Continuation: O + and -:
- frequent loading. I did not try to compact, I think the result will be negative. You can increase the volume or be smart with automatic reloading, but this is not for me. The 8 hour time frame is convenient for me.
- eats a lot, so the calorific value of sawdust is limited even with perfect combustion. The main thing is that, with the exception of gasoline for delivery and time, everything is free for me so far.
The ball with sawdust will end, I will switch to wood chips, since we burn brushwood from forest development. Yes, it will be more expensive, but it burns better. Firewood still burns with a bang, but it's expensive (and not interesting). Peat briquettes burn, but the boiler has to be cleaned more often.
- during ignition, in order to reduce the contamination of the heat exchange surfaces and the chimney with deposits, a starting outlet was made: the lower part of the chimney (pipe DN 100) is inserted slidingly into the sleeve at the top of the heat exchanger, during ignition, the pipe from the heat exchanger is taken out up the chimney, after ignition it is shifted back into heat exchanger. This method was used only at - 18C and cold + 10C CO. It is easier to stifle the circulation of CO coolant during kindling.
During the heating of the boiler this year, I noticed that after ignition, black smoke slips from the chimney, suggested that the surfaces were being cleaned by burnout. After the heating, I examined the surfaces - they were clean. I'll make my final decision at the end of the season.
My chimney for TT is not insulated, so I clean it by burning deposits. Now in the summer I’m removing the chimney, dividing it into parts (I have it prefabricated from meter-long stainless steel pipes Du100) and burning it on the ground. Most of the heat transfer surface is self-cleaning during normal operation. If the boiler is constantly heated, the issue disappears. Haven't seen any traction issues.
It is also possible to remove non-combustible debris during the time before reloading the boiler by slightly lowering (without removing from the curtains) the grate. Also, before starting in frost, my heat exchanger is warm, as it is connected after the gas boiler.
- My boiler is almost unregulated. Since the fuel is not homogeneous, a lambda probe, a processor are needed for high-quality adjustment ..., oh, and I don’t like these foreign bells and whistles for a homeowner up to 100 kW of power, in my opinion, they are only a “hole in my pocket”. And so, depending on the circumstances, after reloading, I set the position of the view and the damper in the smoke and left for 8 hours (I agree it would be better longer, but the circumstances (weather, etc.) are sharply changeable, and I have not yet matured to fence the city with TA If it gets warmer at home, family members begin to ventilate (well, they love it), it cools down - their conscience turns on, they can even close the door behind themselves. You can use a thermostatic regulator with a chain on the primary air damper (a standard solution for the TTK) I am against frequent starts and stops in any technique, and for the TTK due to deposits on the heat exchange surfaces and the chimney even more so.
- material: I think a heat proofer is necessary (I don’t have any tests, I don’t believe the papers, the magnet doesn’t take).
- before reloading, in order to clear the space above the grate from fireproof ash, I shake the grate by the holding rod (for this, the hole for the rod in the front wall above the damper is made in the form of a small vertical slot), so at this time soot flies out of the flame tube. Sparks were seen through peeper.
- since the primary air damper is not tight, under certain conditions, during additional loading, the loading box may smoke. Better not stick your face in there.
the path of gases (in principle) is better seen in the figure from patent No. 87208 of the State Register of Patents of Ukraine.
The boiler and heat exchanger are insulated with basalt wool and sheathed with galvanized corners.
In the summer, to finish the boiler, I had to remove the heat exchanger and the cover, I decided to take a picture of the inside, I post it. 1st: vnutryanka in parts, 2nd: removable glass at the bottom, working, 3rd: glass up, you can remove the "secondary"
overtemperature protection is described here in Overtemperature protection for TT boilers
To protect CO with TT, I used the system shown in the figure. When the supply temperature (outlet from the boiler) exceeds the melting temperature of the fusible plug in the sleeve welded to the supply pipe, the cable holding the primary air supply damper is released. Because Since my heat exchanger is separated from the furnace, it is enough to stop intensive combustion to reduce the CO temperature. You can use paraffin (tmelt about 65 C), to increase the response temperature, use Rose Lichtenberg, Newton, POSV-32-15-53 alloy type solder as a light-alloy plug with a temperature of about 95 C.
