How to deal with aphids on viburnum, many gardeners and gardeners wonder. The plant attracts pests, creates a favorable environment for the development of their larvae, and promotes the spread of insects throughout the land. Protecting viburnum and preventing the spread of aphids is the responsibility of every gardener.
Viburnum Pests
The most common pest of viburnum is. The insect spends its entire life on the bush. Adults lay eggs on the bark near the buds in late August and early September. They will have to spend the winter in this state.
In May, winged individuals appear. These are sexually mature females and males ready for fertilization. After the mating process, the aphid spreads to other trees and lays eggs that are destined to overwinter. In spring the cycle repeats.
Black aphids on viburnum are a real disaster for the planting and surrounding plants. It is necessary to begin the fight early in the spring, even before the first leaves bloom.
On a note!
The pest has the ability to migrate to other plants, but lives exclusively on viburnum. During the entire growing season of the shrub, several generations of insects develop.
Professional products
If the viburnum is attacked by aphids, you can fight it professionally using insecticides. The active components of the product block nerve impulses, causing paralysis and early death. The minimum dose of poison is enough to cause death.
Advantages this method fight – high efficiency, quick results, preservation of properties for up to 20 days. The insecticidal agent destroys adults and larvae of all ages.
The drug is sold as a concentrate. Before use, you should prepare a solution by diluting it in a certain amount of water. Usually 10 l. While working, you must wear rubber gloves and carry out the procedure in the morning and evening in dry, windless weather.
The most effective means:
- Aktellik;
- Karbofos;
- Prestige;
- Fufanon;
- Decis;
- Inta-Vira.
Which drug to use is an individual decision. All of them act immediately, mass death of aphids is observed within a week, and retain their properties for up to 20 days.
Folk recipes
The fight against aphids on viburnum is carried out by everyone by known methods. are very diverse and unique, making it possible to do without chemicals.
- In order to save the viburnum and thoroughly overcome black aphids, it is necessary to cut out the shoots that are located at the roots in late autumn. It is in this place that the aphid lays eggs and leaves them to overwinter. In the spring, when the bush begins to bloom, water hot water soil at the root.
- Natural enemies of insects - lacewing larvae, hoverflies - can destroy aphids.
- You can spray viburnum with a solution of onion peels. Pests cannot stand this smell and try to escape from it as quickly as possible. 200 g of husks are combined with 500 g wood ash, 200 g. Pour in 10 liters of water. Leave to infuse for 5 days. Before use, add and filter the finished product. It is necessary to spray viburnum in May even before the first leaves bloom, or during the flowering period. Repeat the procedure every week until the pests disappear.
- Add spices to the water - cinnamon, red, black pepper, soap solution. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle or spray bottle. The first time you need to spray the viburnum is in the spring, then this should be done every month with a break of 7-14 days.
- You can get rid of aphids with a strong tincture of
Viburnum is a very popular garden crop in our area. This shrub has won the love of gardeners as its beautiful decorative appearance, as well as extremely healthy and tasty fruits that are rich in vitamins and other healthy substances. At the same time, caring for viburnum is quite simple. However, like others garden plants, it is susceptible to attacks by various pests, which must be dealt with in a timely manner.
How to treat viburnum
Pests of viburnum are quite common and one of the most common pests affecting viburnum bushes is the black viburnum aphid. It is a dark brown or brown colored insect. Aphids lay their larvae on viburnum leaves, as a result of which the leaves curl and dry out as the larvae drink all the juice from them. You can fight this pest with the help of special preparations, as well as infusions of pepper, celandine or a solution of laundry soap. Ladybugs are also an excellent help in the fight against aphids.
Viburnum berry in the photo
This article has helped many gardeners stop working hard on their plots and still get a bountiful harvest.
I would never have thought that in order to get best harvest on my own plot throughout my entire “dacha career”, all I need to do is stop toiling away in the garden beds and trust nature. For as long as I can remember, I spent every summer at the dacha. First at my parents' house, and then my husband and I bought our own. From early spring to late autumn, all free time was spent on planting, weeding, tying, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, preserving and trying to preserve the harvest until next year. And so in a circle...
Treating viburnum for pests in spring
Another common pest of viburnum is a small beetle - the viburnum leaf beetle. Their size is only 5-7 mm, but they multiply quite quickly and are able to eat all the leaves of the bush, leaving only large veins. These viburnum pests are quite dangerous, since the plant damaged by them will not bloom next year. You can fight them by spraying with karbofos, if this is done before flowering, with tincture of pepper or chamomile, if spraying is done at a later period.
Viburnum diseases and pests
There are other pests of viburnum that are not so common, but also occur quite often.
Useful properties of viburnum on video
This low tree or shrub is often found in central Russia. We know and love the common viburnum for its unpretentiousness and endurance, for its lush flowering and bright fruits, which are also quite healing. However, other types of this shrub may well grow in our gardens.
