If there is an urgent need to replace pipes in your home, do not rush to call builders or mechanics. You can easily solve this problem yourself.

To do this, it is only important to understand the essence of the issue: which pipes to change and how to do it correctly.

How to replace old pipes

Copper pipes are the most durable, reliable and durable

There are various types of water pipes available on the market today:

• galvanized,
• steel pipes,
• copper pipes,
• combined metal-plastic,
• polypropylene pipes.

Of course, each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. They will be discussed below.

Professional mechanics and builders recommend choosing polypropylene, since it is easier to work with and its service life is much longer than that of metal. In addition, polypropylene pipes have a completely acceptable appearance, so sometimes you don’t even need to cover them. It is the installation of a system of polypropylene pipes that will be discussed further.

How to change pipes

The first step is to dismantle the old water supply system.

To do this, turn off the water supply and drain the water from the system. We dismantle the valves and plugs, cut or twist the old pipes leading to the riser. The tubes coming out of the riser are almost always clogged with silt, sand and debris. Corrosive deposits are likely to appear, which can only be removed with a hammer and chisel.

It is necessary to clean the pipes and riser. This will prevent contamination of the new pipes.

It is better to choose modern valves for pipes, with a flag system

New taps or valves are installed on the cleaned tubes. It is also recommended to install filters with a settling tank. This design is a Y-shaped branch, where one of the branches is a dead-end tank for collecting slag and sand. It is necessary to install the filter after the valve, so that in case of cleaning, the water supply must first be shut off.

In addition, it is important to install the filter with the tank down, otherwise it will be of little use. It is better to choose modern valves with a flag system. With this type of valve, the handle turns effortlessly, in only two positions. If the flag is across the pipe, the water is blocked, if along, the water flows freely.

We install polypropylene pipes

Pipe cutting is done with a special knife, which comes complete with a soldering iron.

Polypropylene pipes are mounted with a special soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

Before soldering, the pipes must be cut to the required size and, if the pipes have an outer shell or reinforcement, they must be cleaned.

Pipe cutting is done with a special knife, which comes complete with a soldering iron. You can also use a regular hacksaw for metal.

The pipe and fitting are placed on opposite sides of the soldering iron and heated to a temperature of about 250 degrees. This takes about 20 seconds, after which the pipe must be quickly but carefully inserted into the fitting and left to cool.

Please note that connecting the pipe and fitting requires some physical strength. This is fine. The pipe must be inserted into the fitting smoothly, without sudden jolts or rotations.

When the connection has cooled, you can begin soldering the next connection.

A special adapter is used to connect the threaded valve to a polypropylene pipe. Thanks to this, there is no need to change the entire riser system in the house.

Pipes can be mounted along the wall, fixing them with special holders, or buried in pre-prepared grooves. If you remove pipes inside the walls, remember that taps, valves and other important elements must be easily accessible for repair and maintenance.

The grooves with the pipes hidden in them are sealed with cement or glue for ceramic tiles.

Conclusion

So, the pipes were changed and, as you can see, it was not at all difficult. Once the system is fully assembled, all that remains is to lightly run water to make sure there are no leaks. If everything is in order, then you can start the system at full capacity and start using it. We hope that your work will bring you pleasure.

The old water supply in the apartment has rotted. Sweat on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water and then turn it on again - rust pours out of the taps. And there are plans to renovate the kitchen and bathroom, and the old pipes are scary to look at, let alone touch or breathe. It needs to be changed, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment water supply with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits or registrations. You will only need to negotiate with the DEZ mechanic to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; Most likely, you will be able to handle it in about 10 minutes. Or warn your neighbors, if not harmful, and shut it off/restart it yourself.

Replacement procedure

Replacement of the water supply system is carried out in a certain sequence. Work “by eye” and “as you go” when done unprofessionally often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

1. Selection of material for new pipes.
2. Selecting a hot and cold water distribution scheme.
3. Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
4. Calculation of pipe diameter according to the selected material and design.
5. Preparing the installation tool.
6. Purchase of materials.
7. Assembling sampling and accounting units, installing them on risers and registering.
8. Dismantling old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
9. Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
10. Connecting a flask filter (required with HMS).
11. Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
12. Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
13. Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
14. Installation and connection of the boiler.

