It cannot be said that the electric kettle is a "long-liver" among a variety of household electrical appliances. The average life of an electric kettle is 2-3 years, then various problems begin, primarily related to its button or thermostat.
These problems occur due to specific operating conditions, during which various parts of the electric kettle become very hot. This article will discuss the repair of the electric kettle button, as well as options for how to connect the kettle directly bypassing it.
The material for the manufacture of the button body of the electric kettle is plastic. By itself, this material can withstand high temperatures, but this, as it turns out, is not enough. Therefore, the repair of the electric kettle button is most often caused by melting of places near the metal contacts or serious damage due to deformation.
And if just such a misfortune happened, and the button of the electric kettle melted along the edges or inside from the high temperature, then it can no longer be repaired. In this case, it is easier to buy a button for an electric kettle of a similar type, and then replace it with your own hands.
Replacing the electric kettle button is as follows:
1. First you need to remove the old button, for which you will need to disassemble the part of the kettle where it is installed. As a rule, for this it is enough to unscrew the screw from the bottom of the handle, which consists of several connected parts.
2. Then you will need to disconnect the two contacts from the burned-out button and unscrew the self-tapping screw with which the button is screwed to the body of the electric kettle.
3. The new button for the kettle is installed and connected in reverse order.
This is the easiest way to do . Of course, it is only suitable if the new button is similar to the old one.
Otherwise, as in the pictures, you may need to replace the screw with a longer product or slightly enlarge the hole in the handle for a non-standard button.
If there is no spare button at all, then you can connect the kettle directly. In this case, you need to understand that it will no longer automatically turn off and you will have to follow this process yourself.
So, before you connect the electric kettle directly, you should remove the old button by disconnecting the wires from it. To make the kettle work again, but without a button, you just need to connect these two wires together.
The easiest way to do this is through the usual twist, which is then insulated or protected by a heat shrink tube. In any case, the choke must be securely protected.
This issue is resolved, you can boil water without forgetting that there is no longer a button and you should not go far from the electrical appliance without first disconnecting its power cord from the mains.
You turned on the kettle, and in response, silence.
We begin to think, what happened? The first guesses that came to mind - the heating element failed. But do not rush to throw away the kettle, nothing has been lost yet, perhaps the reason why the kettle does not want to boil water is completely different. We begin to look for the cause First you need to check the voltage in the network, the electrical outlet that your kettle is connected to is probably faulty. We plug another electrical appliance into this outlet and if it works, the outlet is working. Now we need a tool.
For now, we'll get by with just a screwdriver and a tester.
Now we need to check if the electric plug, the kettle stand and the wire connecting these two elements are working. With the tester, we alternately call the contacts of the electric plug with the contact socket of the electric kettle stand, including the ground contact. on the electric plug it is located on the side, and on the kettle stand in the center of the contact socket. In our case, the circuit is working, there are no breaks.
Let's move on to the next step.
First, without disassembling the kettle, with the help of a tester, we will try to determine the state of the electric circuit of the kettle. Judging by the testimony of the tester, it becomes clear that the malfunction is in the kettle itself.
We take a screwdriver and begin to disassemble the kettle. Loosen three screws
and with the help of a tester we check the health of the heating element (heater). In my case, the resistance of the heating element is 165 ohms. So the TEN is correct.
These indications are individual and may vary. The main thing is that we determined the heating element is working, we continue to understand further. Now we need to determine which wire goes where. We see two white wires that are connected to a neon lamp, which indicates whether the kettle is on or not.
One red wire connects one contact of the heating element to the electric socket of the kettle.
From the second contact of the heating element, the red wire goes to the handle of the kettle and returns through the switch to another electrical contact of the kettle.
With a tester, we call the red wires that go into the handle of the kettle. The tester readings indicate that there is an open circuit in this circuit.
In order to determine the location of damage, it is necessary to disassemble the handle of the kettle. Loosen three screws. One at the bottom, two others at the top.