The genus and its representatives
Olga Nikitina
Rod Kalina ( Viburnum) belongs to the large honeysuckle family and has about 200 species growing in the forests of Eurasia, North America and North Africa.
Viburnums are represented mainly by deciduous and less often evergreen shrubs or small trees. The leaf arrangement is opposite, the leaves are simple, entire or lobed, entire or serrated. The flowers are white, less often pink, collected in corymbose inflorescences and are of two types: sterile - with large perianths and fertile - small, bisexual. All representatives of the genus are insect-pollinated plants; pollinators are attracted to the plant by the sterile flowers located along the periphery of the inflorescences. The fruits are red or blue-black drupes, edible in most species.
The root system of viburnum is well developed, highly branched, often forming shoots. The plant begins to bear fruit in the third year, and reaches full fruiting in the eighth.
Almost all types of viburnum are highly decorative and combine perfectly in landscape compositions with birches, maples, rowan trees, and many conifers.
Viburnums are generally shade-tolerant, moisture-loving and frost-resistant, undemanding to soil, and can grow on sandy and clay soils. But it is recommended to plant decorative forms on fresh fertile loamy soils.
Representatives of this genus are propagated by seeds (stratification at variable temperatures is necessary to speed up their germination), cuttings, and layering. It is preferable to propagate decorative forms by green cuttings, which, as a rule, take root successfully.
Viburnum is planted in spring or autumn. When planting in groups, the distance between plants should be at least 1.5–2 m. The root collar can be deepened by 3–5 cm. After planting, the soil settles and becomes compacted, so plants need to be planted to a depth at which the root ball is 10– 20 cm above recommended.
During planting, it is necessary to add 10 kg of humus, 0.4 kg of wood ash, 40–50 g of phosphorus, 25–30 g of potassium and nitrogen to the soil, the optimal acidity of the soil is pH 5.5–6.5. After planting, the soil should be compacted.
In the spring, when digging up the soil, nitrogen (40–50 g/m2), phosphorus (30–40 g/m2), and potassium (20–30 g/m2) are used as fertilizers; in autumn - phosphorus (30–40 g/m2) and potassium (15–20 g/m2).
Planted plants require frequent and abundant watering, especially during dry periods.
Viburnums are generally shade-tolerant, moisture-loving and frost-resistant, and are undemanding to soils: they can grow on sandy and clayey soils.
One of the most common species of this genus growing in our forests is k. ordinary , or red (V. opulus), – a shrub or small tree up to 4 m high with 3–5-lobed bare leaves. In spring, the densely leafy crown of this viburnum is covered with numerous white inflorescences, the flowering of which lasts up to 15 days. In autumn, its main decoration is bright red drupes and leaves of almost the same color.
Common viburnum is shade-tolerant, but blooms and bears fruit better in sunny places. Tolerates city conditions well. It has a number of decorative forms that are widely used in landscape design.
In the spring, it can be very damaged by the viburnum leaf beetle, which is able to eat all the leaves, leaving only the veins. To combat this pest, viburnum must be treated with 0.2% chlorophos.
Kalina Sargenta (V. sargenti i) outwardly very similar to the previous species, from which it differs in larger leaves and long flowering (up to 30 days). Grows in Eastern Siberia, on Far East, in Korea, Northern China and Japan. Prefers low-lying habitats with flowing moisture.
Grows in the forests of Central and Southern Europe and the North Caucasus K. Gordovina (V. lantana). This beautiful leafy shrub reaches a height of 5 m. Young shoots are covered with white-tomentose pubescence, the leaves are oval, wrinkled, dark green above, gray-pubescent below. The fruits are dryish, black, inedible drupes. One of the best ornamental shrubs, looks especially good during flowering.
Viburnum triloba (V. trilobum) is native to North America. This is a shrub up to 4 m high, very similar to the common one and can be used in the same cases as it. Especially decorative are the fruits, which acquire a scarlet-red color at the end of July and remain on the shoots for the winter, and for their pleasant taste, Americans call this species “cranberry” viburnum. Perfect for garden plots, its light greenery looks very advantageous against the background of conifers.
Another North American species - k. gear (V. dentatum) grows in the form of a straight, highly branched shrub more than 3 m high. Its rounded shiny leaves are very impressive, which are an excellent background for white small corymbose inflorescences. Unlike other species, it blooms much later - in the second half of June. In the conditions of central Russia there is almost no frost; it is recommended to plant it in well-lit areas with fertile soil.
Widespread on the Kuril Islands, Sakhalin, as well as in Japan and Korea. k. forked (V. furcatum). This low shrub (up to 1.5 m) with branches protruding upward, branched by a fork, is very similar to the crown, but the leaves are larger and turn crimson in autumn. In the conditions of central Russia, its young shoots sometimes freeze, but the plant quickly recovers. The fruits are red at first and black when ripe.