GMS, flask filter and aquastop

The HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, transforms impurities in water into a thin suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply or maintenance during operation, but it does require the installation of an antimagnetic water meter (these are more expensive) and, following the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first collects sludge, the second removes chlorine, and the third carries out fine water purification and softening. The latter (no one drinks tap water for a long time) is especially important for the boiler of a washing machine.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - don’t be indignant, but drinking water remains firmly in the top ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs capable of bringing its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not expected. In general, saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply or maintenance, but its function is different. When there is a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. Aquastops come in different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an antimagnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new water supply system in an apartment begins with the selection of pipes. Steel has outlived its usefulness in everyday life, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and soldered copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most critical - the wrong choice will negate all efforts, expenses and hassle.

Copper

One thing you can say right away about copper water pipes is that their promoters don’t know what they’re talking about. Or they know, but don’t set it for themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, humans need copper, but in insignificant quantities in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper and chlorine form a protective film from water. Absurd for anyone who even remembers school chemistry.

Secondly, copper solder contains tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into another, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, friable powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly yourself.

Metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes are quite expensive, but you can connect them with your own hands without experience. Metal-plastic water supply is assembled on special threaded units with gaskets or crimp fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure losses in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert a pipe into a fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press pliers and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, the work is easy, and using improvised means is a complete guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time the joint begins to drip. Therefore, it is unacceptable to bury metal-plastic in walls, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in grooves.

It is recommended to install metal-plastic water pipes in separate open areas, where minimal resistance to water flow and the ability to simply and quickly repair the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment water supply has now become a standard, but there are different plastics. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Maintains temperature up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Quite expensive. Used for installing heated floors.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water supply you need polyethylene reinforced pipes; ordinary polyethylene no longer holds 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so there is still the possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the least of all.

It seems that polyethylene pipes are bad for everyone, but they have an advantage that can be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice plug bursts them apart, and when it melts, they shrink again and don’t burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of polyethylene water supply is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground areas. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is necessary.

PVC

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are quite well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very durable and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, are more fragile than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC is, of course, more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: by heating the joint with a household hairdryer, the joint can be pulled apart and then glued back together. In general, this is a budget option or for a novice craftsman, with the length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest water collection point no more than 10 m and with no more than 7 extraction points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying residential water supply pipes with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, correctly soldered holds up to 12 at. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but still the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. There are only two disadvantages to doing it yourself:

• It does not glue, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
• It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. A tile walled up in a wall or hidden in a groove can bend and break, so when laying each pipe you need to put on a stocking made of Merylon or synthetic padding, which makes the work more expensive.

However, today the propylene pipeline is the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten. Therefore, we will focus on soldering propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in lower temperature (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Soldering propylene

Soldering cut end-to-end with a homemade soldering iron (iron) (see figure on the right) is unacceptable:

1. Contaminants accumulate on the “sausage” inside, and a pipeline assembled in this way is more susceptible to clogging than a steel one.
2. The water pressure, pushing the pipes apart, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is exceeded, and the joint leaks.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out using fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), corners, tees, crosses. The pipe, heated to the point of softening, is inserted into the ferrule of the also heated fitting, and the joint hardens. In this case, the water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the holder from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing is left to the fused zone. The fairly high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clamp enclosing the pipe to expand elastically. It is this connection design, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for walling into walls for decades.

Note: a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is not suitable for anything else, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, there is no need to buy it; it is better to rent it.

• For hidden wiring in a typical apartment, in grooves or monolithic, it is definitely propylene.
• For long branches with a large number of water points - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers.
• For country houses, seasonal rental housing, country houses with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. – polyethylene.
• For budget repairs or in areas with water shortages, low pressure in the water supply, and poor quality water - PVC.

Wiring diagram

Comb collectors

There are two schemes for indoor water collection: sequential and parallel. In a sequential scheme, the disassembly points are connected to a common pipe through tees. This scheme is the most economical, but with a long wiring length, a large number of analysis points and/or with low water pressure, it is not suitable, as it greatly reduces the pressure.

In this case, water collection is done according to a parallel circuit from the “comb” collector, see Fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its own disassembly point. Valves regulate pressure separately at points. The branches on the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in one piece they are quite reliable.

Development of a water collection scheme

You need a water supply diagram in an apartment first of all for yourself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules is a serious job for a knowledgeable specialist; for example, in the large picture there is a water supply diagram for a private house with a summer kitchen, which is necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace pipes in an apartment, you don’t need to bother so much; it’s enough that the diagram is clearly visible and understandable:

1. Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
2. Metering devices.
3. Emergency valves and drains.
4. Shut-off valves.
5. Parsing points indicating consumers.
6. Backup branches and devices.
7. Direction of water flow.

