Lay linoleum on a wooden floor. How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor: preliminary preparation

There are many types of flooring, and they can be laid on different substrates. Now we will talk specifically about how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor.

At first glance, it may seem that nothing is simpler, but in fact, such work has its own problems that you need to know about so that the linoleum lays smoothly, beautifully and without defects.

Linoleum is a material that is suitable for all types of rooms, except wet ones. That is why it is extremely popular.

For example, it is not advisable to lay linoleum in a bathroom or shower room, since it can succumb to distortion, and moisture trapped under it will be an excellent environment for the development of mold. And for rooms and offices, this is one of the best and most affordable coatings.

If you want to lay linoleum on a floor made of wooden boards, first of all, you need to think through everything, take measurements and buy materials.

To the resulting floor dimensions, you need to add 10% for leftovers.

This is the most common option. It has excellent elasticity, is quite durable and not very expensive.

Foam-based PVC is also an excellent option. This linoleum will additionally provide sound insulation and warmth.

Some manufacturers produce ready-made linoleum with thermal insulation material. These models are suitable for installation at home; they have no use in the office.

Material without base

In such rooms where it is necessary to create a uniform structure of the floor covering, it is better to use linoleum without a base. It is durable and highly resistant to aggressive external factors.

For a wooden base, it is better to choose linoleum made from natural and environmentally friendly components. This coating is completely anti-allergenic and does not emit harmful toxins.

Relevant for installation in children's rooms, bedrooms and living rooms, as well as in apartments where residents are prone to allergies. The disadvantage of such linoleum is its not so long service life.

As for the thickness of the PVC coating, 4 mm is best suited for laying on a wooden floor. It is durable and will last a long time.

Defects will not be so obvious if the floor suddenly begins to deteriorate over time. Well, when laying it, it’s easier to work with such material - there are much fewer tears.

When choosing linoleum for a room or office in a store, start from the interior design to decide on the pattern. Even if there is a carpet on top, the covering should still fit harmoniously into the interior.

Pay attention to heat and sound insulation qualities. Also ask to unwrap the roll and check for any defects on the material.

When purchasing several rolls, pay attention to the color. Sometimes it happens that at first glance the design is identical, but if you look closely, the color may be slightly different.

Preparatory stage

Linoleum is the most common floor covering. It has many advantages, such as high wear resistance, durability, ease of maintenance, environmental friendliness and affordable price.

Due to its flexibility, the material duplicates all the unevenness of the surface on which it lies. If you lay it on a wooden floor, without preliminary preparation, it will repeat all the defects - cracks, bulges, irregularities and caps from the hardware with which the boards are attached.

Preparing the floor

In order to achieve a perfectly level base, you need to assess its condition and carry out repair and preventive maintenance:

• eliminate creaking floorboards (attach the boards more firmly to the base with self-tapping screws)
• make sure that the boards are not affected by fungus and mold (if something happens, replace them)
• for differences of more than a centimeter, it is necessary to additionally lay plywood on the damaged areas
• carefully fill the gaps between the boards, then sand and apply primer
• if the paint on the floor is cracked, it is better to remove it

When the floor is perfectly flat, you can begin processing it before laying linoleum. First you need to hammer in all the nails so that the heads do not stick out.

Then carry out the initial scraping, and then patch the cracks. To do this, fill all joints with acrylic putty.

It is elastic and when there is a drop temperature regime will help avoid deformation of the wood and surface coating. When the material is completely dry, the entire surface must be thoroughly sanded, all dust removed and primed.

Never install linoleum or other flooring over a damaged wood floor, as this will significantly reduce the life of the new material.

If the old floor is very crooked and the boards do not lie level, it is necessary to make a bedding from. It will provide a perfectly flat surface and ensure water resistance, thereby extending the life of the old floor for many years.

Installation of plywood backing

Tip: If the floor is too damaged to begin with, consider replacing it. Major repairs and elimination of all defects will take more effort, time and investment. And a new floor is a guarantee of quality and protection from rotting.

First, you need to measure the plywood and cut the panels to the required length.

It is best to do this with a circular saw so that the cutting lines are even and smooth.

You need to retreat one centimeter from the wall.

All sheets are attached with self-tapping screws to the beams and the old one.

Hardware must be driven into the wood so that there are no protruding heads left, otherwise they will later appear under the linoleum. When the floor is ready, the joints are puttied, sanded and covered with primer.

Preparation of linoleum

Even before choosing and purchasing linoleum, you should take measurements of the floor, taking into account all the recesses where the material will have to be trimmed. Linoleum is sold in rolls of a certain width.