Since energy prices are constantly rising, homeowners are thinking about switching to alternative fuels. The most accessible of them is biomass (coal, firewood, wood chips, sawdust). Some types of solid fuels also began to grow in price, and boiler equipment for burning them costs a lot of money. One of the most practical solutions under such circumstances is to make a sawdust boiler with your own hands, using simple and affordable materials. One thing is required of you: the ability to perform responsible welded joints or just a good familiar welder.
Homemade sawdust boiler
Advantages of a homemade boiler
Very often, sawdust and wood chips remain in the form of waste in personal subsidiary plots. However, not every heating unit is able to process them. For this reason, and for a number of others, homemade solid fuel boilers have their advantages:
- Low cost. Even if you start buying all the materials for the manufacture of the unit in the distribution network and adequately pay for the services of a qualified welder, then homemade boiler will cost at least 3 times cheaper. In practice, some of the materials can always be found on your own farm, so the price will become even lower.
- Low requirements for fuel quality. The proposed design is able to burn any type of solid fuel, and even garbage. The humidity of firewood or sawdust can be quite high, softwood or birch burns just as successfully as any other. At the same time, tar and resins that stand out do not cause any harm to the unit.
- Sawdust boilers for the home are structurally simple, easy to maintain and clean.
- Ease of use. Depending on the type of biomass, the furnace should be loaded no more than once every 8 hours, this is with the most modest dimensions of the combustion chamber. If you increase it, burning can last a day or more.
- Absolute independence from external energy sources.
Among the shortcomings of the unit, one can distinguish such as an unsightly appearance and the absence of all guarantees of the quality and reliability of welded joints, which will be discussed below.
Operating principle
The boiler furnace does not have doors and an ash pan, but is loaded with fuel from above, from the very bottom to the cut of the chimney pipe. The loaded biomass is pressed down over the entire plane by a round load made of thick sheet steel, and a vertical pipe is welded to it, through which air is supplied to the furnace. This tube passes through the closed top cover and freely sticks out. The boiler is ignited through its upper end. The peculiarity lies in the fact that the top layer of fuel burns, the process goes from top to bottom, warming up the water jacket.
Do-it-yourself sawdust boiler
In principle, as well as in manufacturing, the drawings of the boiler on sawdust will help to understand , made by hand. A damper of any design is installed at the end of the pipe in order to regulate the amount of incoming air and the combustion rate. During the operation of the unit, the load in the furnace is lowered until all the fuel is burned. The products of combustion from the furnace are removed through the chimney.
Tools and materials
Homemade sawdust boiler
If you need a small power boiler, then the furnace body is most often performed on the basis of an old cylinder out of propane. There are two reasons: a fairly thick metal that will last a long time, and its design, which makes it easy to make a firebox cover. In addition, the old cylinder is not difficult to find or buy. To make a more powerful model, you will need sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm or some old large metal vessel.
Another product that you will need to buy is a chimney outlet at an angle of 90⁰, with a diameter of 89 x 4 mm or 107 x 4 mm. The thicker wall of the pipe will not interfere. To seal the cover, you will need sheet metal or a strip 5 mm thick; a thinner steel sheet can be used on the water jacket, but not less than 3 mm. To make a round load, it is better to find metal 8–10 mm thick, an air pipe 40 or 50 mm in diameter. Spurs with finished pipe threads are used as fittings for supplying the coolant.
Before you make a sawdust boiler, you need to prepare the following basic tools and fixtures:
- apparatus for electric welding and electrodes;
- angle grinder with circles for metal;
- measuring tool;
- hammer;
- ticks;
- chisel;
- drilling machine or electric drill.
All work will be more convenient to perform with an assistant.
Scope of work
Homemade sawdust boilers
First, the body of the furnace is made from a gas cylinder. To do this, it is necessary to cut off its upper part along the existing weld, then carefully clean the remains of the seam from the outside. The resulting lid will have to fit snugly against the firebox, so you need to make a border from a strip of thick metal around the circumference of the cylinder, protruding 15–20 mm above the edge. After that, you can attach latches for a lid of an arbitrary design to the body, and 2 convenient metal bar handles can be welded to the top of the lid itself. It should also make a hole along the outer diameter of the air pipe.
