Decorative shrubs for a summer residence, photos and names of which will be presented in this article, are often precisely those elements that harmonize the overall picture and emphasize the necessary nuances of the site so that it looks attractive, bright and harmonious. They are like strokes on a canvas that will help to correctly “dilute” the flowerbeds with the necessary details and place accents on certain places. I am sure that every summer resident, gardener, owner of a personal plot wants to do everything correctly and carefully so that vegetables, fruit trees, beds with herbs are all in their places.
Depending on the size of your plot, imagination and general preferences, ornamental shrubs can be a background for other plantings, an element of garden compositions, appear in the form of hedges, or act as the main nuance to which everyone’s attention will be focused.
In this article I would like to talk about the most popular shrubs, most often planted in our region, and, of course, the most beautiful. It is unrealistic to cover the entire spectrum of these representatives of this plant kingdom, but it is worth paying our attention to the main flowering ones, as well as decorative foliage ones.
How to beautifully plant ornamental shrubs: basic placement criteria
The very first thing is to choose a plant that will feel comfortable in the climatic conditions of your region. You need to choose a specific variety based on this factor. The second nuance is its location.
If you purchase a sun-loving representative, then you need to plant it in a sunny place, where there will be a lot of light and there will not be even a hint of shadow. But shade-loving ones, on the contrary, should be placed in shaded areas, or even in the shade of buildings or large trees. This is important, since the wrong choice of location can affect not only the brightness of the colors of the foliage or the splendor of flowers on the shrub, but also its viability.
The overall picture of the garden should also be taken into account when choosing a particular plant. In a small area, tall and lush specimens will look out of place. But, for example, flowering frost-resistant, low beautiful bushes are ideal, and they will delight you with their appearance until the cold weather.
These representatives include the dwarf varieties of Cossack juniper Tamariscifolia and Green Carpet - low-growing, creeping along the ground, very frost-resistant. These are ideal options for creating compact alpine slides, rockeries, lawn edgings, and borders.
Shrubs for hedges should also be selected from among low or medium-sized representatives with a dense crown, so that later instead of an attractive fence you do not end up with columns of tall thickets. Spiny bushes, ornamental flowering, columnar representatives, for example, junipers are optimally suited for such a design. Weigela, buddleia, spirela, and oleander are well suited for joint plantings; they will look harmonious with other green fellows growing nearby. And if you want to form an arch or, for example, decorate a gazebo or fence, then in this case you should choose climbing types.
The choice is wide! For each site of any size and shape, you can find your own option. In addition to flowering plants, there are many varieties of shrubs with amazing foliage colors, unusual crowns, and leaf shapes. Diversity is an important aspect in this matter. In most cases, the dacha landscape is divided into three zones (or tiers): the lower one - vegetable beds and flower beds, top – fruit trees. But bushes can occupy the so-called middle zone. The correct selection and combination of plants with each other is the main goal for a summer resident who strives for beauty, comfort and harmony in his plot.
Decorative deciduous or flowering shrubs are not only a pleasure to contemplate, but also functional plants. Thus, by planting them near the fence, you can create a barrier from prying eyes or unwanted penetration (spiky varieties).
With their help, it is very convenient to zone a site, for example, to separate recreation areas and an area for growing garden crops.
Borders, paths, hedges, which have already been mentioned, creating protection (shade) for more delicate shade-loving plants, decorating some unsightly fragments on the site - all this can be decorated, decorated or hidden with the help of a variety of bushes and shrubs. And if you decide to plant fruit representatives, you will be additionally rewarded for your efforts with healthy berries.
Flowering shrubs for the garden
Some of these representatives are also fruit-bearing; this nuance will be indicated in the description.
Weigela
I’ll start, perhaps, with flowering weigela. This shrub looks great both during and after flowering. The Nana Variegata variety can also be classified as a decorative deciduous variety; its foliage has a beautiful golden border, and Nana Purpurea has dark, red-brown leaves.
Weigela Nana Purpurea The blooming weigela species delights the eye with pink bell-like flowers that bloom in waves throughout the season (usually the entire month of May). The first wave is the most abundant. Some varieties can produce color twice a year, such as Weigela Middendorf.
Weigel Middendorf Spirea
Spiraea is very unpretentious and very beautiful. Its varieties can bloom in both spring and summer. If you calculate the time correctly, then you can plant these two species in such a way that one fades and the second just enters the flowering phase. Some varieties of spirea have beautiful foliage - Vagnutta, Pink Ice. For this reason, they can be classified as decorative deciduous shrubs.
Spiraea Wangutta Spiraea blooms profusely and luxuriantly, bending its branches literally covered with white flowers to the very ground.
The low, slow-growing Japanese spirea blooms with lush lilac-pink inflorescences. It is also attractive and a honey plant, like its white-flowering variety.
Spiraea japonica Spiraea are not particularly picky about the choice of soil, but you should pay attention to the light/shade requirements of different varieties.
Spiraea in winter:
Jasmine or mock orange
Garden jasmine or mock orange - what would we do without it?! Because of its enchanting aroma, almost everyone knows and loves it. Today there are multiple varieties and hybrids of it - all of them are very attractive. Flowers vary in size, shape, color and aroma.
But in our case we are talking about a white-flowered representative - frost-resistant, disease-resistant, very unpretentious (can be placed in the shade or in a place illuminated by sunlight). It looks equally great in group plantings and in single plantings, the main thing is to water it on time, but do not allow water to stagnate in the area around the tree trunk. The flowering time of mock orange depends on its variety, but it usually begins in May and lasts about a month. There are those that bloom both in summer and early autumn.
Chubushnik:
Jasmine (mock orange) Kalina
Viburnum refers to both fruiting specimens and decorative deciduous plants. A unique plant in every sense: it blooms beautifully with large white spherical inflorescences, the berries are useful, and are widely used as medicine. The foliage is also noteworthy: its shade varies from rich green to gold and red.
In general, viburnum has many species (about 200), among which you can even find evergreen specimens. In our area, the most common and popular are its two familiar species - common viburnum and viburnum bulldonezh. They are frost-resistant, not capricious, decorative at any time of the year, they love shade and moderate watering. Flowering time: mid-May/late June, approximately 20 days.
Viburnum viburnum in bloom and with fruits:
Viburnum common Kalina buldenezh:
Kalina buldenezh Rose hip
Some shrubs that can grow in the country do not even need introduction or recommendations, for example, rose hips. It is attractive in appearance, useful in many ways, not only will it decorate your site in the spring when it blooms with pink or red flowers, but it will also create a thorny barrier if you plant it along the fence. Some of its varieties have flowers that are as beautiful as roses (double type), and varieties with healing red berries will give you a natural “medicine”, the valuable qualities of which are known to everyone. Rosehip is unpretentious, branches quickly, has a very dense crown, prefers sun or partial shade. It blooms from May to August.
Rosehip blooms 
Rosehip fence 
Rosehip leaf in autumn Lilac
Fragrant, with many colors and shades - lilac! Without it, it is difficult to imagine a summer cottage or local area, be it private or multi-storey building. Lilac is a fairly large (up to 2, 3 or more meters in height) shrub. Even in a small area, even one bush can be planted. There are many different varieties of lilacs.
It is resistant to cold, unpretentious, beautiful in itself (good when planted alone). It is preferable to place it in a sunny place, but lilac will also feel comfortable in partial shade. When planting, leave free space around it so that it does not feel crowded. Flowering time is May, for some the period extends until June.
Common lilac 
White lilac 
Hungarian lilac 
Lilac Beauty of Moscow Forsythia
Flowering forsythia bushes are the real “suns” on your site! It blooms in early spring with bright yellow bells, and foliage on the bush appears after the flowers have fallen. The period of abundant flowering lasts approximately three weeks.
This is a heat-loving representative that shows its decorative potential to the maximum in the warm regions of our country. It looks great as a stand-alone plant or surrounded by bulbous flowers. Suitable for forming hedges, does not like waterlogged soil, drafts and cold winds. It prefers light, fertile soil; it is better to protect it with covering material in the winter. Its other name is forsythia. Forsythia bushes are medium in size and suitable for small areas.