If there is no suitable size, then you will have to mount and make joints. If you have this situation, keep in mind that the joint should be placed parallel to the long wall in the middle. When calculating the material, take into account the margin for adjusting the pattern in case of a joint.

When you have already purchased the required amount of coverage, be sure to lay it out in the room where it will be spread and leave it for 24 hours. This is necessary so that the elastic linoleum takes shape depending on the temperature and levels out after the roll.

Laying linoleum

When the base and linoleum are ready for installation, you can begin. Some roll coverings require gluing, and for some it is enough to fix the linoleum around the perimeter.

This is especially true in small rooms, where the square area is no more than 10 meters. In the event that docking is provided, glue will be required.

Tools:

• roller for linoleum
• square
• sharp knife
• roulette
• seam roller
• scraper or spatula

Before laying, you need to roll out the roll and cut off the required piece. Calculate so that the material extends about 8 centimeters. At the end, when it straightens and settles, the excess is cut off half a centimeter from the wall.

This gap will later be covered with a plinth. Use a very sharp knife to make the cut, otherwise you may damage the coating.

If you decide to fix it completely with glue, then roll back part of the linoleum and apply glue to the floor. The same operation must be done on the other side of the piece.

If you rarely use your dacha, then you don’t need to spend much on expensive coating models. It is enough to buy one of the cheapest materials and decorate your house. But this does not mean at all that the old, crooked and rotten floor does not need to be restored.

How to properly lay linoleum is shown in the video:

When installing linoleum on a wooden floor, you need to take into account a few tips from experts in order to get the job done efficiently:

• When laying the material, it is better to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, measuring 8-9 mm. As a result, this residue will be hidden by the baseboard. But in the event of a temperature change or increase in humidity, linoleum does not deform or swell.
• The base for linoleum must be perfectly dry. Even a drop of moisture can cause mold to develop and lead to rot.
• If the room is no more than 10 sq. meters, then the material does not need to be glued if it does not have to be joined.
• When laying on a wooden floor or plywood, you can lay a layer of insulation under the linoleum.
• The joints can be processed by cold welding, hot welding, or carefully placed with glue. To make the joint perfectly smooth, the coating must be glued overlapping, and then cut through with a sharp knife to remove excess pieces.
• If the joints are glued with glue, then it must be applied to the edge at least 5 cm wide on both joining pieces. When pressed, the remaining glue will come out. Do not rub them until they are completely dry. Only then carefully cut it with a knife.
• If, during the process of laying it on the glue, an air bubble appears that cannot be corrected, then you need to carefully pierce the linoleum with a needle and release the air.
• Complete drying of the adhesive material on which the linoleum is held occurs after two days. It is not recommended to open windows at this time and create a change in moisture and temperature. Also, do not walk on the floor so that the coating is completely dry and does not deform.
• The baseboard is an integral part of completing the flooring installation. Firstly, it will give a beautiful look to the room, and secondly, it will additionally press the linoleum.

Now you know how to lay linoleum on a wooden plank floor. If you follow all the rules and advice, then everything will work out.

The material will lie flat, without bends or waves, and the joints will be practically invisible. The main thing is to choose the right material and carefully level the floor.

If this is not done, after a while all the errors will be visible through the linoleum, since the material is quite thin and plastic. Do not forget that wood is prone to rotting. Therefore, make sure that no moisture gets between the materials, otherwise such a floor will not last long.

In order for the coating to serve you faithfully for many years and to be safe to use, you must know something about it. So I'll torture you a little with some much-needed theory.

Types of linoleum by material of manufacture

1. Natural linoleum, at most famous brand it is often called "marmoleum". It is made only from natural raw materials: linseed oil, ground lime, natural pigments, wood flour, etc. The basis of the coating is jute sackcloth. The most environmentally friendly material, has antibacterial, hypoallergenic and antistatic properties.

Marmoleum is quite expensive, but the high price is justified by its environmental characteristics.
This flooring is optimal for children's rooms and healthcare facilities.

1. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) covering. It is produced on a fabric, foamed polymer, sound- and heat-insulating felt base or without it. Most often it has a top protective layer of polymer film. This material is now the most widespread.
2. Glypthal material Made from fabric-based alkyd resin. Has high heat and noise insulation characteristics.
3. Coloxyl analogue made using a baseless method from nitrocellulose. The material is resistant to moisture and has excellent elasticity, but is not fireproof enough.
4. Rubber linoleum, after its most famous brand, is often called “Relin”. The front layer of the coating consists of synthetic rubber, colored with pigments. The basis of the material is rubber processing products bound with bitumen. The coating has good moisture resistance and elasticity.

