Two cesspools. Operating principle and economic effect

Recently, there has been a tendency for city residents to move into their own homes. Accustomed to the benefits of civilization, city residents even in country houses strive to make their lives as comfortable as possible by installing water supply and sewerage systems.

And villagers do not lag behind the townspeople, taking all measures to install hot and cold water supply and warm bathrooms. Both of them receive drinking water directly from the bowels of the earth, from wells or boreholes where products may fall waste water. Therefore, the issue of wastewater disposal is now acute.

There are three ways to solve this problem:

installing a shambo or constructing a simple cesspool, from which the contents will be periodically pumped out by a sewer truck;
installation of a septic tank with two or three chambers with biological wastewater treatment, through the natural process of decomposition of organic and inorganic waste;
installation of septic tanks with deep wastewater treatment using bacteria and microbes.

But regardless of the chosen method of waste disposal, all structures must be made in accordance with the rules and sanitary standards.

The most economical and simple option wastewater disposal for many people means building a cesspool at their dacha with their own hands, this is especially true for people who have limited financial resources.

A cesspool is a container, naturally sealed, into which all sewage water from the house is discharged.

According to the rules, you cannot make a cesspool with an earthen bottom.

As sewer waste accumulates, the homeowner calls for special equipment that pumps out the contents of the pit and then transports it to certain places.

When installing a cesspool, you should calculate the daily water consumption of everyone living in the house. Based on these calculations, the volume of the cesspool is selected.

It should be noted that with a large volume of water consumed (more than 1 cubic meter), this type of waste disposal is not suitable, purely for economic reasons, since pumping will have to be done quite often, and the cost of special equipment services is not small.

On average, water consumption rates per person per day are distributed as follows:

If there is running water, but without a bath, the water consumption will be 90-120 liters;
By adding a bath and a solid fuel water heater, the water consumption increases and amounts to 140-180 liters;
All the same parameters, but with gas water heater they also increase water consumption by 20-30 liters per day;
A large number of water points in the house (washing, dishwashers, shower cabins, bathtubs, washbasins, toilets, kitchen sinks, etc.) increases water consumption to 190-250 liters.

A cesspool can be built from various materials - baked clay bricks, reinforced concrete rings, monolithic concrete, metal, plastic containers, etc.

Regardless of the material used from which the cesspool is made, the standards for its design regulate the presence of:

durable lid
inspection hatch,
exhaust ventilation pipe to remove gases that are invariably formed during the decomposition of organic residues.

In addition, a sewer pipe from the house must be inserted into the pit, laid with the proper slope.

Rules for constructing cesspools

The depth of the cesspool is selected depending on:

depth of soil freezing in a given area,
groundwater level.

But it is not recommended to build a cesspool below 3 meters from the surface of the earth, since not every special equipment for pumping out wastewater has suitable hoses.

Here we can also say about the location of the cesspool - it should be chosen so that there is free access for the machine pumping out sewage.

The inlet pipe should be laid as high as possible to the ground surface to maximize the volume of wastewater accumulating in the pit.

In this case, you will have to call the sewer truck less often, which will save a lot of money.

The walls and bottom of the cesspool must have high-quality waterproofing. The simplest method of waterproofing is coating with hot bitumen in one or two layers.

The rules for arranging cesspools regulate the installation of a ventilation exhaust pipe to remove the resulting gases. The height of the ventilation pipe must be at least 0.7-1.0 meters above ground level.

If necessary, the cesspool cover is insulated with one of the types of insulation - mineral wool materials or expanded polystyrene.

When using mineral wool, it is necessary to waterproof it in order to protect it from moisture.

Controlling the level of wastewater in the cesspool is carried out:

in a visual way
using a float switch.