Heat-loving k. folded (V. plicatum) grows naturally in the forests of Japan and China. This spectacular shrub up to 3 m high with original wrinkled leaves and luxurious inflorescences is suitable for growing only in areas with mild winters.
Kalina Karlsa (V. carlesii) – a shrub up to 1.5 m high with a rounded crown, leaves broadly ovate, green, pubescent. This species is naturally distributed in Korea. Valued for its abundant early flowering; flowers up to 1.5 cm in diameter, white-pink with a strong aroma, collected in dense hemispherical inflorescences. Kalina Karlsa is very thermophilic and suitable for use only in the southern regions of Russia. Looks great in solitaire plantings and small groups.
Mediterranean look K. laurel foliage , or evergreen (V. tinus), is a densely branched shrub up to 3 m high. The leaves – leathery, shiny, entire, evergreen – are the decoration of this shrub. Flowering is early and long-lasting, white-pink, fragrant flowers are collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences. The bush lends itself well to cutting and shaping. It has long been used in landscaping parks and squares in southern cities.
Planted plants require frequent and abundant watering, especially during dry periods.
Viburnum 'Boule de Neige' 
Kalina Gordovina 
Viburnum bodnanten 'Dawn' 
Kalina Karls 
Viburnum folded ‘Red Robin’ 
Viburnum triloba ‘Bailey Compactum’
Viburnum diseases
Ella Sokolova
Viburnum is a breed that has an average degree of resistance to infectious diseases. The level of disease damage to viburnum can vary significantly depending on the biological characteristics of their pathogens and environmental conditions. Viburnum is affected infectious diseases of different origins, among which mushrooms predominate.
Leaf diseases
Powdery mildew (the causative agent is a fungus Microsphaera penicillata). In the first half of summer, white cobwebby mycelium (mycelium) appears on both sides of the leaves, which disappears over time, less often remaining in the form of thick turf. The spores formed on the mycelium cause repeated infections of the leaves. At the end of July, fruiting bodies of the pathogen form on the mycelium, looking like scattered small black dots. During the winter, the fungus persists on fallen leaves in the form of fruiting bodies. The spores that ripen in them in the spring produce primary infection of the leaves.
Red-brown spot (the causative agent is a fungus Cercospora opuli). In July, round or oval spots of brown, red-brown or grayish-white color, with a purple-brown border, form on both sides of the leaves. Sporulation of the fungus develops on both sides of the spots and has the appearance of weakly colored, poorly visible tufts.
Gray spot
(the causative agent is a fungus Ascochyta viburni). In the second half of summer, large round or irregularly shaped spots appear on both sides of the leaves, gray with a dark red border on the top, gray-green on the bottom. On the upper side of the spots, sporulation of the pathogen forms in the form of small black dots. With severe development of the disease, individual spots merge, covering most of the leaf surface.
Grayish-brown spotting (caused by the fungus Phyllosticta tineola). In July, ocher-brown or grayish round spots appear on both sides of the leaves. The pathogen sporulates in the form of small black dots on the spots.
Leaf diseases with massive damage lead to a decrease in the decorative value of the shrub. The source of infection is fallen infected leaves, on which the overwintering stages of pathogens develop.
Diseases of trunks and branches
Tubercular necrosis trunks and branches (the causative agent is a fungus Tubercularia vulgaris). The bark dies off more often around the circumference of trunks and branches. The color of the affected bark does not change, so early stage development of the disease is difficult to detect. The main diagnostic sign of necrosis is the sporulation of the pathogen, which forms in the thickness of the dying and dead bark. It looks like round or oval, convex, smooth pink or reddish-pink pads measuring 1–2 mm, protruding from cracks in the bark in rows or randomly. Later, the pads acquire a brick-red color, and their surface becomes uneven. The peripheral part of the wood darkens, which is clearly visible in cross sections of trunks and branches. As a rule, the disease affects shrubs against the background of preliminary weakening caused by various factors.
Cytospore necrosis , or cytosporosis(pathogens are fungi Cytospora leucosperma, C. leucostoma, C. szembellii). In the thickness of the affected bark of trunks and branches, sporulation of pathogens is formed, which looks like small conical tubercles with a dirty white or blackish top. Spores emerge on the surface of the bark in the form of red, reddish or yellowish drops and strands. Spores are spread by rain.
Diatripella necrosis branches (the causative agent is a fungus Diatrypella nigro-angulata). The affected bark dies off in separate areas or along the circumference of the branches. At first it darkens slightly, and later becomes yellowish. In the thickness of the cortex, stroma is formed - fungal tissue in which sporulation of the pathogen develops. Initially, the stroma is noticeable in the form of round-conical tubercles, covered by the epidermis of the cortex. Later they protrude from star-shaped breaks in the epidermis in the form of black woody warts with a diameter of 1 to 5 mm. Numerous stroma are located in large groups and almost completely cover the necrotic areas, the bark of which seems to peel off and acquire a characteristic roughness.
