly stable on capricious soils. Such a foundation can support objects of more than one floor. The disadvantage is that it requires much more time and money to install.
  • Columnar base with grillage. A house made of timber has a powerful, reliable belt that allows you to build a two-story structure on any soil - heaving, floating, with high level occurrence of groundwater. A similar columnar foundation for a house made of timber will cost more than without a grillage, but for a residential property large area choose it more often.

For optimal choice, private builders are recommended not to take only cost as a basis, but to refer to the documentation “Columnar foundation SNiP and GOST” - they contain all the necessary parameters that affect the future operation of the structure.

Regulatory aspects

Correct installation of the foundation of a private log house is the key to the safety of residents. All parameters of the future foundation are regulated regulatory documents– SNiP 2.02.0183 and GOST 24022-80, 24476-80. They indicate the following:

  • Position and number of floors of the house. The proximity of cliffs, reservoirs, passing mines, wells or wells is taken into account. The total area of ​​the building is not taken into account - only the weight of the house affects the load and pressure of the foundation on the ground.
  • Bearing capacity and soil type. There are only 5 of them - clayey, loamy, sandy, peat, limestone. The behavior of the soil during rain will help you distinguish one from the other.
  • Soil freezing depth and groundwater level. In the first case, the base of the post should be lower, in the second – higher, in order to avoid heaving during seasonal changes.

In addition, GOST for columnar foundations regulates the use of cement grade for poured columns or grillage, coupled with soil characteristics.

Ideally, a surveyor is involved in the calculations and selection of the optimal foundation option for a specific timber house. A private builder should also inquire about the foundations of nearby properties.

Features of the construction of a columnar foundation

Since the types of columnar foundations differ from each other, the installation also varies. Only the preparatory stages of work are similar: removing the fertile layer of soil, leveling, creating a shock-absorbing cushion, etc.

  1. Details:
  2. Markings for holes are applied on the leveled area. They are guided by the following calculation: the distance between the pillars of a columnar foundation is equal to 1 m of the length of the object’s wall. To work, they use wooden stakes and twine stretched between them.

Columnar foundation

  • Using a garden auger, holes are made. They must be wide enough to accommodate posts, masonry or block structures. The depth of the columnar foundation must exceed the level of soil freezing + 30 cm for adding sand and gravel - a shock-absorbing cushion. A hole more than 1 m deep must be strengthened along the walls so that the soil does not crumble inward. To do this, you can use polystyrene foam boards, which will play the role of insulation.
  • Finished holes for filling are reinforced with steel rod - 3–4 pcs. They simply dig into the ground inside the hole. If a prefabricated columnar foundation with a reinforced concrete grillage is provided, the ends of the reinforcement protrude from the foundation by 25–30 cm. To connect the foundation to the embedded crown, a pin protruding from the middle of the column is sufficient - the reinforcement in this case is not visible.
  • Laying bricks or installing ready-made pillars is not a difficult task. It is only important to check the height of the pillars according to the building level. Concrete is poured slowly, using a vibrator to eliminate voids in the thickness of the solution. If the weather is hot, then the finished structures will shed cold water until white foam (milk) appears on the surface. Foam indicates complete subsidence of concrete.

The finished monolithic or prefabricated columnar foundation is kept for two weeks. After which it is waterproofed with molten bitumen, mastics or rolled materials and construction continues.

Installation of a columnar foundation

It is distinguished by the design of a concrete “shoe” - a stand for brickwork or a monolithic pillar. Procedure:

  • After removing the top layer of soil, it is necessary to prepare a pit. The depth of the columnar foundation is different; there are: non-recessed, recessed and slightly recessed options. The average value - from 0.7 to 1 m - is typical for the climate of central Russia.
  • On a leveled and compacted surface, areas for installing “shoes” are marked. This could be single brick masonry, monolithic pouring 10–15 cm thick, or ready-made concrete slabs - see photo above.
  • After installing the stands, the pillars are assembled or poured. In the latter case, formwork from boards is built and reinforced. The work is carried out in calm weather - the concrete is less enriched with air, and as a result, there are fewer voids. The formwork cannot be removed until the concrete has cured.

When the pillars are ready, they are waterproofed. The pit is covered with layers of sand and gravel 15 cm thick. The remaining space is covered with excavated soil. The ends of the pillars extend out of the ground by at least 30 cm.