In order for all this to be clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be followed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see Fig. On the left - more or less ok, but with some comments, on the right - incorrect:

• The diagram on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of ​​​​the actual location of the analysis points: the washing machine and the boiler come out under the floor.
• There are also too many arrows indicating current where it is already clear where it flows, which also confuses the diagram.
• In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted unclearly and not according to the rules.
• There, the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
• In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the low tide?
• But in the diagram on the left, it is clear even to a non-specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup one. The comment will be: “Where is the check valve when it’s hot? Without it, when the supply stops, the boiler will drive itself into a hot riser if valve (10) is not closed.” But this is essentially the case and with full understanding.

Correct simplified diagram of plumbing in an apartment

An example of an arbitrary, not according to the rules for drawing up design documentation, but a completely clear and no-nonsense water collection scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of parallel water withdrawal; where the combs are, it’s clear.

Pipe calculation

Before you finally select the pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not needed for “smartness” - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, too small a diameter of the water supply pipe will cause turbulence of the flow in it. In this case, the throughput of the pipe drops sharply, and at normal pressure at the inlet the tap will barely ooze.

Accurate calculation of the pipeline is a matter for highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, so that it flows normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is:

1. The minimum permissible pressure is 0.3 at.
2. Pressure loss per 1 m of 16 mm propylene pipe – 0.05 at.
3. The average pressure loss per unit of fittings and fittings for apartment wiring is 0.15 at.
4. Pressure loss in the sampling and metering unit – 0.25 at.
5. At normal pressure values ​​at the entrance to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm in a 12 mm pipe, periodic turbulization is inevitable, but in 16 mm pipes it is not observed.
6. The headroom for the farthest point is at least twofold.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with sequential wiring, such a popular pipe will have enough pressure for the farthest tap or whether you will have to take a wider and more expensive one. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from a pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate the neighbors based on the same 0.6 atm/floor: if, say, three floors up the taps are still flowing, then we have a good 2 atm. But in high-rise buildings this trick does not work: in order not to increase the cost of apartment wiring excessively, they make separate risers for the lower and upper floors and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: second floor of a nine-story building; Residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 atm of pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm losses. This is too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take a main pipe of 20-25 mm, or route it in a parallel pattern from the comb, otherwise you may remain “dry” in the dry summer weather.

Note: from here it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable it is to lengthen them and clutter them with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is nonlinear: they depend on the flow speed, which, in turn, depends on the cross-section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe sharply reduces losses, so the usual wiring for apartments with a 20 mm pipe with bends to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage systems of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that in this regard there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) " The correct one is the latest SNiP.

Tools, materials, dismantling old

Special tools for assembling residential pipelines are described above. To purchase materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity locally. Dismantling old pipes is done in the usual ways. It is better to do this after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not use valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you urgently need to close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. The round, grooved handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slip on them.

Accounting and control

The sampling and metering unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each device indicates the direction of water flow for it; it must be observed during assembly.

The unit is assembled with waterproofing of the connections using FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having first shut off the water; Before supplying water, you must remember to close the shut-off valve. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, that requires turning off the water supply to the neighbors on the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. Meter readings must be clearly readable without any additional operations (removing the hatch, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble part of a solid pipeline, sometimes in a rather bizarre configuration, to connect the metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transition couplings from plastic to metal MPV - an internal threaded coupling. The plastic is connected to the metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

Meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water according to consumption. The factory seal is there (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one can get into the meter and twist or file anything there. The factory seal must be protected; Without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

To install water meters, you need to notify the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives; the inspector does not need zero readings; he will record the initial ones and seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water according to consumption will be made after registration of metering devices.

GMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow water to be stolen with its help, and this device is not subject to sealing, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter’s turbine can become clogged with sludge. The HMS with a bulb filter is connected after the metering devices; filter - immediately after the GMS. Aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but there is no point in placing the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: overview of layout options for water supply elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we're doing the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has features of a non-construction nature, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should extend no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before pipe laying begins.

First of all, you need to install arcs - plastic strips with MPB angles under the mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws and dowels. When fastening, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without extensive construction experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet pipes flush with the wall. It is better to make them in advance PROTECTING above the finished wall by half the width of the side of the decorative faucet caps: if the caps are non-adjustable, they can be easily adjusted using an emery wheel or manually on an emery block.