Before unscrewing the top screws, you need to remove the lid of the kettle. We open the lid and, using a screwdriver, slightly bend the junction of the lid with the kettle, remove the lid - unscrew the two screws.
So we got to the insides of the handle. Visually, all the wires are normal, there is no damage. Now we need to check the switch, but while it is in its place, it is not very convenient to do this. We remove the switch. The switch is attached to the handle with one self-tapping screw.
First, remove the switch cover. We lift the lower part of the switch cover to the top, freeing it from the latch and pull it to the side opposite from the kettle cover. Next, unscrew the screw. Everything, the switch is in our hands.
Disconnect it from the wires. We call the tester. The tester shows a break.
Let's disassemble the switch. Its upper part, applying the necessary force, is shifted towards the contacts and lifted to the top. What we see, we see soot on the contacts of the switch.
The electric kettle is very popular these days. It can be found not only in the home kitchen, but also in offices and various production bases. The device allows you to boil water for coffee or tea in a short time. But any even the most reliable and high-quality electric kettle can fail sooner or later. It is very important in this case to correctly establish the cause of the breakdown, which led to the fact that the electric kettle does not turn on.
Electric kettle in the office
How does an electric kettle work?
Before proceeding with self-repair, you must first understand the principles of operation of the equipment. Despite the fact that today there are a huge number of different models of kettles, they almost all work according to the same scheme.
The equipment is connected to the power supply network through a wire. Power is supplied from the outlet to the electric kettle. The kettle itself is placed on a massive platform, on which there are special XP1 contacts. At the bottom of the kettle there is a special connector through which interaction with the thermostat contact group is carried out.
Electric kettle plugged in
Each electric kettle is also equipped with a SA1 thermal switch. It can turn off the device in manual or automatic mode after the water boils. In order to ensure the safety of the device, a special switch for thermal protection is installed in it. It must always be in working condition, and if the kettle is turned on without water, automatically turn off the device to prevent it from overheating.
After the kettle is connected to the power supply, the current will move towards the tubular heating element. The fact that the equipment is in operating mode will be indicated by a special light indicator. On different models of equipment, it can be on the body of the kettle or on the platform.
indicator light
Important: as soon as the water boils, the light turns off. This is due to the fact that steam begins to collect between the water and the lid of the kettle, that is, in the free space.
Then it enters through a special channel to the bimetallic plate. It is made of 2 different types of metal, so after heating occurs, the plate with the contacts begins to bend, which leads to the opening of the contacts. As a result, the electric kettle turns off. This is the correct operation of the technique.
Reasons why the kettle does not turn on and how to fix them
But there are several common reasons why the appliance does not automatically turn off after the water boils. These include:
In addition, automatic boil-over protection could have worked in the electric kettle. As a result, any attempts to turn on the device will not be successful. Usually this option works automatically in the following situations:
- if there is no water in the switched on electric kettle or its quantity is too small;
- with complete evaporation of water.
Disabling this feature is easy. To do this, you need to remove the kettle from the stand and draw water into it. When the instrument is placed back on the platform, it will be able to resume normal operation.
Important: when the kettle does not turn on, what to do in this case, everyone wants to know. In some cases, the equipment can be repaired independently, subject to certain rules and safety precautions. But before proceeding with the repair, it is necessary to correctly establish the cause of the breakdown in order to know what to do.
Why does the electric kettle not turn off after the water has boiled?
One of the most common defects in the operation of the device is that it turns off prematurely. The equipment is unable to bring water to a boil. As a result, the owners begin to think that the kettle has completely deteriorated and cannot be restored. Before throwing away the equipment, it is necessary to understand the reasons that lead to the fact that the electric kettle does not turn on or constantly turns off. Among them:
Disassembling an electric kettle on your own at home can only be done by a person who is at least a little versed in electrics. Otherwise, you can completely break the technique. If there are doubts about the correctness of their actions or the reasons for the breakdown are not clear, then it is best to take the equipment to a repair shop. There, qualified specialists will help you quickly find a breakdown and make every effort to fix it as soon as possible.