This columnar foundation resembles a monolithic strip. The work is carried out in two stages:

  • First, holes are dug for the pillars. The dimensions of the columnar foundation and the installation description are similar to the construction of a simple columnar foundation.
  • Then wooden formwork is made to pour the concrete grillage. It is pre-reinforced with a large amount of special wire. Rods cannot be welded together. High temperature will affect the strength of the knots. Therefore, the reinforcement is knitted by hand. For the right choice For rods and knitting patterns, it is recommended to refer to GOST standards or special literature.
  • Pouring is carried out slowly using a vibrating rammer. You can also use a reinforcing rod, piercing the thickness of the concrete and expelling the air, but the quality of automatic assistance is better.

The formwork cannot be removed for several weeks. The structure is first covered with plastic film to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture - drying must occur naturally, otherwise cracks cannot be avoided.

Conclusion

Independent foundation construction - The best way save on building a log house. To help home craftsmen who want to get by on our own, a video is offered - making a columnar foundation with your own hands. Taking into account the nuances of each type of foundation, it is possible to obtain a high-quality platform for your own home.

This video shows in detail how to make a columnar foundation with your own hands:

In most cases, when we talk about the foundation, it means.

It is the most common and has an optimal combination of performance qualities and cost-effectiveness of construction.

In addition, strip bases have a lot of design options, which expands their capabilities and allows you to choose the most successful option.

Such qualities have made the tape a recognized leader among all alternative options.

Despite some negative aspects, this type of foundation is the most preferable for buildings for various purposes, especially for private houses.

A characteristic feature of wooden houses is their low weight. The material has excellent heat-saving properties, so creating thick walls is impractical.

In addition, the specific gravity of wood is significantly less than that of brick, concrete or other dense material.

Therefore, the load on the foundation is significantly reduced, which makes it possible to use a lightweight version of the foundation.

Suitable for a house made of timber:

The first option allows you to get a fairly reliable foundation, making do with smaller volumes of earthen and construction work. At the same time, there are some limitations associated with hydrogeological conditions, complex soil composition, the presence and depth of groundwater.

The second option requires a lot of labor and money, so for log houses it is considered irrational and is used only in difficult conditions.

It is impossible to unambiguously determine the most successful type of foundation based on the material of the walls. It is necessary to consider the specific conditions and factors influencing the choice of tape type.


Shallow strip foundation

Shallow strip foundation differs from classic version shallow depth of immersion into the ground. Traditional type requires immersion to a level below the freezing point. This requires creating a trench 2 m or more deep.

Increases belt size, automatically increasing flow rate building materials and money. Shallow foundations are immersed to a relatively shallow depth, not exceeding the freezing level of the soil.

The option is attractive, but it can create problems with frost heaving, so it is necessary to first study the hydrogeological situation on the site, find out the depth of groundwater, explore the composition of the soil and other data.

However, for light buildings, the use of a shallow strip foundation is considered the most rational solution.

How to choose concrete

The optimal choice of material is M300 concrete. Heavier grades are used for multi-storey residential or industrial buildings. The use of less dense and durable grades is impractical, since practically no savings or advantages are achieved, but the margin of safety of the base disappears.

Therefore, in practice, no one thinks about the choice, using a proven and reliable option.

Laying depth

Shallow foundations are usually immersed to a depth of 40-70 cm. This is an average value, but in practice it is necessary to consider the composition of the soil, heaving loads and other criteria. The more negative factors, the deeper the tape should be immersed.

At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the magnitude of frost heaving, which creates high loads on the side surface of the tape and forces the foundation to be strengthened.

Sometimes the solution to the problem is to reduce the base, reducing the loads and balancing them along the entire length of the belt.

It is also necessary to take into account the size of the base, which is recommended to be at least 30-40 cm.

General installation diagram:

  1. Work progress in order
  2. Preparing the site, removing topsoil and leveling the surface.
  3. Marking the trench.
  4. Digging a trench to a specified depth.
  5. Backfilling the sand cushion.
  6. Installation of formwork.
  7. Creation of an armored belt.
  8. Concrete pouring, curing.

Completion of work.

The procedure for creating a strip base almost never changes, which makes it more understandable and increases the reliability of the result.

Width of strip foundation for timber

The width of the tape is the value that requires. The methodology and specifics of this event do not allow obtaining correct results without experience and preparation. Contacting specialists is the best option to resolve the issue, but this will require a certain fee and will take an unknown amount of time.

Usually the issue is resolved by using online calculators, obtaining quite high-quality calculations, or they act “like everyone else,” taking the width of the tape at least 10 cm larger than the thickness of the walls. In any case, it is not recommended to make a tape narrower than 30 cm, since additional loads may appear during operation.