The next point is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble them on a table and place them entirely in grooves. But then the question arises: how to install pipes through the walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all made of detachable fittings, and for soldered pipes two methods can be proposed:

• Using MRN/MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the grooves you can make removable hatches for inspection and repair of threaded connections.
• Install pipelines locally. For this you need a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work with cotton gloves so as not to accidentally get burned.

The fourth point is soldering. One soldering requires 15 mm of pipe. That is, if there is exactly 1 m between two fittings, you need to cut 1030 mm; if 0.6 m - 630 mm, etc.

The fifth point is bending metal-plastic pipes. The minimum permissible bending radius is 5 outer diameters of the pipe. You can come across recommendations: they say, put a spring in there, fill it with sand, and you can bend it at an angle, and pull out the spring and pick out the sand with a wire hook. In no case: the coating of the pipe deteriorates, the residual stresses in it far exceed the permissible ones, and the metal-plastic pipe acquires the properties of a very poor, rusted steel pipe.

And finally... This is a separate production cycle, and it is done after the water supply system is put into operation. The pipes for the boiler are made in advance, but the valves on them (they are definitely needed on both) are closed immediately after installing the pipes, and the pipes are additionally plugged.

Video: example of an installed water supply system

Bottom line

Now you know how to make your own plumbing. Let us emphasize that this work is not difficult or difficult, but it does not tolerate negligence or hackwork.

If water supply pipes in an apartment need to be replaced, most people invite a specialist.

Is it possible to try to do this yourself?

What to change for

The modern market can offer us:

• Black and galvanized steel pipes;
• Copper;
• Metal-plastic;
• Polypropylene.

The comparative advantages and disadvantages of these materials have already been mentioned several times, so let’s just briefly go over the main points.

Steel pipes without anti-corrosion coating

pros

• Mechanical strength;
• Cheapness;
• Availability of fittings.

Minuses

• Susceptibility to corrosion and overgrowth of the internal surface, especially in cold water;
• Heavy weight;
• Labor-intensive installation with welding or on.

Galvanized pipes

This pipe is afraid of rust only where the deeply cut threads have exposed the steel from under the zinc layer. At the same time, the price of the pipe has increased, and installing it is still not easy work.

Tip: However, where special strength or heat resistance is needed at a low cost, galvanized steel is the best choice.

In particular, it is an ideal material for connection from the heating main to a private house.

Copper

pros

• This material, in the absence of disasters (a meteorite falling on a house, World War III or a serious family quarrel), is practically eternal. The oldest copper water lines are over a century old and in excellent condition.
• Working temperature. It is limited above by a value of 250 C. This means that the pipes will survive not only the peak of water temperature; they will also withstand superheated steam.
• Resistance to moisture and chemically active substances. The pipe will not rust or dissolve.

Minuses

• Price. This is the most expensive of all materials.
• Installation is tedious and requires considerable physical strength; It also requires a special tool.

Metal-plastic

pros

• Easy assembly;
• Reasonable price for pipes and fittings;
• Neat appearance.

Minuses

There is actually only one serious drawback, but a very significant one: leaks at the fittings. After several dozen heating-cooling cycles, the connections begin to leak. Because of this, it is better to make them available for maintenance.

Polypropylene

pros

• Quick installation that does not require special skills;
• Extremely reliable and mechanically strong connections;
• Cheap material and fittings;
• Light weight is important both during transportation and when attaching the water supply to light partitions.

Minuses

• Unreinforced polypropylene expands greatly when heated;
• Connections with fittings are non-separable;
• Installation requires special tools

Reinforced polypropylene does not have the first drawback - pipes in which one of the layers is aluminum foil or fiberglass. In addition, it can withstand significantly higher water pressure.

Comparison results

Based on the totality of all their properties, reinforced polypropylene pipes are clearly the best choice. All other things being equal, it is better to choose a fiberglass-reinforced pipe: it does not require stripping during installation and does not delaminate. But more on that later.

How to change

So, we settled on reinforced polypropylene. Replacing pipes in an apartment with your own hands, stage by stage, looks like this:

Dismantling the old water supply

1. We turn off and reset the water supply risers;
2. We disassemble the threads or, which is simpler, we cut the old water supply from the valves and beyond with a turbine;
3. Carefully, without much effort or distortion, unscrew the valves.

