Madame du Barry cream soup. Dubarry cream soup (French cuisine)

AND history of soup as old as the history of cooking. Over the long centuries of its existence, the most popular liquid dish has developed and modified in accordance with national tastes and local ingredients. Today, as Wikipedia points out, there are approximately 150 types of soups, which are divided into more than a thousand types. In the endless series of names, you can also find personalized soups named after famous personalities.

Leopold's soup

The second course consisted of soups, also of different varieties and tastes: noodle soup, soup with red and radzynki (Sarachin millet and raisins) and many others, including a historical soup, called “Leopold’s soup”, the invention of some margrave The Roman Empire, but I don’t know which one. The curious can probably find out from the historical reviews of critics and the debates of pundits. Grigory Kvitka-Osnovyanenko, “Pan Khalyavsky” (1840)

R alone Leopold soup is Austria. There is a legend that this soup was invented by the cook of the Austrian Margrave Leopold (another version calls the cook of the Holy Roman Emperor Leopold I). The appearance of the personalized soup was facilitated by the limited food supply in the margrave’s kitchen. Then the country was going through difficult times, and in order to somehow diversify the menu, the chef came up with a soup made from... semolina. Surprisingly, the unusual dish was to the taste of both Leopold and his courtiers. The culinary experiment was not lost over the centuries and became the property of German and Austrian cuisines.


Ingredients
:

  • 50 g semolina
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
  • 1l chicken broth
  • 50 ml cream
  • nutmeg, salt and pepper
  • a few lettuce leaves, parsley

Fry semolina until light brown. At the end of frying, add the onion. Pour in boiling broth and simmer over low heat for half an hour. Add nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Cut the salad into thin strips, arrange on plates, and pour over the soup. Add cream to taste and garnish with parsley.

Soup “Yokai”

Asole soup “Yokai” got its name in honor of the classic of Hungarian literature Mora Jokai (1825 – 1904). A popular novelist and one of the most influential figures in Hungarian literature of the 19th century, he wrote more than 110 novels, short stories, plays and poems during his long creative life. The most famous in his legacy are “The Hungarian Nabob”, “Zoltan Karpati”, “Sons of a Man with a Heart of Stone”, “Nameless Castle”, “Golden Man”. His short story “Saffy” formed the basis for Johann Strauss’ operetta “The Gypsy Baron”.

In his homeland, Mor Yokai is known not only as a literary classic, but also as a refined connoisseur of good cuisine. Jokai's wife, the famous dramatic actress Róza Benke Laborfalvi, loved to cook and often spoiled her husband and his guests with hearty and gourmet dinners. One of Mora Yokai's favorite dishes was bean soup prepared according to a special recipe. It was this soup that received the writer’s name.

Yokai soup recipe taken from “ Small Hungarian cookbook” Karoly Gundel - the founder of Magyar cooking. His cookbook became a bestseller and went through 40 reprints in 20 languages.

Yokai Soup Ingredients

  • 180 gr. beans
  • 300 gr. smoked sausage
  • smoked pork leg - 1 pc.
  • 1 medium onion
  • 3 gr. paprika
  • 3 tbsp. pork fat
  • 1-2 carrots
  • 1 tomato
  • 150 gr. green pepper
  • 150 gr. sour cream
  • 1 tbsp. spoon of flour
  • Parsley root, bay leaf
  • Garlic to taste
  • 30 gr. chipette (homemade soup dough)

Rinse the beans thoroughly and soak them the night before. Pour about 1.5 liters of water over the pork leg and cook until it becomes completely soft.
The next day, remove the fat from the surface of the broth in which the leg was cooked and fry it in it.
carrots and parsley root cut into slices. Add the beans (along with the water in which they were soaked) and the broth in which the pork leg was cooked. Season with bay leaf, a little garlic, finely chopped green pepper and tomato and cook with the lid closed. As a rule, there is no need to add salt, because... The smoked pork broth is very salty.
Fry the sausage and cut it into thin slices. Make a white dressing in the fat from the sausage, add finely chopped onion and, at the last moment, paprika. Pour the dressing into the soup when the beans in the soup are soft.
Mix sour cream with a spoonful of flour and add to the soup, then add chepette and sausage slices. Let it boil again.
Before serving the soup, cut the meat from the pork leg into small cubes and place on plates.
If the soup turns out to be too sour, you can add a little sugar to it.

Chipetke (homemade soup dough)

80 grams of flour, 1 egg, salt.

Mix flour, eggs and salt (without water) into a stiff dough. Roll it out on a floured board into a sheet about 1 mm thick, then pinch off shapeless pieces about the size of a fingernail from it with floured hands. Cook these pieces in boiling soup. When the chipettes are ready (after 3-4 minutes), they float to the surface.