Camarosporium necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Camarosporium lantanae). In the thickness of the bark of the affected branches, sporulation of the fungus is formed, protruding from cracks in the bark in the form of scattered or crowded black tubercles with a wide slit-like hole at the top.
Some necrosis (pathogens are fungi Diplodina viburnicola, Phoma opuli, Phomopsis tinea, Rhabdospora epidermidis) have similar external features. In this case, sporulation of pathogens protrudes from cracks in the bark in the form of small black tubercles located scatteredly or in groups.
Spores of necrosis pathogens are spread by air currents, rainwater, and insects. The gates of infection are cracks, various wounds and lenticels of the bark. Necrosis diseases cause weakening, partial drying out of the crown and a decrease in the decorativeness of the shrub.
To protect viburnum from diseases, it is necessary to carry out measures aimed at preventing and limiting their spread:
- monitoring the condition of plants and the occurrence of diseases;
- use of healthy planting material for planting;
- creating optimal conditions for the growth and development of plants;
- timely pruning of dried branches with their immediate removal and destruction;
- with a high level of spot infestation, spray the foliage during the growing season with fungicides approved for use for the year of treatment.
Viburnum Pests
Tamara Galaseva, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences
In the forest and forest-steppe zones of the European part of Russia, in the Crimea, the Caucasus and Siberia, several species of viburnum (Viburnum) grow, but the common or red viburnum is more common, and the gorodina is grown in gardens, parks and personal plots. Both types of viburnum damage about a dozen species of insects and herbivorous mites that feed on many plant organs: buds, leaves, flowers and shoots. Most viburnum pests are monophagous, i.e. they develop only on viburnums.
Leaf-eating insects
The larvae of butterflies and beetles cause clearly visible damage to plants, eating away parts of leaf blades, buds, buds, flowers and the core of non-lignified shoots.
Significant damage (almost annually) to viburnum leaves is caused by the viburnum leaf beetle ( Pyrrhalta viburni). The beetles are small, from 4.5 to 6.5 mm long, dirty brownish-yellowish in color. The body is ovoid, densely covered with short, adjacent hairs. Young beetles appear on plants in July, first gnawing oval or bean-shaped holes on the leaves, then eating away all the pulp of the leaf, leaving only the veins intact.
Soon after emerging, they mate and the females lay eggs. During this period, beetles often damage flower stalks and set fruits. In August–September, females lay eggs inside dry twigs or in branches with flower stalks in small holes gnawed out by them (1–23 pieces in each). One female can lay about 700 eggs. The eggs overwinter.
The larvae hatch in the first half of May and feed on leaves for 24–48 days, the younger ones skeletonize the leaves, and the older ones gnaw through them. When leaves are completely destroyed, the larvae often gnaw on young apical shoots. Pupation occurs in the soil at a depth of up to 5 cm. One generation develops during the year.
Much less often, the vegetative organs of viburnum can be damaged by other types of leaf-eating insects. In spring and early summer, leaves and buds are damaged by the caterpillars of two species of leaf roller butterflies: Aphelia viburnana and Acleris schalleriana. Caterpillars of the second type first mine the leaves and then eat up the leaf blades, fastening them with a web into large lumps. Caterpillars of the honeysuckle moth, Udea olivalis, also feed in the web-woven leaves.
Buds, flowers and fruit ovaries are destroyed by polyphagous caterpillars of two species of leafrollers (Lobesia botrana And Eupoecilia ambiguella) and fireweed (Phlyctaenia coronata), damaging other types of deciduous trees and shrubs.
Viburnum leaf beetle causes significant damage (almost annually) to viburnum leaves.
Miners and gall formers
One species of insect miners and four species of gall formers are known on viburnums. Most species are highly specialized and damage only viburnum. The larvae of leaf-mining insects make tunnels of various shapes and colors in the inner part of the leaf blade. Thus, small oval mines located between two lateral veins of the leaf are formed by the caterpillar of the Gordovin moth ( Lithocollets – Lithocolletis— l antanella). A swollen light spot appears on the upper side of the leaf.
Gall formers form on various organs New growths in plants in the form of growths, tumors, warts or felts, inside which their larvae develop. Numerous galls in the form of lenticular, slightly convex swellings, noticeable on both sides of the leaf, are formed by the Solms gall midge ( Oligotrophus solmsii). Galls are up to 20 mm long, reddish-brown in color. On the upper side of the leaves there are sometimes reddish capitate galls covered with stiff hairs. In such galls the larvae of the viburnum mite develop ( Eriophyes viburni). Galls on buds are formed by two types of gall midge flies - Contarinia viburnorum And C. lonicerearum. The buds damaged by them swell, the corolla thickens and turns red, and the buds do not open. Miners and gall formers are rare on viburnum; their numbers are small, so they do not cause noticeable harm to plants.
sucking insects
Most species of sucking insects (7 species of coccids) are registered only on the evergreen, or laurel, whose homeland is the Mediterranean countries. This type of viburnum is grown in the gardens of the Crimea and the Caucasus. The black viburnum aphid ( Aphis viburni). This type of aphid is non-migratory and feeds on leaves twisted into clumps, concentrated at the ends of the shoots. Plants damaged by aphids have reduced decorative properties, and they bloom poorly or do not bloom at all.