Forsythia:
Forsythia bush shaped like a ball Hydrangea
There are shrubs that grow and bloom where many others refuse to develop and produce color. Hydrangea, which prefers shade and moist soil, belongs to these specimens. This frost-resistant shrub blooms with large snow-white, lilac, pink, blue, and purple “balls.” If you cut a hydrangea flower and put it in a vase, it will last quite a long time.
Hydrangea is characterized by long flowering, which begins around July and continues until early autumn. Some varieties, for example “Freudenstein,” bloom until October inclusive. This is a non-capricious plant that feels good even on acidic soil, which most flower and garden representatives do not like. Can be used in single plantings, but also looks harmonious in company with rhododendrons, clematis, lilies, roses, all kinds of hostas, and fern varieties.
Hydrangea, photo:
Hydrangea bushes 
Hydrangea paniculata Vanilla Frazee Budleya David
Buddleia is a shrub that has become quite popular among gardeners lately. Its blue, lilac, pink, slightly elongated inflorescences consist of multiple small flowers that exude a magical sweet aroma. This plant can reach 3 meters in height, blooms for quite a long time, from mid-July to the second half of September. Due to some external similarity, it is sometimes called autumn lilac.
Looks attractive when planted alone on a lawn, as well as in the company of cinquefoil and low-growing ground cover roses. It is also good as a tub plant, but the container for it must be large. Thus, by placing buddleia in a voluminous flowerpot, you can decorate a terrace or a place near the steps or entrance to the room. Loves sunlit places, drained fertile soil, does not like drafts and windy areas.
Buddleya David:
Budleya David bush 
Budleya Davida inflorescences Deytsia
A relative of hydrangea and mock orange, deutia is characterized by abundant and long flowering (from 30 to 60 days). If you plant it in partial shade and protected from drafts, starting around June, it will bloom with densely growing white-pink or snow-white (depending on the variety) racemose inflorescences.
Most varieties of deutia are tall flowering shrubs that can reach 4 meters in height. Looks great as a hedge and in single plantings.
Deutzia bush 
Deutia inflorescences Japonica
In fact, there are a great many flowering shrubs; unfortunately, it is simply impossible to describe them all in one article. Many of them combine the beauty of flowering and the taste of fruit, such as Chaenomeles (or Japanese Quince), which grows up to 2 meters or more and blooms with bright, eye-catching red flowers. Subsequently it produces edible fruits ranging in size from 3 to 6 cm.
Chaenomeles or Japanese quince: 
Chaenomeles blooms 
Chaenomeles fruits Broom
Very handsome and popular. Depending on the variety, it blooms with “moth” flowers of different shades. This representative is so unpretentious that he will feel comfortable even on poor soil. Resistant to drought and cold, unpretentious, looks great in single and group plantings. This honey plant is often planted on slopes.
Broom:
Broom Lena:
Broom blooms for about 30 days and comes in different heights, again, depending on the variety.
tree peony
It is impossible not to mention the tree peony, whose luxurious beauty will become a true decoration of your site.
tree peony Rhododendron
Also, rhododendron is a garden favorite among southern summer residents; with the onset of spring, this shrub is simply buried in pink, lilac, lilac, and red bouquets of flowers.
Rhododendron Decorative deciduous shrubs for the garden
This is a separate category of shrubs, without which, often, not a single summer cottage can do. As in the case of flowering varieties, it will not be possible to talk about all worthy specimens in one article, but it is worth focusing your attention on individual representatives. In most cases, decorative deciduous shrubs do not require special care; their longevity is a separate advantage. Having planted a bush once, creating comfortable living conditions, you can admire it for many years.
Red Japanese maple
If you like a riot of red shades, then you should definitely plant a red Japanese maple on your site. This is a shrub with a voluminous crown, its foliage first has a bright green color, then, closer to autumn, it becomes reddish-orange and eventually turns into a bright red, carmine hue.
In fact, there are many varieties of Japanese maple, each with its own attractive foliage color. The variety “Aconitifolium” has orange-red leaves, “Vitifolium” has carmine-red leaves, one of the most popular is “Atropurpureum” which has dark red, almost black-red foliage. They look great anywhere on the site, love partial shade, harmonize with conifers, and combine with ferns and hostas.
Red Japanese maple:
Fieldfare
The frost-resistant Rowan-leaved Sam is very unpretentious, grows quickly, is beautiful in bloom, but its foliage deserves special attention. Openwork leaves have interesting feature– gradient, transition from one shade to another. Orange, red, yellow, pinkish, green - all these colors smoothly mix with each other on one single piece of paper. From a distance it resembles a bright fire; a riot of colors is observed throughout the entire season, especially closer to autumn. It can be used in group plantings to hide unattractive landscape details; it grows equally well in sunny areas and in partial shade. Fieldfare is not particularly picky about soil, but moist, loose and nutritious soil is more preferable for it. Drought is undesirable for him.
Rowan-leaved Sam:
Barberry
Barberries are a separate topic; the first among them, in terms of its external characteristics, is the Thunberg barberry with purple leaves. Even in winter, its red thorny branches attract attention. With the arrival of spring, it blooms with reddish leaves, against which yellow flowers they look very elegant. Gradually, closer to summer, the barberry foliage becomes intensely red, and in the fall all shades of burgundy, scarlet and carmine color the entire plant.
Prefers sunny and semi-shaded places, is unpretentious, but does not respond well to excessive soil moisture. The scope of application is wide - from hedges to single plantings or planting in a flower bed surrounded by other flower representatives. Its dwarf variety is considered to be the variety "Atropurpurea Nana".
Barberry Thunberg, photo:
Variety of Thurnberg barberry - Tini Gold:
Variegated varieties of barberry are Rose Glow (red leaves with pink dots), Admiration with golden edging along the edges of the red leaf, Kelleris with white-green foliage, Natasza with pink-greenish-white leaves.
Barberry Admiration:
Barberry with golden foliage Golden Rocket is incredibly attractive; the greenish-golden leaves of this shrub are so bright that they are visible to the eye from afar and attract attention. They look perfect on green lawns, in the form of hedges, on mixboards among other plants.
Barberry Golden Rocket:
Barberries with golden foliage have several varieties, but all of them are distinguished by the main feature - the color of the leaves. For example, barberry Diabolicum has a red edge around the edges of a greenish-yellow, almost golden leaf. Compact varieties of these shrubs are Tiny Gold (photo above) and Bonanza Gold.
Barberry with golden foliage (left):
Composition of several varieties of barberry Deren
Doren is a very attractive shrub, and at any time of the year and even completely without foliage! There are many varieties of dogwood, for example, Elegantissima with white-green leaves, Siberica Variegata has reddish-green foliage with pink edging around the edges, Kesselring boasts chameleon leaves of a brownish-pink hue with the addition of yellow and green colors.
When winter comes and the turf sheds its leaves, its shoots directed upward have a bright red color and clearly stand out against the white snow. It is unpretentious, shade-tolerant, frost-resistant, and takes root on any soil. The maximum height of this representative is 3 meters, but red turf can grow even higher. Of course, it takes up a lot of space, but the color of its foliage is simply stunning. If you own a large plot, it may make sense to pay attention to red turf.
Red dogwood, photo:
Red dogwood in winter:
Euonymus
Fortune's euonymus is a rather low-growing (up to 60 cm) shrub, native to China. It has many varieties, but all of them are distinguished by the variegated, noticeable color of the foliage. It can be shaped like a bush, or it can be shaped like a vine, setting the direction with a rope, and there, with its aerial roots, it will cling to anything, even a wall.
Depending on the variety, euonymus has different color leaf edges. For example, the leaves can be pale green with a white edge, or they can be bright green with a yellow edge (Emerald Gold variety). This is a frost-resistant plant, not capricious, loves moderately moist soil, looks great as a single element or the main accent of a flower bed, in a word - good in any form and looks appropriate in a company that matches the color.
Euonymus Fortune:
Bladderwort
Bladderwort is very interesting because, depending on the variety, it has completely different foliage colors. This is a non-capricious plant, however, it will feel more comfortable on loose, moderately moist soil. Widely used in landscape design: some varieties can be cut and given any shape, other varieties are used to create borders or hedges. He is good and attractive both on his own and in the company of other garden representatives.