A sawdust boiler must have a traditional flue gas outlet at the top, so a hole will need to be cut in the body for it. You can immediately weld the chimney pipe, but this can create inconvenience when installing the water jacket, here everyone chooses the sequence of work for himself.
The next stage is the manufacture of a load that will press down the fuel. The diameter of the part should be slightly smaller than the internal size of the cylinder. Having cut it out of thick sheet metal, ribs are welded to one plane of the product to disperse air, and a hole is made in the center equal to the outer diameter of the air pipe. The latter is inserted into it and hermetically scalded in a circle.
It remains to make a water jacket. The cylinder body is round, so you have to tinker with sheet metal to repeat this shape. But first, you need to cut out stiffeners from a thick sheet and weld stiffeners to the furnace body from the outside, which will prevent the metal of the water jacket from playing due to thermal expansion. After that, the shirt metal should be welded to each stiffener. The last stage is cutting holes for fittings for the coolant and welding threaded spurs for connection to the heating system. Below is a video with recommendations for making the boiler.
If a homemade sawdust boiler is used to heat a private house, it does not hurt to supplement it with some security equipment. To do this, holes are drilled in the skin of the water jacket and fittings for temperature and pressure control devices are welded. It would be correct to additionally install a relief safety valve, which would operate when the pressure rises to 3 bar, and bring the pipe from it outside.
The hot surfaces of the unit and the chimney also pose a danger to people if it is in the house. At the same time, heat is distributed where it is not needed - in the furnace. For these reasons, sawdust boilers must be insulated. Basalt wool can be used as a heat-insulating material, it resists high temperatures well. It is possible to veneer the insulation layer with a thin sheet metal with a polymer coating, at the same time solving the issue of aesthetics of the appearance of the unit.
In the case when only sawdust is used as fuel, it is necessary to make a device for their correct loading into the furnace. The fact is that this type of fuel does not pass air well, and without it the combustion process will be weak. Therefore, a pipe with a diameter of 100–120 mm is made from thin metal in the form of a funnel, only the sides of the cone are very gentle. The device is placed vertically in the center of the furnace, after which sawdust is poured around it, periodically they are tightly tamped. When the chamber is full, due to the shape of the cone, the pipe is easily removed, a load is placed and the furnace cover is closed.
Quality control
Before loading and igniting the unit, it is imperative to check the tightness of the water jacket and check the quality of the welded joints. This will require an air compressor. You can test the seams in two ways, which are very reliable:
- Hydraulic. The entire container is filled with water, a compressor is hermetically connected to the fitting, which must create an overpressure of 2–3 bar. Water does not have the ability to compress, so it will flow through all uncooked places.
- Pneumatic. Pressure is created without water, and all welds are smeared with soapy foam with a brush. Bubbles will show the places through which air penetrates. During the test, the pressure drop can be monitored on the pressure gauge on the compressor.
There is such a type of solid fuel heating source as a sawdust mine boiler. Its design and principle of operation are different and more complex, although it is also quite possible to make it on your own. It works due to the fact that sawdust is burned in the lower part of the unit, pouring there from the bunker, this can be seen in the figure.
The process continues in the fire tubes, which intensively heat the coolant. The principle of afterburning wood gases (pyrolysis) is used. The efficiency of work is increased by installing an air blower - a blower fan. Making a boiler on sawdust and tyrsa with your own hands in practice is not so difficult, but it will definitely give a tangible economic effect both during manufacture and during further operation.
A versatile, economical and easy-to-maintain sawdust boiler with your own hands will completely solve the problems with heating a country house or a small country house. The use of wood chips as fuel reduces the homeowner's heating costs, while such installations differ in functionality and are able to work from one gas station for several days.
The principle of operation of the boiler
To date, there are various designs of heating boilers operating on sawdust. These can be classic potbelly stoves with a thermal circuit connected to them. Modifications in which there is no ash pan are very popular, and fuel is loaded from above using a bunker and a mechanized auger, which makes it possible to automate the operation of heating equipment.