Self-repair of equipment
An electric kettle has become an indispensable attribute of any kitchen and is a sales leader in comparison with other household appliances. This appliance is widely used both at home, in the kitchen and in the office. But unfortunately, like any electrical appliance, the kettle fails after some time of operation. Since the price of this water heater is not too high, it is easier to buy a new one than to repair it. But if you consider yourself a home master, or a device for boiling water is dear to you as a memory, you can try to repair the electric kettle with your own hands.
An electric kettle works on a fairly simple principle, regardless of whether it is an expensive model or a budget one. At the bottom of the device is a heating element connected to a thermostat, consisting of bimetal plate. A tubular heater, when an electric current is applied to it, heats the liquid to a boil. When steam is formed during the boiling process, it passes through a special channel to the thermostat, as a result of which the latter turns off the power supply.
If you look at the scheme of operation of the device, you can see that it works on the principle of an iron, and does not differ in the complexity of the design. But before you repair the electric kettle, there are always difficulties with case disassembly, since the latches (holding the handle) are located differently for different models of units, in addition, the mounting screws can be with a cap for a special screwdriver.
Typical malfunctions
An electric kettle is a simple device, which contains few elements that can fail. However, there are still common problems, among which are the following:
- slow heating of the liquid;
- the device turns off prematurely;
- the kettle does not turn off;
- the device does not turn on;
- burnout of the heating element;
- water is leaking from the body.
Slow heating of the liquid
If you notice that the kettle does not heat water quickly, then pay attention to the condition of the heating element. Thick layer of scale on it, formed due to insufficiently good maintenance of the unit, has poor thermal conductivity, which takes more time to heat the water. If the scale is not removed, the heating element may burn out.
In addition, the entire contact group of the device suffers from overheating, as a result of which the contacts melt or burn.
To get rid of scale, you can use the usual citric acid sold in shops. It is enough to pour 1-2 sachets of citric acid (20 grams each) into the tank, bring it to a boil and leave the heated solution in the tank for 30 minutes. After that, the container must be thoroughly rinsed with running water to remove scale residues. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated.
Device turns off prematurely
This behavior of the electric water heater is explained by the fact that the shutdown of the device may be due to scale formed on the heating element. Since the heating element has a fuse against overheating, it works and breaks the electrical network. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to descale the heaters.
Kettle won't turn off
During the boiling of water in the tank of the apparatus, the steam must be collected under the lid and sent through a special channel to the thermostat. If the lid is not closed tightly, then this does not happen, and the appliance will work without shutting down. If everything is in order with the lid, check that the steam hole, which is located on the side of the handle, is not contaminated with scale. In the case when everything is in order with the hole, it can be assumed that the kettle does not turn off due to thermostat breakdowns.
The thermostat at the electric kettle is located at the bottom of the case, and in order to get to it for replacement, you will have to disassemble the device completely.
For example, a regular budget device was taken, which does not differ in design from more expensive models - an electric kettle Vitek, Tefal, Polaris, Scarlett and others. By the way, in this model, as well as in the Vitek VT-7009(TR) device, the container is made of heat resistant glass. So, let's analyze the unit according to the following algorithm.
- Kettle repair should begin with unplugging it from the mains. Next, remove the device from the stand (base) and unscrew all the screws located on its bottom panel.
- After that, it is necessary with special care to pry off the plastic cover located on the handle using a thin screwdriver. This should be done carefully because in different models of devices, the latches can be located in different places, and they can be easily broken.
- After removing the cover, you can see the mounting screws. They also need to be removed.
- After unscrewing all the fasteners, applying a little effort, disconnect the handle with the cover from the body.
- Next, disconnect the housing from the bottom of the unit.
- At the bottom of the case you will see all the main elements of the device: a contact group, a thermal relay and a heating element.