Division of coating according to wear resistance

According to the degree of wear resistance, the material is divided into the following types:

1. Household linoleum. It is used in living rooms and rooms with low traffic, because... has low wear resistance.
2. Semi-commercial analogue has good wear resistance and is intended for medium-traffic areas.
3. Commercial coverage has the highest wear resistance and is intended for areas with high traffic.

About the advantages and disadvantages of the material

I present the pros and cons of linoleum as I understand them myself.

First, about the advantages:

1. The material has good moisture resistance, good elasticity, and you can choose a variety with high wear resistance.
2. The coating is easy to care for.
3. Wide selection of patterns, colors, roll sizes and their performance characteristics.
4. Relatively low cost.
5. I won’t be original - it’s really not difficult to do on your own.

Disadvantages of linoleum:

1. It is highly undesirable to lay the coating near sources of open fire.
2. The material is afraid of direct rays of the sun and exposure to low temperatures.
3. Does not tolerate the effects of aggressive chemicals.

I want to warn you about something that biased specialists and sales consultants often keep silent about.
The coating, especially not of very good quality, tends to dry out or shrink over time.
It is because of this that the joints of the panels can open up or cracks may appear on them.

Coating care

The photo shows a linoleum care product.

1. I strongly advise you to wash linoleum only with special mild cleaning compounds: Mr. Muscle, Wa-Lin, Mr. Proper, Glorix, Econa-Konzentrat, Mellerud, Forbo-891 and 888.
2. The coating does not tolerate active chemical agents. From their influence it becomes dull and cracks.
3. To prevent the floor covering from being torn or scratched, put soft caps on the legs of household equipment and furniture.
4. I strongly advise you to rub the coating with a special polish or mastic once every 6 months. They return the finish to its original gloss and appearance, give it antistatic qualities and increase service life.

1. InterChem-301, 305 and 306 products give linoleum a deep glossy shine.
2. The composition of InterChem-302 makes the coating semi-matte.
3. InterChem-303 will give the cladding a matte finish and a muted satin shine.

Point 2: proper preparation of the base

Linoleum is a thin and elastic material. Therefore, any, even small, unevenness will spoil the appearance of the coating and may shorten its service life.

The base on which you will lay linoleum with your own hands must, in any case, be smooth and strong enough.

Preparing a concrete base for linoleum

1. Preparing the concrete base includes creating a uniform, flat surface without traces of old cladding, damage or cracks.
2. I warn you right away: height differences on the floor should not be more than 1 mm for each meter of its surface, the base should not have potholes and protrusions larger than 2 mm. If these conditions are violated, level the floor using a screed.
3. Cover all cracks, crevices, and joints between slabs with epoxy, putty or cement-sand mortar with the addition of drying oil.

I can’t help but say this. A concrete base is not particularly suitable for laying ordinary linoleum.
The floors are cold.
To avoid this problem, select a coating with a backing made of heat-insulating material.

But for living rooms, this measure is often not enough.

Then I advise you to first cover the concrete floors with chipboard or plywood, and only then cover them with linoleum:

1. Before laying the sheets, lay waterproofing on the concrete. Use polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns.
2. Spread the panels overlapping each other (15 cm) and place them on the walls by 5 cm. Insulate the joints with tape.
3. You can lay polyethylene foam on top of the waterproofing as a soundproofing layer.
4. Lay the sheets with small expansion joints between each other (3-4 mm).

How to prepare a wooden base

Old wooden floors should be restored as necessary:

1. Remove paint, especially if it has been applied several times over many repairs, using a spatula and a hair dryer.
2. Level all the joints between the floorboards and the entire surface of the base using a scraper or sander in order to eliminate all irregularities and differences larger than 1 mm.
   Before laying linoleum on an uneven floor, you can continue preparing it in two ways. Namely: putting putty on the joints between boards or laying chipboard or plywood.
3. The first method is more difficult and time-consuming. It is advisable when the flooring is new and there is no need for special sealing of the seams, or when the old floorboards are in excellent condition (not deformed or creaky).

1. I think the second method is better. As a result, you will get a more homogeneous and uniform base, which is more suitable for linoleum.

I want to warn you that in the latter case there is no need to apply waterproofing.
Wood must be ventilated during operation or have the ability to remove excess moisture.
Waterproofing will stop these conditions, which will contribute to the formation of mold and rot.