If there is noticeable damage to the leaves, pest control involves carefully pruning all dried branches, as well as flowering shoots. Pruning is carried out from late autumn to early spring. When a pest is detected in the spring, spray the bushes three times, with an interval of 6–7 days, with one of the insecticides listed in the list of pesticides and agrochemicals approved for use on the territory Russian Federation this year.
Gall formers form new growths on various plant organs in the form of growths, tumors, warts or felts, within which their larvae develop.
Viburnum in landscaping
Olga Nikitina
In Russia, viburnum is one of the most beloved and revered plants. It is unusually beautiful during flowering, when the crown is covered with a white lace of inflorescences. In summer, the bright green of its foliage is an excellent background for various compositions. The autumn attire of viburnum is truly royal: scarlet clusters of fruits and leaves of the same color adorn this shrub for a long time.
Uses
Viburnums are wonderful plants; they can be used in almost all types of plantings. They look great in loose groups on the lawn, in hedges, as edge shrubs.
This plant will cope well with a “solo party”; a variety of decorative forms will look especially impressive in such plantings, among which there are standard and luxuriantly flowering ones. Viburnum will fit perfectly into plantings on the shore of a reservoir, near a gazebo and under the windows of a house, creating coolness and comfort.
Due to its biological and aesthetic properties, this plant goes well with trees such as rowan, spruce, birch, maple, oak, linden, as well as with many beautiful flowering shrubs.
It must be remembered that viburnum tends to root the lower branches, suppressing everything around it, therefore, when creating compositions with perennials and small shrubs, it is not recommended to plant the latter too close to it.
Our heroine has another important quality - she tolerates urban conditions well. We can see it in the design of paths in parks and squares, in group and single plantings, hedges, both trimmed and free-growing. Viburnum looks harmonious on the banks of urban reservoirs, combining well with other moisture-loving plants.
Blooming viburnum is used in floristry; its white inflorescences are perfect for arranging various bouquets, and the sterile form lasts for a very long time when cut.
It must be remembered that viburnum tends to root the lower branches, suppressing everything around it, therefore, when creating compositions with perennials and small shrubs, it is recommended to plant the latter not so close to it.
Types and varieties
Recently, they have become very actively used in garden design. fruit varieties viburnum, from which you can get abundant harvests for 25 years. The varieties bred by the Sibi Horticulture Research Institute are perfect for central Russia ri im. M.A. Lisavenko: ‘Vigorovskaya’, ‘Zarnitsa’, ‘Zholobovskaya’, ‘Red Bunch’, ‘Souzga’, ‘Taiga rubies’, ‘Ulgen’, ‘Shukshinskaya’.
To harvest fruits for the winter, two or three viburnum plants will be enough, and it is advisable to have early and late varieties. Then the early ones can be processed, and the fruits of later varieties can be stored.
The clear leader among viburnums used in landscaping is k. ordinary and its decorative forms:
‘Boule de Neige’– with spherical inflorescences consisting only of sterile flowers, first greenish, then pure white. When they fade, the flowers turn pink, hence another name for this variety – ‘Roseum’. An exclusive plant that is perfect for solitaire plantings in the front area of the garden.
‘Compactum’– up to 1.5 m high, blooms and bears fruit profusely. Used to create group and single plantings in well-lit areas.
'Nanum'– a dwarf shrub up to 1 m high with a dense dense crown, practically does not bloom. Perfect for alpine slides, borders and slope landscaping.
‘Xanthocarpum’– up to 1.5 m high with yellow-orange fruits.
‘Variegatum’- with white-variegated leaves.
No less popular in green building K. Gordovina, which has a wide spreading crown and velvety leaves. It looks very elegant during flowering next to tall coniferous species. More drought-resistant than the previous species, it has a number of decorative forms:
'Aurea'- a spectacular shrub with golden-yellow leaves that fits well into color compositions.
‘Variegatum’- with yellow-spotted leaves, looks advantageous against the background of dark coniferous species.
North American K. Canadian also often found in urban landscaping. This shrub, up to 10 m high, with bright green leaves that turn brownish-red in autumn, is used in group and alley plantings and along the banks of reservoirs.
Far Eastern K. Sargent prefers sunny areas, although it tolerates partial shade well. Like all viburnums, it is beautiful not only during flowering, but also in the fall, when its leaves and fruits turn scarlet. It is successfully used in city parks and squares, as well as in private plots.