The name of the test “chipetke” comes from the Hungarian word “chipkedni”, which means to pinch.

Cream soup “Dubarri”

Thick puree soups are a characteristic feature of French cuisine. They are prepared from almost all known vegetables, often adding milk or cream (cream soup). The French especially love the amazingly tender and silky cauliflower soup “Dubarri”, which received its name in honor of the favorite of Louis XV.

Illegitimate, Marie-Jeanne Becu, who came from the very bottom, was able to make an amazing “career”, going from a prostitute to the official mistress of the king. Louis admitted that she was “the only woman in France who managed to make me forget her age and her troubles. She taught me things I didn't even know I could do." Having received the title of Countess DuBarry thanks to her marriage to one of the king's close associates, Marie-Jeanne firmly established herself at court. But at the pinnacle of fame and wealth she was destined to live only 5 years. After the death of the crowned lover, DuBarry was sent into honorable exile. She was only 28 years old at that time. But the most terrible test awaited the brilliant favorite ahead. 20 years later, she met her death by guillotine during the revolution of 1793, like many other aristocrats.

Her last words were " Just a minute, Mister Executioner!”

The amazing fate of the king's mistress formed the basis of many literary works, films and even one musical (Col Porter, Dubarry Was A Lady, 1939). And in cooking, her name was immortalized by cauliflower soup, which, according to legend, she loved very much.

Dubarry cream soup ingredients

  • 1 head of medium sized cauliflower
  • 1 leek (white part only)
  • 70 g flour
  • 100 g butter
  • 100 ml cream
  • Salt, pepper to taste

Separate the cauliflower into florets and finely chop the leeks. Melt the butter in a saucepan and fry the leek until soft, stirring constantly to prevent it from browning. Add flour, mix well and pour in 1.5 liters of water. After the water boils, add the cabbage florets and cook until completely soft over low heat. Remove the pan from the heat. Add salt and pepper to taste, add cream and use a blender to bring the soup to a smooth puree. Serve the cream soup hot, garnished with parsley leaves.

Cream soup “Renoir”

Few people know that during his long creative life he painted about 1900(!) still lifes, many of which were included in the golden fund of world painting. These include the painting “Fruits in a Vase in the Shape of a Shell” (1881). Among the variety of fruits presented, the violet-blue eggplant, which enjoys special honor in the cuisine of Provence, takes pride of place. It is the main ingredient in the Renoir cream soup, named after the artist.

Ingredients for Renoir cream soup


300 g eggplant
1 cup vegetable broth
150 ml cream
30 grams of soft cream cheese (mascarpone, Philadelphia, Almette, etc.)
4 cloves garlic
1 tomato
1 onion
1 teaspoon herbs de Provence seasoning
Salt, ground red pepper to taste

P Peel the eggplants, cut into small cubes and leave in salted water for 15 minutes. Scald the tomato with boiling water, remove the skin, cut into 4 parts. Wrap the tomato and garlic in foil and bake in the oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes.
Fry the onion, cut into small pieces, in a saucepan in refined olive or sunflower oil until golden brown.
Squeeze the eggplants, add to the onions, pour in a glass of vegetable broth, and simmer over low heat with Provençal herbs for 10 minutes. under a closed lid.
Remove the eggplants from the heat, add the tomato and garlic and blend the whole mass in a blender. Add soft cheese, heated cream, salt, pepper to the resulting puree soup and beat again until smooth.

I came across Cream DuBarry soup (more precisely, Creme DuBarry) in a very interesting source - in a manual for Soviet culinary specialists on how some dishes should be called in a new way, without any of these French lordly quirks. So, this dish was translated from bourgeois Russian to Soviet Russian as “Grated cauliflower soup.” Comrades, this is a classic cauliflower soup!!! Which is already more than two centuries old. Of course, I was interested to try what the favorite of the King of France pampered herself with there! To you too? Then let's make Dubarry soup.

There is nothing complicated with our kitchen appliances; we can do without cooks. No, well, with cooks, of course, it would be cooler... and with a majordomo... and with a couple of lackeys of some kind... bring a tureen in white gloves, open the lid, pour it into a plate with a ladle... but to taste All this, I think, does not affect solely self-esteem!

Cut green onions.

Over low heat (the French source emphasizes at every step that browning should never be allowed!) simmer the green onions in butter until softened.

Add flour, rub thoroughly with a spatula, brew over low heat, avoiding darkening.