Make sure that after preparing the base there are no creaking boards left. For this purpose, additionally screw the floorboards to the joists.

Before laying linoleum on fiberboard, glue polyethylene foam damper tape around the perimeter of the walls of the room to neutralize the effects of seasonal expansion and contraction of the coating. Also, leave 3 mm seams between the sheets.

Point 3: acquisition and preparation of coating

Before purchasing material, accurately calculate the required quantity. I warn you that the standard width of rolls can be from 1 to 5 m, in increments of 0.5 m.

What you need to know about calculating linoleum

The ideal option is when the width of the covering is enough to cover the width of the room. Then there is no need to join the panels. This solidity gives the cladding greater reliability, simplifies its installation, and improves its appearance.

Measure all distances in the room to the maximum. In this case, consider the width of the room as the maximum gap between the long walls and take into account all the recesses along their entire length.

Let me give you an example. On the first wall there is a niche for mounting a heating battery, on the second wall there is a recess near the door, which is formed by a column and an adjacent wall. Here the desired width should be equal to the gap between the walls and plus the depth of both niches. In addition, add a minimum margin of 5 cm.

The reserve must be added both along the length and width of the panel.
This is due to the potential unevenness of the walls.
Between them there is often a run-up from different ends, sometimes several centimeters.
It is better to trim off excess material than to deliver thin strips later.
By the way, they can quickly move away from the base.

When the room is too large and it is not possible to lay linoleum with one panel, select the width of the roll so that the joint of the strips passes through the middle of the room. If the material has a joined pattern, then the length of at least one of the cuts should have a margin equal to the size of the pattern, so that you can create a complete image on the seam.

Preparing the finish

1. When you buy linoleum, place the rolls upright in the room where the material will be laid and leave for one day. This is necessary for the coating to adapt to room temperature.

During the warm season, the material may shrink somewhat and change size during adaptation.
This is one of the reasons why it must be purchased with a reserve.
IN winter season During the day, the material acquires the necessary elasticity lost due to low temperature.

1. Next, lay the covering on the floor and carefully straighten out the folds. This procedure is necessary to ensure that the material is leveled. This will take about two days.
2. The better the coating straightens, the denser it will lie on the base. I strongly advise you not to speed up this process in any way. This can lead to deformation and swelling of the coating.

Cutting the material

You can cut the material using a construction knife or large, sharp scissors and a metal ruler:

1. Place the panel on the base so that the pattern runs parallel to the walls and does not move in any direction. You can use a tape measure for this or determine it visually, with a good eye. Personally, when there is an uneven gap between the walls, I prefer to trust visual perception rather than try to align the pattern on one wall.
2. Next, trim off any excess fabric. Start with large unnecessary scraps. Do not cut the material for finishing right away. Cut it off with a margin of a couple of centimeters.

I want to tell you a little secret of successful work.
Fold the panel along all the bends and corners and place it in the corner.
Mark it on back side area of ​​contact between the material and the wall.
Next, make a cut from the edge to this point.
This way, you can lay the panel more tightly overlapping the walls.

1. Now you can make finishing cuts. At the same time, do not forget about the deformation gap between the material and the wall.

If you need to trim the coating when there are several panels, my instructions will be as follows:

1. Lay the first canvas and secure its edge closest to the middle of the room with double-sided tape.
2. Next, cut the linoleum along the wall, leaving a margin.
3. Then attach the second canvas and match the pattern. Having aligned the pattern, secure this section with tape and cut along the wall with a margin.
4. Then cut off the reserves and form the perimeter of the coating, taking into account expansion joints.

Point 4: features of laying linoleum

You can fix the coating to the base using several methods. To make it easier for you to assimilate the information, I have compiled it into a table.

Types of linoleum glue

Successful installation of linoleum largely depends on the right choice glue. Therefore, I will tell you in more detail about its varieties.

All produced special adhesives for linoleum are divided into two types: dispersion and reaction compositions:

1. Dispersion materials are produced on the basis of water. They contain cellulose-glycolic acid or acrylic and special additives (latex, chalk). They have a slight odor, are non-toxic, and are therefore safe for use in living rooms.
2. Reaction analogues are two-component and consist of epoxy resins and polyurethane polymer. As a result, the reaction when mixing them creates a sticky effect. Bonding a coating with such a fixative is often called “cold welding.”

Dispersion adhesives are divided into three types.