Rules for laying sewer pipes from the house to the cesspool

When constructing a cesspool, SNiP standards regulate:

Sewer pipes with a diameter of up to 100 mm should be laid with a slope of 1%; with a pipe diameter of 150 mm, the slope can be 0.8%.
When laying sewer pipes in places where there is heavy traffic or other significant loads, the depth of the pipes must be at least 70 cm, counting from the top of the pipe to the surface of the ground. In other places not subject to loads, the sewer pipe can be laid at a depth of 50 cm, if winter temperatures allow.

According to the standards for constructing pits for collecting sewage, the depth of laying sewer pipes should be below the soil freezing level.

If it is not possible to withstand such a depth, then the pipes are insulated in various ways. These can be either bulk materials in the form of expanded clay, slag or sawdust, or modern ones - mineral wool, polystyrene foam. When insulating sewer pipes, measures are taken to waterproof the insulation, since when wet it loses its ability to retain heat.

If sewer pipes are not laid in a straight line, then the angle of rotation should be greater than 90 degrees to avoid stagnation of solid sewage waste.

The cesspool should not be located at a distance less than 6 meters from the house and 50 m from sources of drinking water.

Cesspool or septic tank?

For better wastewater treatment, it is preferable to make a septic tank, since it involves gradual removal of suspended particles in the first chamber, and subsequent biological treatment in the second chamber using various microorganisms that process organic and inorganic waste.

Discharge of purified water can be carried out directly on the site into a drainage well, which is constructed without a bottom and must be located at a distance of at least 25 m from the wells or wells. In this case, you save money on calling a sewer truck.

Cesspool or septic tank more often it is made of concrete rings - economical sewerage for a dacha is very popular; installing this type of sewerage system in a private house will be the most inexpensive option, but at the same time it will be reliable and durable. The drainage pit can be made of concrete rings or cement mortar.
Pre-purchased reinforced concrete structures are installed in the prepared pit. But before this, the bottom of the future well needs to be concreted. Rings with a diameter of 1.0 m or more are installed on the prepared bottom using specialized equipment.
Having installed all the components of the well, the sewerage system of a private household is supplied to the pit. To do this, a trench is dug at a slope of 15°. A pipe with a diameter of at least 110 mm is laid. Having laid the pipe, a control drain of water is carried out. If everything is functioning normally, the trench is filled with soil.
Installing a sewer system in a private house in this way will bring its advantages to the owner:
1. This option is the cheapest and simplest
2. The service life of this design is quite long.
3. After time, the pit does not silt up and does not decrease in volume.
4. This type of sewage system in private homes does not require additional care.

The disadvantage of this type of sewage system is the need to use the services of a sewer truck. Naturally, if you make the reservoir leaky, then part of the wastewater will be filtered into the soil; this technology can only be used in cases where the groundwater level does not exceed five meters from the surface level.

Price

The cost of a 3-ring cesspool with a diameter of 1.5 meters will be 37,000 rubles.
The cost of supplying sewerage from the house to the cesspool is 800 rubles per linear meter*
*the price includes digging a trench, laying pipes in insulation, and backfilling.

In country houses, in most cases, it is not possible to connect to a centralized sewer system, so owners have to look for options on how to properly equip the sewer system so that it performs its functions efficiently.

One of the simplest and most convenient methods is a cesspool. It is economical compared to autonomous sewers and allows residents country houses enjoy all the achievements of civilization.

Two cesspools

But a cesspool requires appropriate care, in the absence of which residents face very unpleasant problems. This is a fetid odor on the site and in the house, sewer overflow with sewage, flooding of the territory with sewage. In some cases, they decide to bury an old hole and dig a new one nearby. You can go the other way and install two cesspools on your site, which would complement each other’s work.

During operation, the cesspool constantly becomes clogged with solid waste, which accumulates at the bottom. If water goes into the ground, fecal matter remains at the bottom, fat accumulates on the walls. Periodically, the cesspool needs to be cleaned yourself or with the help of professional equipment. The calls for sewer trucks become more frequent every time, the functioning of the cesspool deteriorates, it no longer absorbs liquids so effectively, even if it has only recently been cleaned. The point is that it gets clogged drainage system and soil that loses its carrying capacity over time.