I advise you to pay attention to the following vesicles: Diabolo, which has dark red, almost black leaves and looks impressive, but a little gothic. In spring, its foliage has a lighter shade - carmine red, but then gradually darkens. The Darts Gold variety, on the contrary, has a cheerful leaf color - yellow-fiery. And the Nugget variety changes the shade of the foliage depending on the time of year; at first the leaves are yellow, and towards autumn they turn green. Red-leaved bladderwort is another popular species, with scarlet leaves in the spring and dark burgundy, beetroot leaves with the arrival of cold weather.
Bubble plant in the country:
When talking about decorative deciduous shrubs, one cannot help but recall the Japanese spirea, which not only has beautiful flowers, but also multi-colored, bright foliage.
The leaves of common heather do not lose their beauty even with the arrival of winter; it is unpretentious, but loves sunlight.
The shrubs that you want to choose for your dacha should always be divided by height, requirements (pretentious/unpretentious), frost resistance, and compatibility with other plants.
Spiraea foliage in autumn, photo:
Weigela foliage, photo:
Hawthorn also comes to mind, which has so many different varieties that among them any gardener can find a shrub to his liking. Hawthorn bushes can be used to form any shape; its fruits are medicinal and are used in folk and official medicine. In its “behavior” it is somewhat similar to boxwood; it looks great in the design of hedges, in group plantings, as well as in a single specimen.
A hedge of ornamental shrubs
A hedge is one of the most popular, interesting and favorite gardening “structures”, in which green spaces act as a “building” material. Depending on the desired result, the hedge can be designed in the form of a low border or, conversely, a high green wall. You can choose any shape or length of such a fence; this is a truly creative activity that almost always gives an excellent result. A green fence can hide unsightly elements of a summer cottage (for example, an old fence, fencing), highlight separate areas on the territory, or emphasize other accents of landscape design.
When choosing shrubs for this purpose, you need to consider the following parameters:
- Varieties of shrubs - in fact, the choice of plants for creating hedges is very large. It is necessary to approach the choice not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also from a practical one. These can be homogeneous shrubs or a mixed version, when different varieties and species are used that are in harmony with each other.
- Plant growth rate - calculate all the nuances: how often do you visit the dacha, will you be able to trim and adjust the bushes on time. In what place does the shrub you have chosen grow (sunny or shaded) and how will it manifest itself in this area. This also includes the question of the shape of the future hedge, so the growth rate of the bushes is a very pressing issue.
- Height of shrubs - before making your final choice, carefully study the potential of the bush and compare its capabilities with your wishes. This point also includes the density (width) of the plantings; you may have to plant them in two or even three rows.
- Preparing the soil for bushes - take this factor into account; certain types of ornamental shrubs require a special soil composition. If in doubt, choose the most unpretentious varieties or consult with more experienced gardeners in this matter. In some cases, you will have to pre-prepare the soil for the desired variety of shrubs.
If you are a beginner, give preference to non-capricious and shade-tolerant specimens that will not require daily soil moisture. Although it is the last aspect that depends on how often you visit the dacha. Remember that the most successful mixed-type hedges are obtained by planting plants with the same (or similar) biological requirements for moisture, light, soil quality, as well as with a similar growth rate.
Thuja hedge, photo:
If we consider coniferous shrubs for hedges, then dwarf forms of spruce, thuja or juniper will suit you. Such a hedge will always be green, at any time of the year.
The dwarf spruce Nidiformis is unpretentious, has a bright green color, and does not exceed one meter in height. Small bushes are planted at a distance of 1 meter from each other; no pruning is done until the next season, until the spruce grows. Further correction is made from the sides (by two-thirds of the length of the branches) and from above (by cutting the upper branches by about a third of their length).
Spruce Nidiformis, photo:
Norway spruce hedge:
In nature, thuja is presented not only in the form of a tree, but also a bush. It is the bushy and dwarf varieties of thuja that are used to create hedges. This plant is easy to give the desired shape and height, it emits a pleasant pine aroma, is always green and looks great. T and Smaragd or Brabant are most often used by Russians to design green hedges. Thuja seedlings are planted approximately 50 or 70 cm from each other, and trimming and trimming are done only in the 2nd or 3rd year of the plants’ life. Smaragd is cut less often, Brabant - more often, all thujas are frost-resistant and perform well when planted in clay or sandy soil. Moderate soil moisture – best option for them. Varieties Hosery, Danica, Teddy, Little Dorrit are also suitable for creating hedges.
Juniper is one of the favorite, popular, easy-to-cut and easy-to-care plants for decorating green hedges. It loves sunlight and is resistant to drought and cold, but it should be protected from excessively moist soil (avoid swampiness). You should not plant it if your site is dominated by clay soil. The bushes are planted at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other, and trimmed approximately 2 times a year. Please note that juniper grows quite quickly.
Juniper, photo:
Juniper hedge in one of the southern cities If you want to create a hedge from a climbing plant, and very quickly, pay attention to Aubert's knotweed. This is one of the fastest growing liana shrubs, reaching one and a half meters in length per season. This plant is unpretentious to the soil, often needs adjustment (pruning), blooms with thick white inflorescences and requires a pre-installed strong support.
Aubert's Highlander, photo:
Hops is a shrub and at the same time a climbing vine. Unpretentious, frost-resistant, loves moist soil, does not need frequent adjustments. The plant produces very nice medium-sized buds that only add to the beauty of the dense, bright green foliage. He also needs reliable and strong support and a garter.
A luxurious hedge is made from climbing roses. Depending on your preferences, you can choose any variety with the desired shade of buds.
The Graham Thomas variety produces yellow flowers, Adelaide d'Orleans - white buds with a yellowish center, Super Dorothy blooms with numerous lush pink buds, Alaska - a snow-white rose, delicate and at the same time solemn.
Such a hedge will definitely not leave anyone indifferent. Be prepared for care and regular pruning; if you choose roses, they will also need support. Rose bushes can also be used in this capacity.
A hedge of climbing roses, photo:
Clematis is an ornamental shrub and at the same time a liana. This plant loves sun, fertile, drained and slightly alkaline soil. It turns into a dense fence in about 2 or 3 years; it looks very impressive thanks to large flowers of a wide variety of colors, as well as thick, rich green foliage. Requires strong support, like all vines.
The thorn (or blackthorn) reaches a height of two meters, blooms with white flowers densely spaced towards each other, and has multiple spines. When planting thorns to create a hedge, each bush will need to be secured and tied to a peg. This way you will set the shrub in the right direction and support it at first until it gains strength. The first month after planting, seedlings should be watered regularly. The blackthorn grows very quickly and produces dark blue fruits - wild plums (delicious, slightly tart in taste).
Blackthorn, photo:
Sea buckthorn is a useful and very attractive-looking shrub, ornamental and fruit-bearing, I would say. Gardeners recommend planting shrubby sea buckthorn in two rows. Despite the fact that trimming reduces the yield of sea buckthorn, the aesthetic side of the matter only benefits from this. This frost-resistant plant can be with or without thorns. Requires pre-installed reliable support - then everything will be beautiful and even.
Snowberry is an incredibly attractive shrub. It got its name thanks to its snow-white fruits, which are located on the branches in the form of clusters. Even when the plant loses all its foliage, these berries last a long time, sometimes even until spring. The shrub itself is excellent for forming hedges; it grows up to one and a half to two meters in height. Often there is no need for special adjustments, since the branches themselves bend to the ground under the weight of the bunches. If you trim the plant regularly, it most likely will not bear fruit. The shrub is unpretentious, frost-resistant, blooms in mid-summer with inconspicuous small bell-shaped flowers of a white-green or pinkish hue. The berries are poisonous to humans, but they are quite edible for birds.
Snowberry, photo:
For a hedge, it is best to choose dense-leaved plants that are easy to form. Such a “fence” should be tight, without so-called gaps. Depending on your preferences, you can choose a flowering or evergreen, coniferous option.