1. Bustilate is a universal material, the components of which are latex, chalk, and carboxymethylcellulose. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that this composition is optimal for gluing panels on a fleecy (for example, felt) basis.
2. The basis of acrylate analogs is thermoplastic resins. The composition has a high degree of viscosity. It is optimal for installing coatings without a base, as well as on a base made of jute, fiber, or double synthetics in rooms with medium and high traffic. Has increased adhesion to highly absorbent subfloors.
3. Gumilax consists of a mixture of rubber and latex. The glue is optimal for natural linoleum. It is also suitable for artificial coverings on a felt or fabric basis.

The main disadvantage of dispersion compositions is the loss of quality at high humidity and low temperature.
After freezing, the material will no longer restore its properties - it will lose elasticity and begin to crumble.
Exposure to high humidity causes linoleum to peel off.

Now, regarding reaction adhesives. They have excellent moisture resistance, plasticity, and prevent the coating from shrinking, because they contain no water. Such compositions are recommended for installation of semi-commercial and commercial linoleum in rooms with high traffic.

The disadvantages of reaction adhesives are below.

1. Fire and explosion hazard.
2. A sharp, distinct chemical smell.
3. It is not advisable to use the material in living rooms.

I will tell you three most important criteria for choosing linoleum glue.

1. If the base of the floor absorbs moisture well (concrete, cement screed, wooden floors), then a water-dispersive composition would be the best choice. If you are going to use marble, tiles or other non-absorbent substrate, use a reaction analogue.
2. In small public and residential premises, the covering in most cases is laid with one panel and glued “solidly”. A dispersion composition that does not contain solvents is better suited for this.
3. In large retail, office, and industrial premises, it is best to lay linoleum with local fixation (in a checkerboard pattern) with two-component glue and welding the joints using hot or cold welding.
4. Choose glue also based on the type of linoleum and its technical properties. To do this, carefully read the manufacturers' instructions on the packaging of the composition.

I, in turn, have compiled a table for you in which I have summarized the most popular brands of glue.

Scheme for installing the coating on glue.

Now about how to lay linoleum yourself. So, you have already laid and cut the coating, as I wrote in the previous parts of the article.

If the room is small and the cladding is laid on its floor in one panel, you don’t have to fasten it. It will be quite enough to fix the linoleum around the perimeter of the walls with skirting boards, and in the door opening with a special threshold.

If the room is large and you have covered it with several panels or the traffic in it will be high, the linoleum will have to be fixed. As I already wrote, the canvases can be glued around the perimeter using double-sided tape or over their entire area using an adhesive composition.

I will describe for you the correct installation sequence.

1. The base must be well prepared: level, clean, dry and smooth.
2. If the surface is highly absorbent, I recommend priming it.
3. Apply glue in sections. Bend down half of the first panel (make sure that the second half does not move) and coat the exposed base with glue.
4. Use a wide notched trowel to apply the fixative.
5. Lay the covering back when the glue has dried a little. The drying period depends on the type of composition and is indicated by the manufacturer on its packaging.
6. After waiting the allotted time, gradually and carefully put the half of the panel back.

1. Roll the glued part of the coating with a heavy roller. Do this from the middle of the canvas to its edges. This will force the remaining air out from under it and ensure a more secure fit to the base.
2. Repeat all steps with the second half of the panel.
3. Next, repeat your steps, gluing the entire coverage area.
4. From the instructions on the glue packaging you can find out how long it will take for it to dry completely. When this happens, you will be able to move around the surface.

When laying several panels of linoleum, you should additionally glue the joints between them.

1. This can be done using colorless silicone-based glue marked “for linoleum”.
2. Place masking tape on both sides of the joint. Next, fill the seam with silicone and smooth it out, pressing it in with a rubber spatula.

Close the joint of the panels in the doorway with a threshold.

Now all that’s left to think about is how to lay the baseboard on the linoleum and door sills. Secure the baseboards around the perimeter of the room. I want to warn you that they should be fastened with self-tapping screws to the walls, not the floor.

Give preference to plastic skirting boards if the walls are not completely smooth. They will exactly repeat the shape of the base and there will be no gaps between them and the wall. Another advantage over their wooden counterparts is that you can hide electrical wiring, television, telephone, and Internet cables in the cable channel of plastic strips.

Screw the thresholds along the edges of the linoleum that overlap the door opening. Do this using self-tapping screws and plastic dowels.


Conclusion

As you can see, although laying linoleum is not the most difficult, there are many nuances. If you follow all the recommendations that I voiced in this article, then everything will work out right for you. The video in this article can also help you.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments and I will answer them. I say goodbye and good luck to you in your endeavors.