Three-lobed viburnum was introduced from North America and differs from the common viburnum in the lighter color of the leaves, which fall earlier. But it has a significant advantage - resistance to leaf-eating pests that plague almost all types of viburnum.
Heat-loving, very attractive with her appearance k. folded. This low, beautifully flowering shrub is used to create group plantings, edging trees and in compositions with herbaceous perennials. Has interesting varieties:
‘Mariesii’- a beautiful flowering shrub, the inflorescences of which consist of large flowers.
'Sterile'– its gorgeous spherical inflorescences have only sterile flowers.
‘Parvifolium’- a dwarf, slow-growing variety with small and sharp leaves. Suitable for creating borders, flower beds and rockeries.
Viburnum goes well with rowan, spruce, birch, maple, oak, and linden.
Healing properties of viburnum
Marina Kulikova, Candidate of Biological Sciences
Until the beginning of the 20th century, doctors prescribed North American bark from abroad Viburnum plumfolia (Viburnum prunifolium). But studies have shown that preparations from the bark k. ordinary (V. opulus) in terms of the strength of pharmacological action they are not only not inferior, but also superior to their foreign analogues. The bark of K. vulgare is included in the State Pharmacopoeia of the Russian Federation.
Koru Viburnums are collected in early spring before the sap begins to flow and before the buds open (in April–May). It is advisable to remove it from the branches, and not from the trunk. In this case, circular cuts are made on the branches at a distance of 30 cm from each other and connected with two longitudinal cuts, after which the bark easily comes off. The collected raw materials are first dried, then dried in a dryer at a temperature of 50–60 ºС and stored in glass jars or canvas bags for no more than three years.
The bark contains tannins, the glycoside viburnin, flavonoids, saponins, resins, organic acids, vitamins C and K. A decoction of the bark is used as a hemostatic, astringent, anti-inflammatory agent, and is used for uterine bleeding, hemorrhoids, and diseases of the gastrointestinal tract. Bark extract (extraction 1:1 in 50% alcohol), produced in pharmaceutical factories, has a similar effect. Wounds are washed with a decoction. The infusion has a weak hypotensive and sedative effect and has long been used in folk medicine with neurasthenia, hysteria, hypertension.
Tannins, viburnin glycoside, flavonoids, saponins, resins, organic acids, vitamins C and K were found in the bark.
Also widely used in folk medicine fruit to. ordinary. They are harvested at full maturity (September–October), in dry weather. Dry under a canopy, in a well-ventilated area, constantly stirring, or in drying cabinets at a temperature of 60–80 ºС. Store raw materials in glass containers or fabric bags for no more than two years.
Viburnum fruits contain sugars, tannins, ascorbic acid, organic acids, anthocyanins, carotene, vitamin P, iron salts, phosphorus, manganese, iodine, copper and other trace elements. Fresh fruits are bitter and can cause vomiting if consumed in excess, but after frost they lose some of the bitterness. Elevated temperatures have the same effect, so jams and preserves made from viburnum fruits are not only rich in vitamins, but also quite tasty. They are used primarily as a means of preventing and treating vitamin deficiencies and hypovitaminosis. Currently, there are many varieties of viburnum with non-bitter or even sweet fruits. Their healing properties depend not only on the presence of vitamins, but also on the content of iridoids, which have a bitter taste. So sweet viburnum is viburnum without iridoids, and therefore less healthy.
The healthfulness of viburnum fruits depends not only on the presence of vitamins, but also on the content of iridoids, which have a bitter taste. So sweet viburnum is less healthy.
Viburnum fruits are used as a diuretic, diaphoretic, and disinfectant. An infusion of fruits increases the strength of heart contractions, improves intestinal function, and increases the outflow of fluids from tissues. An infusion of the fruit is taken orally for furunculosis, eczema and skin rashes. The juice of fresh fruits is applied to the skin in areas affected by acne. Frozen juice removes freckles, age spots, whitens the skin and smoothes out fine wrinkles.
Traditional medicine has not ignored viburnum flowers, which in the form of an infusion is used as a diuretic and diaphoretic for colds, and is also used externally for the treatment of dermatitis, eczema, diathesis, and for gargling with sore throat. Viburnum seeds have a tonic property and can serve as a coffee substitute. Seed oil has a healing antiulcer effect.
Recipes
Bark decoction: pour 20 g of crushed bark into 2 cups of boiling water, boil for 20 minutes. over low heat, strain. Take 1 tbsp. l. 3–4 times a day. For baths – dilute 50 g of decoction in 1 liter of water.
Fruit infusion: 5 tbsp. l. Grind the berries in a mortar, pour in 3 cups of boiling water, leave for 3-4 hours, strain. Take 1-2 glasses 4-5 times a day for 30 minutes. before meals.
Flower infusion: 1 tsp. pour a glass of boiling water over the flowers, leave for 20 minutes, strain. Drink ½ glass 3-4 times a day.