Fruit bushes, such as Schmidt Currant, Felt Cherry or Gooseberry, are suitable not only for creating green hedges, but will also additionally reward you with edible fruits.
When choosing a shrub, take into account its characteristics, resistance to cold, and soil requirements. It is quite possible that to maintain an attractive appearance, some representatives will need periodic feeding and fertilizing. No matter how unpretentious the variety you choose may seem, maintaining a decent appearance of a green hedge will require you to spend time and effort. Any shrub will have to be refined, trimmed, and kept in shape. Poor soil should be fed with fertilizers at least once a year, and fertile soils - once every 4 years.
The above-mentioned flowering shrubs, such as spirea, jasmine, lilac, and rose hips, can also be used to create a hedge. They can be combined with each other and planted alternately. Different varieties of barberries planted one after another (variety by variety) will create an incredible effect. Cypress bushes (dwarf varieties) are also ideal for forming green “fences”.
Berry Yew, which does not exceed 60 cm in height, grows in rounded bushes - it is also excellent for this purpose.
It all depends on your imagination and availability of free time. Always keep in mind that tall shrubs require more space between placing seedlings. Do not forget also about the climatic characteristics of your region when choosing an ornamental shrub.
Ornamental shrubs are most often planted either in the fall, before frost sets in, or in early spring, when the buds on the trees are just beginning to emerge and the snow has already melted. Moreover, holes for spring planting should be prepared in the fall - apply appropriate fertilizers, calculate the depth and width of the hole for a certain type of shrub. Buy seedlings from reliable places - special nurseries or flower shops. Before planting in the ground, the plant can be kept for several hours in water to which a growth stimulant has previously been added.
In addition to the agrotechnical features of a single species, you should remember a simple formula:
- Low and dwarf representatives are buried in the soil at a distance of approximately 60-80 cm from each other.
- Plants are medium in size - about one and a half meters from each other.
- Tall specimens that need space for development - at least 2 meters from each other.
The decorative shrubs for the garden presented in this article, the photos and names of which will help you make your choice, are the most popular and adapted for our regions. Choose green residents according to your taste and color, let your summer cottage become even more attractive and, to some extent, unique.
Photos of shrubs for a summer house or local area
Honeysuckle Honeysuckle 
Willow globulus 
Maiden grapes 
Deytsia 
Barberry Harlequin Trees and shrubs in garden landscape design are as much a priority element as flowering plants. From them correct location The semantic completeness of the composition depends, because they are often planted along the perimeter to mark the boundaries of rock gardens, rockeries and other design ideas. Often the compositions of trees and shrubs themselves are accents on the site, and then flowers and other plants are planted around them.
How to arrange trees in the garden, plant a coniferous garden on a summer cottage and create other original compositions, you will learn on this page.
Compositions of trees and shrubs in the garden
If there are already trees and shrubs in your garden, you need to treat them with care and understand that this is the wealth of the garden. Try to emphasize their beauty and make them accents of the garden.
If a tree or shrub dries out or significantly interferes with the ease of movement around the site, or interferes with the implementation of important plans for arranging the garden, you can think about uprooting it. Well, if there are no trees in your garden (this often happens in new, uninhabited areas), then, of course, you need to plant them! Only in this case will you create the image of the garden, and it is important to correctly determine the species of trees and shrubs and where to plant them. Remember, trees and shrubs are what make a garden a garden. They make its shape and structure noticeable, even from afar, emphasize an interesting layout, and unite the garden into a single system. In addition, trees and shrubs in the garden represent the long-term basis of the garden, to which one can add certain “scenery”, plant or architectural, and also change them, like a construction set. If you have created a successful foundation with trees and shrubs, you have created at least half the success. In order for the foundation of the garden to be successful, it is necessary to correctly select and place trees and shrubs in the garden. Moreover, the concept of “choosing the right thing” means not only choosing the right one based on the appearance and physical condition of these plants, namely the right height, with the right crown shape, with the right leaf color.
How to arrange trees and shrubs in the garden
It is necessary to plant trees and shrubs in such a way as to emphasize the planning lines of the site.
It is necessary to plant trees and shrubs in places where the appearance and shape of these trees and shrubs will emphasize the shape of the relief, the shape of structures and structures on the landscape, the configuration and other landscape objects.
Pay attention to the photo; shrubs in the garden, like trees, look good at the entrance to the house and on the site:
Photo gallery
Trees and shrubs look good next to garden stairs and retaining walls.
Trees and shrubs look good at forks and bends of paths.
Suitable places for trees in landscape design are around the perimeter of the site.
You can plant trees and shrubs in flower beds and next to flower beds.
An elegant option for placing shrubs in landscape design - as “solo” plants or accents.
The original arrangement of trees and shrubs in the garden
The original arrangement of trees and shrubs in the garden is to place them in “modules,” that is, specially organized places for planting trees and shrubs during construction.
Shrubs in garden design look original in places where the so-called “garden perspectives” (beautiful views into the distance) are located.
Moreover, if such a perspective is wide, it is “divided” with the help of trees and shrubs into several types, and if it is narrow, then it is decorated with plants along the edges, like a “frame”.
Trees and shrubs in garden design (with photos)
Each group of trees and shrubs should contain plants of different shapes, different heights, with different shapes and colors of leaves, in order to give a variety of textures to the whole. One of the most beautiful types of tree design in the garden is a sharply contrasting group, where absolutely all of its components have different shapes crowns
But at the same time, for a special purpose, groups of plants with some identical characteristics are often arranged, for example, a group of shrubs that have only a spherical crown shape.
Pay attention to the photo: trees in landscape design must be balanced by other parameters: the size of the plants, the color of leaves and flowers, the relative position of these plants relative to each other.
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Each group should look good from different points in the garden. Therefore, when compiling it, it is necessary to periodically inspect it from all sides from a certain distance.
Planting trees in landscape design (with photos)
Planting trees in landscape design should be done according to the principle of tiers: from taller plants to lower ones; they cannot be randomly mixed.
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In this case, light-loving plants should be located on the southern side of the group. Tiered planting is not only beautiful, but also beneficial for plants: such plantings create the best conditions for lighting all plants. Each group of ornamental shrubs in a garden design, like each group of trees, should be composed taking into account seasonality, so that it is decorative throughout the season. In order for it to be decorative in winter, the group must include trees or shrubs with expressive patterns and colors of branches, as well as conifers. Beautiful groups of trees and shrubs combine trees of the same species of different ages, for example, a group of spruce trees of different ages.
An effective option is a group of plants of the same species, but of different varieties, for example, a group planting of different varieties of mountain ash or a group of 3-4 varieties of maple.
Coniferous garden at the dacha (dacha plot)
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Coniferous gardens are especially beautiful, where several types of coniferous plants are combined. In addition, with the help of coniferous gardens in the countryside, you can create so-called “health corners”, where it will be especially pleasant and useful to relax after a hard day.
Decorative trees and shrubs in landscape design
A beautiful “designer” technique for planting plants in groups is bouquet planting. Of course, it is better to plant some plants, not all, in this way; then the effect will be greater, since there will be a contrast between the plantings.
Ornamental trees in landscape design during bouquet planting are planted in one planting hole several at a time (but no more than 5). In this case, the planting pit itself is made wider, and the roots of the plants are placed not in the center, but along the edges of the pit. Bouquet planting is good not only in a group, but also when creating a separate garden accent. In this case, the tree or shrub may be less “showy”; the bouquet style of planting will give expressiveness.
You can create a group of completely different trees and shrubs, but with one predominant foliage color, for example, a “silver” group.
Do not forget that often groups of ornamental shrubs in landscape design are supplemented with herbaceous perennials, grasses, annual flowers and decorative elements; this gives such groups additional “degrees of freedom”.
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But trees and shrubs not only emphasize the originality and beauty of the garden. As you can see in the photo, shrubs in garden design are unsurpassed decorators: if there are any problems in the garden, you can easily eliminate them with the help of trees and shrubs, since these are large objects that completely distract attention to themselves.
Decorative trees and shrubs in garden design
If the area of the plot is small, you can visually dissolve the boundaries of the garden by planting trees, shrubs and flowers.