- pay attention to bimetallic plate(on the right in the picture). If damage is visible on it or it has a worn out appearance, then this may be the reason that the appliance has stopped turning off. The plate is not repaired, but replaced with a new one.
But how to disassemble the Bosch kettle, if when unscrewing all the screws on the bottom, it is not removed? Those who disassembled such a device encountered difficulties that often ended in a breakdown of the device. Since the process is quite difficult to describe, it is better to watch a video on this topic.
The device does not turn on
The reasons why your boiler does not turn on can be different.
- Faulty electrical cord and plug. To do this, you need to “ring out” the cord with the help of a tester, touching the probes to the contacts of the plug and the contacts on the stand (base). If a break is found, replace the cord with a new one.
- Bad contact in the stand(base). From prolonged operation, the contacts can burn, which is why their conductivity is disturbed. If burns have formed on the contacts, they can be cleaned using fine sandpaper. But in the case when they are melted, they will need to be completely replaced.
- Faulty internal switch in the device. Since the switch has to experience fairly large loads (from 1500 to 2000 W), its contacts may melt over time. This may cause the machine to not work. The switch is located at the bottom of the handle, and in the event of a malfunction, it looks as shown in the figure below.
In this case, the button must be replaced. But there is a button malfunction, in which you can fix the kettle with your own hands without replacing it. If you look at the button from the side, you can see 2 contacts that close in the “on” position. If on them soot is formed, the device will not turn on.
To remove carbon deposits, you can use fine-grained sandpaper, a nail file, or a thin file. To make it more convenient to do the stripping, you will need a small “refinement” of the button, namely, removing the sides with the help of wire cutters.
Another reason that the device does not want to work can be called malfunction of the mechanical power button. This breakdown is most common in the Tefal vitesse model, since plastic rails are built into the handle of the appliance, which transmit translational movement from the external button to the internal one located at the bottom of the unit.
After this part breaks, turning on the Tefal kettle becomes impossible. To understand in more detail how to repair an element that has broken, you can watch the video, which discusses one original way to fix a defect.
Heating element burnout
When repairing electric kettles, both old models and newer ones, the most common failure is the burnout of the heating element. The problem with heating elements arises, first of all, due to their overheating due to untimely descaling.
Before repairing a kettle with a disc heater or a heating element in the form of a spiral, it is necessary to disassemble the unit in the manner described above. After that, take the tester and connect the probes of the device to the output contacts of the heater. If the lamp lights up on the device, or it makes a sound, then the heating element can be considered serviceable.
How to check the heating element if no measuring device? It turns out it's very simple. It is necessary to connect zero from the mains to one contact of the heater, and the phase to the other. Next, insert a 220 bulb into the socket, from which 2 insulated wires are removed. Touch one stripped end of the wire to one contact of the heater, and the other to the opposite. If the light is on, then the heating element is working.
If it turns out that the disk heater has burned out, then it cannot be replaced, since it is one with the bottom of the appliance, such as, for example, in the Scarlett kettle, or Vitek VT-7009 (TR). Therefore, you will have to buy a new unit. Only open-type heater is subject to replacement.
water flowing
If you notice that water is leaking (leaking) from the reservoir of the device, then it is recommended to use such an apparatus for a while until scale forms in the microcracks, which can block the leakage of liquid. If this does not help, then you will have to buy a new “boiler” if the warranty period has expired.
Another reason that the reservoir is leaking may be loose connection of the electric heater with the body of the device(if the heating element is open type). In this case, you can tighten the fasteners holding it. If this does not help, then you will have to remove the heating element and change the rubber seal that has worn out.
Thus, we can summarize: in some cases it is quite possible to repair a unit for boiling water on your own. But if you lack certain skills in repairing household appliances, then the best option would be to buy a new kettle. Repair in a service center, from a financial point of view, does not justify itself, and there is no guarantee that the breakdown will not happen again.