Modifications of boilers with a bunker are not only efficient, but also make it possible to significantly simplify the heating of a private house. The homeowner does not have to reload fuel daily, and provided that high-quality dried sawdust is used, such heaters will be as efficient and economical as possible. Separate modifications, which are equipped with larger furnace tanks and additional bunkers with sawdust, can operate on one load of fuel for 5-6 days, providing heat to a private house with an area of 150-200 square meters.
pyrolysis boiler simply, do it yourself
The features of the operation of heating devices of this type include the following:
- Possibility of adjusting the air supply to the burner.
- Large fuel tank.
- Increased water jacket and heat exchanger area.
- Combustion of fuel, depending on the modification of the boiler, goes from top to bottom or from bottom to top.
Autonomous heating boilers on sawdust, which use the pyrolysis principle of operation, are popular. Such installations have several combustion chambers at once, allowing you to significantly increase the efficiency of the equipment. In the lower furnace, the fuel smolders, under the influence of high temperatures, gas is released from the wood, which is burned in the upper compartments, which ensures the highest possible efficiency of the equipment.
Such long-burning boilers on sawdust have a design similar to solid fuel pyrolysis plants. The only difference is the presence of an additional bunker and a special screw system that automatically supplies fuel to the combustion chamber.
Hardware Benefits
In many ways, the popularity of heating appliances that run on wood chips is due to the many advantages of this technology. DIY a long-burning sawdust boiler has the following advantages:
- Safety of use.
- Ability to control the consumption of raw materials and temperature.
- Environmental friendliness of the equipment.
- Minimum fuel costs.
- Rapid heating of the room.
- High efficiency.
Do-it-yourself sawdust boilers are characterized by versatility and efficiency. With the help of such heating equipment, it is easy to heat a room of any size. Thanks to the simple design of the device, you can make it yourself, and later you can take fuel for free at sawmills or buy ready-made dried pressed sawdust briquettes.
Of the minuses of sawdust boilers, their increased requirements for fuel quality and its moisture indicators are noted. You will also need to periodically clean the chimney from ash and soot. The efficiency of the equipment and its safety of operation will directly depend on the correctness of such service.
Solid fuel pyrolysis boiler for: wood, sawdust, shavings, wood chips, biomass, pellets, briquettes
Operating modes and protective systems used
Factory models of boilers operating on wood chips and sawdust are equipped with various security systems that prevent equipment from igniting and overheating. Some models also have additional sensors that detect high levels of carbon monoxide and are able to detect smoke, thereby warning of a fire hazard.
The equipment can operate in several modes at once:
- Maximum performance.
- Average power.
- Pause mode.
The maximum operating mode of the boiler is activated immediately after the equipment is turned on and if there is the required amount of fuel in the bunker. As soon as the coolant and the air in the room warm up to the desired level, the automation will independently reduce the intensity of combustion, which will ensure the efficient use of fuel.
The medium power mode allows the equipment to work as long as possible from one load of fuel. The intensity of sawdust burning in the furnace is regulated by increasing or decreasing the air flow into the combustion chamber. When this mode is activated, the boiler, equipped with additional automation, can maintain the temperature in the room at a given level.
In the "Pause" mode, the boiler does not heat the room, and the combustion of the fuel stops or its intensity is reduced to a minimum. Subsequently, the homeowner can quickly heat the boiler by switching it to medium or maximum operation.
The presence of operating modes of the boiler allows you to guarantee the convenience of using the heater, increasing the safety of its operation. With an automatic control system, the homeowner can set the desired temperature of the coolant at will, and the built-in sensors will reduce or increase the intensity of heating, ensuring the comfort of living in a private house.
Long-burning mine boiler 25 kW on sawdust EVERYTHING from IGNITION to FADE-OUT. Video 1 / 2
Basic fuel requirements
The efficiency of a solid fuel boiler will largely depend on the quality of the fuel. It is recommended to use well-dried small chips of various types of wood. The sawdust has the following requirements:
Separate modifications of boilers, in which the function of automatic loading of fuel from the bunker is implemented, cannot work with sawdust with a moisture content of more than 40%. Therefore, the quality of drying chips must be given due attention. For the convenience of loading and storing such fuel, pressed sawdust is often used, which are offered at affordable prices, which significantly reduces the cost of heating a private house.