The difference in shapes, textures, shades of foliage, bright spots will do their job: the clarity of the boundaries will disappear, and you will get the impression that there, further on, is also a garden.
In the case of a small and too legible garden area, the “shape distortion” method is also suitable. And here trees and shrubs simply have no equal - to emphasize the “new” planning lines.
If you see the entire area at once, you evaluate its entire area. But the garden should be full of mysteries and discoveries, so that you want to see what is there next, what other interesting corners there are in this garden.
It follows that interesting corners should be somewhat hidden, or at least half-open. The best solution is garden partitions, and also beautiful trees and shrubs.
Design of trees and shrubs in the garden
You need to arrange the garden in such a way that from any point in the garden you can see a beautiful “perspective”, and your gaze will not “stumble” on anything. Then your garden will have depth. At the same time, the observed perspective should not be too straightforward, that is, the view in question should not look like a monotonous corridor, it should be pleasant to the eye. You should see enough interesting objects that you would like to look at.
For example, you can look into the distance and see a beautifully shaped tree or shrub, a bright flower garden, an unusual element of a path, a corner of a gazebo, shine, notice the transition from shadow to light, and in the distance, as a result of the entire visual “journey,” see a beautiful group of trees, and underneath them is a recreation area.
If there is at least a slight relief on the site, the site definitely seems larger. Sometimes this effect can be achieved by filling your garden with “potential difference” with the help of plants of different heights, shapes and textures, and trees and shrubs are best suited for this - they are the most expressive.
It's no secret that a mirror doubles space, so your garden itself can become such a mirror. It's simple: pay attention to the views outside your garden. And then repeat certain elements of what you see in your own area. If you see a lake in the distance, plan on your site, if there is a river - if there is a birch grove - planting birch trees, if there is a hilly landscape -.
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The principle is this: the surrounding nature should be reflected on your site, like in a mirror. This also applies to nearby objects: for example, if you see your neighbor’s tree behind the fence, that means you need to include it in your composition. Just in this place near the fence, organize a group of ornamental shrubs so that this tree looks like part of your group.
Trees and shrubs are the first helpers for creating “green rooms” in the garden. They can also be used to create hedges.
If the area is too damp, trees and shrubs around the perimeter of the area will help you. This solution is quite compatible with the “openwork” options, and in terms of effectiveness it is even better than the previous one, since the most effective remedy against the wind is to let it “get entangled.” In combination with a non-solid fence, many layers and various guides are formed along which the wind will change direction and be greatly weakened.
If the area is too sunny, planting trees and shrubs will provide much-desired shade and increase humidity. Take care of the trees and shrubs that you already have and plant new ones.
Place new plantings so that at any time of the day, at any position of the sun, there are some “islands” of shadow on the site. To correctly determine the locations, observe the “route” of the sun during the day in advance.
Trees and shrubs on a plot in the forest
If your site is in the forest, trees and shrubs will have a certain landscape “exclusiveness”. Therefore, you should definitely not cut down trees and shrubs to the maximum. This requires careful analysis.
The best solution is to create a plot in the “forest garden” style. There is no need to strive for maximum lighting here; a forest garden is a shady garden. Lighten only some strategic areas, but do not try to make the entire area sunny - its individuality will disappear.
Growing a beautiful garden is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It is enough to choose the right seedlings and correctly place them on the site. Planting of fruit trees and shrubs is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn. Seedlings need not only to be planted correctly open ground, but also choose the most suitable place for them with good soil, sufficient lighting and protection from drafts.
This article describes in detail the features of planting fruit trees and shrubs, the rules for selecting and preparing a site, and photos and videos will help you carry out this procedure correctly.
Planting fruit trees
A well-kept orchard is not only a wonderful decoration for your summer cottage, but also a rich source of vitamins.
It will take a lot of effort and time to grow it like this. And our article will also arm you with the necessary knowledge and rules that will help in cultivating an orchard.
Rules
Sometimes it happens that the seedlings were of high quality, and the holes were prepared on time and appropriately, but the garden still does not begin to grow. Most often this occurs because novice gardeners do not know the rules for placing seedlings. It is their strict adherence that guarantees that all your efforts and expenses invested in your future garden will not be in vain.
Planting of fruit and berry trees and shrubs is carried out as follows:(Figure 1):
- The soil is prepared in advance, for example, for spring planting - in the fall, and includes loosening the soil and applying fertilizers.
- Immediately before transferring to the ground, seedlings must be placed in water for several hours to root system had the opportunity to make some supply of moisture.
- Damaged or too long roots should be trimmed smoothly.
- The roots of the seedling should be freely placed in the hole.
- It is not enough to simply dig a hole of the required size: you also need to loosen its bottom and lay a layer of compost filled with fertilizer on it.
- It is necessary to drive a support stake into the dug hole on the leeward side.
- The soil that remains from digging a hole is mixed with compost, mineral and organic fertilizers, and sand. This substrate is used to fill the hole after planting a tree.
- The seedlings are placed strictly vertically in the hole. If the tree is grafted, the grafting site should be located above ground level at a height of 10 cm.
- During planting, the hole is filled evenly with prepared soil, compacting it and carrying out intermediate watering.
Figure 1. Rules for planting seedlings After planting the tree, it is necessary to form a watering circle. To do this, a mound in the form of a roller 5-7 cm high is made along the entire circumference of the hole, and the trunk circle itself is mulched with organic matter (rotted manure, straw, raw compost). The planted tree must be watered abundantly and tied to a peg.
Peculiarities
When planning to plant a garden, you should start by cultivating the soil in the selected area: deeply loosen the soil and remove weeds, because in loose soil, seedlings grow quickly and begin to bear fruit much earlier. Then you need to decide on the size of the holes.
Note: For annual plants, dig holes 50-60 cm deep and wide; for two-year-old plants you will need a hole 110-120 cm wide and 60-70 cm deep. If the soil is heavy, then add 15-20 cm to all dimensions.
If the soil has a high level of acidity, it must be limed. Organic and ash fertilizers are used for fertilizer. It is not recommended to use fresh or half-rotted manure, since if there is a lack of air in the soil, it decomposes and releases harmful substances that poison the entire plant.
Where to plant fruit trees on the site
When choosing a place for fruit crops, pay attention to the topography, the nature of the soil, the depth of groundwater, and the possibility of protection from the wind. At your summer cottage, give preference to a place with good lighting that is not flooded by groundwater. Thus, the maximum height of groundwater for apple and pear trees is 1.5 m, for cherries and plums - 1 m. If groundwater is high, drainage will have to be done (Figure 2).
Figure 2. Placement of fruit trees and shrubs on the site It is known that gardens grow best on gentle slopes, but flat planting is not so effective. It is not recommended to plant a garden in hollows due to the stagnation of cold air and excess water.
Which side of the world should you plant fruit trees from?
An important role is played not only by the fact of when to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring or autumn, but also by the direction of the world where the garden will be located.
Experienced gardeners advise planting fruit trees on the south, southeast and southwest sides of the site.
Planting types
The correct arrangement of plants in the garden, that is, the type of planting, most directly affects the survival rate of seedlings. Therefore, it is so important to imagine it in all details before starting to lay out a garden. It is also necessary to calculate the distances between seedlings. The interval between them should be no less than the height of mature trees. It is in such conditions that plants will pollinate and bear fruit more efficiently. It is also known that more fruits are produced on the side branches, so the crowns of fruit trees should be shaped so that they grow in width (Figure 3).
Figure 3. Main types of planting fruit trees: 1 - in groups, 2 - central placement in bouquets, 3 - checkerboard, 4 - row planting, 5 - row planting of different species, 6 - central planting of shrubs However, you should know that if the location is too sparse, fruit trees are more susceptible to sunburn and frostbites, so they grow much worse. In this case, so-called “compactors” are planted between tall fruit crops, that is, low-growing fruit crops, for example, cherries or plums. They are not as durable as apple and pear trees, and therefore stop bearing fruit after 20 years of life and can be removed, since the crowns of tall trees will have already had time to fully form and grow by that time.
When to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring
Timely planting of fruit tree seedlings in the spring is important not only for their survival, but also for the subsequent growth and development of plants. The question arises when is the best time to plant fruit trees and shrubs in the spring.