Freshly picked viburnum berries are passed through a meat grinder, then mixed with granulated sugar in proportions 1: 1. The mass is placed in glass jars and stored in the refrigerator.
Like others horticultural crops, viburnum is a target for many pests. Leaf-eating insects can cause considerable damage, destroying the leaves and flowers of the plant.
Kalina is one of the few fruit crops, which can fully develop in the shade. Therefore, in order to reduce the risk of pests, choose shady places for planting.
However, you can get rid of this scourge by carefully monitoring the condition of the viburnum and promptly treating the bushes with special preparations. Read this article on how to deal with viburnum pests.
Black viburnum aphid. Description and signs of damage
Small bugs of a dark color: brown, almost black. Clutches of eggs are hidden in the bark, on the branches of a bush. The larvae that hatch in the spring begin to colonize young, newly blossoming leaves and feed on their juice. As a result, the leaves begin to dry out and curl, and the top of the shoot changes its shape. At the same time, the growth of the bush slows down significantly.
It has been observed that aphid attacks occur three times a year. The season begins in May. During this period, it is recommended to treat viburnum with any broad-spectrum insecticides.
In summer, aphid larvae become adult flying insects that migrate in search of new viburnum bushes. At the end of summer, eggs begin to be laid, from which, after a successful wintering, a new generation of viburnum aphids appears.
Methods for controlling black viburnum aphids
Natural ways to get rid of the pest include cutting out grass near viburnum bushes: this is where females most often hide clutches of eggs, as well as using insects that are useful for summer residents, for which aphids are a natural source of food (hoverflies, ladybugs).
Viburnum aphid very often affects young, just developing branches in the spring. Will help reduce pest numbers without using harmful chemicals- sprinkling. Sprinkling is carried out in the evening, covering the entire crown of the plant. It is also recommended to combat ants that spread aphids.
Natural plant-based preparations will help in the fight against viburnum pests:
These methods are especially important during flowering and fruiting periods. On the eve of viburnum flowering, it should be sprayed with any infusion that has a strong odor. For example, from wormwood, pine needles, various fragrant weeds, dandelions, etc. The procedure is carried out before the buds open and after, or once a week - until the pest is completely destroyed.
- infusion of potato tops (600-700 grams of dry tops per 10 liters of water)
- infusion of celandine (2-3 kg of fresh or 1 kg of dried plants per 10 liters of water)
- infusion of hot pepper (pour 1 kg of pepper into 10 liters of water).
- Also, a noticeable result is obtained by spraying the bushes with a solution of laundry soap (200 grams of soap grated and diluted in 10 liters of water).
- Before the buds bloom, it is recommended to treat the bush with a 60% infusion of nitrafen, at a rate of 200 g. drug per 10 liters of water.
- In early spring - during the growing season, it is recommended to treat the bush with a solution of karbofos or Fufanon (covering the face with a damp gauze bandage). However, spraying should be stopped a month before harvest.
- As mentioned above, the main culprit in the spread of aphids are ants, so without controlling them, it will be quite difficult to control aphids. To destroy ants, they use “Fufanon”, “Aktara”, “Konfidor”, “Rogor”, etc.
- 0.3% solution of Karbofos,
- 0.1% Fufanon solution or 0.15% Rogora solution.
- If the number of the pest begins to increase rapidly, treating the plants with a 0.08% solution of Aktara or Eleksary will help.
- You can also spray twice (with an interval of 7-10 days) with FAS or Intavir (at the rate of 1 tablet per 10 liters of water).
- Mechanical collection of nests along with pests and their subsequent burning will help get rid of caterpillars.
- It is also recommended to treat the viburnum bush with nitrafen paste before the buds open, and with karbofos after they open.
- During the period of mass appearance of insects, it is necessary to apply 0.05% Inta-Vir or Decis (dissolve 1 tablet in 10 liters of water). After two weeks, the procedure is repeated.
- An effective preventative measure to prevent the appearance of these pests is deep digging of the soil in October-November, in order to thus get rid of the sawfly larvae overwintering in it.
- Spraying with karbofos, which is carried out both before and after flowering, also gives good results.
- If we talk about natural means of combating this insect pest, then you can use treatment of viburnum with a mixture of tobacco, onions and garlic or spraying with a decoction of wormwood.
Preparations with chemical composition:
Viburnum leaf beetle Description
The beetle is quite large in size (up to 7 mm), the back is painted brown. A clutch of eggs (about 20 pieces) is hidden in the young shoots of viburnum.
At the end of spring, larvae hatch from yellowish eggs and begin to feed on the tender pulp of the leaves. Often their life activity is so active and aggressive towards the plant that only “skeletons” remain of the leaves.
At the beginning of summer, the larvae of the leaf beetle pest mature for further pupation, and take refuge underground to turn into young beetles. Now, in a new guise, they again head to the viburnum, but this time not to eat the pulp of the leaves, but to gnaw holes in them.