DIY manufacturing
On sale today you can find various modifications of autonomous heating boilers operating on wood chips and sawdust. Despite all their advantages, they have one significant drawback - the high cost of equipment. Therefore, many summer residents and owners of private houses make boilers that are universal in use on their own, since the simple design of such equipment allows you to design it even in the absence of relevant knowledge and work experience.
To make a boiler on wood chips with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:
On the net you can find various drawings for the execution of boilers operating on sawdust and wood chips. The easiest way to make such heaters is on the basis of a pipe or a gas cylinder. You just need to use strong thick-walled steel, which will ensure the durability of a self-made boiler.
This completes the work on the manufacture of the heating boiler. It is necessary to conduct a test run, check the quality of welding, and also make sure that there are no leaks in the water jacket, along the contour of which the coolant circulates. Subsequently, it is possible to upgrade the heating boiler, to which a sawdust hopper and a screw mechanism for automatic loading of chips into the combustion chamber are additionally mounted.
Sawdust boiler
By completing a home-made pyrolysis boiler on sawdust and wood chips, you can not only solve the problems with heating a small private house or country house, but also reduce the cost of living outside the city in the winter season. In specialized stores, you can purchase ready-made industrially manufactured boilers with one or two circuits, which are completely safe in operation and equipped with control automation.
If necessary, it is possible to manufacture universal versions of autonomous heaters, which will differ in their power indicators, the duration of operation from one refueling, as well as a number of other characteristics.
Small wastes resulting from the processing of various types of wood are often used as fuel. To do this, sawdust is pressed in various ways, obtaining such types of solid fuel as briquettes or small granules (pellets). And then they are loaded into the heating boiler. However, it is much easier and cheaper to burn sawdust without any processing, the main thing is to do it right. Here, a home-made sawdust boiler can be very useful, which will be discussed in this material.
Types of homemade boilers for burning sawdust
Everyone knows that dry wood waste quickly burns out, releasing all the thermal energy in a short period of time. If the sawdust is damp, then on the contrary, they smolder and smoke for a long time, not wanting to flare up normally. In this case, only sharing them with firewood saves. To do this with high efficiency, home craftsmen have long come up with and implemented 2 types of heat generators:- units where the fuel burns from top to bottom;
- boiler installations of mine type.
- Use waste efficiently, getting maximum heat from them;
- Ensure complete combustion of sawdust, without residue;
- Extend the interval between furnace loads by making it as long as possible.
Wood waste burns in the firebox of a homemade boiler for a long time - from 8 to 12 hours. This criterion depends on the design features of a particular unit, which will be discussed below. The main advantage of hand-made sawdust heat sources is an affordable price. Even if you entrust all the work to the masters, paying for it at a decent level, the entire project will cost at least half as much as purchasing branded heating equipment.
Boiler on top burning sawdust
The prototype of this type of heat generators is the well-known steel furnace "Bubafonya", and the factory analogue is the products of the well-established Lithuanian brand STROPUVA. Structurally, the boiler is designed in such a way that the fuel could not “hang” in the furnace during operation, for which the combustion chamber of the unit is made round. The outer skin can follow the shape of the firebox, but it can also be rectangular, in which case the volume of the water jacket increases.But the whole trick is that the long-burning boiler on sawdust does not burn them in the traditional way, but vice versa - from top to bottom. At the same time, the remaining fuel in the chamber is constantly pressed down by a massive load that repeats the internal configuration of the chamber and freely moves up and down along it. The load has a hole in the middle, to which a long pipe is welded, which goes out through the top of the unit. Thus, air, passing through the pipe from top to bottom, enters the furnace through the hole and is distributed to the sides thanks to diffusers welded on the bottom of the load.
The key to efficient and complete combustion of wood in the boiler is the presence of good natural draft in the chimney. If it is impossible to provide one, then you will need to install a fan, as is done on some models of Lithuanian factory counterparts. When the chamber is fully loaded, the fuel gradually burns out, while the load drops lower and lower, delivering air directly to the combustion zone.