Since changes in nature occur very quickly, the air temperature rises, the soil dries out quickly, so the best time for the procedure is considered to be early spring, although in the southern regions it can be done in the fall. However, a crop such as cherry often freezes when planted in the fall, so it needs to be planted only in the spring. Moreover, the sooner the tree is planted, the better and faster it will take root.
How to choose a landing site
When choosing a place to place fruit crops, you should pay attention to several factors: the depth of groundwater, lighting and the presence of drafts. Thus, groundwater must lie at a depth of at least 1 m. Otherwise, trees will have to be placed on mounds 60-120 cm high.
It is known that fruit trees need a lot of sunlight and heat, so it would be wise to choose a site that is well lit by the sun, preferably on the south side of the site. In addition, it should be taken into account that young trees are afraid of drafts, so you should try to place the young garden under the protection of buildings. Experienced gardeners recommend not planting seedlings in the same place where fruit trees used to grow. The wasteland area remaining after uprooting the garden must be sown with meadow or legume grasses for several years or the soil in the pits must be completely changed.
Planting fruit tree seedlings in spring timing
Spring planting should be carried out as early as possible, the determination of which depends specifically on the seedling and weather conditions.
In any case, the work should be completed before the buds bloom on the trees (seedlings). The survival and development of culture in the future depends on this.
Planting fruit trees in spring: video
When to plant fruit tree seedlings in the spring and how to do it correctly, you can see in the video clip. Its author will give valuable practical recommendations for planting, which will certainly be useful to beginners and experienced gardeners.
Planting fruit tree seedlings in autumn
Although spring planting is most often practiced, autumn planting also has its advantages (Figure 4). For example, in the fall it is much more profitable to purchase seedlings, since there is an opportunity to see the fruits that a certain variety produces. In addition, seedlings planted in autumn do not require much trouble; watering in dry weather conditions will be sufficient. Their roots will continue to grow until the onset of stable frosts, which means that such a tree will grow earlier in the spring.
Figure 4. Rules for planting fruit crops in autumn More often autumn procedures practiced in the southern regions, where young plants are not at risk of hypothermia due to mild winters. However, you should remember the vagaries of nature and understand the risk to the growth of autumn plantings. Severe frosts and wind, ice and snowfalls can not only damage seedlings, but also completely destroy them. Therefore, experts advise not to plant fruit crops such as pear, apple, plum, apricot, peach, sweet cherry, almond and cherry in the fall.
Deadlines
The optimal time for autumn planting is the end of September - October, and in the southern regions - from October to mid-November. However, you should know that these terms are quite arbitrary, since they depend on weather conditions.
Therefore, it is still better to navigate by the condition of the seedlings. The best time for planting there is a dormant period that occurs after the end of leaf fall.
Gardens are laid in areas with different topography, groundwater levels and light levels. However, there are certain rules that must be followed when planting a garden, regardless of its location.
It must be remembered that improperly planted trees do not take root and grow well, which can lead to their death.
Rules
Planting of fruit and berry trees is carried out in accordance with certain rules, which not only ensure the survival of plants, but also improve the volume of fruiting in the future.
The basic rules for planting fruit and berry crops include several important points(Figure 5):
- The pits must be prepared two weeks before the planned planting. Moreover, their size depends on the quality of the soil, but should not be less than 50-60 cm in depth and width.
- When digging holes, the soil is laid out in two parts: the upper fertile layer and the lower, less fertile layer, separately. The bottom layer is enriched with nutrients by adding compost to it. The use of manure for this purpose is not recommended, since even in a rotted state it can damage the bare roots of plants.
- The bottom of the hole must be loosened to improve air access to the roots of the plant. If the soil is sandy, then a 15 cm thick layer of clay is placed at the bottom of the hole, which will retain the necessary moisture.
- A few days before planting, the pits are filled with fertilizers (2-4 buckets of humus, phosphorus - 200 g, potassium chloride - 100 g, wood ash- 1 kg per hole measuring 60-100 cm). All fertilizers are mixed with the soil, which is intended for filling the hole. If the hole was dug and filled in the fall, then this work is not carried out in the spring.
- Before placing the seedling, a stake 5-6 cm thick and 1.3-1.5 m high on the leeward side must be driven into the center of the hole.
- Planting material must be carefully inspected, all damaged or diseased branches and roots must be trimmed.
- You can keep the seedling in a container with water for 1-2 days so that its root system accumulates a sufficient amount of moisture for rapid establishment. It is also recommended to dip the root in a mixture of clay and manure (clay, mullein, water in a ratio of 1:2:5), which will ensure good contact of the roots with the soil.
Figure 5. Features of planting fruit and berry trees Immediately before planting, a mound of soil filled with fertilizer is poured onto the bottom of the hole, then a seedling is placed on it on the north side of the stake and the roots are straightened. The hole is covered with a fertile layer of soil removed when digging the hole, compacting it and regularly shaking the seedling. This is done to ensure that voids do not form between the roots. Ultimately, the root collar of the seedling should be slightly higher than the soil level in the garden in order to be level with it after watering.
After planting, the soil is poured along the diameter of the hole with a small roller, and the circle itself is watered with 5-6 buckets of water. The tree itself must be tied to a stake.
The tree trunk circle should be mulched with organic material to prevent the formation of surface crust and help retain moisture.
Peculiarities
When choosing seedlings, it is useful to know their age, because this significantly affects the survival rate of the trees. For example, apple and pear seedlings should be 2-3 years old, and cherry and plum seedlings should be 2 years old. When deciding on varieties, listen to the advice of experienced gardeners.
Note: Place plants in the garden in rows at a certain distance from each other. So, pears and apple trees are planted at a distance of 6-8 meters, and cherries and plums - at a distance of 3 meters between tall fruit trees and 3-4 meters between rows. You can also occupy the rows with currant or gooseberry bushes. It will be great if the rows of the garden are located from east to west. This way they are better illuminated by the sun in the morning.
To mark out a plot for a garden, you first need to draw a plan of it, where to provide boundaries and the location of rows, paths and flower beds (Figure 6). On the ground, the breakdown is carried out using a rope, tape measure and pegs. The rope is needed to determine and mark the distances that will be observed during planting. It is stretched along the future row, and with the help of knots or scraps of fabric you mark the planting sites. Here you need to ensure that the rows are even. It is not only beautiful, but also easy to clean.
Figure 6. Scheme for placing trees and shrubs It is recommended to tie the planted trees to stakes to protect them from excessive swaying. To do this, use an ordinary washcloth, which must be secured to a figure-eight support so that the seedling does not damage its tender young bark on the stake.
In addition, after planting the tree, you need to trim its branches. In this case, strong shoots must be shortened by half, and weak ones - a little less. As a result of pruning, the ends of the skeletal branches should end in the same horizontal plane. The central shoot is cut so that it is 20-30 cm higher than all the others. Both lateral and central branches are cut above the outer bud.
Planting of shrubs can be done both in spring and autumn. All work begins in the spring after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed, and in the fall - before the onset of frost.
Rules
Planting shrubs, just like planting trees, is carried out according to certain rules (Figure 7). First of all, they start with preparing the soil and planting material, and also determine the compatibility of the soil and the selected plants. If the soil does not meet the requirements of a particular shrub, it is necessary to carry out a set of agrotechnical measures to improve the soil.
Shrubs are planted in specially prepared holes, the depth of which must correspond to the height of the plant’s root system. In this case, you should pay attention to the level of groundwater. If they come too close to the soil surface, the planting hole should be 15-20 cm deeper than the standard one to allow for drainage. A layer of soil is poured at the bottom of the hole, then a bush is planted.
Note: It is necessary to ensure that during planting the roots of the plant are straightened and covered with soil. It is recommended to fill the hole with the seedling 5-10 cm higher general level soil, however, the root collar should not be buried in the soil.
The planted plant must be watered, possibly with the addition of growth stimulants. Further care consists of feeding, watering and trimming the branches.