Clients of construction stores are convinced that elastic coatings are the easiest and most inexpensive way to update the flooring in an apartment or country house. However, like any other flooring product, linoleum products require careful preparation of the mineral base. But the manufacturers’ instructions say practically nothing about working with a wooden base.

Elastic finishing materials, intended for installation in a private home, apartment, office and other facilities, are made from natural and polymer components. The first variety is known as marmoleum, the second is PVC or vinyl coating.

According to the manufacturers' instructions, it is best to lay roll and modular linoleum using the adhesive method. It is also allowed to install products using double-sided adhesive tape, but this method is not considered very reliable and is recommended for small areas.

Until now, in the vastness of our country, you can find craftsmen who use roofing nails, various mastics, sealants, and the like to fix elastic coatings. If you want your linoleum to serve for at least 7-10 years without loss of functionality and aesthetics, manufacturers strongly recommend that you abandon such exotic fixing methods and strictly follow the instructions. That is, lay the coating using contact adhesive, which is applied over the entire area of ​​the prepared base.

Adhesive for laying linoleum.

When choosing a suitable adhesive mixture, several parameters need to be taken into account:

Coverage type

Solvent-based or polymer reaction adhesive compositions are not suitable for marmoleum, as they damage the fabric (melt or burn). Almost any contact adhesive can be used under PVC linoleum, but the characteristics of the subfloor are very important, as discussed below.

Type of base

The ideal base for laying linoleum without any problems is considered to be a high-quality cement-sand, anhydrite, polymer-cement screed, concrete floor or reinforced concrete slab. That is, virtually any mineral base that meets the requirements of SP 29.13330.2011/SNiP 2.03.13-88 “Floors” and SP 71.13330.2011/SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings”.

In addition, manufacturers allow you to lay linoleum with your own hands on prefabricated screeds made of GVL, DSP, SML, as well as wood-composite materials with increased level moisture resistance (chipboard, plywood or MDF). That is, any sheet products with a low coefficient of residual moisture (no more than 8%) and water absorption. This guarantees minimal changes in the linear dimensions of the base during temperature and humidity changes, which means the integrity of the linoleum coating during the service life declared by the manufacturer.

The base is made of plywood under linoleum.

Availability of floor heating system

Not every mixture, after drying, retains sufficient elasticity to withstand constant temperature fluctuations. Therefore, the instructions for the glue must indicate not only the optimal operating temperature of the base floor, but also compatibility with “warm floors”.

We did not list the boardwalk above. According to the instructions for marmoleum from Forbo Flooring systems, as well as PVC coating from Tarkett, a wooden base (parquet, board) is not recommended as a rough base for linoleum due to:

• high level of residual humidity;
• susceptibility to various deformations;
• constant fluctuations in linear dimensions as a result of the slightest changes in temperature or humidity in the room.

According to technologists, laying linoleum on a wooden floor means risking both the base and the finishing coating. Therefore, it is better to lay moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard, OSB on a wooden base, or fill the surface yourself with a good self-leveling mixture (Bostik Roxol Fiber, Forbo-Erfurt 975, etc.).

There is an exception to every rule. And in types of bases for elastic coatings as well. It is allowed to lay linoleum on a wooden floor only if it is old parquet. It can already be called stabilized, that is, the material is:

• not afraid of climate change,
• practically does not absorb water,
• has already gone through all sorts of deformations (warping, bending, shrinkage, etc.).

Old parquet.

Old parquet only needs to level the surface, fix weakened or falling out elements, strengthen it and ensure uniform absorption using special primers.

Required tools and materials

Tools and materials:

1. A suitable type of primer (Forbo-Erfurt 044, Bostik Unidur, Homakoll 05C Prof).
2. Acrylic sealants for sealing seams and leveling small defects. Can be replaced with a mixture of PVA, water and sawdust, or wood putty;
3. Hardware or glue for fixing the falling strips;
4. An adhesive composition suitable for working on a wooden base (Homakoll 128 Prof, UZIN KE 2000 S, Bostik KS 330);
5. Quick-drying cement or gypsum mixtures for local repairs;
6. A hand scraper or grinder with abrasive attachments to remove residual varnish or paint;
7. Construction vacuum cleaner and hygrometer;
8. Knife for cutting linoleum;
9. Level;
10. Steel slats;
11. Tape measures and markers;
12. Notched trowel for applying adhesive composition;
13. A lapping board or weight roller to smooth the linoleum to the base floor;
14. Double-sided tape for temporary fixation of the canvas to the base;
15. and masking tape;
16. Decorative skirting boards and thresholds.