Repairing an electric kettle is simple - everyone can handle it. Inside there is a spiral, rolled to the bottom, controlling the thermostat, with a button. The design is powered by a voltage of 230 volts, protected against overheating by a thermal fuse. More often wire - you have to change. Cheap models lack the intricacies of protection.
Repairing an electric kettle with your own hands sometimes becomes an interesting activity, especially if the lid plus the handle are cast, it is impossible to undock from the electric kettle. Cause: The screws are under the edge of the door. You involuntarily think how the Chinese managed to assemble a miracle of technology.
Repair of electric kettles in China
The products of Guangdong Province are widely known. China is rich in economic and other interesting zones that give tax and some other concessions to manufacturers. The United States looks without enthusiasm at the conflict with the heirs of communism, whom Nietzsche predicted the fate of a couple of centuries ago. Today we will see how to repair a Chinese electric kettle, made according to a standard design for a company that does not seek to reveal the true origin, with a probability of 95% being a representative of Eastern Europe, mb, the Russian Federation. Let's see what compatriots indulge in - the best examples of world household appliances pass through the hands of Guangdong workers.
China's GDP ranks second. Japan is third. Not bad, given the state of the Land of the Rising Sun, which survived the Second World War. Feudal Japan became the world's largest electronics manufacturer.
Housing, side panel when repairing an electric kettle
Below are photos that allow you to personally enjoy the views of the details of the simplest design. There will be links to the pictures in the text. If you want - look, if you don't want - scroll blindly. Disassembly begins with a lid. By skipping a step, you cannot remove the side panel that hides the LED plus the switch. With the side panel on, it is more difficult to remove the bottom. Dilemma. Do the opposite, if you are looking for difficulties, then you can not remove the cover at all!
Lid. It is held by two ears with two pins. A plastic monolith, you are tormented to disassemble, installation is even more difficult. Pins perfectly shows the first photo. There are two screws on the sides, unscrew immediately, remove the side panel. Everything is neat inside - plus models, we often find a whole mess of wires. Let's go to the bottom.
Around the connector, where the ground terminal is provided (the structure is hanging in the air), there are three screws. We unscrew, we are convinced: the bottom is slow to be removed. Along the perimeter are six plastic teeth included in the six holes in the body. So that it does not accidentally fall apart, wound by operation, there is a guide on the sides of each tooth. Alternately, the teeth will have to be snapped off with a screwdriver separately (see photo below), break it - you will break the bottom when removing it. We took a picture of each tooth, illustrating what was said. We put the dismantled parts aside, look at the switch.
Switch, temperature sensor: electric kettle repairman's point of view
The photo shows from the bottom position. A shiny circle with a cut is a mechanical sensor. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, having seized the moment, the electric kettle turns off. The water boils, an increased amount of steam begins to stand out. There is a small hole in the housing located under the switch, covered with a circular loose plastic plug (see photo). The plate is installed, being above the steam gate. Boiling begins, the temperature rises sharply. After a moment, you can hear a click. The tongue of the plate, made up of a pair of metals, sharply bends upwards. Looks like a bimetal relay.
Now the switch. Not so simple. The part is devoid of visible connections, except for the metal bracket shown in the photo on the side. The upper movable part is attached to it. When we turn on the kettle, the switch spout rests on the tongue of a round plate with a cutout, the bracket is compressed. Due to the design, indefinitely, the parts retain their initial position. Click! The slightest jerk releases the bracket, which returns the switch to its original position.
Let's look at the bottom of the case. Here are:
- circular connector;
- rolled spiral;
- LED divider resistor with a nominal value of 14 kOhm.
While the switch is dormant, the LED glows blue. A full voltage of 230 volts is applied. The photo available shows: the resistor burned out, the contacts were inserted into the clamping terminals, one could not stand the inspection. I had to solder. The divider resistor is connected in parallel with the rolled heater. The electric kettle turns on - the glow changes to orange. Dual LED (schoolteachers didn't say?), unlike typical use, both shades work at the same time while the water boils. The addition of electromagnetic waves of different shades gives orange. It is difficult to enumerate the shades that form the superposition (the repairman is deeply indifferent).