In this case, it is worth thinking about installing a new cesspool. You can bury the old one, or you can use both to increase productivity sewer system.

New cesspool

Pay attention! The construction of a second cesspool will be needed in areas where clay soil or loam predominates. In this way, it is possible to improve the throughput of the soil, as a result of which the cesspool will cope with the processing and absorption of waste faster and more efficiently.

How do two cesspools work?

The principle of operation of two cesspools is quite simple. The advantage of this method is that now pumping and cleaning can be carried out much less frequently, eliminating the possibility of overflowing the cesspool and all the unpleasant consequences of this phenomenon. How do two cesspools on the site work?

Solid and liquid sewage flows through the sewer pipe into the old pit.
Solid waste settles at the bottom of the container, liquids flow through the connecting pipe into the second pit.
In the second cesspool, liquid waste passes through the drainage layer, is cleaned and goes deep into the ground.

During operation, only the first cesspool needs to be cleaned, since all solid waste and fecal matter are retained there. The second tank is used to dispose of only liquid sewage; it becomes clogged very rarely; cleaning may be necessary once every two to three years.

Construction

To build a sewer system that involves using two cesspools for waste processing, you need to know some design features such structures. First of all, you should determine the distance between the two cesspools. It depends on the nature of the soil. On sandy soils this distance should be greater than on clay soils. You should also take into account the location of other utility buildings and a residential building.

Material selection

It is best if both tanks are made of the same material. Most often, reinforced concrete rings are used for this. They are strong, reliable, durable, not susceptible to microorganisms, not subject to deformation, and resistant to chemicals. In addition, concrete rings perfectly strengthen the ground.

Sometimes for the construction of a sewer system with two cesspools they use brickwork, but this option is more expensive and not as reliable.

Subsequence

There is nothing difficult about how to make a second cesspool. If there is already one cesspool, you need to dig a second container. The distance between them should be small so that it is convenient to connect two cesspools. For this you can use plastic or metal pipes. The bottom of the second pit should be covered with a filtration layer. This is crushed stone with sand, construction waste.

Two cesspools on site

Two cesspools are a convenient, economical solution. This design will prevent unpleasant problems from arising, for example, the spread of an unpleasant odor throughout the site or overflowing of the cesspool. The only thing you need to remember is compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards, in particular, at what distance the sewerage system can be located from the well, wells and residential building.

If there is no centralized sewage system near the house, then as a solution to the problem, you can consider installing a cesspool. In any house where there is a hot and cold water supply, the problem of collecting and discharging the sewage system arises.

A cesspool is the simplest option for sewerage in a private or country house, which you can do yourself.

Where should the cesspool be located?

For starters, need to decide on a site, on which a cesspool system will be installed.

directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
it is possible to arrange at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings on the personal territory and to the structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement is based on the fact that if a leaky pit is installed closer without pumping, the foundations of nearby buildings may be destroyed, as well as their flooding.

the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
the depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to take into account the depth of groundwater;
the pit must be located at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

This distance depends on the type of soil on the backyard:

For clay soil - no closer than 20 meters;
For loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
For sandy loam and sandy soil, the cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

DIY cesspool system

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

sealed;
regular without bottom.

The option for arranging a sewer system in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount of wastewater and the material capabilities of the owner of the site:

if the daily amount of wastewater is no more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping. In this type of pit, the wastewater partially goes into the ground, where it is purified by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is the classic rural toilet;
with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which must be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that if there is no bottom in the pit, wastewater passes into the ground and its cleaning occurs by microorganisms, located in the thickness of the earth. But their cleaning capabilities are not limitless.

With large amounts of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with water purification. In this case, the wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and may pass into water-bearing soil layers with further contamination of the drinking well.