We begin to pour in the broth while constantly rubbing with a spatula. First, pour in small portions, then gradually increase the amount of broth. Stir each new portion until completely homogeneous. We keep the fire so as to prevent darkening.

Add the cauliflower and cook the soup for 40 minutes over low heat, covered, until the cabbage is completely softened.

At the next stage, this soup used to be strained through a special metal sieve. But we puree it either with a mixer or a food processor, that's all. In this case, however, the onion will also be chopped. In the old version it was visible.

Next comes a very interesting thing! Two egg yolks are stirred into the crème fraîche. Well, or in very heavy cream, if you don’t have that crème fraîche. Normal Russian sour cream will not work here, it is too sour. Well, technologically its production is also different from the French product.

And this cream of yolks and creme fraiche is mixed into the puree soup, further thickening it. There is no longer any need to heat the soup, just stir in the yolk mixture until completely dissolved - that’s all.

You should eat Dubarry cream soup right away, or let it wait for serving under the lid, but not for long. It forms foam very quickly, so don’t show it comme il faut to guests.


It is believed that this exquisite French soup was invented by Marie-Jeanne DuBarry to preserve the then fashionable pale skin tone. Now, fortunately, the presence or absence of a tan is a personal matter for each woman, and soup is just soup. But what!

Ingredients

  • Frozen cauliflower - 300 g;
  • leek - 1 piece;
  • water - 300 ml;
  • onion - 1 piece;
  • celery stalk - ½ piece;
  • carrots - ½ piece;
  • smoked bacon - 70 g;
  • thyme - 1 sprig;
  • bay leaf - 1 pc;
  • milk - 100 ml;
  • cream 10% - 50 ml;
  • butter - 50 g;
  • vegetable oil - 70 ml;
  • flour - 30 g;
  • baguette - 150 g;
  • parsley - 20 g;
  • black pepper - to taste;
  • salt - to taste.

Recipe

1. Prepare the broth: chop the onion, carrots and celery, put it in a saucepan, fill it with cold water and put it on the stove. Add a piece of bacon or pork belly to the vegetables - this will add piquancy to the soup.

2. Season the broth with thyme and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer.

3. Prepare onion rings for decoration. Cut the onion into thin rings, roll in flour and fry until golden brown. Place on a paper towel and set aside.

4. Cut the leek into rings and fry in a saucepan in butter over low heat. Then add the cauliflower florets to the pan.

5. Immediately pour in a small amount of strained broth and milk, cook for 10-15 minutes. As soon as the cabbage becomes soft, remove from the stove and puree with a blender. Add salt, then return to the stove and add hot cream. Warm up a little and puree again.

6. Serve the soup with croutons: cut the baguette into pieces and fry in a dry frying pan, pouring a small amount of olive oil on top. Decorate the plate with onion chips and finely chopped parsley.

CREAM CAULIFLOWER SOUP

The recipe for this soup is attributed to Countess DuBarry, the favorite of King Louis XV. They say that it was she who made the French court happy with her introduction to cauliflower. Apparently, Madame knew a lot about cooking.

From the Le Cordon Bleu collection

Products for 4 servings:
small head of cauliflower (approximately 400 g)
15 g unsalted butter
small onion
white part of a small leek
15 g flour
750 ml milk
salt, pepper, nutmeg

To submit:
ghee or vegetable oil
4 slices bread, cut into cubes
50 ml heavy cream
fresh herbs (thyme or parsley)

1. Cut the cauliflower into pieces and set aside 100 g. Place the remaining cabbage (300 g) in a wide saucepan and add water (100 ml) so that the cabbage is completely covered. If there is not enough water, add milk. Place on fire and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for about 7 minutes or until cabbage is tender. Beat the cabbage along with the liquid in which it was cooked in a food processor or blender until smooth.

2. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add finely chopped onion and leeks cut into thin rings. Cover with a lid and simmer over low heat until the onion is translucent and completely softened. Sprinkle with flour, stirring over heat until lightly creamy. Remove from heat, pour in the remaining milk and mix thoroughly. Return the pan to the heat and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil. Add pureed cabbage to the pan, season with spices to taste. Remove from heat and cover with a lid.

3. Disassemble the remaining buds (100 g) into inflorescences. Bring salted water to a boil in a small saucepan, add cabbage (100 g) and cook for about 2 minutes. Remove and place in cold water, then set aside.

4. Cut the bread slices into cubes and fry in heated ghee or vegetable oil until golden brown. Place on paper towels and lightly salt.

5. Before serving, heat the soup (if too thick, add cream). Whip some heavy cream. Pour the soup into bowls, add cabbage florets, whipped cream, and croutons. Garnish with fresh herbs.