It is also possible to change hydrogeological conditions, which requires a certain margin of safety and stability.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is carried out in order to cut off moisture from the concrete strip. This will keep it in normal condition and prevent the material from being destroyed by frozen water in the winter.

  • Waterproofing also helps improve the microclimate in the house and prevent walls from getting wet due to capillary absorption.
  • Horizontal. A lower waterproofing is used, separating the sand from the tape, and an upper waterproofing, separating the concrete and wood. Most often, in both cases a double layer of roofing material is used.


Choosing concrete and reinforcement

For a shallow strip foundation, you can use a lighter type of concrete - M200. At the same time, there will not be a significant difference in cost, and the strength of the tape will be lower than when using the optimal option - concrete grade M300.

The foundation is a critical element of the building, which requires the use of the most reliable materials.

The choice of reinforcement is determined by the width of the tape. In practice, they usually proceed from the ratio of 30 cm width - 12 mm diameter of the rods. Accordingly, 40 - 14, 50 - 16, etc. Usually there are no problems, but for those who want to clarify their choice there is an option. The cross-sectional area of ​​the tape is calculated. The total cross-sectional area of ​​the reinforcement is 0.1% of the ribbon cross-section.

The resulting value is divided by 4 or 6 (the number of working rods in the arm belt). After this, the most suitable diameter of the rods is determined from the SNiP tables.

NOTE!


You can use thicker rods, but you should not choose thinner rods.

Pillow under the foundation

Sand and gravel preparation performs drainage and leveling functions. The bottom of the trench does not have an ideal surface, so a layer of backfill allows you to obtain a horizontal and level supporting platform for pouring the tape.

Water entering the layer passes into the lower layers and is either absorbed into the soil or removed through the drainage system outside the trench.

The standard backfill option is sand preparation 10-15 cm thick, a layer of fine crushed stone 10-15 cm and a surface leveling layer of sand. Pure river sand that does not contain organic inclusions is used. Each layer is carefully compacted to maximum density.


The criterion for determining the quality of compaction is the absence of shoe marks when walking on the backfill.

Installation of formwork Formwork is a form into which concrete is poured. It is assembled from edged boards 25-40 mm thick.

The shields are made outside the trench, but in close proximity to it for ease of carrying and installation.

The assembled panels are lowered into the trench, aligned along the axes and secured with spacers. They determine the width of the tape. From the outside, the panels are fixed with vertical strips driven into the ground, and stops are also used to ensure the formwork remains stationary when pouring concrete.

The specificity of concrete is its lack of resistance to axial tensile loads. The material is capable of withstanding enormous pressures, but when the load vector changes, it immediately breaks. To strengthen the tape, an armored belt assembled from metal ribbed rods is installed inside.

The frame consists of horizontal (working) and vertical (auxiliary) rods. The working rods perform the functions of an armored belt, ensuring the integrity of the belt and taking on all the loads.

Vertical reinforcement is needed only to support the working rods in the desired position until the concrete is poured, so its thickness is less.

The use of smooth rods is allowed. To assemble the frame, a special soft wire is used, but welding is also allowed.

Fill

You can mix concrete yourself, but this is a very labor-intensive and time-consuming task. It is easier and more correct to purchase the required amount of ready-made concrete, which will be delivered directly to the site and poured from a mixer.

The quality of the material produced using industrial equipment will in any case be higher than that of homemade concrete. It is also more convenient to do the pouring from a mixer, as it is faster, which will result in uniform quality of the concrete strip in any area.

You cannot pour concrete in one place, hoping that it will spill throughout the formwork. You need to approach it from different points and pour the material evenly. This will allow you to obtain a casting with the same properties. After pouring, it is necessary to water the casting with water every 4 hours for 3 days, and then, for a week, three times a day.

The formwork can be removed after 10 days, but final hardening will occur after 28 days.

Final works

Completion of the work consists of applying waterproofing, filling the sinuses and other work with the finished tape. In addition to waterproofing, insulation for the foundation (corresponding brand of EPS) is often installed.

To fill the sinuses, it is best to use clean sand to ensure the absorption of water and its prompt removal through the drainage channel.

Useful video

Conclusion

In this video you will learn how to lay a strip foundation for a wooden house made of timber:

The resulting result is completely ready to perform its functions and is capable of providing reliable and durable support for a timber-framed private house.

In contact with

The advantage of a house made of timber is its lightness, so there are no special requirements for its foundation.

At the same time, timber is a rather fragile material compared to other raw materials, so the base must be reliable and rigid.

How to choose?