If you need to dispose of a large amount of wastewater, you can consider installing a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewer pit

The simplest waste system is done like this:

a pit is dug up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
earth walls are laid or fixed;
a layer of crushed stone is poured down;
A protective ceiling with a lid is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

ease of use;
low cost of design and operation;
simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

the groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
not suitable for draining large quantities of sewage water;
environmentally unsafe;
unscheduled filling due to rainwater is possible;
has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed sewer system is a sealed container into which sewage water is pumped through pipes. As the container fills, sewage water must be pumped out using a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

The installation location does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
environmentally friendly, sewage water does not flow into environment.

Disadvantages of a sealed design:

a smell appears if the storage tank is made in the shape of a well;
monthly costs (you need to periodically call a sewer truck for pumping);
relatively high construction cost.

How to build a drainage hole with your own hands

Let's consider different types and methods for constructing drainage systems that you can do yourself. They are conventionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a flush system for a toilet in a country house at minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

It's fast and budget option construction of a sewer pit. The design is quite simple. A pit is made where old tires are laid one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the pit; if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

if necessary, it can be easily restored;
durability;
speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Flaws:

tires rot over time;
the possibility of a negative impact on the environment due to high load on the structure;
rapid siltation due to insufficient cleaning and pumping, resulting in loss of usable area.

Made from concrete rings

This is another way to quickly build a drain system. Its design is similar to a well. The rings are installed on top of each other. The connections between them, if desired, are sealed using a cement screed.

By its design, a sewer pit made of concrete rings is more of a sealed structure. Because you need to pump it out regularly. Although there is an option to install a septic tank made of concrete rings.

Main advantages:

Convenience of installing a protective cover with a hatch;
durability;
possibility of construction with your own hands;
relatively low cost.

Flaws:

the possibility of an unpleasant odor coming from ventilation pipes;
the need for periodic pumping;
complexity of installation.

Brick drainage pit

This is the most successful and best option, if you need a drainage system for a toilet or bathhouse in a country house.

Advantages:

ease of construction - almost any summer resident can handle laying bricks for a drainage pit;
environmental friendliness - the contents of the drainage structure are periodically pumped out by a sewage disposal machine.

Flaws:

siltation. Siltation can be prevented by constantly pumping out the liquid in the storage tank;
relatively short service life (up to 20 years), as a result of brick destruction in unfavorable conditions of the drainage system;
Occasionally, an unpleasant odor may form. The use of various drugs that accelerate waste decomposition processes and timely pumping of the storage tank can help cope with this.

Construction of a brick cesspool

First you need to decide on the location of the drainage pit, following all the rules and taking into account ease of use.

We choose a design. Taking into account the purpose, a brick drainage pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare a foundation pit for the pit.

With a rectangular design, we tilt the bottom to the side to install the hatch. Place a 20 cm layer of sand at the bottom of the hole and fill it cement mortar. You can take a ready-made reinforced concrete slab of the required dimensions. A cement screed is made on top.

We are laying the walls. The optimal wall thickness is 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern of half a brick. Quarter brick installation is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to treat them with bitumen mastic or make a clay castle on the outside for better sealing. If necessary, we plaster the inner surface.

Installation of hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drainage pit is ready, we install a ceiling with a hatch. The overlap must no less than 50 cm cover the hole around the perimeter.

Concrete slabs are chosen as the ceiling or logs are carefully laid. When arranging a septic tank, you need to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made measuring 70 cm.

On top of the stele ceiling, waterproofing is made of film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil measuring 0.5 m.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of odors from the drainage pit and its freezing, the hatch in the pit is installed double. The top cover is located on the surface of the ground, and the other at the ceiling level. The space that appears in the bow is filled with heat-insulating materials (slag, expanded clay, polystyrene foam, etc.).