Advice! To seal cracks and eliminate other minor damage, use only compounds based on acrylate copolymer. Silicone pastes are not suitable because no primer will “sit” on them.

The flooring of both marmoleum and PVC coating is produced using an almost identical algorithm. But since vinyl products are most often used in residential construction, the installation of synthetic products will be discussed below.

Step by step instructions

It is not for nothing that wood is considered one of the most capricious materials, especially when used as a base. Therefore, your work will require maximum effort, skill and the purchase of expensive, specific products.

Manufacturers especially note that laying linoleum on a wooden floor is possible under the following climatic conditions:

Do not forget to give the linoleum time to acclimatize the coating:

• For PVC - spread out - at least 24 hours, in winter - up to 3 days;
• For marmoleum – 1-3 days rolled up, and the roll should be installed strictly vertically.

We lay linoleum on a wooden floor in 4 stages:

Preparing the base

The rough surface must be cleared of anything that will interfere with the interaction of the glue, base and finishing material. That is, paint residues, dirt, stains of grease, oil, etc.

Particular attention is paid to the surface of the base. So check:

Don't forget to turn off the floor heating 2-4 days before installation. After sealing all defects, the surface must be primed 1-2 times and allowed to dry for 12-36 hours.

Adjusting the material to the size of the room

The linoleum needs to be spread out, pushed tightly and aligned with the flattest wall. You can secure it around the perimeter with double-sided tape. If the vertical enclosing structures are uneven, then place the covering on the wall, press it to the base with a metal strip and gradually cut off all excess with a knife, taking into account a compensation gap of 5-10 mm.

Carefully trim at internal and external corners. That is, press the flooring material to the point where the wall and floor meet, make a cross-shaped cut of 3-5 mm, unscrew the material and carefully remove the excess.

If linoleum is laid in 2 or more strips, then to obtain an even joint you can make a small overlap, about 3-5 cm. Next, press with a strip or ruler and cut through both layers with a knife. A so-called tightly cut seam is formed, which is subsequently very easily joined with “cold welding” glue.

Gluing linoleum

The spread floor material must be folded back halfway and any unnecessary tape removed. Mix the glue thoroughly, apply it to the base and spread it evenly over the floor with a spatula.

After a short technological break (10-30 minutes), lay the linoleum back and smooth it with a roller or lapping board. You need to do the same with the rest of the canvas.

After 36-48 hours, the glue will dry and you can process the seams in accordance with the instructions on the “cold welding” box. The last step is to attach the baseboards to the wall and the thresholds to the floor.

In conclusion, let us remind you once again that a wooden floor is not the best base for PVC or natural linoleum. Don't skimp, buy moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard or self-leveling mixture to create the correct base. All your investments will definitely pay off with a long period of serviceable, absolutely problem-free coating service.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

From the author: Hello, dear reader. If you are renovating and have wood floors, then you have come to the right place. Some homeowners naively believe that when replacing flooring, it is enough to simply dismantle the old one and lay down a new one. Ideally, this is the case. But in most cases, floors in old apartments require major repairs. If you lay a new, expensive and high-quality coating on such a base, it will soon have to be replaced again. Today you will learn how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor.

How to prepare the base for installation

For laying any covering, only a flat and rigid subfloor is suitable. It can be a concrete screed, or. In this case, differences should not exceed 2 mm per 2 m². OSB boards must fit tightly together. Forget about such options as laying on Soviet tiles, on old floorboards, on other linoleum, etc.

Let's look at the process of capital renovation in an apartment. In general, a wooden base is durable and reliable. But the tree is very sensitive to increased humidity. When humidity is high, it swells; when humidity is low, it shrinks.

Because of this, cracks form in the floorboards over time, and therefore the coating becomes deformed. Over time, old boards can even rot. Therefore, before laying linoleum flooring made of wood, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate defects in it.

Walk with a hammer over all areas of the floor to identify rotten boards. If the sound is dull, there is a 99% chance that the board is rotten. Although, at first glance, this may not be noticeable. If you notice rusty nail heads, this also indicates that not everything is in order with the boards. The top floorboards are easy to replace. But you will have to tinker with the subfloor boards. The same can be said about replacing lags.

If the action takes place in a wooden house, this complicates the situation somewhat. Among other things, it is necessary to check the beams and embedded crowns. At the same time, you need to check from all sides, even from under the floor. To identify rot in wood, you will need good lighting, as well as an awl with a long point.