Peculiarities
Planting of shrubs in the fall is carried out taking into account the characteristics of certain species. Thus, there is no need to prepare special holes for raspberries, since their annual seedlings are planted in fertilized soil under a shovel. But for currants and gooseberries, shallow holes are needed. These plants are best planted when they are two years old.
Before moving into the ground, branches of shrubs must be cut so that their length from the roots is from 25 to 30 cm. This procedure will help reduce evaporation, and in currants and gooseberries it will stimulate branching of the bush. Before planting, it is recommended to dip the root system of the bushes in soil or clay mash to protect it from drying out.
Figure 7. Features of planting shrubs The rows of bushes are marked using a rope, placing them parallel to the rows of trees in the spaces between the rows. If the planting of shrubs is located separately, then the distance between the rows and in them is one and a half meters. The exception is raspberries, which can be planted at intervals of 70-80 cm. The soil around the planted plants must be compacted and watered at the rate of 1 bucket of water per 4-5 seedlings. After absorbing moisture, you can mulch the planting circle with peat or humus.
Note: It is important to know that raspberry bushes should not be planted deeper than in the mother area. But currant and gooseberry seedlings, on the contrary, need to be planted deeper than before. This way they can develop additional roots and grow better.
As for strawberries and strawberries, these plants are planted in a slightly different way, since they are herbaceous. So, it is best to plant strawberries from the end of July to the beginning of September, because late planting will not allow the plant to take root well before the arrival of winter. It is practiced to plant strawberries between the rows of fruit trees or in a separate area. In this case, strawberries are planted in rows, maintaining an interval of 20-25 cm between bushes and rows. After every three rows, it is recommended to leave a half-meter wide passage. If there is not enough space, you can plant strawberries in the rows of fruit trees or berry bushes at a distance of one and a half meters from them. With this planting, the plants are arranged in a row with an interval of 25-30 cm. It is important to ensure that the apical bud of the strawberry is not covered with soil. Watering rate is 1 bucket for 15-20 plants. To ensure that moisture is retained longer and the surface layer of soil is not covered with crust, it is recommended to mulch the plantings with fine manure or peat.
Where to plant shrubs on the site
The undeniable advantage of shrubs is the fact that they not only provide tasty and healthy berries, but can also serve as a wonderful hedge. The choice of location on the site for planting shrubs is carried out specifically for each species. For example, currants prefer moist and well-lit places (between two fruit trees, near a fence or the wall of a house). But rosehip does not tolerate too moist and saline soil; it loves light and warmth.
Gooseberries are also afraid of excess moisture, but they tolerate short-term drought well. So, the choice of a permanent place for planting berry bushes should be taken seriously, since the bushes grow quickly, and replanting a large plant is much more difficult.
Planting types
There are several types of planting shrubs:
- Tree and shrub group;
- Alley;
- Hedge.
The tree and shrub group combines several species of plants (both trees and shrubs), separately located on the site. For this type of planting, plants with similar agrotechnical conditions and compatibility with each other in crown shape, flowering time, etc. are selected.
An alley is a group of tall shrubs arranged in a row at equal distances from each other, for example, along a garden path.
If you plant shrubs in one line so that their crowns meet, you can get a hedge that looks much more aesthetically pleasing than any fence.
Planting shrubs in autumn
Most often, autumn planting of shrubs is practiced in the central zone of our country, including the Moscow region. At this time, you can plant the following berry bushes: white, red and black currants, chokeberries, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn.
As a rule, autumn planting begins in mid-September, when the life processes of the plant slow down.
Landing dates
In central Russia, autumn planting of shrubs takes place from mid-September to almost the end of October. In the northern regions, planting dates end in early October, and in the southern regions, on the contrary, the planting dates are extended until the second ten days of November.
Figure 8. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs However, the main indicator of the most optimal time for autumn planting is the onset of the plant's dormant period. It can be determined by the end of leaf fall. It is important to know that seedlings dug up before the beginning of the period of biological dormancy freeze in winter, primarily due to immature shoots.
Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs when planting
Experienced gardeners have long noticed that some fruit trees and shrubs feel uncomfortable next to other plants or, on the contrary, successfully coexist with them. In the first case, the roots of the plants may be at the same depth and interfere with each other. A situation occurs when one of the plants releases substances into the soil that inhibit the development of others. Therefore, when planning to plant fruit and berry plants, do not be too lazy to look at the table of their compatibility (Figure 8).
For example, apple trees can get along with almost any garden crop, except rowan. Red and black currants do not tolerate proximity to each other and to raspberries, since their root system inhibits the neighboring plant. For this reason, it is recommended to plant raspberries in a separate area. Gooseberries cannot coexist with black currants, and they are not friendly with raspberries.
You will find more information about the compatibility of fruit and berry crops in the video.
Distance to the border when planting fruit trees
When planting fruit trees on your site, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the legislative acts of tree planting in order to maintain good neighborly relations. Thus, the standards stipulate that the distance from a perennial plant to the border of the site should be at least 3 meters for short trees.
The larger the diameter of the crown, the greater this distance becomes, because neighbors can rightfully remove tree branches and roots extending beyond the boundaries of your site without your consent. Bushes can be planted at a distance of 1 meter from the border, and plums, peaches, cherries - 2 meters.
Seed propagation in the garden strawberries we are accustomed to, unfortunately, leads to the appearance of less productive plants and weaker bushes. But another type of these sweet berries, alpine strawberries, can be successfully grown from seeds. Let's learn about the main advantages and disadvantages of this crop, consider the main varieties and features of agricultural technology. The information presented in this article will help you decide whether it is worth allocating a place for it in the berry garden.
Often, when we see a beautiful flower, we instinctively bend down to smell its fragrance. All fragrant flowers can be divided into two large groups: nocturnal (pollinated by moths) and daytime, whose pollinators are mainly bees. Both groups of plants are important for the florist and designer, because we often walk around the garden during the day and relax in our favorite corners when evening comes. We are never overwhelmed by the scent of our favorite fragrant flowers.
Many gardeners consider pumpkin to be the queen of garden beds. And not only because of its size, variety of shapes and colors, but also for its excellent taste, healthy qualities and rich harvest. Pumpkin contains a large amount of carotene, iron, various vitamins and minerals. Thanks to the possibility of long-term storage, this vegetable supports our health all year round. If you decide to plant a pumpkin on your plot, you will be interested in learning how to get the largest possible harvest.
Scotch eggs - incredibly delicious! Try to prepare this dish at home, there is nothing difficult in preparation. Scotch eggs are a hard-boiled egg wrapped in minced meat, breaded in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep-fried. For frying, you will need a frying pan with a high side, and if you have a deep fryer, then that’s just great - even less hassle. You will also need oil for frying so as not to smoke in the kitchen. Choose farm eggs for this recipe.
One of the most amazing large-flowered tubs of Dominican Cubanola fully justifies its status as a tropical miracle. Warm-loving, slow-growing, with huge and in many ways unique bells of flowers, Cubanola is a fragrant star with a complex character. It requires special conditions in the rooms. But for those who are looking for exclusive plants for their interior, a better (and more chocolatey) candidate for the role of indoor giant cannot be found.
Chickpea curry with meat is a hearty hot dish for lunch or dinner, inspired by Indian cuisine. This curry is quick to prepare but requires some prep. The chickpeas must first be soaked in plenty of cold water for several hours, preferably overnight; the water can be changed several times. It is also better to leave the meat overnight in the marinade so that it turns out juicy and tender. Then you should boil the chickpeas until tender and then prepare the curry according to the recipe.
Rhubarb can not be found on everyone garden plot. It's a pity. This plant is a storehouse of vitamins and can be widely used in cooking. What is not prepared from rhubarb: soups and cabbage soup, salads, delicious jam, kvass, compotes and juices, candied fruits and marmalade, and even wine. But that's not all! The large green or red rosette of leaves of the plant, reminiscent of burdock, acts as a beautiful background for annuals. It is not surprising that rhubarb can also be seen in flower beds.
Today, the trend is to experiment with unusual combinations and non-standard colors in the garden. For example, plants with black inflorescences have become very fashionable. All black flowers are original and specific, and it is important for them to be able to select suitable partners and location. Therefore, this article will not only introduce you to an assortment of plants with slate-black inflorescences, but will also teach you the intricacies of using such mystical plants in garden design.