Remove the resistor, or it will burn out - nothing terrible will happen. It's just that the LED will stop changing color, tracking changes in the position of the switch. Color is irrelevant to water temperature. It is easy to notice - there is no thermal fuse. We believe that there is simply no protection. Those who wish can equip the part with a metal case, next to the ring connector. Provide protection against empty inclusion. This kettle may cause a fire if unprotected. We recommend that the device be supplemented with a thermal fuse. Put not somewhere in the center, the perimeter of the heating element, increasing reliability.
The resistance of the heating element is 30 ohms. The photo shows through a fraction the power values on a metal surface of 220 and 240 V. Enough to understand what can break. The device of the electric kettle is simple, even the kettle can be repaired, but ... It was easy to remove the lid, but put it back! We hope readers will solve the question on their own, it is difficult to answer. But we will tell you how to disassemble the switch for those who want to clean the contacts. The gap distance is scanty, steam is in the air. Just look at the two screws from the picture: they are covered with rust, although the electric kettle has not really been used.
We believe that six months later it will be necessary to refresh contacts. Let's take a look at the switch:
- Place your finger on the plastic ear that secures the switch to the housing.
- Press the button on the opposite side with your thumb.
- Squeeze your fingers gently, the retaining bracket will fly out. Guard more than the apple of your eye, otherwise the electric kettle will only have to be thrown away.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Hook the bracket with the front of the button, rest it on the base, gently put the part in place without any extra effort. The bimetallic plate can be easily removed with a knife or a screwdriver. Self-repair of electric kettles consists of such trifles, otherwise it will not take long to break the cover when putting it on! Contacts are made of bronze, visible in the photo. It is impossible to clean with alcohol, gasoline, there is plastic nearby. We think we'll have to get hold of acetic acid, the switch is waiting in line.
You have to disconnect the terminals. The Saturn model in question is not simple. The photo shows a small hole in the terminal, which corresponds to the spike of the second half. If you press there with an awl, the connection is disassembled without problems. Otherwise ... It is impossible to tear one from the other. The process is aggravated: the joints are protected by a heat-shrinkable cambric, which is poorly heated with a hair dryer. It crumbles easily, barely holds on, but ... does not come off. Therefore, if necessary, cut, disassemble the assembly. Clamps are disposable. The resistor wire jumped out, it was not possible to compress it back, it is not convenient. I had to solder.
Weld the plastic with a soldering iron. Along the way, using the necessary additives (polyethylene). Choose material compatible with the food industry. Glue use heat-resistant, harmless to humans.
Conclusion on the repair of an electric kettle
As readers understood, this is one of the cheap models of Chinese teapots, made by order of a certain company. Maintainability of the product is zero. Difficult to take apart, even harder to assemble. Picking, it is easy to spoil the presentation, functionality. The bottom dressed quite simply, with considerable effort, threatening clicks. The lid was a big problem. Skillful use of a hair dryer will help. With only a screwdriver, disassembly will be tight.
Even in the store we recommend to evaluate the assembly. How difficult it will be to disassemble the device in order to repair the electric kettle with your own hands. If the product is disposable, it's not too happy, but if it's also dangerous... no comment.
We hope that after such a detailed review, readers will be able to repair Tefal electric kettles and repair Scarlet electric kettles. After all, most products are made in China. We want to say goodbye, see the pictures, evaluate, study. If the bimetal plate is inserted with the wrong side, the electric kettle will stop turning off when it boils! Although the click is audible.
Main surprise
Boiled water causes allergic reactions. It is difficult to name the percentage of people prone to illness. Kashpirovsky classifies half of the planet as an exacerbated reaction. He treats almost 100% of those who applied. Some (arrogant) are sent back. Let them try local hospitals.
The regulation of the immune system is poorly understood by science. A sane person who knows Quincke's edema will beware of rejecting the slightest possibility of a cure.
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