Tip: with old screw valves it is often more convenient to first completely unscrew the head with the wing and the stem.

In this case, you will not need to gouge out a piece of the wall to unscrew the valve.

Be prepared, if necessary, to anneal the threads with a gas can with a nozzle or a blowtorch; When you begin to unscrew the valve, be sure to hold it with a second gas wrench.

Otherwise, there is a risk of breaking off the thread on the steel pipe coming from the riser.

Cleaning an old pipe

The section of pipe up to the valve is almost always completely or partially clogged with slag and sand. In cold water, corrosion and salt deposits turn debris into hard build-up inside the pipe.

Judging by the absence of deposits on top, it is galvanized. However, as you can see, it also needs to be cleaned.

Cleaning the pipe before installing valves is a mandatory operation. To do this, you can use a thin steel string (drapes were hung on these during Joseph Kobzon’s youth) or, if the riser is close, an ordinary screwdriver.

If you have to use a string, make a handle on one side of it, like the one on a well gate, and on the other, a hook the size of a match head. You will have to clean problem areas by rotating the handle while feeding the string.

Valves and filters

The new valve fits onto the old thread with a winding made of plumbing flax impregnated with paint.

Tip: to avoid getting your hands dirty, wind one turn of flax, brush paint on opposite sides of the thread, and then wind the rest of the winding.

Don't forget to line it with plastic or folded newspaper. At least one drop will fall on the floor.

Next we install the filter, then the adapter fitting from thread to polypropylene.

It is advisable to place the filter so that the settling barrel is directed downwards. Otherwise, slag and scale will accumulate anywhere but in it.

Of the valves, it is better to choose modern ball valves, which shut off the water by turning the handle or flag 90 degrees.

Installation of polypropylene

1. We select a soldering iron nozzle that matches the diameter of the pipe and fittings. By the way, for home water supply the optimal diameter is 20 mm, which is also the cheapest.
2. We remove the outer chamfer from the pipe.
3. We must clean a reinforced pipe with aluminum foil: even if a layer of aluminum is glued between layers of polypropylene, when the aluminum comes into contact with water, the pipe may begin to delaminate after a short time. Electrochemical processes in aluminum in the presence of an electrolyte and low currents are to blame.
4. We insert one side of the nozzle into the fitting, and put the other on the pipe.
5. Let the plastic melt.
6. Insert the pipe into the fitting and hold for a few seconds.

Conclusion

And it's really not difficult, right? Don’t forget: turn it on, opening the valves only partially, after which we carefully inspect the water supply, all threads and connections to the faucets for leaks.

Sooner or later, any, even the highest quality water supply system requires repair. There can be many reasons, and one of them is the need to replace part of the pipeline. This article will discuss how to change water pipes in an apartment.

Reasons for replacing water pipes

Replacing water pipes in an apartment may be required for the following reasons:

1. Complete loss of bandwidth. Metal pipes that do not have corrosion protection gradually become overgrown with various impurities found in the water. As a rule, after a few years, the throughput of the pipe drops several times. Of course, it is always possible to disassemble and clean the pipeline if you know how to clean a cold water pipe in an apartment, but in this case, this operation will soon have to be repeated. It is also worth considering the fact that thin-walled pipes were often used to construct the water supply system, which simply crumble after their service life.
2. Loss of pipeline tightness. Seamless pipes rarely leak, but welded products are prone to this, and leaks occur in several places at once. In this case, there are also half measures - the pipe can be welded, but after each welding the quality of the pipeline decreases.
3. Loss of visual qualities. Steel water pipes that have been in service for more than a decade usually look very unattractive - numerous paint runs, chips, scratches and rust. It would be possible to hide them in a box, but then it will not be possible to notice the problem that has arisen right away, and it will be much more difficult to solve it. If hiding communications is vital, then it would be best to make a simple collapsible box, which will significantly simplify further actions. Sometimes people also cannot understand why water pipes are humming and they want to replace them.

The optimal solution to solve all these problems is to completely replace the water pipes.

Material selection

On the building materials market you can find a lot of options for water pipes:

• Steel pipes;
• Galvanized steel pipes;
• Metal-plastic pipes;
• Polypropylene pipes.