The duration of work from one bookmark is up to 12 hours, the ash residue is very small. The problem of raw sawdust is solved simply: they should be covered with firewood or laid in the lower layers, laying dry fuel on top. True, damp sawdust will still take away part of the released heat for the evaporation of moisture and during this time the efficiency of the boiler will be reduced. This law can be circumvented in only one way - to dry the tree in advance.
Sawdust boiler
Mine homemade sawdust boilers are more difficult to manufacture and more bulky, but they have one advantage over top combustion units. They are less demanding on the quality of the fuel, or rather, on its moisture content. On the other hand, very wet sawdust cannot be burned, as it cannot enter the chamber through the grate. The unit itself consists of two sections - a fuel bunker and a furnace with a fire-tube heat exchanger. The structure in contact with the flame and flue gases is welded from steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm, the rest of the metal is 2 mm. The unit diagram is shown in the figure:The principle of operation of the heat generator is simple: sawdust is gradually poured down into the furnace, where it burns out when air is supplied by a fan or due to the natural draft of the chimney. It turns out that the duration of burning is limited only by the volume of the bunker, and each homeowner can make it, taking into account the availability of space for installing the boiler. The completeness of combustion is also ensured by a stable air supply, and to control the operation of the unit, it is recommended to equip it with an automation kit, as shown in the video:
A do-it-yourself sawdust heating boiler can compete on equal terms with factory products in terms of work efficiency. In terms of cost and reliability, he will even win, since a good master, who is worried about his reputation, will make a decent supply of everything so that his brainchild functions for a long time and safely.
In the mind of most people, a solid fuel boiler is a metal box with a fuel loading door and a pipe welded to the top. In such a design, everything burned with great speed, throwing heat through the chimney, which was used as a heating element and stretched through the room. The rise in energy prices is forcing people to invent more efficient ways of heating, resulting in a long-burning stove, the efficiency of which is much higher than the traditional one.
A long-burning boiler differs from other solid fuel heating devices in that it does not burn inside, but smolders, which releases enough heat to provide them with one or two rooms. To create a smoldering process, the fuel is rammed so that a minimum of air remains between its particles, since oxygen increases the intensity of the process with a huge heat release.
In this case, the fuel is quickly consumed, and its additional loading will be required. Such boilers do not bring any savings, and excess heat will leave through the chimney and not be used for its intended purpose. The long-burning boiler uses the energy released during smoldering and is equipped with a regulator that doses the air intake. Smoldering in briquettes or sawdust forms a "furnace" gas, which releases a large amount of thermal energy when burned in the ignition chamber.
There are two options for the design of the furnace:
- In which the furnace gas, as a result of the combustion of fuel, rises up through the compressed sawdust, entering the chimney.
- In which the furnace gas with burning sawdust enters the external circuit, where it cools down and is disposed of through the chimney.
- Standard long-burning boilers consist of the following main elements:
- Fuel tank (furnace), in which there is a damper that regulates the flow of primary air.
- Afterburners with holes made through which secondary air enters.
- Chimney.
Operation features
To load fuel, remove the cover and clamping circle along with the pipe. Fuel is poured to the bottom to the very chimney, which is maximally compacted. Small branches are placed on top of it, and paper or a rag moistened with kerosene is placed on them. A pressure circle is inserted from above and closed with a lid. After the fuel begins to burn, the air damper is closed and the stove can be left for several hours until the next fuel load.
It is impossible to throw sawdust into long-burning boilers when the process is running. After its laying and until complete combustion, the furnace does not open. It is possible to increase or decrease the combustion force, while heat generation will also increase or decrease. The combustion process starts from the bottom in the center, and spreads to the sides. As it burns, the compressed fuel descends, providing a combustion process for 8-10 hours.
Basic fuel requirement- this is the possibility of its good pressing inside the combustion chamber, in the center of which there is an air channel. The size of the stove is selected based on the estimated time of combustion of the fuel. So, the combustion that has begun from the middle outward continues until the material burns out completely at a speed of 3 cm / h. By loading sawdust into a container with a diameter of 30 cm, the process will continue for up to 6 hours.