Sewage pit from a barrel

This great option arrangement of water drains with your own hands with natural cleaning of cesspool sewers with small amounts of waste (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

We use a 200 liter barrel, preferably made of a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage using a drill or grinder. It is advisable to make holes at a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
We tightly attach a pipe to the bottom of the barrel to connect the drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We treat the connection area of the pipe with mastic;
We wrap the barrel in geotextile and secure it firmly with twine. This is necessary to ensure that the container is protected from soil and other foreign particles entering its structure while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, always with a slope;
we prepare a pit with a depth and size slightly higher than the depth of the barrel;
down the pit we fill gravel or crushed stone with a layer of 20 cm;
We place a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
fill the resulting space between the walls of the pit and the container with gravel or crushed stone;
We connect the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer pit for your bathhouse is ready. You can also make a toilet drain pit with your own hands.

As an option for arranging a home sewer system, you can consider installing a concrete cesspool.

Stages of constructing a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can make a toilet drain pit with your own hands.

To sum it up

There are quite a few options for building a cesspool yourself. Selecting a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material capabilities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or purchasing a ready-made kit for arranging a drainage pit.

In urban areas, no one thinks about installing sewers or cesspools - this is a problem for public utilities. But for residents of dacha cooperatives or country villages, the problem of liquid and solid waste disposal is very acute. To solve it with maximum benefit, you need to know what methods of equipping a cesspool with your own hands exist.

Cesspool for a toilet in the country

The most practical and economical way to make a cesspool for a toilet has always been considered to be digging the earth to the required depth. Some summer residents even now arrange their comfort in this way - they dig a hole, line it with bricks or cinder blocks, and install boards as a top shield. In the same way, the problem of providing comfort is solved - as they say, “cheap and cheerful.” But this method will end up being very problematic:

firstly, such a cesspool is suitable only for those who come to a country house no more than a couple of times a week;
secondly, the maximum amount of water consumed with such a pit should be 1 cubic meter per day;
thirdly, problems with sanitary services may arise.

Owners of old car tires can greatly facilitate their own work - they will not need to line the pit with bricks/cinder blocks, cement and strengthen the walls. You just need to put used car tires in a dug hole, not forgetting to fasten them together with bolts or large metal staples.

The top of the cesspool from old tires should be filled with soil (along its entire circumference), and a hatch with an outlet for ventilation and the possibility of pumping should be placed on the hole.

Types of cesspools and their design

There are two types of cesspools - absorbent and sealed. In the first case, a pit will be equipped in which the accumulating liquid is not pumped out, but is sucked into the ground. Sealed cesspools are septic tanks that need to be pumped out from time to time using special equipment.

How to build an absorbent cesspool

This type of device in question is most often chosen by summer residents and residents of suburban villages - it’s easy to do, and there’s no need to involve specialists in the work. The stages of arranging a cesspool are very simple:

If there is free space in a suburban area, then you can make a cesspool with an overflow - this will allow you to use special equipment to pump out accumulated wastewater much less frequently. And if the soil on the site is sandy or stone-sandy, then the problem of pumping may not arise at all for many years, even with maximum use of the cesspool.

It is easier to make a cesspool from rings (concrete). To do this, you need to follow the following step-by-step process:

A pit is dug (according to the mine principle) with the calculation: the width is 80 cm greater than the diameter of the concrete rings.
At the bottom of the shaft well, you need to make a concrete screed - strictly along the perimeter, leaving free space inside the supposed location of the rings.
The lower ring must be prepared: holes are made every 10 cm around the entire circumference - they will be needed to ensure the flow of liquid if there is a large accumulation of them in the pit.
At the bottom, in the middle space of the supposed location of the concrete rings, you need to pour a “cushion” - it can be made of crushed stone and sand, broken brick, and the height of the “cushion” should not exceed 1 meter. Before backfilling, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing - this will prevent groundwater rings from penetrating into the cesspool.

Only after the above preparatory work has been carried out can concrete rings be lowered into the shaft well. There is space left around them - it is covered with earth and compacted tightly. According to the rules, it is necessary to lay a concrete slab or a concrete cover with the ability to open on top, but in reality it all ends with the application of a plastic hatch.