Each option has special characteristics that need to be considered before changing the pipes in the apartment:

1. Steel pipes. The material is familiar, but not modern - in most characteristics, steel products are inferior to relatively new analogues. That is why you should not opt ​​for such pipes.
2. Galvanized steel pipes. Pipes with a zinc coating are, in terms of parameters, head and shoulders above products made from ordinary steel. The main difference is resistance to corrosion, so water pipes assembled from galvanized pipes will not overgrow and rust. The main disadvantage is the complexity of installation and threading, if there is none. In order to make a thread, you will have to purchase special tools, which, coupled with the high cost of the pipes themselves, will significantly increase repair costs.
3. Metal-plastic pipes. Metal-plastic pipes have good visual qualities and good performance indicators. The biggest problem associated with the use of such pipes is the weakness of the fittings, which begin to leak after just a few temperature cycles. To monitor the performance of metal-plastic pipes, fittings must be installed in an accessible place and not covered in order to gain quick access if necessary.
4. Polypropylene pipes. Plastic pipes have a lot of advantages, which are implemented specifically in water supply systems. Perhaps the only serious drawback of polypropylene pipes is non-separable connections. The pipes are attached to each other using a special soldering iron. It is inexpensive, and the pipes are cheap, so if necessary, you can simply cut out the damaged section and install a new one.

The best repair option is to replace metal pipes with plastic ones (more details: " "). They can operate at different temperature conditions, have a perfectly smooth inner surface to which deposits do not stick, and are completely resistant to corrosion.

The mechanical strength, although inferior to steel pipes, is still quite high and allows the pipes to be used under normal domestic conditions. Plastic pipes cannot leak, and if the damage is serious, the pipe in the old water supply pipe is cut out and replaced with a new one.

The general low cost of polypropylene pipes is also emphasized by the low cost of fittings compatible with them - their range is unusually wide, and choosing the right parts is very simple. Installation is also simple - replacing pipes in an apartment with your own hands is quite possible if you use plastic products.

Installation of water shut-off valves

The water supply system installed in an old house is a structure that fails completely. In addition to pipes, valves also have their own limit of strength, which lose the ability to normally hold water in the system, and at some point they simply stop working, so they also need to be changed.

To replace valves in an apartment in a multi-story building, the first step is to shut off the hot and cold water supply risers. To do this, you need to submit an official request to call a plumber - this will guarantee that during the work, none of the residents of the house will turn on the water without permission.

Another benefit of calling a plumber is that when repairing an old riser, a thread may break off, which will have to be welded. This requires a welder and special equipment - and an official request will help solve this problem.

In any case, when the valves are installed, further replacement of water pipes in the apartment is carried out with your own hands.

Installing filters

Regardless of the type of faucets used, water supply filters must still be installed behind the valves. The fact is that various small impurities present in water can very quickly render any faucet unusable, not to mention numerous minor blockages that will have to be removed regularly.

Conventional coarse cleaning devices are best suited as filters. There is no point in expensive multi-level systems that can be offered in a store - a regular stainless mesh and a small sump for collecting slag will be quite enough.

Pipe connection

The valve filter and the first polypropylene fitting are attached using a threaded connection. Threads are often used for mounting most faucets. To prevent the installed threaded connection from leaking in the future, during installation you need to take a little linen winding, coat it with drying oil or paint, and then screw it onto the thread. It is worth smearing the winding generously - all the excess will squeeze out on its own, so there will be no problems during operation.

The installation of polypropylene pipes is not particularly difficult. First, the correct nozzle is selected, the fitting with the pipe on it is heated, after which the molten parts are tightly compressed and held in this state until they solidify. Special fasteners are used to secure pipes to walls.

Conclusion

Replacing water pipes is quite simple. Correct selection of materials and competent execution of work are the main components of high-quality repair of a water supply system pipeline.

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Replacement of old steel pipes

Often in our apartments, water pipes need to be replaced, since most of them have had old ones since the moment the house was put into operation, and this means decades of service! Usually this is a metal water supply system, which today no longer meets all standards and requirements, since it cannot provide adequate water quality, safety, and ease of use.

Plastic pipes are increasingly being used, which are not only more durable and stronger, but also easier to install and maintain. You can easily install such a water supply system with your own hands in just a couple of hours.

In order to replace pipes, you do not need to have special knowledge or expensive equipment: polypropylene pipes, special fittings and other simple tools can be bought at any hardware store.

Such a replacement can be carried out not only with the help of metal-plastic ones, which have shown themselves to be excellent, but their cost is quite high, so more and more often preference is given to installing plastic ones.