3 delicious sandwiches - a cucumber sandwich, a chicken sandwich, a cabbage and meat sandwich - a great idea for a quick snack or for an outdoor picnic. Just fresh vegetables, juicy chicken and cream cheese and a little seasoning. There are no onions in these sandwiches; if you wish, you can add onions marinated in balsamic vinegar to any of the sandwiches; this will not spoil the taste. Having quickly prepared snacks, all that remains is to pack a picnic basket and head to the nearest green lawn.
Depending on the varietal group, the age of seedlings suitable for planting in open ground is: for early tomatoes - 45-50 days, average ripening - 55-60 and late ripening - at least 70 days. When planting tomato seedlings at a younger age, the period of its adaptation to new conditions is significantly extended. But success in obtaining a high-quality tomato harvest also depends on carefully following the basic rules for planting seedlings in open ground.
Unpretentious “background” plants of sansevieria do not seem boring to those who value minimalism. They are better suited than other indoor decorative foliage stars for collections that require minimal care. Stable decorativeness and extreme hardiness in only one species of sansevieria are also combined with compactness and very rapid growth - rosette sansevieria Hana. The squat rosettes of their tough leaves create striking clusters and patterns.
One of the brightest months of the garden calendar pleasantly surprises with the balanced distribution of favorable and unfavorable days for working with plants according to the lunar calendar. Vegetable gardening in June can be done throughout the entire month, while the unfavorable periods are very short and still allow you to do it useful work. There will be optimal days for sowing and planting, for pruning, for a pond, and even for construction work.
Meat with mushrooms in a frying pan is an inexpensive hot dish that is suitable for a regular lunch and for a holiday menu. Pork will cook quickly, veal and chicken too, so this is the preferred meat for the recipe. Mushrooms - fresh champignons, in my opinion, are the best choice for homemade stew. Forest gold - boletus mushrooms, boletus and other delicacies is best prepared for the winter. Boiled rice or mashed potatoes are ideal as a side dish.
I love ornamental shrubs, especially unpretentious ones and with interesting, non-trivial foliage colors. I have various Japanese spirea, Thunberg barberries, black elderberry... And there is one special shrub, which I will tell you about in this article - viburnum leaf. To fulfill my dream of a low-maintenance garden, it is perhaps ideal. At the same time, it is capable of greatly diversifying the picture in the garden, from spring to autumn.
It is rare that the owner of a private house prefers not to plant fruit trees on his property. Everyone usually wants to have an orchard - in the spring, trees delight with beautiful blooms and aroma, and fruits and berries from your own garden always seem much tastier than those bought in a store or at the market, and besides, you know that these are environmentally friendly products. In the art of Feng Shui, the image of a blooming orchard is a symbol of abundance and prosperity. Planning a garden is a responsible matter; their growth and ability to bear fruit will depend on how correctly you plant the trees, so this task must be treated with great attention.
If you also want to grow vegetables in your garden, the layout of the garden and vegetable garden should be considered together. It is better to allocate space for the beds at the southern border, from north to south, this is better for crops growing in the middle zone. Some gardeners recommend placing beds from east to west. Behind the vegetable and strawberry (strawberry) beds there are fruit bushes - currants, gooseberries. Trees are planted behind the bushes; light shade from trees will not harm berry bushes, and vegetable beds should be in the sun.
An example of the design of vegetable beds - they do not have to be square or rectangular in shape, original beds resemble flower beds
Before you start planning your garden, you need to take into account the following important factors:
- What size is the area Can be allocated for an orchard. For trees with spreading crowns, a distance of 4 sq.m. will be required.
- Terrain. For an orchard, flat terrain or a gentle slope would be ideal; cold air and excess moisture are retained in the depressions; these areas are unfavorable for fruit trees.
- Soil analysis of your site. Fruit crops have a powerful root system; the soil must be fertile to provide it with good nutrition. Rocky, clayey, sandy soil is not suitable for a garden. The proximity of groundwater has a negative effect on tree growth.
- Availability of heat and light. For most fruit trees, it is important to have plenty of light and heat; in the shade they grow and bear fruit much worse. It should also be said about areas with constant strong wind - the wind interferes with normal pollination, dries out the soil, often damages crops and breaks tree branches. A high fence or green spaces can partially protect from winds.
Planning begins with a diagram on paper. If there is already a house on the site, you need to start planning from there. A scale diagram of the site, the contours of the house and other buildings, as well as places where trees already grow, are drawn on paper.
This area is protected from the wind by trees planted around it, which have already grown enough to provide protection
If the site has not yet been developed, the location for building a house is marked on the diagram. The layout of the garden on the site assumes the presence of a front garden. The house should face the street, leaving a strip of land in front of it for the front garden. Its size depends on the area of the plot - for some it is only a meter, for others it is 6-8 meters. In a small front garden, flowers, raspberries and berry bushes are usually planted, in a large one - ornamental trees, flowers or several fruit trees at the discretion of the owners.
For large fruit trees - apple trees, pears, allocate a place in the north-eastern side of the site, between them and fruit and berry bushes - a place for smaller trees - cherries, plums.
An example of the layout of a garden and vegetable garden - the plot is divided into two parts. In the first half there is a house surrounded by a front garden and vegetable beds, the second half is an orchard with trees planted in rows
In general, it will be convenient to draw a plan of the site, mark on it all the existing buildings, the expected location of the garden and vegetable garden. On the site you need to mark holes for planting trees. Try to plant trees at a distance so that as they grow they do not shade each other. Clumped bushes and trees in the garden do not grow well; in addition, conditions are created for diseases garden crops. Fruit trees have a powerful root system and must develop freely.
Advice. If your site is overgrown with wild bushes, there are stumps on it that need to be uprooted, do the necessary work and burn the woody debris. Collect the ash in a dry place; it will be useful when creating fertile beds.
Usually, the layout of an orchard involves planting trees in such a way that they do not shade the neighbors’ plots, but there are often cases when a tree grows right next to the fence, providing fruit to both owners and neighbors, and no one has any complaints.
Today it is fashionable to give the beds an original shape, for example, a pizza garden. The highlight is that from the round bed in the center the rest ray out like slices of pizza, forming a circle
Raspberries, blackberries or berry bushes are usually planted at the borders of the site, which bear fruit well even in the shade.
Landscape and regular planning
Below we give examples of garden layouts for those who like order and clarity of form and for those who like it when the plants in the orchard are planted according to the same pattern, but create the impression of natural areas.
Landscape planning involves the arrangement of trees and other crops in a free order, close to natural. In such a garden, in addition to fruit crops, decorative crops are also widely used.
An example of a free garden layout - vegetable beds on the left and top, fruit trees planted in groups in the center and on the right
With regular planning, trees and shrubs, as well as vegetables in the garden, are planted in strict rows at the same distance. The planting pattern also has a strict geometric shape - a square for areas whose length and width are almost equal, and a rectangle for areas whose length is much greater than the width.
An example of a regular layout of a garden with a vegetable garden - clear geometry, the area is divided into regular squares, rectangles, plants are planted in rows
Where are the best crops to plant?
These are trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in your latitudes. For the middle zone, these are pears, apple trees (it is advisable to plant several trees of different varieties), different varieties of plums and cherry plums, and cherries. Cherries and apricots will ripen in warm latitudes. Berry bushes - all varieties of currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. If the area of the plot is small, it is convenient to place shrubs around the perimeter.
If you plant several apple trees, including summer, autumn and winter apple trees, the fruits will delight you at different times of the year
An example of an interesting layout of a vegetable garden - paths diverge from a square of slabs in the center, between which there are beds, with different crops planted on each of the beds. Feel free to approach any of them
In vegetable beds nearby, you need to plant crops that grow well in close proximity to each other:
- cabbage, cucumbers, peas;
- white cabbage, dill, potatoes, onions, lettuce, celery;
- tomatoes, peas, carrots;
- horseradish, potatoes, beans, onions, cabbage.
When you draw a diagram, decide which plants to plant and in what quantity, you can begin marking the garden on the ground, buy seedlings and prepare the soil.
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