After installing the concrete rings, it is necessary to ensure the drainage of liquid waste into an equipped cesspool. To do this, dig a ditch leading from the house to a hole, at least 2 meters deep. A sewer pipe is laid into it - it can be cast iron, but it is better to use modern materials: plastic sewer pipes will last much longer, will not suffer from too low temperatures and will withstand even strong mechanical impact from the outside.

Please note important points:

There should be three concrete rings in the cesspool.
Before placing the rings in the prepared hole, you need to wait until the concrete filling of the bottom is completely dry - at least 7 days.
In order for liquid waste to flow better into the finished pit, the sewer pipe must be installed with a slight slope.
The point where the pipe is connected to the pit should be below the freezing level of the soil.

How to make a sealed cesspool

Many people believe that a sealed cesspool is an unnecessary problem in the form of a more complex arrangement process and the need to regularly pump out accumulated liquid waste. But if the site is located in a region with high groundwater, then similar design- the only option for arranging sewerage.

What you need to consider when working with a sealed cesspool:

The walls of the pit must be lined with bricks without leaving gaps, as is the case with an absorbent structure.
It is advisable to plaster the brick-lined walls with cement mortar.
The bottom of the cesspool must be cemented, and before this, waterproofing “procedures” must be carried out. Liquid glass can be used for sealing.
The lower concrete platform needs to be reinforced - you will need to lay a special concrete mesh on the bottom so that it does not “drown” in the solution; it is installed on pegs.
You can completely seal the cesspool using bitumen or cement mortar.
When laying bricks or sealing a hole with bitumen, you need to make a hole for installing/connecting a sewer pipe.

It should be noted that installing a cesspool in a private house is not a quick task. At a minimum, you will need to wait until the concrete pad has completely dried. But the absorbent structure is made much faster, because when sealing it will also be necessary to wait for the mortar to harden for laying bricks.

If you plan to make a cesspool from concrete rings, then you can take advantage of special offers on the market - manufacturers offer to purchase “Lego sets” - concrete rings, the bottom and cover of the pit. In this case, the work time is significantly reduced - there is no need to pour the concrete pad at the bottom of the pit and make a lid yourself.

Homemade septic tanks

A septic tank, or sump tank, is a container consisting of a single sealed body (usually plastic), divided into several sections (for example, as in the figure - A, B, C), an intersection separator, a wastewater supply pipe and a pipe for purified discharge.

Such septic tanks are complex cesspools, but they can not only serve as a vessel for collecting wastewater, but also process dirty liquid into fertilizer for the garden. Homemade septic tanks are a design of 2 or 3 tanks. In the first, only rough purification of wastewater from large debris occurs, but in the second or third, bacteria will work - they process contaminated water into fertilizer.

You can build such a complex structure with your own hands, but this will require considerable financial investments. The essence of the work on arranging a septic tank cesspool:

You need to buy two or three containers made of special plastic - they must be sealed with outlet holes to the outside.
You will need to install overflow pipes between these containers - they must also be available. Moreover, they will need to be installed at an angle.
The first container of the septic tank will contain a small filter - they are sold in stores and have a special marking “for a country septic tank.” This filter will be located at the outlet of the pipe leading to the second container.
In the second compartment of a complex cesspool, bacteria will live that process waste and turn dirty water into practically clean water - at least, it can be used for watering the garden and washing the car.
The third compartment is installed at will - it is needed to collect already purified water, but even without it the septic tank will be fully operational. The only clarification: in this case, you will need to install a drain valve in the second container - you will need to extract purified water somehow!

Experts say that the most practical thing is to invite professionals to install a cesspool. But it can be done with my own hands, which will save significant financial resources. If there is no construction/engineering education, but experience in carrying out any construction work is minimal or completely absent, then it is better not to take risks with self-installation septic tank - specialists will do this with a quality guarantee.