From metal to polypropylene

Today, four types of water pipes are used for installation in apartments, including:

Elements for metal-plastic water pipes: 1 - adapter; 2 - square; 3 - elbow joint; 4 - tee; 5 - union nut; 6 - fitting; 7 - valve; 8 - metal-plastic pipes.

1. Metal, having different diameters. These can be steel, cast iron, galvanized water pipes. Pros: strength, reliability, long service life. But there are also numerous disadvantages, among which it should be noted: the complexity of installation (it is necessary to cut threads, use a welding machine to connect pipes), the inside walls are covered with rust and plaque. In order to crash into a water pipe, you need to have the appropriate skills. In addition, metal requires careful maintenance, constant checking for leaks, and painting.
2. Copper pipes are more durable, replacing water pipes with copper can improve reliability and durability, in addition, copper is very aesthetically pleasing and looks great in any bathroom. But there are also disadvantages here: in order to replace copper pipes, you need to have special skills, the cost of the products is very high, and stray currents may occur.
3. Plastic pipelines are easy to install, they are reliable, durable, they can be connected to ordinary metal ones, but at the fastening points they can begin to leak due to sudden temperature changes, so a connection method using special welding is often recommended.
4. Polypropylene is considered the best option when installing water supply in an apartment. Polypropylene is a very reliable material, can withstand temperature changes, and the connection method is simple and reliable. Polypropylene pipes are used for cold and hot water supply, heating, and sewerage. The diameter can be different, so choosing them is very easy, and the cost is affordable.

The following materials and equipment will be needed:

Replacing polypropylene water pipes is simple, but you should prepare everything you need for the job in advance. Today, several installation methods are offered. Depending on the choice of a specific method, the set of equipment also differs:

• pipe cutter (cutting scissors);
• pipe bender (to give the water pipe the required shape);
• soldering iron and nozzles (for hot, so-called diffuser welding);
• calibration scan (when using the press method);
• press pliers (for the pressing method);
• glue, building level, sandpaper, nozzles for any diameter for a soldering iron, fittings, couplings, adapters, etc.

Methods for replacing old pipes

1. Cold welding of plastic pipelines involves processing the inner surface of one pipe, after which a special adhesive composition is applied to the end of the other. Only 15-20 seconds are enough for gluing. This type of plumbing installation is considered the easiest; anyone can do it.
2. Press fittings provide a more secure connection. For fastening, a pipe is put on the press fitting, and the crimp sleeve is pressed with special pliers. The work is done very quickly, you only need to select fittings of the required size and diameter. Additional sealing is only necessary when connecting to faucets and metal pipes.
3. Hot welding is carried out using a soldering iron, the seams become monolithic, this connection is the most reliable, but often requires the presence of a specialist.

What should you pay attention to before replacing steel pipes?

When replacing the water supply system in an apartment, you need to pay attention to the following:

• whether water consumption meters need to be replaced or polypropylene pipes are simply laid;
• what material the pipes will be laid from (plastic, metal, copper), what installation method is chosen, what pipe diameter is required;
• what inlet taps are installed on the riser (valves for shutting off the water);
• what tools are needed to lay pipes in an apartment (depending on the material).

Often the quality of water in our water supplies leaves much to be desired. To ensure higher quality water, coarse and fine filters are used. Such filters help extend the life of steel and plastic pipes by cleaning their internal surfaces from rust, silt and other things.

Such filters are installed at the entrances, before installing plastic and other pipes. For such an installation, it is necessary to provide for the diameter of the pipes and what connecting elements are needed for this.

Cost of work: calculation example

Before you change the pipes in your apartment, you need to correctly calculate all the costs that will go into such plumbing work. We offer a calculation for replacing pipes in a typical apartment, which includes the cost of dismantling old metal pipes, purchasing new ones, and installing them:

• replace the wiring from the inlet taps - 5000-5500 rubles;
• replace the riser - from 1800 rubles;
• replace existing pipes from inlet taps, install water consumption meters - from 7,500 rubles;
• replace the hot water supply riser and heated towel rail - from 4,500 rubles.

Carrying out plumbing work in an apartment is a rather responsible, complex task, which, however, can be done with your own hands. Often this is a simple replacement of old metal pipes with new and reliable plastic ones, installation of meters and water filters. It is best to trust professionals in this matter, but modern plastic pipes, unlike traditional steel pipes, are not only of high quality, but are also easy to install even by a person who has no experience in such repairs.