The most favorable conditions for mass reproduction of the leaf beetle are cold, damp and rainy weather. In this case, the number of pests may increase so much that the damage from them will be colossal: instead of leaves, only eaten cuttings and large veins remain on the viburnum.
The beetle is dangerous because after it has dealt with the foliage, it moves on to the berry inflorescences, which threatens the complete destruction of the crop and the plant itself. In this case, the damaged bush stops growing and will not bloom the next year. In mid-summer, it is time for female leaf beetles to lay eggs, which they hide under the bark.
Methods of combating viburnum leaf beetle
A thorough inspection of the tops of the viburnum in the fall is necessary in order to detect the egg-laying of the pest in time and destroy them. A similar inspection should be carried out in early spring. With the appearance of the first leaves, all the larvae will end up on them. During this period, you need to have time to pinch off the leaves and destroy them. After a couple of days, this procedure must be repeated.
In order to prevent the active reproduction of leaf-eating pests of viburnum, it is recommended to treat viburnum bushes with chemicals even before buds open:
For the most part, females lay eggs on the tops of young shoots, making deep tunnels, then lay eggs in them. Therefore, by September these shoots are already drying out. If the bush is young and not too tall and large, then the best way to get rid of egg laying is to remove and then burn all dried shoots.
Such “cleaning” is necessary both in the fall and in the spring, until new larvae appear. If you destroy the eggs, there will be no larvae or adults.
Viburnum leaf roller Description
The larvae of the viburnum leaf roller are caterpillars of a grayish or greenish-olive color, which, immediately after emerging in the spring, begin to actively eat the buds and young leaves of the viburnum.
At the same time, they entangle the leaves with cobwebs, knocking them into a ball. In mid-summer, the caterpillars pupate.
If conditions are favorable, they are able to gnaw out large areas of foliage in a short time, which has a very negative impact on crop yields.
How to deal with viburnum leaf roller
Honeysuckle spiny sawfly Description
This insect harms not only viburnum, but also honeysuckle. Its larvae are olive-colored with a bright pattern on the back, as well as rows of spines. They spend the winter in the soil in order to pupate with the onset of spring and appear on the surface in the form of adult insects in full readiness for reproduction. At the same time, the leaves on the viburnum begin to bloom, where the sawfly hides its clutches of eggs.
The larvae that emerge from them cause damage to the leaves, gnawing them at the edges. If conditions are favorable for insect activity, then viburnum bushes may be left with virtually no leaves.
Methods of combating the honeysuckle spiny sawfly
Viburnum gall midge Description
A peculiarity of this pest is the fact that it causes damage exclusively to viburnum flowers. It spends the winter hidden in cocoons in the upper layers of the soil. During the period when the buds appear, adult insects emerge from the surface and begin to lay eggs inside the buds. The hatched larvae feed on the pulp from the inside, thereby disfiguring the shape of the bud.
Viburnum rarely gets sick, but it happens, especially in certain years, when one or another disease suddenly manifests itself to a particularly severe degree. Fungal, bacterial and other diseases occur, but do not cause strong negative consequences, although they lead to discoloration of leaves, drying of flowers and rotting of fruits.
Frost damage to viburnum stems
A non-infectious bark disease caused by exposure to low temperatures. The bark of the stems cracks, dries out, and the exposed wood tissue dies. The buds on the side shoots bloom in the spring, but the leaves are pale, chlorotic, they quickly turn brown and dry out. In mid-summer, entire shoots or bushes may dry out.
Control measures
In case of severe frost damage, the stems are cut out as they dry out; in case of weak damage, the bark in places of cracking is covered with liquid clay or oil paint (only the cracks themselves).
Ascochyta spot of viburnum
Round or angular gray spots with a dark brown or purple border appear on the leaves; With bottom side leaf spots are olive-gray. By autumn, dark dotted fruiting bodies of the fungus form on the necrotic tissue. The spots crack, dry out, and the middle of the spots falls out.
Control measures
Collecting and removing fallen affected leaves in the fall.
In the spring, during bud break, the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride.
Gray rot
The disease spreads to viburnum in years with cold and rainy summers. Large brown blurry spots first appear on the leaves, which quickly enlarge, dry and crack. A smoky-gray coating of mycelium with spores forms at high humidity, and the spores quickly re-infect neighboring leaves. The affected berries turn brown and dry out, the mycelium penetrates them right through, and a smoky coating of sporulation may form on the surface.
Control measures
Collecting and removing fallen leaves in autumn.
In case of severe gray rot infestation, spray the bushes with Vectra during the growing season.
Fruit rot of viburnum berries
The disease manifests itself in the form of drying of young shoots, flowers, leaves and berries. In summer, the affected berries become covered with small gray dense pads, then turn black and mummify.
Control measures
Removing mummified berries in the fall.
Spraying bushes before and after flowering with Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride.
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