I swapped the order of actions a little, that is, first I boiled the small inflorescences, prepared the croutons (crackers) and only then started working on the soup itself. It was more convenient for me. And one more change I made - first I added only part of the milk to the pan with sautéed onions, beat everything with a blender, then added pureed cauliflower, the remaining milk, and then continued according to the recipe.

The most delicate creamy texture, juicy cabbage inflorescences that have retained their shape, croutons that melt in your mouth - soup harmony. Thank you Madame DuBarry, I made you happy. Try it too!

Sometimes the menu of our virtual tavern includes very unusual dishes, such as this one - Dubarry Cream. An original and tasty dish of French cuisine with a sad history. Actually, on my own Dubarry soup(more precisely, puree soup) consists of cauliflower inflorescences boiled in milk and then pureed and sautéed chopped leeks. When serving, small cauliflower inflorescences, parsley leaves and a little red caviar, boiled until al dente (with a slight crunch), are added to the soup.

This is about the soup itself. And the sad story is about its author - Countess DuBarry. Despite her noble title, this lady, whose maiden name was Marie Jeanne Becu, is a commoner. It is known that in her youth she worked in an ancient profession, then she ended up at the court of Count DuBarry, where she was noticed by the loving monarch of France Louis XV, who then married this girl to the brother of Count DuBarry. It goes without saying that after this Countess DuBarry was presented to the court of the monarch, where she very soon turned out to be his favorite. Well, then everything is sad - Louis XV died, the countess ended up behind bars, after a while she was released, but during the revolution she was still executed. A curious and piquant detail is that the executioner who executed the countess had a relationship with her before she became a countess.

We will need:

  • - cauliflower - 1 fork,
  • - leek - 1 stalk,
  • - milk - 0.5 l,
  • - chicken broth - 0.5 l,
  • - butter - 100 g,
  • - cream 10% - 100 g,
  • - red caviar – 1 tbsp (optional),
  • - parsley - a few sprigs,
  • - ground black pepper - to taste,
  • - salt - to taste.
Rinse the cauliflower and separate into florets. Divide large inflorescences into smaller parts, leaving small ones as is. The question arises in my thoughts - what’s wrong with the stalk? In this case, nothing, but in Chinese cuisine you can grate it and add it to the minced meat for dumplings.

Pour water into a container of suitable volume, boil and add salt. Select a handful of small inflorescences and boil them for literally 1 minute in boiling water, then quickly remove, rinse with cold water and place in a container with water and ice. They will be needed a little later. The small florets should retain their crispness.

Rinse the leek trunk, separate the white part from the green part, it is the white part that we will need in the future. First cut the trunk in half lengthwise, then each half again in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into pieces of about 0.5 cm.

Heat the butter in a frying pan or saucepan over medium heat, place the chopped leeks in the pan and, stirring, fry the onions until softened. At the same time, you need to watch so that the onions do not start to fry. This will affect the color of the soup and its taste.

If the onions were fried in a saucepan, then you can continue cooking the soup in it, but if the process continues in a saucepan, then transfer the sautéed onions into the saucepan, add milk and bring the milk almost to a boil over medium heat. Add the remaining cauliflower to the pan, reduce the heat to low and cook the cabbage and sauteed onion in milk for 5 minutes. The milk should gurgle slightly.
Then add the hot chicken broth to the pan and continue to simmer the soup for another 15 minutes or until the cauliflower is completely tender.


After this, remove the pan from the heat. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add finely chopped parsley (leaves only) and cream. Pour the soup from the pot into a blender with a jug. There are such kitchen devices for making pureed soups, smoothies, etc. You can use other methods if you don’t have such a blender. For example, separate the liquid from the vegetables and puree the vegetables in a regular blender, and then mix the liquid and vegetable puree in a saucepan and bring the soup to a boil. You can use an immersion blender directly in the pan, but still the best results come from a blender with a jug. Here, in fact, the cream soup is ready. Well, all that remains is to beautifully serve this tender and tasty soup on the table.

The soup is poured into a deep plate, a few parsley leaves, a handful of small blanched cauliflower inflorescences (we put it in a container with ice water at the very beginning) and a little red caviar are added. There was no red caviar in the Countess Duberry's original recipe. It was added later, as a reminder of the sad fate of the countess, who was executed by guillotine, and the red eggs symbolize drops of blood on the December snow at the execution site.

The soup is really very tender and tasty. The only negative is that it is stored for a very short time, no more than a day, and then in the refrigerator. In general, it is advisable to prepare the amount of this soup that you can consume at a time.

Sincerely, S. Zverev.

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