The amount of heat generated during combustion depends on the diameter and depth of the furnace. In a tall and narrow design, heating will occur faster, and a product with a large diameter will make the process long and hot.
Advantages of the oven
- Long work on one bookmark of fuel (10-20 hours depending on the model).
- Autonomy of work (constant human control is not required).
- Relatively small size and weight.
- The possibility of using different fuels (the boiler runs on sawdust, coal, firewood, wood chips, pellets), which makes the cost of heating noticeably lower than alternative options.
- Does not require a foundation.
- Does not need regular kindling, long downtime does not affect the durability and performance of the device, which is especially convenient for a country house or cottage.
- Maximum complete combustion of fuel and low ash residue.
- The stove on sawdust practically does not smoke.
- It is quite easy to make with your own hands from a simple steel barrel or other improvised materials.
- Low cost.
How to assemble with your own hands?
The basis for the manufacture of a sawdust stove is a 200 liter whole steel barrel without rust. A propane tank, a piece of steel pipe, or a large fire extinguisher will do. In this part, the main indicator is the thickness of the walls, the duration of the operation of the entire product depends on it.
From other materials you will need:
- Material for the legs (with a round base), which can be used as pipe trimmings, pieces of reinforcement, channel, etc.
- Two steel circles with a barrel diameter and a wall thickness of 5 mm.
- Ready-made or self-made door.
- Pipe, 15 cm longer than the barrel, and 100 mm. in diameter.
- Pipe, 5 m long and 100 mm in diameter. for the chimney.
You will need the following tools:
- Gas cutter or grinder.
- Welding machine.
- Hammer
- Measuring tools (tape measure, level).
- Before making a product with your own hands, the drawing is carefully studied, after which they proceed to assembly, consisting of the following steps:
- Fuel tank preparation. The upper part of the barrel is cut off after preliminary precise marking so as not to spoil the workpiece. Also, according to the markup, the bottom is also cut off, which is not thrown away, but will be used as a lid.
- Making the bottom of the furnace from a steel sheet, which is cut to the diameter of the firebox. A hole is made in its center along the diameter of the supply pipe.
- Production of a pipe supplying oxygen to the combustion zone. To do this, you need a workpiece that is longer in comparison with the fuel tank, and equal in diameter to the hole in the firebox. Longitudinal lines are cut in it with a grinder or a perforation is made with a drill in an amount of more than 50 pieces.
- The perforated pipe is inserted into the middle of the bottom and welded, after which a cover is cut out with a hole in the center, fitted to the diameter of the pipe (a cover is placed on it). An additional hole is also made near the edge to control draft and air access, on which a movable damper is placed. The cover for convenience is equipped with arches for convenience of service.
- Installation of a chimney from a branch pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a pipe connected to it with a clamp. The branch pipe is carefully connected by welding to the side outlet in the upper part of the firebox and a pipe is put on it.
- The boiler is mounted on supports, which are made of metal profiles welded to the furnace body, as shown in the drawings.
Important technical features
During assembly and operation, long-burning boilers are distinguished by certain technical nuances known to professionals, and which users of such devices must know:
- Chimney pipes are assembled in the direction opposite to the movement of combustion products.
- For the chimney, such a design is selected, which, if necessary, can be disassembled and scheduled cleaning can be carried out.
- Boilers must not be located near objects and materials that cannot withstand high temperatures.
- Sawdust boilers must be tested in all operating modes before use. At the same time, the optimal temperature regime of the device and the required amount of fuel for loading are found out.
The process of making a furnace with your own hands, with the availability of materials and experience in similar work, is simple. This will require an accurate drawing, the necessary materials, tools, and just one day of time.
The main condition for the subsequent correct operation of the unit- this is the accuracy of manufacturing, the quality of materials and connecting seams. When operating the device, it must be remembered that the boiler is a subject of increased fire hazard, and it is not worth conducting various experiments with it.
The following videos describe in detail the manufacture of various types of long-burning furnaces and show the principle of their operation:
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