To look for areas affected by rot, poke the joist several times in different areas. If you come across a rotten one, it is necessary to replace it, even if it looks intact.

In apartments with wooden floors the situation is different. In private wooden houses The lags are laid, and in multi-apartment buildings - on a concrete base. In some cases, it is enough to replace damaged floorboards, and in others, to replace the floor. If the base needs to be repaired, you can proceed as follows:

• old paint and varnish must be removed using a sanding machine;
• remove rotten floorboards and replace them with new ones treated with an antiseptic;
• check the reliability of fixing the floorboards to the joists. Usually they are fixed with nails, but for reliability it is worth securing them with self-tapping screws;
• cover small irregularities with wood putty and sand these places with sandpaper;
• apply varnishes/paints;
• lay linoleum.

If more than half of the floorboards have become unusable, then simple replacement is not enough. The entire floor needs to be repaired. Check the concrete base. If you find large cracks in it, it is worth pouring a new screed. You can do it completely differently - perform reinforcement and then pour the concrete floor. But now we are talking about how to lay linoleum on a wooden base.

Therefore, after you fill the rough screed, lay the hydro- and thermal insulation, then install the floor boards. Modern technologies allow you to connect them so that the joint is expressed as little as possible, and the adhesion of the boards is as reliable as possible. This is achieved thanks to the tongue.

For even more reliable adhesion, the joint can even be glued. On this preparatory work can be considered completed.

Choice of coverage

Before I tell you how to lay linoleum, I will say a few words about the choice of material. Any type of coating can be laid on a wooden base. The felt base provides the material with additional heat and sound insulation. At the same time, the floor will become somewhat softer, which is quite logical.

As a rule, linoleum on a felt base is thicker than on a foam base, but thickness is not a quality criterion; it serves only to hide minor defects in the floor.

When choosing linoleum, mainly pay attention to the thickness of the protective layer - it is this that determines the wear resistance of the floor covering, in particular, resistance to mechanical damage. Based on wear resistance, commercial, semi-commercial and household linoleum are distinguished. Now I will briefly tell you how they differ:

• domestic. The protective layer is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. At the same time, 0.3 mm is characterized as “household reinforced”. Least durable material. Suitable for installation in rooms with low traffic, for example, in a bedroom, on a balcony/loggia or in a closet. 0.3 mm is acceptable for use in the living room;
• semi-commercial. Protective layer from 0.4 to 0.6 mm. Has average wear resistance. Suitable for installation in any living room, except the bathroom, where the best solution there will still be tiles;
• commercial. Protective layer from 0.7 mm and above. Environmental standards do not allow its use in residential premises.

The cost of flooring increases proportionally with the thickness of the protective layer. If linoleum has a specific smell, this means that it is of low quality. Even with a protective layer of more than 0.4 mm, the quality of workmanship may not meet generally accepted standards. In addition, the “smelling” coating releases toxins, which means it does not meet environmental standards.

Floor coverings produced by Tarkett and its subsidiary Sinteros, as a rule, meet quality standards accepted in Europe. This is not an advertisement for the company. Tarkett and Sinteros have really proven themselves in Russia and the CIS countries. Any competent flooring specialist will tell you this.

Laying process

Now we have come to the heart of the matter. Before installation, allow the material to “get used” to the microclimate of the room. To do this, leave it there for about a day. In this case, the humidity in the room should not be higher than 70%, and the temperature should not be lower than 18°C. Now let's do the installation:

• cut the material with a shoemaker's or stationery knife. Remember that linoleum should not be adjacent to the wall. Leave a delatation gap. As a rule, it is ±1.5 cm. This gap will prevent swelling and deformation of the material, because over time any linoleum increases its area;
• joining the drawing. If you need to combine two different pieces in one room, it is important to join the pattern correctly. If you buy flooring from different rolls, you need to make sure that they are from the same batch, because the shades may differ;
• To fasten two pieces, use cold welding technology. Essentially, this is gluing the bases of the material with a special glue. Cold welding practically eliminates the seam and makes it visually invisible;
• installation of skirting boards;
• where linoleum meets another floor covering (laminate/carpet/tile), use a special aluminum printed threshold.

To glue or not to glue?

This is one of the most frequently asked questions. Some argue that gluing is mandatory (especially sellers in hardware stores who need to sell more). Others believe that gluing can be done without, especially if purchasing glue is beyond the budget. What should I do?