To answer the question, which type of foundation is better for private house construction from laminated veneer lumber or profiled timber, you need to take into account how complex the projects of laminated veneer lumber cottages are, and also take into account the following parameters:

  • soil structure (take into account its type, freezing depth in winter, distance to groundwater, heaving);
  • the load of the house on the foundation and the soil mass as a whole;
  • building area;
  • hilly area.

The nature of the soil allows you to determine the degree of its resistance to a new building. In winter and summer, bearing capacity and the “pushing” forces of the foundation are different. From this point of view, the following types of soils are distinguished:

  • heaving (soils with a high level of water content - clayey, loamy, as well as sands with a dust fraction);
  • non-heaving (medium-grained sands, soils with a high gravel content).

Heaving soils put a lot of pressure on the foundation, so the larger its area, the stronger the load.

High groundwater levels have a flooding effect on the structure, so when choosing one or another foundation, you need to either take care of drainage or choose a design that is resistant to water masses.

To calculate the mass of the building, it is necessary to invite specialists. If this is not possible, you can independently calculate the load of the house on the foundation for a log house, adding the mass of all building elements.

It should be remembered that when designing an extension, veranda or terrace, it is necessary to calculate their weight immediately, since they are placed on common ground with the rest of the house.

Types of foundations for glued and profiled timber

There are different types of foundations for profile or laminated timber, which will help you decide which one is better to reduce the impact of heaving on the base. There are the following types of bases:

  • columnar;
  • pile;
  • shallow belt;

The process of tying a pile foundation with timber

To solve the problems of soil heaving, it is better to choose a pile foundation, as it is the least expensive and most effective. The piles are placed pointwise around the perimeter of the foundation. To eliminate the risk of skewing a house made of laminated veneer lumber, and as a result, its floors are made of timber. In practice, foundation tying is the connection of columns with durable material.

Two technologies are used to strengthen the structure:

  • threaded fastening;
  • fastening with clamps.

The first method for strengthening a building made of laminated veneer lumber is convenient if the screw piles are placed in the form of a flange. The binding process looks like this:

  1. Place roofing felt pads moistened with drying oil at the points of contact with the piles.
  2. Take a block and place it between two posts.
  3. Attach the timber to the side posts using self-tapping screws.
  4. Secure the beam to the lower base using anchors.
  5. Strengthen the connections with spikes at the outer corners.

Tying the foundation with timber onto clamps with your own hands is done as follows:

  • Place long rectangular bars on the tops of the pile using welding or self-tapping screws (depending on the material of the pillars);
  • attach U-shaped wooden blocks, slightly smaller in size (clamps), to the horizontal laminated veneer lumber;
  • connect the ends of the clamps to adjacent pile pillars;
  • check connections for tightness.

Creating a strip foundation for a timber house (video)

How to correctly calculate the foundation of a house made of timber?

To choose the right foundation, you need to calculate the depth of soil freezing, the depth of groundwater, and the dimensions of the house. Also, for foundations of different types it is necessary to calculate the settlement and strength of the structure.

Settlement is an important indicator that needs to be calculated when laying a strip foundation under a timber house with your own hands. Strength is an indicator effective for complex, multi-story buildings.

First you need to calculate the weight of the house. The weight of walls made of profiled timber of different humidity levels is 60-130 kg/m2. The weight of an attic, wooden beam floor is approximately 100-200 kg/m2, depending on the density of insulation used. The weight of the roof varies from 20 kg/m2 for corrugated sheets to 80 kg/m2 for tiles.

Having calculated all the indicators, depending on the square footage of your house, you can determine its total weight and compare it with the stability of the soil, which can withstand from 2 to 5 kg/cm 2 in a dry state.

  • calculate the weight of the building. It is assumed that there are 4 walls and 2 partitions of 4 m each made of timber, a floor, a ceiling, a roof, furniture and a stove. The wooden beam has a mass of 600 kg/m2, so to build all the walls you will need: 0.15 x 3.5 x (6+4+4+4) = 9.45 m3 of log house. Taking into account the load of the inside of the house at 100 kg per 1 m 2, the resulting weight is: 9.45 × 600 + 24 × 100 = 8070 kg.
  • calculate the snow load on the roof. The indicator is determined for each region separately. The average indicator allows you to make the following calculation: 24 × 180 = 4320 kg, where 180 kg/m 2 is the average load rate;
  • wind load. It is necessary to multiply the area of ​​the building by the sum of numbers (40+15h) = 24x(40+15×3.5)=2220 kg, where h is the height of the walls.

By adding all the values, you can find out the approximate load of the house on the foundation.

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